r^BCa^x^fifHftli 



NARRATIVE 



A PEDESTRIAN JOURNEY 



RUSSIA AND SIBERIAN TARTARY, 



FKOM THE 



FRONTIERS OF CHINA 



FROZEN SEA AND KAMTCHATKA: 



PERFORMED DURING THE TEARS 



1820, 1821, 1822, and 1823. 



CAPT. JOHN DUNDAS COCHRANE, R.N. 



PHILADELPHIA .- 




H. C. CAREY, & I. LEA, AND A. SMALL 

AND 

COLLINS & HANNAY, NEW-YORK. 
1824. 



lH 



: 



f 






lJ 



TO 
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 

VISCOUNT MELVILLE, K.T. 

FIRST LORD OF THE ADMIRALTY, 

ETC. 



MY LORD, 

When I determined upon committing to the press 
the following Narrative of my journey through Siberia 
and Tartary, I felt a desire that I might be permitted 
to dedicate the same to your Lordship. 

For ..ie kind and handsome manner in which your 
Lordship was pleased to comply with my request, per- 
mit me to hope that your Lordship may derive a few 
hours of amusement from the perusal of the work; and 
should this wish fortunately be accomplished, I shall not 
consider my time to have been uselessly employed. I 
have the honor to be, with all respect, 

MY LORD, 

YOUR OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT, 

JOHN DUNDAS COCHRANE. 



PREFACE. 



It has not been the kind partiality of my friends, the 
common apology for an uninteresting or ill written book, 
which has induced me to launch upon the world the 
following narrative of my journey to the utmost north- 
ern and eastern limits of the Russian empire; nor has 
it arisen from a vain idea of my being qualified for 
a task of the kind- No person (except the foreign noble- 
man under whose especial countenance the principal 
part of the undertaking was accomplished) has recom- 
mended such a proceeding. The publication, therefore, 
whether of merit or demerit, is entirely prompted by 
the novelty of the journey, and of the mode of accom- 
plishing it; for, even in these days of wonderful achieve- 
ments, it has excited some surprise that a Captain of 
the British Navy should undertake a journey of many 
thousands of miles, alone, on foot, and over a country 
considered as next to impassable. That the journey 
has only in part been performed on foot, is to be attri- 
buted to the liberality of the Russian government, as 
well as to the hospitality of its people. Had the Empe- 
ror Alexander, however, refused the assistance I solicit- 
ed, required, and obtained, I am free to declare that it is 
next to impossible to traverse his Empire on foot. I 



VI PREFACE. 

fairly made the experiment. For a long time I adopt- 
ed that economical mode of travelling, until the press- 
ing solicitations of every one convinced me it would be 
folly to decline any longer the acceptance of such offers 
as they were pleased, from real benevolence, to make 
me. 

I frequently walked, and as frequently rode, and was 
thus enabled to go over a vast extent of country in a 
short time; and such is the kind disposition of the Rus- 
sian character towards a stranger, as evinced in my case, 
that I feel convinced that, by studying their manners 
and customs, partaking of their amusements, shewing 
respect to their religion, and otherwise conforming to 
their rude notions, the Empire of Russia may be tra- 
versed by a foreigner in every direction, with much con- 
venience, plenty of food, good lodgings, and even suita- 
ble raiment, without molestation, and this for so incon- 
siderable a sum, that to name it were to challenge 
disbelief. I shall, therefore, only state that the expenses 
of my journey from Moscow to Irkutsk (by the route I 
went six thousand miles,) certainly fell short of a guinea. 

Such being the case, such being the novelty of the 
journey, such being our ignorance of Siberia, and every 
thing connected with the public institutions of that dis- 
tant part of the world, I consider it my duty, as well as 
my interest, to submit to the candour of an indulgent 
public the following pages. Effectually to disarm the 
critic, I need only say that I entered into the cockpit of 
a man of war at the very early age of ten: if that be not 
sufficient, let the fact of a journey of more than thirty 
thousand miles, performed under peculiar circumstan- 
ces, be taken as a set-off against a want of powers bet- 
ter fitting an author than a traveller. 



PREFACE, Vlt 

I cannot, however, but entertain a hope that the nar- 
rative will be found not void of interest. It contains no 
alterations from the original notes, it has simply been 
lopped of those branches which could not interest the 
English reader; probably, it has not even yet been suf- 
ficiently pruned, for I fear I have still left marks of hav- 
ing pried into proceedings which may appear not to 
have come within my province. When my readers, 
however, consider the peculiar situation in which I was 
placed for more than three years, 1 hope they will give 
me credit for the impartiality of my opinions, and the 
truth of my statements. Respecting the character of 
the Russians, I do not feel myself competent to give 
what may be termed a proper description. I might be 
charged with a want of impartiality, and therefore prefer 
that my readers should form their own estimate, after a 
due consideration of the facts stated in my Narrative. 
The variety of conflicting testimonies has rendered the 
task still more difficult: some who have written upon 
the subject have grossly exaggerated, while others have 
advanced assertions totally unfounded. Thus much, 
however, I will take upon myself to say, that no people 
have made more rapid strides towards civilization, mo- 
ral and intellectual improvements, than all classes of the 
Russians, and further I say, that their catalogue of fail- 
ings, for they do not merit the appellation of crimes, by- 
no means exceeds those of other countries. 

There is another ground on which I would fain per- 
suade myself that these pages may be productive of 
some good; may they not prove the means of stirring up 
the enterprising spirit of those who have better means 
and greater talents than I pretend to? Should a travel- 
ler who has the pecuniary means, the requisite talents. 



Vlll PREFACE. 

and the spirit and perseverance indispensable, enter 
upon the vast fields of Tartary, he will tiud ample scope 
for the exercise of his genius, whether he be a philoso- 
pher, a botanist, a naturalist, or an historian. For my- 
self, I profess only to have acted in the capacity of a 
rough pioneer, and having cleared the way, leave the 
road open for the scientific, to pursue his journey when 
it best suits him. 

To the impatient mind these pages may also afford a 
salutary lesson. Should such a character peruse this 
narrative, and trace me through a long, laborious, and 
highly perilous journey, contrasting the frequent misera- 
ble situations in which I have been placed, with his com- 
paratively happy one, he will, I trust, learn " to be con- 
tent:" he will also learn that there are few difficulties 
which patience and spirit may not overcome, and that 
man may fearlessly go where he will, so long as his con- 
duct answers to his movements. 

I may be allowed to add, that after such a journey, I 
might be supposed cured of the spirit of travelling, at 
least in so eccentric a way; yet the supposition is far from 
the fact, for as I am conscious that J was never so happy 
as in the wilds of Tartary, so have I never been so anxi- 
ous to enter on a similar field as at this moment. 

THE AUTHOR, 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Pag* 
Motives for undertaking the Journey — Dieppe — Rouen — Paris — La 
Ferte — Chalons — St. Dizier — Nancy — Metz— Sarrebruck — Land- 
shut — Kaisers Lautern-— Frankfort- — Schlucten— Fuld- — Erfurth 
— Leipsic — Dueben — Potsdam — Berlin ...... , . 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Angermunde — Stettin — Corben — Cosben — Romini — Zanow- — Schlaws 
— Lauenburg — Neustadt — Dantzic—Konigsbei*g---Curisch HafF— 
Memel — Prolangen — Mittau--.- Riga- — Dorpat — Narva- — Yamburg— 

Kipene — St. Petersburg . 20 

/ 
CHAPTER III. 

St. Petersburg — Tzarsko Selo — Tosna — Novgorod — Zaitz^va — Yedro- 
va — Vishney-Volotshchok — Torjock — Tver — Davi^ova — Moscow 
—Vladimir— Dratchevo— Pogost— Paulovo— Nishiyy Novgorod . 40 

/ 
CHAPTER IV. 

The "Volga— MakariefF— Kusmodemiansk— TcV-backsar— Vutchi— Ka- 
zan— Perm — Koungoor— Souksoum, D/*idofF's Zavod— Achita- 
kaya Krepost— Krasnooufinsk Belimb/ efs ky Zazod— Ekatherine- 
bourg— Berezofsky— Kanushloff— Tv^ en — Tobolsk 64 



CHAP/ER V. 

Brief History of Western Sibe/» and °f lis Conqueror Yermak— 
Imalak — Ingeary— Kamii/ 1 ~ Kamisart — Ishim— Tusnabolova— 

B * 



X CONTENTS. 

Page 
Tukalinsk — Omsk- — The Kirguise — Calmucks — Jeliezinskaya- — 
Yamishefsk- — Poyanoyarsk — Ubinsk — Uvarova- — Alexandrofsk — 
Bouktourma — Krasnojarsk— Maloi Narymsk — Chinese Frontier — 
The Irtish — Ustkamenegorsk — Ismayelova — Neighbourhood of the 
Kolyvan — Kalmanka — Barnaoule — Tomsk — Kioff — Ki-asnochinsky 
— Bagota- — Atchinsk — Krasnojarsk — Kansko — Ingashe — Nishney 
Udinsk— Irkutsk 89 

CHAPTER VI. 

Irkutsk — Vercholensk— Kirenga — Vittim— Jerbat— The Tongousians— 
Olekminsk — Bistack — Yakutsk — The Lena — Aldan — The Tookos- 
lar— Baralass— The Sartar— The Bouroulak— Tabalak— The Tos- 
tak and Dogdoa — Kabbregah, &c. rivers — The Rasoka— The 
Beekhall and Bludenayah— The Chouboukalah, Galanimah, and 
Indigirka — Zashiversk — Brusnicka— -Sordak- — The Alazea — Mid- 
dle Kolyma- — Malone— Nishney Kolymsk 132 

CHAPTER VII. 

Nishney Koljmsk — Ostrovnaya Fortress — Description of the Fair held 
there, wit* the Tchuktchi tribe— Observations on that people, and 
on Baron Wangel's Expedition 175 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Departure from the Ke yma „_Lapteff— Sredne Kolymsk— Kosatchey 
Ostrog— Verchne Koir ms ] c _„ T h e Zyzanka Hokusolbetee and Bo- 
cheera— Boulouktak— *ourouack— Terachtack, &c— Kourdak — 
Andigezan— -Intack — Oi^kon— -Nera — Indigirka, Rivers — The 
Tongousi Tribe— The Ko<jousou and Kounounaksala Rivers— 
The Okota—Okotsk 210 



CHAPI^.r ix. 

Reasons for determining to return to Eu p e __Description of Okotsk 
—Observations on the Navigation of tL Amoor— Kurile Islands— 



CONTENTS. XI 

Page 
St. Peter and St. Paul's — Captains Vasilieff 's and Kotzebue's Ex- 
pedition 247 

CHAPTER X. 

Departure from St. Peter and St. Paul's— Avatcha— Koraki— Nachie- 
kin- — Apachinsk- — Bolcheretzk- — Utka Ostrog— -Kolpakofskoi— - 
Ichinsk— -Kavaranskoi— -Napanas— - Tygil — Sedanka- — Yelofka- — 
Kharchina — Kamenoy Ostrog— Kamakee — Nishney Kamtchatsk— 
Cliutchi — Krestrova Ostrog— Kozerofsky — Massurah — -Kirgannick 
- — Milkovah — Vercbne Kamtchatka- — Schegatchick — Sherom — 
Pushcheen— Ganal— Malka— Return to St. Peter and St. Paul's . 265 

CHAPTER XL 

General Observations on the Peninsula of Kamtchatka 287 

CHAPTER XII. 

Departure from Kamtchatka — Re-arrival at Okotsk — Further Observa- 
tions on that place — Bulgeine — The Udoma — Ouchakan — Anche-? 
kon — Achan and Konkui Rivers — Chornoi Lass — Chakdalka — Che- 
kinvio — The Aldan — Amgie — Lena, Rivers — Re-arrival at Yakutsk 
— General Observations on the Yakuti, and of their Metropolis . . 313 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Departure from Yakutsk — Tastakinskoi — Olekma — Berezova— Vittim 
— Kirenga — Kachouga — Bratsky Steppe— Verkholensk — Re-arri- 
val at Irkutsk — The Angara River— The Baikal Lake — Verchney 
Udinsk — Selenginsk, and the Missionary station at that place . . . 332 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Verchney Udinsk— Tchitta— Baidalofsky—Bolshoy Zavod— Nertchinsk 
— Tsurukhjjiitouyefsk — Kondou— Tchindat— Khirring— Ashenghin- 
sky— Mogoitu— The Ingoda— Tchitta— The Hot Baths— The Et- 
amza— Return to Verchney Udinsk— The Selenga— Kiakhta ... 350 



XII CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XV. 

Kiakhta — Cliutchi — Selenginsk — Irkutsk — The Angara — Nishney 
Udinsk — Ulan — Krasnoyarsk — Yeneseisk — The Black River — At- 
chinsk — Bogotova — Kemchiega — Perecoole — Tomsk — Tasheeka 
— Chien — Kainsk — Barabinsky Steppe — Vosnesensk — Yalanka — 
Zavolgalka — Omsk - 368 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Omsk — Tou-Kalan — Ishim — Tobolsk — Kamishloff — Mr. Major's estab- 
lishment — Ekatherinebourg — Billimbay-Zavod — Bissertskaya 
Krepost — Kungour — Perme — Okbansk — Krimess-selti — Malmish 
— Kazan — Tchebokssari — Vassil — Nishney Novgorod — Bogorod- 
skoye — Pavlovo— Vladimir — Moscow — Klinn — Tver — Torjock — 
Vishney-Volotchock — Novgorod — St. Petersburg 388 

Conclusion 413 



NARRATIVE, 

ETC. 



CHAPTER I. 



Motives for undertaking the Journey — Dieppe — Rouen — Paris — La Ferte— - 
Chalons — St. Dizier — Nancy — Metz — Sarrebruck — Landshut — Kaisers 
Lautern — Frankfort — Schlucten — Fuld — Erfurth — Leipsic — Dueben— ~ 
Potsdam — B erKn . 

IN the month of January, 1820, I addressed a letter to the Se- 
cretary of the Lords Commissioners of the Admirality, offering to 
undertake a journey into the interior of Africa, which should have 
for its object the ascertaining of the course and determination of 
the river Niger. Besides the bent of my own inclination, I had 
an inducement to this step in the conviction established by expe- 
rience, of my capability to encounter the ordinary difficulties of a 
pedestrian traveller : having, on the conclusion of the general 
peace, traversed on foot the beautiful countries of France, Spain 
and Portugal, an excursion in which I certainly underwent a full 
proportion of fatigue and privations. 

The plan I purposed to follow was nearly that adopted by Mungo 
Park in his first journey ; intending to proceed alone, and re- 
quiring only to be furnished with the countenance of some consti- 
tuent part of the government. With this protection, and such 
recommendations as it might procure me, I would have accompa- 
A 



% MOTIVES FOR 

nied the caravans in some servile capacity, nor hesitated even to 
sell myself as a slave, if that miserable alternative were necessary 
to accomplish the object I had in view. 

In going alone, I relied upon my own individual exertions and 
knowledge of man, unfettered by the frailties and misconduct of 
others. J was then, as now, convinced, that many people travel- 
ling together for the purpose of exploring a barbarous country, 
have the less chance of succeeding, more especially when they go 
armed and take with them presents of value. The appearance 
of numbers must naturally excite the natives to resistance from 
motives of jealousy or fear ; and the danger would be greatly in- 
creased by the hope of plunder. The death of the whole party, 
and consequently the failure of the expedition, will be the proba- 
ble result of such a plan. The difficulty of finding men, other- 
wise suitable, whose constitutions admit an equal degree of suf- 
fering and fatigue, is also great : and that of collecting a num- 
ber of people gifted with the due proportion of those virtues with- 
out which no expedition of discovery could succeed, is certainly a 
greater. 

My answer from the admiralty was unfavourable, expressing an 
unwillingness to countenance the undertaking; whether from ten- 
der regard to the safety of my person, or because they considered 
such an expedition foreign to their department, or from what 
other reason, I shall leave the reader to conjecture. I was not 
however the less convinced of the practicability of my plan : but 
finding that a young commander like myself was not likely to be 
employed afloat, I determined to undertake a journey, varying only 
the object and the scene to that of the unfortunate Ledyard, viz. 
to travel round the globe, as nearly as can be done by land, cross- 
ing from Northern Asia to America, at Behring's Sfreights ; I also 
determined to perform the journey on foot, for the best of all pos- 
sible reasons, that my finances allowed of no other. I accordingly 



UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY. o 

procured two year's leave of absence, and prepared to traverse the 
continents of Europe, Asia, and America. 

It is only candid to premise, that the account I am about to give 
of my travels can bat little gratify the scientific reader. I con- 
fess my ignorance of natural history, nor had I been ever so skil- 
ful could I, travelling on foot, have brought away with me any spe- 
cimens of animals, plants or minerals. I had no means of carry- 
ing with me such instruments as are necessary for making geo- 
graphical observations of places, of the state of the air, or such 
other matters as are generally expected to be noted by travellers : 
the few instruments I did possess were taken from me, as will 
hereafter appear. 

My first and leading object was to trace the shores of the Polar 
Sea along America, by land, as Captain Parry is now attempting 
to do by sea ; and at the same time to note my observations on 
men and manners in the various situations and conditions of life - t 
for which such a journey could not fail of presenting many oppor- 
tunities. Having therefore procured such documents as were ne- 
cessary, and filled my knapsack with such articles as I considered 
requisite to enable me to wander through the wilds, deserts, and 
forests of three quarters of the globe, I quitted London and landed 
at Dieppe from the packet-boat. 

My regret on quitting the shores of Albion was not likely to be 
counterbalanced by any pleasurable reflections on reaching those of 
France ; but having been forty hours on board the packet, with 
little or nothing to eat, I cheerfully submitted to the ordeal of the 
French searchers, at the modest price of a franc ; and, with my 
knapsack on my back, walked on to one of those most accommo- 
dating of all places of entertainment, announced by the simple 
words of "logement a pied ou a cheval." I there procured a bed 
and supper for the same reasonable price that I paid for the hon- 
our done me in the official examination of my precious wallet. 



4 ROUEN. 

Being reluctant to incur the expense of five francs, to obtain 
my passport on Sunday, I was content to devote the day to cele- 
brate the eve of my birth-day, of the Carnival, and of St. Valen- 
tine; having visited what may be deemed most worthy in the 
pretty, clean, and well paved town of Dieppe,— the retreat for the 
vicious, and refuge for the unfortunate. 

Monday, 14th February, I commenced my route towards Paris, 
over a well cultivated, but thinly peopled country, on which are a 
few pleasant country seats, and neat villages, with a road far su- 
perior to that from the capital to Calais, I contemplated, as I jog- 
ged along, some of the differences between France and Spain, 
comparing the facilities of traversing the former, to the difficulties 
and dangers attending the latter; and contrasting the servile, fri- 
volous, and seductive Frenchman, with the noble, proud, and hos- 
pitable Don. Nor is the scenery of the two countries less op- 
posed: the bold, romantic, fertile, and mountainous features of 
Spain, to the long, low, sloping declivities, and the tame, though 
cultivated eminences of France. 

About a mile, however, from Rouen, the prospect became more 
interesting. To the right and in front, wound the silvery Seine, its 
bosom studded vviih vessels to a degree extraordinary at this season 
of the year. In the distance, in front and to the left, stood the 
city of Rouen, with the spire of its truly venerable cathedral, and 
other steeples and public buildings, rising over various parts of the 
city: while, farther to the left, a range of hills, in a high state of 
cultivation, sloped down to a number of handsome chateaux and 
pretty cottages; while the lawns, covered with cottons and linens 
spread out to bleach, gave an air of cheerful and honourable in- 
dustry to this portion of the Department of Lower Seine. 

I put up at a table d'hote, and, for three francs a-day, procured 
the opportunity of viewing the wonders of the ancient, but dirty, 
narrow, and crooked streeted city of Rouen. The cathedral is^of 



ROUEN. 3 

course, the first object of attraction; but, however beautiful its 
Gothic design, or however excellent its modern improvements, the 
effect of both is lost from the peculiar unfriendliness of its situation; 
surrounded on three sides, by dirty lanes, so close that the backs 
of some of the houses are formed by the walls of the cathedral. 
The interior corresponds with the exterior in point of decoration; 
though of its furniture little else is to be seen beside enormous piles 
of old chairs. I left this once so beautiful, but now disfigured 
edifice, to wander through the isles of St. Owen, a fine and per- 
fect Gothic specimen, whose grandly elevated roof, and highly 
finished painted windows, seem capable of inspiring a religious 
feeling far beyond those of the cathedral. The Archiepiscopal 
palace, the barracks on the banks of the Seine, a large Gothic 
building, converted to public offices, and the Hotel de Ville, are 
also deserving attention. Rouen has a tolerable library, and a 
cabinet of paintings, including numerous pieces of the old school; 
their description is too much out of my sphere, to be entered upon: 
and were it otherwise, the indelicacy of some of them might well 
forbid their reception by an English public. 

Ascending Mount St. Catherine, I now overlooked the river 
and great part of the surrounding country, which, even at this sea- 
son of the year, presented an interesting scene, where the boule- 
vards, by far the cleanest part, stretch aiong three sides of the city 
to a great distance, with the cathedral and other churches: the 
beautiful windings of the river, now bounded by high and chalky 
cliffs, and then by low meadow lands, with its numerous inhabited 
and well cultivated islands, reminding me of the " Chinampas, or 
floating gardens of Mexico." 

Mount St. Catherine had some time back a strong fortress; 
though now scarcely a vestige of a wall remains. Possibly it was 
destroyed on purpose, as palpably unnecessary to the protection of 
the sacred territory. The communication across the river is formed 



b PARIS. 

by a heavy bridge of boats fastened together in the most unskilful 
manner, the beams of wood admitting of little or no play, so ne» 
cessary during the breaking up of the ice, or the freshes and 
swellings of the river. The great nation might obtain some use- 
ful information on floating bridges from Oporto or Seville. 

I returned to the city, in time to witness what little public 
feeling was exhibited on the information just received of the Duke 
de Bern's assassination, and having gallantly paid my devoirs to 
the statue of the Maid of Orleans, departed, convinced that 
Rouen, like other great cities, presents too much to be seen, and 
too little to interest. 

The first pari of the journey from Rouen to Paris, is on the banks 
of the Seine, then under Mount St. " Catherine, and afterwards 
over a considerably elevated ground. Cultivation is here pursued 
on an extensive scale, ! ut the scene is uninteresting from its 
sameness, and the total absence of inclosures, recalling to the 
English traveller the superior beauties of his own country. Passing 
a few dirty villages, you reach Bordeaux de Vigne a Magni, a 
considerable town, distant twenty-eight miles. From hence to 
Paris is a well paved road, through the ancient town of Entreuil: 
the country here becomes more interesting and better peopled, 
though it has little else to denote its proximity to the second capital 
of Europe. I arrived late, and put up at the Hotel de Conte. 

I remained at Paris several days waiting for my passports, for 
which no less than seven signatures and as many francs were re- 
quired. I was happy enough to find a worthy friend in the person 
of the late Colonel Mercer, who, with his amiable daughters, did 
every thingpossible to lessen the expenseand ennui of the delay. All 
public amusements were however prohibited for a certain period, 
in consequence of the Duke de Berri's death, much, I suspect, to 
the mortification of the Parisians, who, whatever be their love to 



CHALONS. 7 

the grand monarque, appear but little attached to his august 
family. 

Paris has ever appeared to me dull, probably from my want of 
means to enter its vortex of dissipation; but as I was not wholly 
insensible to the wish, J resolved immediately to quit it, leaving 
to others the task of describing over again what has so often been 
described. I set out therefore on the 20th, with the intention of 
crossing the Rhine at Frankfort, taking Nancy on the road. 
Twenty-two miles on ray route, lay the episcopal city of Meaux, 
whose cathedral is certainly deserving of notice, in as much as its 
exterior is completely finished, a rare case with French cathedrals. 
The country about it is low, and as uninteresting as the city itself. 
Passed the night at La Ferte sous Jouarre, a considerable town on 
the Marne, celebrated for its trade in mill-stones, which are thence 
exported in great numbers. I was too fatigued to enjoy more Of 
the comforts of a decent auberge, than that of a bed, such as it 
was, consisting only of a blanket, with my knapsack for a pillow. 
Reached Port-a-Binson late the next evening, having gone through 
several considerable towns, among which is Chateau Thierry, 
beautifully situated on both banks of the Marne, connected by two 
bridges, which are again connected by an island in the centre of 
the river. The country here assumes a more romantic appear- 
ance, and the people seem happier and more good natured, with 
less of that forward and impertinent curiosity so characteristic of 
French manners. At a distance of twenty-four miles, I reached 
Chalons, in Champaigne. It was not probable that I should pass 
this province without tapping a bottle of so celebrated a wine, 
which the town of Epernay furnished me for three francs and a 
half. 

Epernay with its scenery is truly romantic, as observed from an 
elevated situation above Chateau Thierry. It reminded me much 



S ST. DIZIERS. 

of the scenery In the north of Portugal, near the river and bridge 
of Coa. 

Leaving Chalons, I directed my steps towards St. Dizier, over 
a hilly country The road was bad, but rendered lighter by the 
company of some pedestrian travellers. Our route, however, was 
through a flourishing vineyard and a highly picturesque scenery, 
abounding with wood and water ; but dirty and populous villages 
every where offended the eye, presenting a strange and paradoxical 
appearance, as if health and dirt were as congenial in France, as 
health and cleanlirrebs are in England. 

I reached St. Dizier late in the evening, exceedingly fatigued; 
put up at a decent public house, where were plenty of other tra- 
vellers enjoying the comforts of a Saturday night, when an extra 
franc is spent. This latter circumstance I mention, that gentle- 
men travellers (I know not to what classification of the tribe Lau- 
rence Sterne would have referred me) may observe that we of 
humbler habits and pretensions have our red as well as black let- 
ter days. St. Dizier is an ancient town, near the navigable part 
of the Marne, built in the year 951, and is the chief town in the 
department of the Meuse, lying in a fertile country. Grapes are 
here abundant, and many beautiful views may be glimpsed through 
thick groves and vineyards, common to this part of the country. 
Breakfasted at Bar-sur-Ornain, generally called Bar-le-Duc. The 
next place in point of rank, in the same department, is Ligny, 
with a collegiate church and a palace, belonging to the Counts of 
the same name. Passed through Void and St. Aubin, the former, 
apparently, a pleasant lively place, containing three thousand in- 
habitants; thence, through Toul, an ancient bishopric of Lorraine. 
The country was hilly and fertile, producing abundance of good 
and tolerably cheap wine. 

The following day I spent at Nancy, enjoying the beauties of 
this Bath of France, and capital of Lorraine. It is still a fine 



NANCY. 9 

city, although dispossessed of its former privileges and honours. 
The buildings in general are noble; the Hotel de Ville superb; 
the Council House, in the new square, very fine ; and the regula- 
rity and cleanliness of the streets deserving of praise. The prome- 
nades are kept in good order, and every thing denotes that Nancy 
is a well conducted and highly civilized city. I took the benefit 
of a warm bath in excellent style for one franc, and next morning 
departed, taking the road to Metz, and enjoyed one of those de- 
lightful walks which seldom fall to the lot even of a traveller, 
much less to those slaves of ease who get up but to go to rest, and 
live but to die. The road stretched along the beautiful banks of 
the Meuse, winding through numerous valleys, betwixt a succes- 
sion of hills, whose summits assumed the form which sailors 
would term "table lands." I crossed the river by a well built 
modern bridge, just at the point where the Meuse falls into the 
Moselle. The fertility and industry of this part of France are 
alike apparent : each side of the river was a continuity of vineyard 
or orchard, the river, winding round the forest-topt hills, branch- 
ing out at intervals into several streams, and then uniting in a sort 
of rapid. The numerous towns and villages, every where inter- 
spersed, exhibited their influence on the scene, pouring out to 
their healthful occupations a thick population of robust and cheer- 
ful labourers. 

On the last day's march I fell in with one of Napoleon's soldiers, 
who had had the misfortune of being for two years and a half im- 
mured in a Russian prison, if the wilds of Siberian Tartary pos- 
sess any building which can merit such an appellation. He pro- 
tested "by his faith and respect for Napoleon;" and if I may 
judge from what I heard, I must suppose the expression spoke the 
sentiments of a large portion of the Bourbon subjects. His vera- 
city was indeed questionable, declaring that he had been seven 
days without food, at Witepsk; and, that out of five hundred and 
B 



10 METZ. 

thirty Frenchmen confined in the same prison with himself, but 
twenty-three remained alive to tell the dreadful tale. It took 
them, he said ? eight months travelling to reach their destination afc 
Tobolsk. 

He was, however, a lively and even a serviceable companion, for 
upon complaining of my feet becoming blistered, he communica- 
ted to me as a secret a mode of cure which I have never found to 
fail. It is simply to rub the feet at going to bed, with spirits 
mixed with tallow dropped from a lighted candle into the palm of 
the hand. Oh the following morning, no blisters will exist; the 
spirit seems to possess the healing power, the tallow serving only 
to keep the skin soft and pliant. The soles of the feet, the ancles 
and insteps should be rubbed well; and even where no blisters 
exist, the application may be usefully made as a preventive. Salt 
and water is a good substitute ; and while on this head, I would 
recommend foot -travellers never to wear right and left shoes t it is 
bad economy, and indeed serves to cramp the feet; and such I 
felt to be the case as I arrived at Port-a-Marsan, a pretty town,, 
with a good inn and better market. Thence, over a variously 
cultivated country, I reached the outworks of Metz, situate at the 
confluence of the Moselle and Seille, two rivers which are nearly 
carried round the city by the aid of canals, &c. 

Metz is a place of great importance and strength, and has fre- 
quently endured the horrors of a siege. It is the see of a bishop, 
whose cathedral, like that of Rouen, is secluded among the habi- 
tations of barbers, taylors, and cobblers ; like Rouen too, it is but 
a dirty place. The dwellings of the Israelites are restricted to a 
particular part of the city : I saw a few of them, with their long 
beards and black cloaks, — a distinctive dress which they are com- 
pelled to appear in. 

Next morning, with the sound of the bugle, and at the opening 
of the gates, I resumed my march, having previously sent my 



SARREBRUCK. 11 

knapsack by the diligence to Frankfort. The day proved fine, 
which enabled me to reach Sarrebruck, five miles Within the bar- 
rier of Germany. The scenery was wild and interesting. Many 
cultivated spots smiled through the immense dark forests; and 
-even on the frontier line, the romantic view, combined with the 
thought of entering a strange country, unknowing and unknown ? 
and ignorant of its language, had nearly overpowered me, until 
the sight of a neat little public-house, brought me back again to 
John Bull and his happy home. And although that part of the world 
may not bear a comparison with England, still the picture had 
many points of resemblance. The country was highly cultivated, 
and inhabited in the manner of straggling farms; and the country 
inn with its tap, and red-faced landlord, cheering fire, plenty of 
good beer, tobacco, a smoky room, with boisterous guests, all in 
high dispute on politics, and keeping up Saturday night, were no 
bad emblems of England, and, as such, truly acceptable to a cold 
dispirited traveller. 

After a walk of forty miles I supped with some itinerant Jews, 
upon a genuine German repast, viz. milk soup, fricaseed veal^ 
pancakes, roast joint, with a sausage, called in London, brawn. 
We had also our dessert, consisting of apples, pears, nuts, and 
good wine, and with such fare and such company, I was bound to 
feel happy. Previous to retiring, I could not help remarking the 
difference in the education of a German and a Frenchman. The 
frontiers are the very best places to observe it; address a German, 
however poor or vulgar his condition, upon any subject, and his 
answer will prove that he has been at least partially educated. 
Accost a Frenchman in like manner, and you will have for an 
answer, " Monsieur, cela je ne puis pas vous dire," with a shrug 
of the shoulders, which none but a Frenchman can render ex- 
pressive or ridiculous. Nor does the comparison stop here. The 
manners of the people, their diet, the economy and cleanliness of 



12 KAISERS LAUTERN. 

their houses, nay, the modesly of their females — in a word, every 
thing that renders life agreeable, remind me forcibly, that I am 
not going to bed in France. 

I slept well, and after paying twenty francs for the endorsement 
of my passport, having neglected to bring the Prussian claw from 
Paris, I resumed my journey. Three leagues over an uncultivated 
country, I passed the remains of an old castle and mutilated 
tower, and entered upon a finer prospect, with the pretty little town 
of Homburg in the fore-ground, at the foot of a mountainous pre- 
cipice. 

At Homburg, I enjoyed my pipe and supper in company with 
my German landlord, whose extraordinary deference to my opinion 
was calculated to make me grow in favour with myself. My next 
destination was to Kaisers Lautern, over eight leagues of dreary 
and uninteresting country. Snow fell in considerable quantities, 
and every thing assumed the most wintry appearance, except that 
the cottages, and smoke, peeping through the woods, denoted that 
something like man was not distant. At Landshut I attended the 
Protestant church, in spite of the very noisy and bad singing, and 
the remains of Romish indulgencies, as keeping open shops, playing 
at cards, &c. Resumed my journey over an unpleasant wet road. 
The country appearing more cultivated, although barren of popu- 
lation, induced me to ask who tilled the lands: I could only, how- 
ever, conclude that a class of people called Labradores in Spain, 
come here to earn, like the Irish in our own country, a little mo- 
ney to enable them to go back to their homes. 

Kaisers Lautern is a considerable town, with seven thousand 
inhabitants. K is well built, and so clean, as to present somewhat 
of the appearance of an English Market, or Borough town. Its 
situation is agreeable, surrounded by high and cultivated lands. 
It is said to belong to the King of Bavaria at present ; at least the 
public-house at which I put up for the night, belonged to his Ma- 



FRANKFORT. 13 

jesty. Mayence, I believe, belongs to the Duke of Hesse CasseK 
Frankfort is a free city, and Prussia is within a stone's-throw, so 
that, in fact, it was difficult to know under whose colours I was 
wandering. So much for the Acts of the great Vienna Congress, 
which have placed seven flags within the compass of two leagues. 

Bidding adieu, however, to Kaisers Lautern and politics, I passed 
the fertile and picturesque plain on which it stands, and ascending 
a long and steep hill, entered on a close country covered with 
thick and impenetrable forests; dined at Kirchen Boland, and 
reached Alzey late in the evening. The inhabitants were not re- 
markable for civility: for the landlord of the inn I first stopped 
at, actually turned me out, because I was no more than a foot 
traveller. I judged it better to pocket the affront; and having 
purchased a small loaf of bread, I pushed on, fatigued, cold, and 
mortified, till I reached a cottage, whose adjoining barn furnished 
my night's shelter, and I reposed with perfect content upon clean 
hay. Next morning I quitted my humble dwelling, and accom- 
panied by innumerable carts, carriages, and Jews, proceeded to- 
wards Frankfort. I arrived at Mayence, stopping at the Imperial 
Hotel, near the Cathedral, and obtained my first view of that 
city, which holds so high a rank in Germany. The privileges for- 
merly appertaining to it and its Archbishop, are gone on the same 
errand as many others, in consequence of the recent arrangements 
of the Congress of Sovereigns. 

The Rhine here assumes a magnificent appearance, about the 
same width as the Thames at Westminster, and is crossed by a 
bridge formed of fifty-two boats, six hundred and thirty paces in 
length. Passing through a small fortified place opposite to the 
city, I pursued the road to Frankfort; and after walking over an 
elevated and romantic country (whose general scenery reminded 
me of the Sierres of Placentia, viewed from the high road between 
Badajos and Madrid, heightened as the comparison is by the strik- 



14 SCHLUCTEN. 

ing similarity of the productions), I was at length gratified with 
entering the free and independent city of Frankfort. 

The approach is very pleasing, amidst all orchards, gardens^ 
and vineyards; and one of those small, but beautiful towns, be- 
longing to the opulent merchants, is contiguous to the city. The 
houses are all on an extensive scale; the architecture is good, and 
the material generally free-stone. Another range of stately edi- 
fices, now converted into manufactories, and buildings of every 
imaginable size and decoration, from the stately mansion to the 
comfortable residence, down even to the neat cottage and the 
miserable cabin; all are here seen promiscuously thrown together, 
and liberty seems to wave her triumphant banner over them. 

I put up at the Wine-Bush, a. stately hotel, of which a Mr, 
Mohr was landlord, and whose brother had kept a tavern in 
England for twenty-eight years; but in consequence of some in- 
formation lodged against him at the Alien Office, he had been 
compelled to quit, with an English wife and six children, to seek 
an asylum in his brother's hotel. 

Frankfort, as a city, is too well known, and its fair too cele- 
brated to need description here. It was formerly a fortified place, 
but the walls have been entirely demolished, and indeed their ruins 
are the best protection it can have. A young Livonian Baron, 
whom I met at the ordinary, gave me letters of recommendation 
to the frontiers of Siberia, and I departed. 

The month of March brought with it much snow, and made my 
walk to Hanau a dreary one. Next day, passing over a low, flat, 
and uninteresting country, I reached Schlucten. The road was in 
a dreadful state, and my feet equally so. I took temporary refuge 
in a small inn, whence I was soon driven by the rudeness of a sot. 
This fellow had even the audacity to follow me to another; but 
here his character was well known, and the opportune appearance 
of his wife, and her very free and dexterous use of a good 



ERFURTH. 1 5 

cudgel, together with the remonstrance of the landlord, for a time 
rid me of his impertinence. Finding, however, a strong backer 
in his faithful dog, who would not permit any interference between 
man and wife, he again seated himself, and I set out once more in 
quest of a night's quarters. 

Fuld, a beautiful little city, with a handsome cathedral, some 
colleges, two squares, many fine public and private buildings, and 
well regulated promenades, Was, after Nancy, the pleasantest place 
I had seen on my journey. I arrived very late and much fatigued, 
having been induced to go so far by my companions, a wandering 
tailor, a regenerator of kettles, and an Italian cage-maker. Our 
community of fair enabled me to reduce my expenses one-half, a 
measure not wholly unnecessary from the state of my purse. A 
miserable barn was our only shelter, which it may be supposed I 
quitted as soon as possible, for Berka, ascending a steep hill knee= 
deep in snow. The task was difficult, nor did I arrive till noon. 
The view from the top of the hills which over-hang Berka, was 
extensive, but desolate; hill, dale, and valley, covered with snow, 
and nothing but the steeples of churches and the smoking chim- 
neys to relieve the scene, till, late in the evening, I reached Sax 
Gotha. It appeared a handsome city, with many edifices. 

Erfurth, where I arrived at noon next day, lies in a deep valley, 
and is well fortified. The country round it is tolerably cultivated 
and better peopled. It is remarkable, as the place where the al- 
lied sovereigns met upon a raft to adjust measures for their rela- 
tive aggrandizements. Here I saw, for the first time, bad black 
bread; and here, also, a sight that richly compensated the other, 
viz. the first ray of the sun since I had left Paris. At Weimar I 
first met with sledges. Hence, in disobedience to the injunctions 
of the police at Erfurth, to wait upon the Russian Minister Pleni- 
potentiary, I set forward to Naumburg. The road was as wretch- 
ed as the scenery delightful; lying through fertile valleys, studded 



16 LEIPSIC. 

with villages in all the varieties of picturesque situation; the dark 
lofty oaks, shadowing the pure surface of the snow, contrasting 
with the beauty of the close green fir. I could gain no reception 
into any house at Naumburg but that of a poor shoemaker, which I 
did at the price of a glass of schnaps; for a second glass he mended 
my shoes and gaiters, and provided me with a truss of straw, on 
which I slept soundly. 

Next day, accompanied by a Jew, I reached Leipsic, passing 
through Lutzen. The misery and barrenness of the scene fairly 
vie with the celebrity of its name. Four trees were pointed out to 
me as the spot at which the Ex-Emperor commenced his flight. 
Lutzen formerly belonged to Saxony, but is now attached to Prus- 
sia; a sad change for the poor inhabitants, who complain bitterly 
of the exactions enforced by their new master. Nothing in the 
scene of Lutzen denotes the proximity of so celebrated a capital 
and court as Leipsic; which, in my judgment, will bear no com- 
parison with Frankfort, except in size. I walked round this city 
the following day; but as I have nothing good to say of it, I will 
at least abstain from depreciating it. 

Travelling over a low country, and by a bad road I reached the 
large, dirty and scattered town of Dueben, the first in Prussia 
Proper, and standing on the banks of the Salle. My reception was 
uncivil, if not inhuman. My passport demanded, myself interro- 
gated by a set of whiskered ruffians, obliged to move from one 
guard to another, the object of sarcasm and official tyranny, I 
wanted no inducement, fatigued as I was, to proceed on my jour- 
ney, but even this was not permitted me. A large public room 
full of military rubbish, and two long benches serving as chairs to 
an equally long table, were the place and furniture allotted me. I 
asked the landlord for supper; he laughed at me; — and to my de- 
mand of abed, grinningly pointed to the floor, and refused me even 
a portion of the straw which had been brought in for the soldiers. 



DUEBEN. Vt 

Of all the daemons that have ever existed or been imagined in hu- 
man shape, I thought the landlord of the inn the blackest. The 
figure of Gil Perez occurred to me, but it sunk in the comparison 
with the wretch then before me, for ill nature and personal hide- 
ousness. His face half covered with a black beard and large 
bristly whiskers, his stature below the common; his head sunk be- 
tween his shoulders, to make room for the protuberance of his 
back; his eyes buried in the ragged locks of his lank grisly hair; — 
add to this a club-foot, and a voice which, on every attempt of 
speech, was like the shrieking of a screech-owl, and you have 
some faint idea of this mockery of a man. For some time he strut- 
ted about wrapped up with furs, which ill concealed the ragged 
testimonials of his wretched poverty, and taking immense quanti- 
ties of snuff. The oaf at length deliberately opened a large box, 
and, placing in it a pillow and some straw, wrapped a blanket 
round him, and committed his person to this rude but novel species 
of bed, shutting the lid half way down with a piece of wood ap- 
parently kept for that purpose. I confess, my indignation was so 
strongly excited, that had materials been at hand, I had the stron- 
gest inclination to nail the monster down in his den. My feelings 
resolved into a determination to run all risks for an escape, and 
accordingly getting out at the window in the middle of the night, 
I took the road to Wittenberg, where I arrived at eight o'clock in 
the morning, after travelling over fifteen miles of sandy common, 
having previously crossed the Elbe by a large wooden bridge. The 
river is formidable and the city fortified. Every step of the latter 
part of this journey stamps on my mind the recollection of the 
mild character of the Saxon, compared with that of the ruffian 
Prussian. From Wittenberg to Treuenbrizen, is a good road, but 
a few villages and a forest of firs constitute all that is visible, ex- 
cept a large dirty market town, which, however, provided me with 
clean straw, and consequently with a good bed. 
C 



18 POTSDAM. 

Being now arrived in the land of turnpikes, where good roads 
and post-houses never fail, I started for Potsdam, distant thirty 
miles, and arrived in the early part of the evening. A flat country, 
sterile and almost deserted, save by the sandy pine, presents little 
to denote the approach to this royal retreat. With infinite difficulty 
I obtained admittance to a house, content to purchase black bread 
for my supper, and the use of a bench for my bed. Of Potsdam I 
can only say that the appearance is handsome, the royal edifices 
extensive, and many private ones magnificent; but so great an air 
of melancholy pervades the place, that it seems a fitter residence 
for the dead than the living; — I had the less regret at bidding it 
adieu. 

A fine avenue of trees, and a good road, conducted me to Berlin, 
nor could the fertile imagination of a Humboldt discover aught else 
to denote the approach to the capital of his own country. For my- 
self, I perambulated the streets nearly the whole of the night, in 
search of a lodging, and was at last compelled to sleep on a bench 
in the Promenade. Next morning, I waited upon his Excellency 
Mr. Rose, the British Minister, whom I found fully aware of the 
character of Berlin, and its inhabitants. He was so good as to 
send one of his coachmen with me, and through so powerful an in- 
terference I did at length get a comfortable unfurnished room in the 
capital of Prussia. It should, however, be observed, that the Mi- 
nister had offered me a room in his hotel, which my own indepen- 
dent plan, joined to a fear of incommoding his Excellency, induc- 
ed me to decline. 

During my stay in Berlin, I had the honour of an invitation to a 
grand dinner given to the minister of Prussia and the foreign am- 
bassadors, at which princes, counts, dignitaries, down even to the 
pedestrian traveller, were present. The dinner and wines were 
considered the best and choicest; but I would have preferred a 
plain joint and vegetables to all their unmeaning nothings, of made 



BERLIN. 19 

dishes, puffed cakes, et cetera. His Excellency asked me why I 
did not eat; I replied, I had seen nothing to partake of, at least 
nothing to satisfy a hungry traveller: his Excellency pardoned my 
honest boldness, and sent down a cold roast turkey and ham. Of 
these I had no difficulty in making a good dinner, and felt sensibly 
his Excellency's kind consideration. His Excellency, the Russian 
ambassador, had the goodness to present me with blank passports 
for whatever route I might prefer, an attention on his part becoming 
the representative of his illustrious master. The young prince 
Labanoff was also of the party, whom I greatefully particularize 
as the kind facilitator of my jourriey to St. Petersburg. 

Berlin is seated on the Spree, which runs through various an- 
gles of the city. Many parts of it are handsomely built, especi- 
ally what may be termed the court end; but every building, from 
the palace to the meanest hut, is built of brick, plaistered over. In 
short, Berlin is all show — a forced place, having little commerce, 
and less content: no smiling faces, no mediocrity, that happiest of 
all conditions. Berlin contains nothing but the most hardened mi- 
litary despots, and is, in short, a mere Court; though it contains 
two hundred thousand inhabitants. I saw no modes of gaining a 
livelihood, or even of passing time honestly. Billiards, cards, and 
dice, succeed to the spectacle of the parade, and the streets present 
nothing but sentinels on guard. 

Though a pedestrian, I was the first bearer of the information 
of the Duke de Berri's death, a full month's post being due at Ber- 
lin, owing to the immense quantity of snow. 



20 



CHAPTER II. 

Angermunde — Stettin — Corben — Cosben — Romini — Zanow — Schlaws— - 
Lauenburg — Neustadt — Dantzic — Koningsberg — Curisch Haff — Memel — ■ 
Prolangen — Mittau — Riga — Dorpat — Narva — Yamberg — Kipene — St. Pe- 
tersburg. 

The road from Berlin to Stettin is over a bleak and uncultivated 
country, where neither wood nor water, and but few people, are to 
be met with. The first night I put up at an old town, called Ber- 
nau, which threatens every day to fall on the heads of its inha- 
bitants. Next day I reached Angermunde, having previously 
passed through Neustadt, where I had the comfort of dining upon 
pork, pease pudding, and good beer. On the road are many small 
villages, inhabited by wood-cutters, which afforded strong proof 
of the high state of perfection to which the training of dogs may 
be brought, each of those animals drawing a considerable load of 
bille-twood. 

In Angermunde, which is a considerable town, with a large inn, 
I found no improvement in the Prussian character. I had stopt in 
the forenoon for refreshment at a little public house, where a car- 
riage had previously halted; and, entering the tap, demanded some 
beer, bread, and cheese. The owner of the carriage was par- 
taking of the same fare — good white bread and a bottle of ale. 
While I was enjoying, in hope, my companionship in these deli- 
cacies, the landlord set down before me certainly the worst bread 
and dirtiest beer I had ever seen. On my requesting to be placed 
on the same footing, he simply replied that those already before 
me were far too good, and that if I did not eat them I might go 



STETTIN. 21 

without; and, suiting the word to the sentiment, he immediately 
carried them away. Nor could any thing induce the brute either 
to return these or sell me better, until my considerate fellow-tra- 
veller called, as for himself, for a fresh loaf and bottle of ale, and, 
presenting them to me, expressed his regret that I should have been 
so insulted in the necessitous condition in which I appeared. I 
accepted his kind offer, and then discovered that he was not a 
Prussian but a Pole. 

I departed with the intention of reaching Stettin that night. 
The road was lined with horse-patrol, ostensibly to prevent smug- 
gling; but, in reality, to examine travellers and their papers. At 
five in the evening, I came in sight of the ocean, and, in the midst 
of much fatigue, felt refreshed by the reflection that I was nearing 
a seaport. I passed the drawbridge at half-past eight, just in time 
to prevent being locked out — a circumstance of near concernment 
to me, after forty miles of heavy and dreary walking. 

Stettin played me the same trick as Berlin. I in vain demand- 
ed a night's lodging at three different houses, though I had pre- 
viously ordered and eaten of as many suppers, for that express in- 
ducement. I then retreated to the wharf, cold and snowy as it 
was, when chance threw me in the way of a brother tar; with ge- 
nerous humanity, he roused me from the ground, on which I was 
lying; nor did he leave me until, at past midnight, he had suc- 
ceeded in inducing the landlord of the Copenhagen Inn, to receive 
me, on condition that my passport should be deposited in his 
hands, as a security. A bed was provided me, and I soon drowned 
in sleep the memory of the country I was in, and the cares and 
fatigues I had undergone in reaching it. 

Next morning I arose refreshed, and, in company of an honest 
Swede, waited upon his Excellency, Mr. Lutzen, the British Con- 
sul, to whom I presented a recommendatory note from Mr. Rose, 
who had given that very Mr. L. his situation. The reception I 



22 CORBEN— 'COSBEN. 

met with was barely decent at the lime, and on the following 
day an invitation was transmitted to " the English Gentleman,'* 
to dine, at his country seat. I confess I could not but regret that 
no Englishman should be found belter qualified to do justice to my 
countrymen. 

Stettin, on the left bank of the Oder, is a strong and command- 
ing position. Many opulent and respectable merchants residing 
in it, who carry on an advantageous trade during the early part of 
the summer. No vessel of considerable burthen can reach the 
city: they are loaded thirty miles to the northward, at a place 
called Swinnerman, between which and Stettin is a large lake, at 
this season an entire sheet of ice. The town is said to contain 
twenty-two thousand inhabitants. It is the residence, or rather 
the lunatic asylum, of the dowager Princess, mother of the late 
Duchess of York. Her Highness is well treated, having also the 
use of a country residence. 

Having refused Mr. Lutzen's hospitality, I took the road to 
Dantzic, over pasture land, and reached Golnow, a large scattered 
town, with a good inn and civil landlord. A fair had been held 
for the last three days, and much bustle still prevailed; after a 
comfortable refreshment I set forward, and reached Newgard and 
Pinnow the following day, amid snow, wind, and rain. Corben 
and Cosben, two miserable places, in a swampy situation, next 
brought me up, having several times missed my road, and some- 
times with but little hope of recovering it. One of these instances 
occurred, in an attempt to cross a frozen lake. Fortunately the 
water was not so deep as to prevent my reaching the opposite 
shore. I then determined to steer one course, till I made a land 
fall, which I was enabled to do, by keeping right before the wind. 
It was now three o'clock, when a person whom I met informed 
me I had come but sixteen miles instead of thirty: — took a fresh 



ZANOW. 23 

departure, with good advice, and at last did well. Thus much 
for quitting the high road to make a short cut, which a pedestrian 
should never do, except under a certainty of being right. 

A post-house called Romini, with a good civil landlord, belter 
wife, and seven well-behaved children, made me welcome, dried 
my clothes, and gave me a glass of schnaps to keep me warm; 
while a good supper of beef and potatoes was preparing for me. 
Cold, wet, weary, and half famished, I had entered the benevolent 
post-house; but one short hour restored me to life and good hu- 
mour, and ultimately to the enjoyment of a clean bed, made on 
the spot for my accommodation, by filling a tick with hay, and 
.sewing it up again. Happy, contented, though impoverished fa- 
mily, would to Heaven that benevolence like yours had more nu- 
merous followers among mankind! The whole property of this fa- 
mily could not have been worth ten pounds. I had arrived in a 
most miserable plight, the heavy and frequent rains having dilapi- 
dated my apparel, which, even in good weatlrer, was not calculated 
to last long. My cap I had lost in the icy swamp, and, in default, 
my head was bound up with a piece of red flannel. My trowsers 
were literally torn to tatters: my shoes tied to my feet, to prevent 
their falling off: my shirt, except a flannel one, and waistcoat, 
both superseded by my outer jacket. All I had retained was sound 
health and a contented mind, and I wanted no more; — for this ge- 
nerous family had, during the night, put my entire wardrobe to 
rights; and I departed the following morning with sound clothing, 
and reflections of heartfelt gratitude to have met with the benefi- 
cial exercise of such qualities in a quarter of the world where I 
had so little reason to expect them. 

Over an execrable road, sandy heath, and in cheerless wintry 
weather, I resumed my route, and reached Zanow, on the banks 
of the little river Coslin. Here again I found a lodging in a cob- 
bler's stall (it could scarcely be termed a room, being about nine 



24 SCHLAWS. 

feet square.) An old bedstead and straw mattress served for him 
and his grandson in one corner; in the second, was a fire-place, 
but no fire; in the third, a cupboard, with an empty glass and two 
or three broken plates; and in the fourth, a board for his journey- 
men to work upon, when he has business to employ them, which 
now served for my bed-place. In this state I passed the night, 
charmed with the contentment of old Crispin, whose whole hap- 
piness seemed wrapped up in the future welfare of his grandson. 
I was provided withsome straw and a horse rug, which, however, 
they might assimilate me to the inhabitants of a stable, were truly 
acceptable; for the night was cold, and the windows, which trans- 
mitted the light only through oiled paper, could not prevent the 
sensible intrusion of the cold air. 

Next morning, in spite of the obstacle of a sprained ankle, I 
pushed on towards Schlaws; where I was taken before the ma- 
gistrates, to answer the offence of smoking in the streets. My 
ignorance of the law; and my very palpable poverty, alone saved 
me from a fine. In the evening Preached Skolpe, over thirty-five 
miles of bad road. The police supplied me with quarters at the 
guard-house; a circumstance rendered almost necessary to me, 
from the unaccountable but manifest ill-will of the women towards 
me. The ill-fated Ledyard, had he been situated as I have often 
been, would have allowed exceptions to his beautiful encomium 
upon the benevolence of the fair sex. But Ledyard's fortune in 
this respect was better, and he was justified, by his own experience, 
in espousing the cause of the whole sex. 

At the guard-house I entertained the people with the history of 
my travels, past, present and to come, and so greatly were they in- 
terested by the recital that they actually strove to lay me under a 
promise of not going beyond St. Petersburg. They urged upon 
me their own habits and feelings so strongly indicative of content- 



NEUSTADT. 25 

ment, and even proposed to me to take a farm among them; but, 
from many reasons, I felt liille disposed to adopt the suggestion. 

Lauenburg next day became my halting place, after twenty- 
seven miles march; the country becoming better cultivated and 
more peopled than of late. I endured much from the bad condi- 
tion of my shoes, which the variations of weather made alter- 
nately like sponge and horn. I repaired the mischief as well as 
possible with spirits and tallow, the only resource I had, for my 
finances were not in a condition to allow me a new pair. I reach- 
ed Neustadt (eighteen miles), almost sinking under pain and 
fatigue. From hence the country assumes a very picturesque ap- 
pearance: it bears, however, a desperately bad name from the 
bands of robbers that infest it. For myself I was so far from ap- 
prehension on this point, that I laid my account with having my 
necessities mitigated by their means. The people, however, were 
civil and obliging. 

I now started for Dantzic, distant about thirty-three miles: at 
about the tenth I was overtaken by the poast-coach, and bargain- 
ed for a conveyance for three francs. This wretched vehicle, 
which does not merit the name even of a waggon, professes to 
accommodate nine passengers. It has three benches — the two 
back ones looking toward the front, the centre bench with- 
out a back: beyond the hindermost seat is the depository of the 
baggage, amounting to about one-third of the whole machine. It 
goes upon four wheels, each moving on a strong axletree, and is 
without any sort of spring whatever. The tout ensemble is pro- 
bably more like a show-cart than any thing else. 

Of its mortal content, two were well-dressed young men, con- 
nected with the commerce of Dantzic: a young nobleman about 
to join his regiment, to perform his regulated quota of a year's 
service: two dashing females, setting their caps at the two mer- 
chants— (these were bound to Dantzic or Konigsberg, to open the 
D 



26 DANTZIC. 

season as the ice breaks up and ships arrive, then to return to 
Berlin, under the auspices of Madam B.): a sergeant of the royal 
guard, having the charge of a priest, either banished or under ar- 
rest, for what offence I could not learn; they both appeared decent 
well behaved men. The eighth was a young Saxon Jew, from 
Leipsic, bound to Riga and St. Petersburg. His person was ren- 
dered remarkable by his long white soft flaxen hair, and while 
eye-lashes and eye-brows. He seemed about twenty, not defi- 
cient in common sense, although the company were much inclin- 
ed to make him their butt. In this vehicle and this society I reach- 
ed Dantzic, — to my no small satisfaction: for surely no pretence 
of a conveyance ever yet put forth by man can be compared with 
a Prussian poast-coach. Just fifteen hours were consumed in go- 
ing thirty-two miles. 

The following morning I paid my respects to Mr. Gibson, the 
British consul, who received me with his well-known cordiality 
and friendship. I dined with him; the intervening time being 
employed in walking about the city as much as the afflicted state 
of my feet would allow. 

Dantzic is so well known a place, that I shall not enter on any 
description of it here. It was formerly a free city. Its immense 
fortifications, which require an army of thirty thousand men to 
defend them, and the numerous sieges it has undergone, have 
given it a high and deserved reputation. Its present popula- 
tion is forty-five thousand, all now in allegiance to the king of 
Prussia. 

Though several inducements were held out to me to remain 
here, I staid only long enough to view a painting in the Exchange, 
which is deserving of notice, and another with a fine piece of 
sculpture in the cathedral. In the first a boat is represented in 
the act of crossing the river Styx; and several persons, at that time 
residents of Dantzic, are portrayed as the passengers, the burgo- 



KONIGSBERG. 27 

master and his daughter being particularly conspicuous. The 
story, however, says, that the natural anger of the parties thus 
libelled was appeased by the painter's consenting to add his own 
portrait to those already in the boat. The picture was then hung 
up in the Exchange: but the crafty artist contriving to gain admit- 
tance during the night, added to the figures that of an angel with 
a boat-hook stopping the boat, presumably in consequence of the 
painter's being in it. The burgomaster could not disguise his 
vexation, though the offence was thus neutralized; but the picture 
was suffered to remain. 

The other painting, for which the Emperor Alexander is said 
to have offered twenty-five thousand guineas [query, roubles?] is 
a representation of the Last Day. It is said to be one of the most 
ancient as well as finest specimens extant, and is the property of 
the city, who cannot alienate it. The sculpture, by Michael An- 
gelo, of the Crucifixion, is said to have been done from the obser- 
vations of real suffering, the artist having crucified and stabbed a 
boy expressly for that purpose. 

With a strong pair of English shoes, the present of my friend 
Mr. Marshall, I departed, passing the range of fortified hills on 
the right, and the port of Dantzic with its shipping on the left. I 
now entered on a well cultivated country, passed the neat little town 
of Dnishaw, crossing the Vistula by a well managed ferry. Thence 
to Marienberg, so celebrated for its castle, which I had no opport- 
unity of seeing, as it was at that time undergoing repair. The follow- 
ing day I reached Elbing, over twenty miles of low cultivated coun- 
try. It appeared a pretty town, having a good export trade by ves- 
sels, which, though at fifty miles distance from the sea, come up 
even to the city walls. The third day I reached Konigsberg (thirty- 
five miles) exceedingly tired. Although a walled, it is not a for- 
tified city; but contains sixty thousand inhabitants, and is certainly 
the second city in Prussia. The trade is considerable, though 



28 CUJR1SCH HAFF. 

checked by the shallowness of the navigation, which obliges ves- 
sels of burthen to load and unload their cargoes at Pillau. The 
privileges granted it by the present Sovereign have, however, in 
some considerable degree, lightened the inconvenience. 

My journey to Memel was over a cultivated country, until I got 
to the Curisch Haff, which I reached with some difficulty, having 
several times lost my way, and generally by misdirections. After 
a direct progress of only ten miles, an old woman (now, Leyciard, 
thou art right!) took pity upon me, and I passed the night com- 
fortably under her roof. A good fish supper, with a drop of my 
landlady's cordial, so exhilarated me as to induce me to join a 
group of dancers, who were thus commemorating Good-Friday, 
as well as celebrating a marriage, which had taken place that day, 
between a young fisherman and the " maid of the inn." 1 had 
the honour of waltzing with the bride, a fine buxom girl of nine- 
teen. 

I hesitated a little, next morning, upon the advice of an old sai- 
lor, to stop at the village till the Haff broke up, when 1 might get 
a passage to Memel, by water, free. The old tar had offered to 
find me in provisions, for the consideration of my assistance, in 
the mean time, in hauling the net. Perhaps, under circumstances, 
I might have acceded, if I could have relied on the security; but 
fearing this, I resolved to attempt the crossing of the Haff towards 
Krantz. I was, however, at the risk of my life, compelled to re- 
turn, and only late at night reached a large fishing village, called 
Jackaw. From thence, next day, along a sandy beach, with a 
sun which, even in this season and climate, enabled me to light 
my pipe by my spectacles, I got to a neat pos -house at Nidden- 
situated in the midst of sand-hills. 

A young recruit bound to Memel, had been my companion the 
previous day. In the evening a few fishermen, also going to Me- 
aiel, offered us a passage in their boat ; my companion consented 



CHURISCH HAFF. 29 

on the instant, and late and cold as it was, we embarked. The 
wiiul was fair, and we had but thirty-five miles to go. The crew 
consisted of iwo men and a woman, all three of whom laboured 
at the oar until midnight, when, having passed the village of 
Swatsash, the boat encountered the ice, at a narrow pari of the 
Hiiff, and in the severity of the frost, and the extreme darkness, 
we became completely blocked up. 

In this exigency, to give more room, the young recruit and I 
were obliged to quit. He, poor fellow ! had been enjoying a sound 
sleep, wrapped up in great-coats; to him, therefore, this reverse 
seemed severer than to me. For myself, I felt aware of the im- 
propriety of resuming our journey at that hour, and hungry and 
fatigued as we were. But what was to be done ? Return 1 would 
not, although a village was within two miles of us; yet to proceed 
was impossible, from our ignorance of the way, and the darkness 
of the night. We were also quite destitute of bread, tobacco, or 
schnaps, and my knapsack was in charge of the young Saxon 3 
who had agreed to take it to Memel for me. I felt as if com- 
pletely undone. Putting, however, a good face upon it, I took off 
my shoes, hat, and jacket, and taking a spare flannel waistcoat 
and drawers, which I had fortunately retained in a bundle with a 
dry pair of worsted stockings, with this I made myself a bed, put- 
ting my feet into my hat, and pointing them towards the wind, and 
my shoes under my head for a pillow: then lying down and draw- 
ing my jacket over my shoulders, I slept very soundly; although, 
upon awaking next morning I was both wet and stiff; but after 
taking some strong exercise backwards and forwards, I recovered 
the use of my limbs and my health. 

The recruit had not slept at all, but lay bemoaning his hard 
fate, which indeed was sufficiently severe; his tight pantaloons, 
military boots, and tighter coat, exposing him much more than 
myself to the inclemency of the weather. As he was too obsti- 



£0 MEMEL. 

nate to take my advice, or follow my example, all I could do 
was to pity him, and rouse him to take some violent exercise. 
This in some degree recovered him, and we moved on towards 
Memel, crossing the isthmus, and following the northern path. By 
seven in the morning we reached a tavern on the summit of a hill, 
which overlooks the city, and here I was obliged to leave him, in 
a slate of fever. Upon my gaining the beach, it appeared doubt- 
ful whether the ferry-boat could attempt the passage, or not, there 
being a heavy gale, and the ice driving with great velocity; I 
however persevered, and was safely landed in Memel, in time to 
partake of a good dinner at the Sun Inn. 

Memel is a highly respectable, convenient commercial town. 
The harbour is smali and secure. A good theatre, large church, 
public hospital, and a palace, are its principal buildings. Its 
trade would be much more considerable, were it not for the mono- 
polies and privileges granted to its rival Konigsberg. Its exports 
and imports (the same commodities as in other Prussian towns) 
are mostly in the hands of Polish Jews, the merchants having little 
cordiality with each other. The contraband trade with Russia 
was formerly considerable, but heavy losses and heavier punish- 
ments seem to have subdued this spirit of speculation. I re- 
ceived great marks of kindness from its inhabitants, who even ex- 
postulated with me on my seemingly unhappy mode of life. If 
happiness, however, be the one pursuit in this world, it may admit 
of question, whether a traveller does not attain a greater portion 
of it than most others — certainly more than those who languish on 
the lap of ease, and who, in one shape or other, feel the tortures 
of anxiety, though surrounded by all the luxuries which affluence 
can procure. 

The Saxon having arrived with my knapsack, I departed, i& 
company with a real friend in the person of Mr. Robson, who 
kindly gave me a seat in his carriage as far as our road lay toge- 



MITTAU. 31 

then. At thirteen versts we reached the frontier, at a small Rus- 
sian town called Polangen. A police office, guard-bouse, and cus- 
tom-house are established here. Our passports were backed for a 
silver rouble, and the same sum saved our baggage from a rude 
and useless search. The manifest advantage to the traveller in 
the regulations on the frontier, no less than the presence of Cos- 
sacks, served to remind me that I had entered the Russian em- 
pire. 

The road to Liebau is generally through a sandy forest of 
pines, the trees of which were torn up by the roots or bent double 
by the effects of late gales, rendering the road difficult to pass. 
From Liebau we coutinued our route with post horses harnessed 
in a teelega. a vehicle peculiar to Russia, and which certainly may 
remain so, being constructed on a model from which no other na- 
tions would desire to copy. It is sufficiently easy of description, 
being in short just the shape of a baker's trough with open rail- 
ings for the sides. Ii is long enough to lounge or even lie down 
in, and, filled, as it is generally, with hay, is really no very un- 
pleasant vehicle; the absence of springs being in some measure 
counterbalanced by the breadth of the axleirees and the small- 
ness of the wheels ; which, while it lessens the chance of over- 
turning, renders the danger, in such an event, less imminent. Our 
route to Mittau was performed agreeably, and my friend did the 
honours as became one in his situation in life. The scenery was 
not devoid of interest, the country being well cultivated and tolera- 
bly wooded, though stragglingly inhabited. 

Mittau, the ancient capital of Courland, has not much appear- 
ance of a city, though it seems to have been well built. The 
royal or rather imperial palaces are extensive ranges of building 
converted to one use, all stiil in an unfinished state. We were 
detained some time by the ice in the river Aa, and nothing but an 
extra rouble could have passed us across. We had then to walk 



32 



RIGA. 



three miles to reach the post-house: here my friend, whose weight 
did not admit of his moving with the same velocity or ease as 
myself, was knocked up, and we hahed for the night, receiving 
every civility and attention. 

The banks of the Dwina and the city of Riga hove in sight the 
next day, and we reached the latter at noon. The history and 
description of this ancient city are Well known. The emperor 
appears much attached to it, and has honoured the British consul, 
a gentleman and merchant esteemed and respected by all classes, 
with particular marks of his consideration; having even conde- 
scended to accept apartments in his beauuful mansion. During 
the late invasion by Napoleon, the suburbs were burnt by order of 
the governor, on what authority I know not; but he preferred sui- 
cide to the survival of his honour, or the result of a court-martial. 
New edifices are now erecting on the site of the old suburbs, 
which bid fair to become the most beautiful part of the city. A 
magnificent view of the city, with the surrounding country highly 
cultivated, is commanded from the top of the Livonian steeple, 
three hundred feet high. Quitting Riga, still in company with 
Mr. Robson, I continued in the same easy carriage, and over the 
same execrable sandy road, to Woolmar; the country thinly 
peopled and less cultivated. Here, to my extreme regret, and 
with a deep impression of his kindness, my friend and I parted, 
our routes lying at right angles. I was now for the first time alone 
in Russia, and my reflections on the circumstance were rather of 
a melancholy cast. At Stackeln I overlook the St. Petersburg 
waggon, but its pace was too slow to induce my joining company; 
otherwise I would gladly have availed myself of it both for gui- 
dance and protection. I therefore pushed on, and soon reached 
the considerable village of Gulben; and next day at Udin, I first 
trod Russian snow, proving that I had travelled faster than the 



NARVA. . 33 

seasons, as though winter had passed me in the middle, I found it 
still lingering in the northern boundary of Europe. 

The inhabitants hitherto appear civil and less phlegmatic than 
the Germans; although an exception to this character bad the 
knavery to make off with a pipe, a pound of tobacco, and the pair 
of shoes which I had received from Mr. Marshall. Such things 
once lost, there is but little hope of their recovery; I therefore 
made no complaint. Reached Dorpat considerably fatigued, 
having walked forty miles from Teyliz. Upon my arrival it be- 
gan to rain hard. I procured with difficulty a lodging in the en- 
trance of a tallow-chandler's shop, at least such I judged it from 
the nature of its effluvia. 

Dorpat is a beautiful little city, with a university ; and bids fair, 
for its regularity and cleanliness, to vie wish Nancy in France. It 
stands upon the right bank of the Ember. Handsome edifices, 
with an imperial palace ; wide, clean, and regular streets; a beau- 
tiful stone bridge, in a picturesque and fertile country, with its 
local situation between two lakes, bespeak its important rank, in- 
dependently of its antiquity. 

On the following day I reached Nennal. I observed on my 
route none but ugly women and long bearded men, a sterile 
country, — and yet to me a costly one, for I was obliged to pay a 
silver rouble for a coffee -breakfast, —a charge I shall take care 
never to incur again, as not suiting the state of my finances. In 
spi'e of the approach of spring, the weather seemed to increase 
in coldness, and some snow fell; but my anxiety induced me to 
push for Narva, where I arrived in time to breakfast; — -the road 
relieved only with imperial post-houses. 

Narva, a considerable town, and the first in the government of 
St. Petersburg, possesses massive remains of an ancient fortress, 
built by Ivan Vassilich the Great, overhanging the perpendicular 
E 



34 • YAMBERG, 

banks of the Narova, It carries too much of a military air for 
me to particularize. 

When on the point of resuming my journey, I was accosted by 
a black gentlemen, who, as he informed me, was a resident and 
retired merchant of St. Petersburg. Understanding that I was a 
foreigner, he entered into many inquiries with me, of my rank, 
country, the object of my travels, and my reason for pursuing them 
on foot. To these questions I replied; and to the last simply ob- 
served, that I was in the habit of travelling on foot, and that in- 
deed I could not afford to see the world in any more convenient 
manner. He expressed his regret, that a man of my merit had not 
been better rewarded by fortune — and his satisfaction at the same 
time, that he had it in his power to offer me a lift even to the 
capital of Russia, having two carriages empty; and though he was 
prevented by an affair of importance from resuming the journey 
that day, I accepted the offer, and agreed to await his pleasure, 
rejoiced at the opportunity afforded me of entering the Imperial 
capital in style, with less expense, and still less fatigue. In the 
mean time, we ate and drank freely at his charge; and not to ap- 
pear backward, I ordered for myself the luxury of a proper bed- 
room, where I slept well. 

I learnt next morning that the important business which had de- 
tained my friend, was neither more nor less than an intrigue with 
a rosy-cheeked chamber-maid. This being despatched, we depart- 
ed; be in the first, and I in the second carriage, each drawn by 
four horses. I had a specific charge from him to use no ceremony 
in abusing the coachman, if he should slacken in his driving. I 
soon forgot this admoniiion in a sound sleep, for which, by the by, 
I afterwards got a severe reprimand. 

We passed through Yamberg, an imperial residence in a ruin- 
pus state; when the Gulph of Finland, opening to our view, pre- 



ST. PETERSBURG. 35 

seated to us an immense mass of ice, studded with little snowy 
hillocks; but without a single vessel over its whole surface. 

We reached Kipene the next evening, where we halted for post 
horses. The country had been a low overflowed desert. The 
weather was cold; and I was reminded by my feelings, that we 
had reached about (he latitude of 60°. My companion, having 
again treated me with supper and bed, left me for the night, evi- 
dently a little nettled at his ill success in engaging the affections 
of a little Russian girl who had waited on us at table. 

While at breakfast next morning, and just as (he horses were 
announced, my companion asked me whether I was furnished with 
a passport. I replied in the affirmative. He requested to see it; 
and observing my name, inquired if 1 was related "to Admiral 
Kakran, who was in de West Indies, at de capture of de Danish 
Islands in 1807 ?" Being informed I was the Admiral's nephew, 
he asked, "Are you the son of Massa Kakran Jahnstone9" — 
" Yes, I am." — " You are den," said he, "dat lilly Massa Jonny, 
I know, at de same time." — It now turned out that this black gen- 
tleman with the two carriages and four horses each, had been my 
father's and my uncle's servant thirteen years before. Having 
talked over old matters, he remarked that he could never have re- 
cognized me, from the alteration that time had made in my fea- 
tures; observing that I seemed to have verified the West Indian 
proverb, " Like the black man's pig, very lilly, but dam old." I 
acknowledged the justice of the remark, and proceeded to inquire 
his history; but, as he did not seem inclined to be communicative 
on this head, I did not press him: and we proceeded — both in the 
same carriage; my friend no longer considering me as a menial 
follower. 

At noon, on the 30th of April, I reached St. Petersburg, having 
been eighty-three days from London in performing a distance of 
sixteen hundred miles, an average of nearly twenty miles a-day. 



36 ST. PETERSBURG. 

My sable friend, at parting, declined to give me his address. I 
suppressed my chagrin; but felt an increased curiosity to learn the 
source of his wealth and his situation in life. 

The following morning I was relating the adventure at a friend's 
house, where Doctor Ryan (the medical attendant of the young 
Prince LabanorT's family, with whom I had dined at the house of 
Mr. Rose, in Berlin) was present. He was mentioning that the 
young Prince, being on the road from Petersburg to Berlin, had 
been overtaken by winter in his summer carriage; and as the lat- 
ter season was near at hand, had sent his black servant to Narva, 
to bring his carriages to the capital. Fortune's frolic was now 
explained: my wealthy, dashing, over-bearing and intriguing com- 
panion, being no more than the very humble attendant of his High- 
ness. 

Having* once got settled in a comfortable lodging, my first duty 
was to call upon Sir Daniel Bailey, the British Consul-General, 
then the only representative of the British Court; — Lord Cath- 
cart having quitted St. Petersburg, and Mr. Cassamajor deceased. 
In Sir Daniel I found not only a sincere friend, but an able advo- 
cate for the plans I had in view. Through his means I transmit- 
ted a memorial to Count Nesselrode, the foreign minister, who 
handed it to Count Kotchubey for the approbation of his Imperial 
Majesty. The memorial contained a request, that I might be per- 
mitted to pass through the Russian Empire, on my way to America, 
either by Kamtchaika, or Behring's Straits. I also solicited a 
sealed mandate from the Emperor, with an order to all governors 
and persons in authority, to assist me to the utmost of their power; 
besides an open order to the police, not to interfere with, or molest 
me. I requested, in addition, an especial letter to the Governor- 
General of Siberia. 

I had been given to understand that his Imperial Majesty had 
no objections to my proceeding, although he expressed a belief, 



ST. PETERSBURG. 37 

that when I should be furnished with the required documents, I 
should flinch from my purpose. I soon, however, satisfied the 
Minister upon this point, by declaring I would be ready to set out 
at half an hour's notice. In the mean time the Intendant-General 
of police gave me three audiences, examining me as to my rank 
and condition, my plan and its object, wiih the et cetera of inter- 
rogatories, administered by persons in official situations, when 
desirous of extracting information beyond the avowed object. 

His Excellency, at length, promised me his assistance, and re- 
commended me to Count Kotchubey, into whose hands my business 
had entirely fallen. The Count also gave me three audiences, 
repeating the same interrogatories as the Intendant. Finding, 
however, that I adhered to one simple story — stating as my object, 
a wish to employ, improve, and amuse myself, at the same time 
rendering to society all the service of which I was capable — his 
Excellency also dismissed me with favour; and through his inter- 
ference, sanctioned by the generosity and noble-mindedness of the 
Emperor, I procured even more than I had expected, or demand- 
ed. His Imperial Majesty had also the consideration to ask Co- 
lonel Cathcart, who had recently arrived as successor to Mr Cas- 
samajor, whether I wanted money, and how much, to enable me 
to start. 1 replied in the negative, expressing, very truly, my sur- 
prise and gratitude at the offer. I was, moreover, instructed, in 
case of such necessity, to apply to the respective governors, at the 
places I should pass. 

That this unsolicited munificence on the part of the Emperor, 
could only have sprung from the generous feelings of his heart, 
and was not adopted as a fapon de parley is clear, from the fact, 
that his Imperial Majesty did afterwards request of Sir Charles Ba- 
got to be informed, whether I really needed money, accompanied 
with an intimation, that in such case, I should be supplied from 
the Imperial Treasury. I think I do no wrong to anyone, in be- 



38 ST. PETERSBURG. 

Heving, that no other crowned head in Europe, would have given 
itself any concern about me, or nay concerns, or have taken any 
notice of a stranger presenting himself, without any recommenda- 
tion of any weight, with the single exception of a private letter of 
introduction to Sir Robert Kerr Porter. 

Among other intimations made to me, as from the Emperor, 
was one which I believe originated with the Directors of the Rus- 
sian American Company: it was in the shape of a request that 1 
should refrain from making any inquiries respecting the atfairs of 
the said Company. Coming through a public channel, I of course 
considered it my duty to promise compliance with ihe request, 
though it appeared to me singular that the Russian Company should 
have for one moment suspected me of ill-will towards them, or of 
being employed as a spy on their affairs. It is, however, certain 
that they had some apprehension of this sort; as they not only 
threw obstructions in my way to the Emperor, but after offering 
and promising me letters of recommendation to their different set- 
tlements and chancellories, refused them; upon the plea that they 
were useless, from my ignorance of the Russian language. Whether 
Mr. Crammer, their director, from whom this ttnlooked for and 
unhandsome treatment emanated, believed that Russian civility 
would be limited to those who understood the language, I know 
not; but every considerate person must perceive that the less I un- 
derstood of the manners, language and customs of any foreign 
country, the more 1 actually stood in need of assistance in it. And 
if the Company were conscious that their affairs required secrecy, 
their harsh conduct towards me was certainly the least likely mode 
of binding me to their interests, or of securing the fulfilment of any 
promise they might oblige me to make. 

During my three weeks stay at St. Petersburg, I was most hos- 
pitably received by several respectable British merchants. I em- 
ployed the spare time in walking about the capital and viewing its 



ST. PETERSBURG. 39 

wonders; anil although I abandon the description of them, as a 
task beyond my power, I cannot help saying that no city I have 
seen can equal it in external magnificence. Large, straight, and 
parallel streets, no blepublic buildings in every style of archiiecture, 
numerous imperial and private palaces, handsome pavements for 
carriages and foot-passengers, several beautiful canals running 
round and through the city, and carrying away every offensive 
matter, the perfect cleanliness in every part, its immense number 
of churches, and lastly, its magnificent river washing the finest 
quays in Europe; — these are only the more striking features of St. 
Petersburg. The bustle in most of the principal streets, and the 
number of vehicles of various descriptions add to its importance. 
It is, however, a little too stiffened with a military air, being every 
where crowded with soldiers and police-officers, and the daily pa- 
rades are better attended than the workshops and manufactories. 
Nor is this tendency surprising when it is considered that, in one 
short war, Russia has arisen from comparative insignificance, to 
rank as the third if not the second military power in Europe. It 
may indeed be objected that her advances are too rapid for her age; 
but this point I leave for discussion to those who have not before 
them a journey of eight or ten thousand miles, for which I have 
not a single hour to make preparation. 



40 



CHAPTER III. 

St. Petersburg — Tzarsko Selo — Tosna — Novgorod — Zaitzova — Yedrova — 
Vishney-Volotchok — Torjock — Tver — Uavidova — Moscow — Vladimir — 
Dratchevo — Pogost — Paulovo — Nishney Novgorod. 

I was now furnished with all the documents which I had deemed 
necessary; they consisted of the following: The customary pass- 
port, with the substitution of the minister's for the governor ge- 
neral's signature ; a secret letter to the governor-general of Sibe- 
ria; and two official document? which I shall give at length. 

The first of these (addressed—" To all civil governors," and 
signed by the minister of the interior) states that — " The bearer 
hereof, Captain John Cochrane, of the British royal navy, pur- 
posing to travel through Russia on foot, is now on his departure 
for Kamtchatka, with the intention of penetrating from thence to 
America. 

" Having by the command of his Imperial Majesty provided 
this traveller with open instructions to the police of all the towns 
and provinces lying in his tract from St. Petersburg to Kamtchatka, 
this is also to desire all the chiefs of the different governments 
through which he may travel, to aid Captain Cochrane, as far as 
possible, to proceed on his journey without interruption, as well 
as to afford him lawful defence and protection in case it should be 
desired." 

The other was an " Open Order of his Imperial Majesty 
Alexander the First, Autocrat of all the Russias," &c. &c. &c. 
signed by the same minister; and stating that " the bearer hereof, 



DEPARTURE FROM ST. PETERSBURG 41 

Captain John Cochrane of his Britannic Majesty's royal navy, 
having undertaken to travel on foot through the Russian empire, 
is now on his way to Kamtchatka, intending from thence to pass 
over to America. The police of the towns and provinces lying 
in his track from St. Petersburg to Kamtchatka, are in conse- 
quence hereof, not only forbidden to obstruct Captain Cochrane in 
his journey, but are moreover commanded, in case of necessity, to 
afford him every possible assistance." 

I quitted the hospitable habitation of Sir Robert Porter, on the 
24th May; and with my knapsack on my back, set out, and trot- 
ted over a partially cultivated country. A pretty avenue of birch 
trees lined the road, as if to accompany me as far as possible on 
my departure from the precincts of civilized man. Nature here 
got the better of a tolerably stout heart; and, as I turned round to 
catch a last glimpse of ihe capital I had left, and of the friends to 
whom I had bade, perhaps, a last adieu, I could not suppress my 
grief, and, had not my honour been committed, should certainly 
have returned. A sigh escaped me as I ejaculated a last farewell, 
till startling at the expression of my weakness, I resumed my jour- 
ney with slow and melancholy steps. 

It was ten o'clock (for I had now a watch,) and I had reached 
six miles. The night was beautifully clear, though rather cold 
from the effects of a northern breeze; while the moon was near 
her full. 1 looked at the beautiful luminary, and actually asked 
myself whether I were, as had been asserted, under the baneful in- 
fluence of that planet. Smiling that I received no reply, 1 then 
considered my projects and intentions, and the conduct I ought to 
follow; and, sitting down at a fountain on the Poulkousky hill, I 
read to myself a few lessons, which the time and the occasion 
seemed to inspire. " Go," said I, " and wander with the illiterate 
and almost brutal savage! — go and be the companion of the fero- 
cious beast! — go and contemplate the human being in every ele- 
F 



41 DEPARTURE FROM ST. PETERSBURG. 

ment and climate, whether civilized or savage — of whatever tribe, 
nation, or religion. Make due allowance for the rusticity of their 
manners; nor be tempted to cope with them in those taunts, in- 
sults, and rudenesses to which the nature of thy enterprise will 
subject thee. Contemn those incidental circumstances which but 
coo often surprise mankind from their good intentions, and de- 
prive the world of much useful and interesting information. Avoid 
all political and military topics, and remember that 

The proper study of mankind is man. 

Should robbers attack thee, do not by a foolish resistance, endan- 
ger thy life. — Man may become hardened by crimes, and persist 
in the practice of them, till meeting with resistance he will be 
urged to murder: but man is still a human being, even while 
seeking his subsistence by rapine and plunder; and seldom, from 
mere wantonness, will he spill the blood of his fellow creature. It 
is only by patience, perseverance, and humility; by reducing thy- 
self to the lowest level of mankind, that thou canst expect to pass 
through the ordeal with either safety or satisfaction." Something 
like these were myself dictated precepts, and I pledged (heir per- 
formance in a draught from the cool and limpid fountain. 

In company with some carters I resumed my journey; and, de- 
positing my knapsack in one of their vehicles, entered into 
conversation as well as my scanty knowledge of German would 
allow me. 

As we proceeded, there suddenly rose to the south-east a tre- 
mendous blaze, the cause of which it seemed difficult to conjec- 
ture. At first I imagined it might be, as I had often seen in Eng- 
land, a blazing bonfire, with a group of mirthful rustics revelling 
round it. But the scene grew soon too terrific to allow of so sim- 
ple a solution, the flame rising to a prodigious height, and the 
smoke rolling into a beautiful dark arch on the clear sky. Im- 



TZARSKO SELO. 43 

mense masses of fire, and sparks at intervals, exploded and sepa- 
rated like a rocket. 

We continued to gaze as we advanced, till, on reaching the 
beautiful town of Tzarsko Selo, the source was, indeed, but too 
apparent — it was the Emperor's favourite palace, wrapt in an in- 
extinguishable flame. I had looked forward with hope, to enjoy 
the survey of so celebrated an edifice, and had actually taken a 
letter of recommendation to Prince Theodore Galitzin, one of its 
principal inhabitants. It was midnight. Parties of men surround- 
ed the wasting pile. All, however, was order and regularity: not 
a voice was heard amid the thousands of people employed. The 
Emperor was present, evidently impressed with extreme regret, 
and all appeared powerfully to partake the sentiment. His Ma- 
jesty, however, continued to give frequent directions with perfect 
coolness. 

Tzarsko Selo was the palace in which the Emperor, and his 
brother Constantine, had been brought up and passed their earlier 
years; it was hither, also, that the Emperor was accustomed to re- 
tire, when the cares of state permitted him, to lose among its ame- 
liorating beauties the anxieties of a throne, and the toils of so great 
a government. It had been greatly embellished by his Majesty, 
and was considered one of the most beautiful retreats in Europe. 
Years of time, and millions of money must be expended, to make 
it what it was but yesterday morning. 

Being excessively fatigued, and finding my individual exertions 
perfectly useless towards checking the progress of the flames, I re- 
tired to the gardens, where I passed a couple of restless hours on 
a bed of moss, amid herbs and flowers, whose sweet perfumes 
were as yet unvanquished by the fire or smoke. Some daemon 
seemed to hover over me, and my dreams presented the probable 
incidents of my journey, in all the horrors which imagination could 
shadow forth. I arose, and returned to the scene of devastation, 



44 TOSNA. 

now evidently increasing, and appearing to defy the numerous en- 
gines pouring upon it from all sides. 

The dome of the church fell with a tremendous crash, and such 
was the immense mass of fire that fell with it, and so great the 
force of the rebound, that in its second descent, and assisted by the 
wind, it set fire to two other parts of the Palace, until then consi- 
dered safe. At this critical moment his Imperial Majesty gave a 
strong proof of steady collectedness. While the fire was raging 
from apartment to apartment, apparently mocking the resistance 
of man, the Emperor gave direction that the doors should be walled 
up with bricks. This was instantly done, and by such an expe- 
dient alone could the amber, the most valuable chamber, have been 
wrested from the general destruction. 

In the morning I proceeded towards Tosna, where I arrived at 
seven in the evening. Young firs and birch border the road, which 
is good; though the country presents but little of interest, and seems 
to support but a slender population, considering its proximity to 
the capital. 

I passed the night in the cottage of a farmer, resigning myself 
to the attacks and annoyance of such vermin as generally haunt im- 
poverished dwellings. I was proportionably pleased in the morn- 
ing to pursue my journey. My route was towards Liubane, at 
about the ninth mile-stone from which I sat down, to smoke a se- 
gar, or pipe, as fancy might dictate, when I was suddenly seized 
from behind, by two ruffians, whose visages were as much con- 
cealed as the oddness of their dress would permit. One of them, 
who held an iron bar in his hand, dragged me by the collar towards 
the forest, while the other, with a bayonetted musket, pushed me 
on, in such a manner, as to make me move with more than ordi- 
nary celerity; while a boy, auxiliary to these vagabonds, was sta- 
tioned on the road side to keep a look out. 

We had got some sixty or eighty paces into the thickest part of 



T0SNA. 45 

the forest, when I was desired to undress, and having stript off my 
trowsers and jacket, then my shirt, and, finally, my shoes and stock- 
ings, they proceeded to tie me to a tree. From this ceremony, and 
from the manner of it, I fully concluded that they intended to try 
the effect of a musket upon me, by firing at me as they would at a 
mark. I was, however, reserved for fresh scenes: the villains, with 
much sangfroid seated themselves at my feet, and rifled my knap- 
sack and pockets, even cutting out the linings of the clothes in 
search of bank bills or some other valuable articles. They then 
compelled me to take at least a pound of black bread, and a glass 
of rum poured from a small flask which had been suspended from 
my neck. Having appropriated my trowsers, shirts, stockings and 
shoes (the last I regretted most of all, as they were a present from 
Sir D. Bailey) — as also my spectacles, watch, compass, thermo- 
meter, and small pocket-sextant, with one hundred and sixty rou- 
bles, they at length released me from the tree, and at the point of 
a stiletto made me swear that I would not inform against them, — 
such, at least, I conjectured to be their meaning, though of their 
language I understood not a word. 

Having received my promise, I was again treated to bread and 
rum, and once more fastened to the tree, in which condition they 
finally abandoned me. Not long after, a boy who was passing 
heard my cries, and set me at liberty. I did not doubt he was sent 
by my late companions upon so considerate an errand, and felt so 
far grateful: though it might require something more than common 
charity to forgive their depriving me of my shirt and trowsers, and 
leaving me almost as naked as I came into the world. 

To pursue my route or return to Tzarsko Selo would, indeed, 
be alike indecent and ridiculous, but being so, and there being no 
remedy, I made therefore ' forward' the order of the day; having 
first with the remnant of my apparel rigged myself a V Ecossoise, 
I resumed my route. I had still left me a blue jacket, a flannel 



46 TOSNA. 

waistcoat, and a spare one, which I tied round my waist in such a 
manner that it reached down to the knees: my empty knapsack 
was restored to its old place, and I trotted on with even a merry 
heart. 

Within a few miles I passed betwixt files of soldiers employed 
in making a new road, under the orders of General Woronoff, upon 
whom I waited to report the situation in which I was placed. The 
servant, perhaps naturally enough, refused to let me pass without 
first acquainting him with my business; 1 however, steadily persist- 
ed in my determination, and at length hearing the noise and scuffle 
of turning me out, the General appeared and listened to my mourn- 
ful tale. The good heart of his Excellency suggested the necessity 
of first administering me food: some clothes were then offered to 
me, which I declined, considering my then dress as peculiarly be- 
coming. The general then sent an officer with two men back to 
the village to make inquiries concerning the robbery. These were, 
however, fruitless, and I quitted, with many thanks to the General, 
in his own carriage, which was directed to lake me the first sta- 
tion. I soon discovered that carriage-riding was too cold, and 
therefore preferred walking, bare-footed as I was; and on the fol- 
lowing morning reached Tschudovo, a low and uncultivated waste, 
a hundred miles from St. Petersburg. Thence to Podberezie, and 
thence to Novgorod. I had passed on the road many populous and 
neat villages, and numerous tents belonging to the military work- 
men, which gave additional interest to a fertile and picturesque 
scenery. To the left was the river Volkhoff, on which Novgorod 
stands. The approach is grand, and the numerous spires and stee- 
ples of the churches and convents, with their gilded and silvered 
casements glittering in the sun, recalled for a moment the memory 
of its ancient splendour. I entered at two o'clock, and immediately 
waited on the governor. He would have provided me with cloth- 
ing on the instant; I was, however, hungry, and requested food. 



NOVGOROD. 47 

The governor smiled, but assented, and I then accepted a shirt and 
trowsers. 

I was recommended by his Excellency to stop at Novgorod a 
few days, under the promise that he would apprehend the robbers. 
I told him I felt no doubt they would be discovered; but, before that 
time, I should have reached the heart of Siberia. Good quarters 
were, mean time, provided me, in the habitation of a Russian 
merchant, to whom I had a letter of recommendation from St. 
Petersburg. He had also the kind consideration to provide me a 
complete refit; and though this must have been at au expense of 
thirty or forty roubles, he positively refused my offer of reimburse- 
ment — an offer I was enabled to make, through the delicate kind- 
ness of his Excellency the Governor Gerebzoff. 

This ancient and celebrated city, which in former days was 
characterized by the proverb, " Who can resist the Gods, and 
the great Novgorod?" is now only the capital of a province of its 
own name. In its former glory, it was the metropolis of a great 
Republic, with four hundred thousand souls within its walls. The 
population is now reduced to a fortieth part. Its immense trade 
had been gradually declining since the cruelties of Ivan Vassilich 
II. and was completely annihilated by the removal of the seat of 
government, by Peter the Great, from Moscow to the Gulf of 
Finland. Many handsome edifices, now in ruins, are lamentable 
proofs of its former grandeur, and present decay. Its Archiepis- 
copal Cathedral, small, but very ancient; is filled with supersti- 
tious relics, and the ashes of several Russian Grand Dukes. 

The steeples of Novgorod present a monument of considerable 
pride in the estimation of its inhabitants. Their distinction is in 
the cross, at the top, standing alone, unaccompanied by the cres- 
cent, and this is an emblem intimating, that the Tartars, in all 
their invasions, never succeeded so far, as to enter the city. Tim 



48 ZAITZ0VA. 

distinction universally holds in Russia : the re-conquered cities 
bearing the crescent, but surmounted by the cross. 

The following day, being that of Pentecost, I attended the ser- 
vice in the Cathedral; and though I understood nothing of the lan- 
guage, was forcibly struck with the primitive appearance of the 
clergy, in their long beards, longer tresses, and still longer robes. 
They certainly carried all the appearance of devout ministers of 
religion. 

I had intended, from Novgorod, a visit to Mr. Glenny, at his 
establishment, eight miles distant, on the banks of the Veshora. 
Not finding him, however, I put up at a farm-house for the night, 
having previously drunk kuass at a convent, paid a rouble for cha- 
rity, and received a blessing upon entering Muscovy — not with- 
out a hope that I should find better treatment here than in Estho- 
nia. Next day, passing over a wild dreary waste to Zaitzova, a 
pleasant town, of fifteen hundred inhabitants, I put up at a civil 
house, if the admission of both sexes and of all ranks and disposi- 
tions, may deserve such a term: the variety was indeed ludicrous 
enough, but the conduct and conversation not of a nature to be 
described. 

The women of Muscovy hitherto appear civil and cleanly dress- 
ed, though disfigured by the abominable custom of tying their 
breasts as low, flat, and tight, as possible. The men appear equally 
civil, obliging, and hospitable, but almost equally disguised, by 
their swaddling coat of cloth, or sheep skin, coloured trowsers, 
and immense boots, sash round the body, a wide rimmed hat, and 
long beard. This mode of dress certainly gives them something 
of a ferocious appearance. 

On the road to Yedrova, I received two roubles as charity from 
the master of a post-house, from whom also I had received refresh- 
ment gratis. I had declined the money, and, as I thought, with 



TORJOCK. 



40 



success, but on my arrival at the next station, found it in my cap: 
this is, indeed, real benevolence. 

The canals are observable to the east, and present a beautiful 
appearance from the neat town of Yedrova; reached Vishney-Vo- 
lotchok, late at night, a large scattered but flourishing town, for- 
merly an imperial village, but enfranchised by Catherine, with 
canals uniting the trades of the Caspian and Baltic seas. I had 
previously crossed the Valday hills, which are the only elevations 
between the two capitals. They are in the government of Nov- 
gorod, as is also the Valday lake, nine miles in circumference. It 
has an island in its centre, on which stands a handsome monas- 
tery, which, with its steeples glittering through the dark foliage of 
its intervening woods, forms a beautiful and interesting object. 
There is also a little town of the same name on its banks. The 
land here rises into gentle eminences, with a good deal of culti- 
vation. 

Torjock was the next flourishing town which I reached, amid 
rain and thunder. This slight impediment, which broke up my 
travelling for the day, richly compensated the delay, by introdu- 
cing me, first, to an excellent supper, gratis; and, secondly, to a 
beautiful and kind-hearted young widow, sister of the unfortunate 
Captain Golovnin, who was so inhumanly exposed in a cage at 
Japan. The master of the public-house had civilly received me, 
and I was enjoying my own meditations, when Mrs. Golovnin en- 
tered my room, accosting me in German, French, Russian, and ? 
lastly, in my native tongue. After the manner of her sex, she got 
all my secrets out of me,— but one, — and in return sent me some 
tea, proffering, at the same time, the assistance of her purse. Had 
she offered me her hand and heart, I certainly should have replied 
otherwise than I did, for I felt very affectionately towards so kind 
and lovely a woman, and who, although a widow, had yet scarcely 
passed her teens. Upon getting up in the morning, I discovered 
G 



* 



50 



TVER, 



that my knapsack had been searched, and my linen taken oat and 
washed, but not the smallest article was missing. 

1 refreshed myself at the fount (which is always at hand in a 
Russian cottage, with a tea-kettle or other spouted vessel hanging 
over it), breakfasted, and making my conge to the household-gods 
in the near corner of the room, departed from Torjock. I had 
not proceeded far, when I met a carriage, and immediately heard 
myself addressed in the English language, — " How do you do. 
Captain Cochrane?" On my acknowledging the name, the car- 
riage stopped, and the owner, who proved to be a Mr. Hippius, 
and had for some time been on the look out for me, treated me 
very heartily to a biscuit and glass of wine. I then wished him 
a pleasant journey and resumed mine, light as a lark at the unex- 
pected pleasure of seeing English faces, and hearing my owe 
tongue. 

My way lay over a country where the Tver is a wandering 
stream, and where numerous handsome seats and neat villages 
made their appearance. These, however, but too strongly remind- 
ed me of the effects of absenteeship in Ireland, being evidently in 
a rapid state of decay. I have no hesitation, however, in saying, 
that the condition of the peasantry here is far superior to that class 
in Ireland. In Russia, provisions are plentiful, good, and cheap; 
while in Ireland they are scanty, poor, and dear, the best part be- 
ing exported from the latter country, whilst the local impediments 
in the other render them not worth that expense. Good comforta- 
ble log-houses are here found in every village, immense droves of 
cattle are scattered over an unlimited pasture, and whole forests of 
fuel may be obtained for a trifle. With ordinary industry and 
economy, the Russian peasant may become rich, especially those 
of the villages situated between the capitals, both of which might 
be supplied by them with butter and cheese; whereas at present 
net a dairy exists, the peasantry contenting themselves with the 



TVER. 51 

culture of as much land, and the breeding of as many cattle, as 
may be sufficient for their immediate wants. The women I have 
always found engaged in some employment; they make very good 
coarse woollen cloths and linens, as well as knit stockings and 
spin thread. The whole work of the house is thrown upon them, 
while they also partake the labours of the field. I will not cer- 
tainly recommend, for the adoption of any civilized countries, the 
treatment they receive from their lordly masters. Having men- 
tioned Ireland in comparison with Russia, I may remark, that 
both countries may fairly vie with one another in the ancient sa- 
vage virtue of hospitality. 

Reached Tver the following day, and put up at the habitation 
of a long-bearded merchant; where, after enjoying a good supper 
and sound sleep, I employed myself in perambulating the city. It 
is said to contain fifteen thousand inhabitants, being considerably 
larger, or at least more populous, than Novgorod. Tver is situated 
at the junction of two small rivers, which empty themselves into 
the noble Volga, the latter hence taking an easterly course towards 
Nishney Novgorod, and fertilizing in its course to the Caspian, 
some of the finest provinces in the Russian empire. 

The first circumstance which attracted my notice upon reaching 
Tver, was at the gate, where an impost of three large stones is 
levied upon every horse that passes. These are converted to the 
paving of the city; nor will the tax appear either slight or useless 
in a country where stones are not very abundant. 

Crossing the river over a fine bridge of boats, I entered the 
principal part of the city. The public edifices on the banks of 
the Volga are handsome, and kept in good order, though the arch- 
bishop's palace resembles one of our workhouses. There is also a 
theatre, good barracks, and a beautiful building called (he Prince's 
Palace, rebuilt by Catherine. The cathedral is of plain stone; 
there are, besides, thirty-four churches and three convents, — two 



68 TVER. 

for men, and one for women; three hospitals are established upon 
a liberal plan, and a bazaar, with handsome piazzas, forms the city 
lounge. The public gardens and walks are certainly susceptible 
of improvement; but upon the whole, it has a clean and regular 
appearance, and bids fair, from its trade and situation, to become 
an important city. The government exports immense quantities 
of grain from hence to St. Petersburg, and two hundred barges 
were now lying off the city loaded with that article, and with seve- 
ral millions of eggs. 

A young Frenchman who had been five times wounded in the 
battle of Borodino!!! accompanied me in my rambles. He pre- 
fers, it seems, to remain here teaching his native language, rather 
than return to his native country. He murmured a little at the 
facility with which his scholars acquired the tongue; remarking 
also, what I believe is now generally acknowledged, the general 
aptitude of the Russian, whether in learning or teaching. I visit- 
ed, among other things, a canal, which the last of the independent 
princes projected and began, to shorten the communication, as 
well as to form a winter haven for the barges and other small craft, 
which were, and indeed are still, exposed to considerable danger 
from the ice in the Volga. A mile, only, is wanting to complete 
this great and useful undertaking, in the junction of the Tmak 
and Volga. Of the earth thrown out during the excavation, has 
been formed at once a good road, and a strong rampart to the city. 

It was at Tver that I first began to comprehend any thing of 
the Russian hierarchy. It appears that the Greek church admits 
of two distinct classes and degrees, which may be called monastic 
and lay orders: to the first of which belong metropolitans, arch 
bishops, bishops, archimandrites and egoomens or abbots; to the 
second, protopopes or deans, priests, archdeacons, deacons, clerks, 
and readers. Each provincial capital has an institution to which 
all the sons of the clergy are admissible, to study the principles of 



DAVID0VA. 53 

their theology, and moral philosophy, and are afterwards turned 
over to the general college, to complete their education, either for 
a military or an ecclesiastical life. If the former be adopted, they 
enter the army with the rank and pay of an officer; if the latter, 
they are ordained deacons. The obligation of marriage is imposed 
upon all those who are below the degree of an egoomen or abbot; 
and should the wives die before their ordination as priests, they 
are for ever precluded from that order. But if the wife of a priest 
dies, he may nevertheless become a dean, and if he afterwards en- 
ters a monastery he may arrive at the highest degree. Should, 
however, the theological disciple be determined upon a state of 
celibacy, he may at once enter the monastic order, and become 
possessed of the power of a priest, as well as of the highest de- 
gree, but he can never afterwards become a disciple of Hymen. 
The revenue of a metropolitan does not exceed eight hundred 
pounds a year, that of an archbishop six hundred, and of a bishop 
five hundred, — sums apparently as small as persons of their rank 
can possibly subsist upon, even in Russia. They are, however, 
allowed a considerable sum, which is paid to them annually, for 
the purposes of charity. 

On Monday, the 5th June, I quitted Tver for Moscow, passing 
sometimes along the banks of the Volga, at others over a rich 
grain country, amusing my mind alternately with the contempla- 
tion of the promising crops, and the thousands of loaded barges 
destined to bear them. Reached Davidova (thirty-two miles) at 
two o'clock, where I stopped to refresh, passing on my way a 
great number of pedestrian labourers, who, like the Galiegos of 
Spain, were travelling to the southward to assist the less populous 
districts in getting in the harvest. An amazing quantity of tim- 
ber was felled and felling on the road-side, merely for the pur- 
pose of keeping the road in repair; nearly the whole distance from 
Novgorod to Moscow being a wooden causeway. At eight in the 



54 Moscow. 

evening I continued my route, reaching Klinn at midnight, and 
Peski at four in the morning. The country had a pleasing ap- 
pearance, immense herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, with well- 
peopled villages, greeting the eye in every direction. I was sup- 
pled with plenty of black bread, milk, salt, and kuass, which I 
found very excellent fare. Passing through Tschornaya Graz, I 
entered Moscow at eight in the morning, the last stage being dis- 
tressingly fatiguing. Much rain fell, and I was not a little happy 
to reach the hospitable abode of Mr. Rowan in time to breakfast. 

The landscape on the approach to Moscow, from the Peters- 
burg side, gives no promise of so great a metropolis, it being over 
a dreary and desolate waste. Nor does the immense and ancient 
capital itself make its appearance until the traveller is within two 
miles of it; when, upon rounding a small low copse, sprinkled with 
a few genteel dwellings, hundreds of spires and steeples, domes and 
towers, flash upon the eye, — one vast assemblage of buildings ris- 
ing in the foreground, and only the uncultivated Sparrow-hills 
upon the right. 

After breakfast, I waited upon his excellency the governor-gen- 
eral, and arranged my papers so as to allow the resumption of 
my journey at leisure, and then perambulated the city. Among 
others, the great gun, in whose muzzle I sat upright, as well as 
the greater bell, bespoke my attention. 

I shall not enter upon the discussion of the many and strange 
stories of which this bell has been the subject; but on the asser- 
tion of the learned Dr. Clarke, that the Russian nation might as 
well attempt to suspend a three-decker, with all her apparel, 
tackling, &c. I would only observe, that no nation possesses bet- 
ter means for performing such a feat, nor has any nation made a 
better use of such means than Russia; they are, I should think, 
qualified to remove as large or as weighty a body as any other na- 
tion in Europe. The Russians, forty years ago, transported, from 



Moscow. 55 

the frontiers of Europe to the north-east of Asia, cannon, anchors, 
and other heavy articles, belonging to an expedition about to ex- 
plore the Icy Sea, and all went over land for a distance of about 
seven thousand miles. I have seen similar exertions in Canada, 
but by no means superior; and it must not be forgotten, that any 
thing can and will be done in Russia when the order is accompa- 
nied with those almighty words, " kacknee bouid" — which truly 
means, " any how," but is generally used in the sense of, " it 
must be done." 

It will not be supposed that I should omit to visit the Kremlin r 
which is still an extraordinary place. Although much of its sin- 
gular appearance has been obviated in the restored buildings, yet 
it is still far from regular. The view from the tower of St. John is 
still preserved, that building having withstood the fury of the gene- 
ral conflagration. The new imperial palace is wholly undeserv- 
ing the name; and only that a building is wanted upon the site on 
which it stands, would call loudly for another fire-brand. Of 
course I conformed to the general custom, in taking off my hat as 
I passed under the holy gate, and again on visiting the little chapel 
of Peter the Great. In every other respect than that of popula- 
tion, I found Moscow the same as in Clarke's time, beautiful and 
rich, grotesque and absurd, magnificent and mean. But besides 
these general features, there is, at present one, arising from latter 
circumstances, the city being only half built, and the streets half 
finished; and brick and mortar every where incommoding the pas- 
senger. Such is the appearance of Moscow, which is yet very 
surprising, considering how recently it has risen from its ashes. 

The former number of churches, chapels, and mosques ("the 
forty-forties) is now reduced to less than half the number. Of 
public and private hospitals, there are several. The most remark- 
able, is the Foundling, which escaped the fire — a noble, and well 
endowed edifice. The averaged number of infants received, one 



56 Moscow. 

year with another, is estimated at five or six thousand. Not more 
than two-thirds of these are understood to be reared. What, besides 
the ordinary dangers attendant on exposure, principally, of course, 
in the night, and in such a climate, may be the cause of this mor- 
tality, I know notj and it would be evidently foreign to my object 
to inquire; 

The hospitals of Count Sheremetoff and Prince Galitzin, are 
monuments of private beneficence and humanity. The former 
has two hundred and fifty patients within its walls, independent of 
out-door pensioners. Persons of all nations, and of both sexes, 
and with whatever disorders they may be afflicted, are admissible 
for cure; and the old, and infirm remain for life. A physician, 
surgeon, inspector, apothecary 6 and proper attendants, are settled 
on the establishments with handsome salaries and apartments. The 
buildings are spacious, and elegantly modern. The wards are 
small, containing but eight patients; a novel, though perhaps an 
improving feature in a medical establishment, as evidently tending 
to the diminution of contagion. The rooms are well ventilated. 
The revenue is one hundred and fifty thousand roubles, derived 
from the properly of eight thousand peasants, besides lands and vil- 
lages. The late Count is said to have founded the hospital, in: 
consideration of the Emperor's permission to marry one of his own 
female slaves. The present young Count deserves much credit, 
for having improved the rents, and extended the privileges of the 
hospital. — That belonging to Prince Galitzin is on a similar plan, 
although not quite so extensive. 

Moscow is said to stand upon more ground than any city in 
Europe, which may very well be true, as almost every palace or 
nobleman's house has a garden, and all wooden houses are detach- 
ed, from the fear of fire. The present population is reckoned at 
three hundred and fifty thousand souls. On the 30th of May I 
quitted Moscow, in a drosky, accompanied by Mr. Rowan, to dine 



VLADIMIR. 51 

with a Scotch gentleman, a Mr. Rogers, who manages the agri- 
cultural part of Count Romanzoff'e property, in the English style, 
which has been introduced with great success. We afterwards 
visited the beautiful botanical garden of Count Razumosky, called 
Gorinkay, which does infinite credit to the superintendance of Dr. 
Fischer. The number of its plants, thirteen thousand, would 
alone recommend it to the botanist, as will the buildings and plea- 
sure grounds to that of the inferior savans. Two more patriotic 
noblemen than these two do not exist. 

From my highland companion I received a pair of leather trow- 
sers, and parting with my amiable and universally beloved friend 
Mr. Rowan, commenced my journey on foot. Passed, at two 
miles, the magnificent chateau of a Prince Galitzin — (the great 
number of these princes must excuse my specification of them); 
after which, amid heavy rain and thunder, I passed through seve- 
ral small villages to Bouncova, lying in a well cultivated and pic- 
turesque country. I was greatly fatigued with twenty-five miles 
of heavy walk, and felt indeed a little melancholy. After a night ? s 
rest, however, I resumed with revived spirits, and reached Vos- 
puche. The country is interesting, and adorned with many resi- 
dences belonging to the lords of the village, but which are going 
to ruin as fast as time and .neglect can push them. To Uchekit- 
tinah is hill and dale, wood and water, all the way. I arrived at 
Vladimir in time to breakfast, travelling during the night to escape 
the heat of the sun. My way of life had evidently excited an in- 
terest in the peasantry among whom I passed, several of them di- 
viding their meals and sharing their fire and dwellings with me, 
with the most cordial good-will. 

I might nevertheless have considered myself fortunate if I could 
have reached Vladimir with only a sound drubbing instead of a 
broken head, merely because I could not ask in the Russian lan- 
guage for some kuass and fire to light my pipe. To prevent the 
H 



58 VLADIMIR. 

recurrence of this evil, on the next occasion I entered a house ? 
sans ceremonie, and helped myself. My hostess instantly dashed 
the cup into the street, and with the assistance of others of her 
sex drove me after it at the end of broomsticks, which were be- 
sides not spared upon my back. The odds were fearful against 
me; I was therefore content to bear my punishment without resis- 
tance. At the next place, a decent chop-house in Vladimir, I en- 
quired of a servant who spoke French, the character of my per- 
secutors, and learnt that most of those villages are inhabited by 
Raskolnicks or Schismatics, who have, in a manner withdrawn 
or separated from the Greek Church, and admit of even less tole- 
ration than the Church of Rome. They are bound by the rules 
of their religion, to deny food, fire, and water, and every assistance 
to all who are not of their own persuasion; and are even forbidden 
to hold any intercourse with them. Notwithstanding the repul- 
siveness of these tenets, they are said to gain many thousands of 
proselytes every year. They are considered good agriculturists, 
and of the most sober and industrious habits' never drinking ar- 
dent spirits, nor using tobacco. Among themselves they are a 
kind friendly people, and excellent fathers and husbands, but 
towards the rest of the world are — what I too certainly expe- 
rienced. 

Vladimir is a fine city on the banks of the Kliasma, the capital 
of a small province only, although formerly of all Ducal Russia. 
Its situation is beautiful, standing on a considerable eminence which 
overhangs the river, and commands a fine view of the surrounding 
country. There are still remaining many traces of its former great- 
ness, as the royal palace and gardens, a range of public offices, 
and several handsome churches. The day was hot, and I took 
advantage of it to wash and dry my linen, after which I lay down 
under the bridge, and enjoyed a sound sleep. In the evening I 
resumed my route towards Nishney Novgorod. 



POGOST. 59 

The road was a heavy one, and when I had passed seven versts, 
all signs of cultivation ceased. By midnight I reached Soudogda, 
and at two the next day, Morshok, over a low, sandy, and dreary 
country, covered with brush-wood, furnishing nothing but materials 
for crack ships. In the evening, at Dratchevo, my passports were 
demanded by two young men, whom I somewhat hastily set down 
as troublesome fellows, because no entreaties could induce them 
to allow my proceeding without my passport being inspected by 
the general of brigade. I was, however, more than a little asham- 
ed of my pertinacity, on being sent to a comfortable lodging, fol- 
lowed by a hot and substantial supper. In the morning I received 
a message to attend the general, with whom I breakfasted; and in 
consideration of having been detained all the night, which was my 
time of travelling, was favoured with a vehicle as far as Mourom. 
This is the principal, rendezvous of the Mordva Tartars, bearing 
the name of a city, but undeserving of that of village, being a vast 
assemblage of unsociable huts, with six or seven churches. Its si- 
tuation, on the Oka, is the only thing in its favour. 

Having hired a canoe, I paddled across the river, and following 
a dreary and marshy country, reached Manacovo. At a pretty 
little village on the banks of a lake, at midnight, I was greatly 
charmed with the singing of some boys and girls, accompanied by 
a simple instrument, called, in Russian, baalaalaika, and which is 
in fact only a two-stringed guitar. The effect of this rude har- 
mony, softened by its passage across the water, was peculiarly 
sweet. 

The beauty of the night prompted me to continue my route, and 
I left the happy villagers for Pogost, twenty-four miles, where I 
arrived half famished and quite fatigued, not having tasted food 
during twenty-four hours, and a march of forty miles. I had, how- 
ever, drunk abundantly, perhaps incautiously, of water. The 
country was level and fertile, well wooded, and somewhat pretty 



60 NISHNEY NOVGOROD. 

in its scenery. Nor is the town of Pogost by any means an ill 
built one; its annual fair had just terminated, and I could not help 
smiling at the remnant of saleable articles, consisting of horses, 
carts, wheels, saddlery, and, in short, every constituent and requi- 
site for ordinary vehicles, besides an abundance of common earthen- 
ware; rope; with kuass and bread to refresh the sober, and barrels 
of spirit to stupify the drunkard — of which, indeed, there was no 
scarcity, either of men or women. 

Being too jaded to proceed farther, I thought myself fortunate 
in being able to pass the night in a cask. Arrived at Paulovo, 
distant fourteen miles, over a cross road, and a beautiful as well 
as fertile valley, studded with villages, in the midst of which the 
Oka makes its course. 

Paulovo is placed in a bay on the left bank of the Oka, which 
is crowded with small vessels. It is said to contain eight thousand 
workmen, and is the private property of General Sheremetioff, the 
head of which family, a minor, is possessed of one hundred and 
sixty thousand peasants. The general's property is however a vile 
dirty place, but the surrounding country, and the view of it from 
the palace, is very fine. 

I had not an opportunity of viewing the immense iron-works 
here carried on, being anxious to get on towards Nishney Novgo- 
rod, which I entered on the evening of the next day. I had pre- 
viously passed through Selo-Bogorodskoye, where I underwent a 
second lecture for smoking in the village. The elder of the village 
spared me, doubtless, however, on the same grounds as had excused 
me on a previous occasion. The country appeared extremely po- 
pulous, and I felt highly pleased with my walk on the elevated 
banks of the Oka, and in witnessing its numerous establishments 
of tanners and dyers, with such extensive iron-works, that the 
neighbourhood of Paulovo has been justly termed the Birmingham 
of Eussia. 



NISHNEY NOVGOROD. 61 

The entrance to Nishney Novgorod is execrable, from the ex- 
treme filthiness of the suburbs; but descending a steep hill, I found 
myself in a busy and crowded market, where I procured a droshky, 
and proceeded to the dwelling of Baron Bode, to whom I carried 
a recommendatory letter. He received me kindly, placing me for 
board and lodging in his own house. The city is large, scattered, 
and somewhat ill built, but evidently improving. This is evinced 
by the number of new buildings which have been erected, in con- 
sequence of the celebrated fair called Makarieff being transplanted 
hither. The upper part of the city, in which the governor, chief 
officers, and military reside, is of course the best. Its situation is 
peculiarly pleasant and airy, though surrounded by the stubborn 
remains of the old citadel and Tartar wall. The lower town, 
which may be termed the St. Giles's of the city, is occupied prin- 
cipally by persons engaged in merchandize. 

Nishney Novgorod, in contradistinction to Great Novgorod, owes 
its existence to the great duke Vassil, who thus named it when he 
caused its inhabitants to be transplanted there from the great city 
before named. Its inhabitants, Russians and Tartars, amount to 
fifteen or sixteen thousand, though its visitors during the fair pro- 
bably make its population at that time from one hundred and twenty 
to one hundred and fifty thousand. Among them may be seen 
Chinese, Persians, Circassians, Armenians, Tartars, Buchanans, 
Jews (of course), and a specimen besides of almost every European 
nation. The fair, in point of value, is considered as second to 
none in Europe, the business done being estimated at nearly two 
hundred millions of roubles. This computation may probably al- 
low a deduction of about one-half, but in any case the government 
derives from it a considerable revenue. The buildings on the site 
for the fair are in a forward state, but will still require many years, 
and several millions of money, to complete. The situation is con- 



62 NISHNEY NOVGOROD. 

sidered highly eligible, and the plan is by General Betancourt, an 
eminent Spanish engineer. 

The eligibility of the new site is, notwithstanding, fairly ques- 
tionable, as it is not entirely removed from the danger of an inun- 
dation by the Oka, from the river giving indications, at no distant 
period, of shifting its channel, in which case the consequences 
must be fatal. A canal has recently been cut so as to make this 
part an island, instead of a peninsula as before, — a measure which, 
in my opinion, contributes to weaken the foundation, because the 
canal lies stream ward of the fair, and consequently, at the rises or 
freshes of the river, is liable to be completely overflowed. When 
it is recollected that the last overflowing of the Volga formed a 
new bank of seven feet high above the common bed of the river 
between the city and the fair, it is not too much to fear that it may 
serve to change the course of the river, whose extra rise was last 
year thirty-five feet. And should the new formed bank prove a 
solid foundation, and resist for some years the impetuosity of the 
stream, there will then be no other outlet but the very site of the 
fair, as it stands nearly opposite to the place where the Oka dis- 
charges its waters into the Volga. Many people think, and, it ap- 
pears to me, reasonably, that lower down the Volga, as at Kazan 
or Bokorotsk, were more eligible places for the fa ; r, when its re- 
moval became indispensable. 

Nishney Novgorod is, however, too near St. Petersburg, and too 
far from Persia, Astrachan, Bucharia, and China, to be conveni- 
ently reached in one season, because the latter journeys are against, 
while the former is with, the stream. Had Kazan or Bokorotsk 
been selected, the voyage would have been more nearly equalized, 
both in time and expense. 

I was shewn over the fair by a Spanish gentleman, now an offi- 
cer of engineers of Russia, and with whose family in Granada I 
had lately resided. He is married to the daughter of General 



NISHNEY NOVGOROD. 63 

Betancourt, chief of his department. I dined with him and two 
other Spanish colonels, as well as a young Muscovy Englishman, 
the whole parly even here, in the very heart of Russia, talking only 
the Spanish language. 

His Excellency the Governor receivedme with customary at- 
tention, but I was not so fortunate as to meet his amiable lady, an 
Englishwoman. The truth was, her servant would not admit 
me, judging, no doubt, from the length of my beard and shabbi- 
ness of my dress, that I must be a Jew, or something worse, 
Thus denied, I embarked, in a freak of fancy, on board a lighter 
bound to Kazan, the better to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the 
Volga; having previously, and only just in time, been supplied 
with provisions, and a pair of English shooting shoes, through ih^ 
kindness of my excellent host Baron Bode. 



64 



CHAPTER IV. 

The Volga — Makarieff— Kusmodemiansk — Chebacksar — Vutchi — Kazan-**- 
Perm — Koung-oor — Soucksoum, Dertiidoff's Zavod — Achitskaya Krepost 
— Krasnooufinsk — Belimbaiefsky Zavod — Ekatherinebourg — Berezofsky 
— Kamishloff— Tumen — Tobolsk. 

I am now on the magnificent Volga. The lighter on board 
which I had embarked did not depart for thirty six hours, and I 
felt too much of the sailor in me to quit her: in short, I considered 
myself as one of the crew, working my passage, and as such em- 
ployed myself. Nothing was demanded of me but to row the 
boat ashore for the captain, and now and then a glass of vodkey. 
This I was content to submit to, till I found that some grog and 
more tobacco, was followed by the demand of still more grog, 
which my purse could very ill bear. I was therefore very well 
pleased when the anchor was weighed, and we descended the 
stream; but so slow was our progress, that we kept the heights of 
Novgorod in sight for two days, being frequently obliged to an- 
chor, with the ever dunning sound of " Vodkey-Batiushka," or 
gin, master. The vessel I was in measured about two hundred 
and fifty tons, perfectly flat bottomed, and drawing but five feet 
water. At length, losing sight of Nishney Novgorod, we passed 
many islands and villages, the latter always on the right bank, 
and on the left an uninterrupted low moorish heath. The strength 
of the current I calculated at two knots and a half. 

The variety and singular appearance of the different craft on 
the Volga, not a little surprised and amused me, as well as the in- 



MAKARIEFF. 65 

numerable different ways in which they were propelled. The 
present season of the year, that immediately preceding the fair, is 
the best for the navigation of the Volga, when barks from one 
thousand tons to the size of a canoe, all promiscuously float toge- 
ther. They are generally provided with one mast, which, in the 
largest, may equal a frigate's main-mast. The weight of the mat- 
sail must be prodigious, having no fewer than a hundred and sixty 
breadths in it; and yet the facility with which it is managed will 
bear comparison with that of the Yankies, with their boom main 
sail in the fore and aft clippers. They are generally worked by 
from fifteen to forty people. The rudder is a ponderous machine, 
in many cases suspended from the stern post, and yet towing astern 
twelve and fifteen feet; the tillers of which I have ascertained from 
measurement to be from thirty to forty feet long, and all worked by 
the hand. 

The soil on either side is clay and chalk, and the wood fir and 
birch. The inhabitants of the villages are the inoffensive and ig- 
norant Fins, a race of people more approximating to the character 
of the Gallegos in Lisbon, than any other class of people I have 
seen. Their great content, and small possessions, are in both a 
prominent feature. We reached Makarieff, after a tedious and 
vexatious voyage, vexatious from the annoyance of the horse-flies 
and musquitoes. I was fairly put to the alternative, whether, dur- 
ing my sleep, I would be suffocated or devoured. I preferred the 
former, as smacking more of humanity, wrapping myself up close 
in a spare sail, with three others of the crew. 

Makarieff is the first inhabited spot, from Nishney Novgorod, on 
the left bank of the Volga; a straggling, and ill built place, al- 
though a large monastery at one extremity, appears to strive hard 
to acquire for it an appearance of respectability. The great fair, 
which is now held at Nishney Novgorod, was formerly held here; 
but was removed on the destruction of its site by fire, wilfully, as 
I 



66 CHEBACKSAR. 

is supposed. Many vessels, loaded with tallow, hides, and iron, 
were then lying off it wind bound, rather than work up between 
the numerous islands, shoals, and sand banks, between this place 
and Novgorod. I remarked with pleasure, the knowledge these 
otherwise ignorant fellows have of the power of the rudder, per- 
forming all the close shades, like a fleet of colliers, in the Thames. 

At Makarieff I noticed the utmost height to which the Volga had 
rken last season — being eighteen feet perpendicular height, at one 
hundred and fifty feet distance from the nearest edge of the river, 
which is still going down. Having remained at anchor two days, 
and paid toll at a place called Vasilisomski, which is a sort of 
sound, where loaded vessels pay one and a half, and those in bal- 
last one rouble — (no slight sinecure) — we departed with a fresh 
and favourable gale, passing fleets of vessels, at anchor and under 
sail. If the trade of the place were to be computed from the 
number of vessels, without respect to their value, the Volga would 
indeed be a second Thames. 

We soon reached Kusmodemiansk, a large, and populous town, 
on the right bank of the river, with four neat churches, pleasantly 
situated at the base and extremity of that chain of lofty hills, 
which rise in succession from Nishney Novgorod, and here ab- 
ruptly terminate. The left bank of the river still preserved its 
desolate and unhealthy appearance. The next halting place was 
Chebacksar, where the river is very shallow, and enc'umbered 
with shifting banks; and here we were again detained by foul 
winds, as well as the negligence or laziness of the crew, till J 
began to feel tired of my aquatic excursion, the river offering so 
very little worthy of notice. I would fain have pursued my route 
by land, but was prevented by my bag of copper money, which, 
although its value was not a guinea, was, at least, sixty pounds 
weight. Leaving it was, of course, totally out of the question: I 
bad, therefore, no remedy but patience. 



VUTCHI. 67 

At Chebacksar I again laid in a stock of provisions, conforma- 
bly to agreement. It consisted of barley, rye, flour, with oil, and 
black bread. I had hitherto messed with the crew, whose diet 
was wholesome, although rather new to me, consisting of the above 
flour, boiled, and stewed down with water and oil. He who likes 
burgoo, must relish casha; and it was with extreme pleasure that 
I received the spoon in my hand, in my proper turn, to partake (} 
this humble fare. This we did three times a day, and I had the 
happy consciousness of its perfect cleanliness, as I myself stood 
rook. Provisions, in general, may be here considered cheap; 
bread, a halfpenny per pound; beer, a halfpenny per bottle; eggs, 
three pence per dozen; and milk, a farthing per bottle. Animal 
food I know nothing about, not having bought any. 

Passed the village of Vutchi, placed between two elevated table- 
hills. A monastery, with four churches, flanked with a thick 
forest of ever-greens, give it a pleasing appearance. A boat came 
alongside from the monastery, with a poor-box, into which 1 put 
two pence, no small sum in this part of the world. Upon reach- 
ing the little hamlet of Kushuga, our crew quitted us, with bag and 
baggage, two long bearded gentlemen, taking charge of the craft 
to Kazan; a trifling incident, but which powerfully reminded me 
of the necessity of impressment. We were now anxiously looking 
out for Kazan, and the distant countries became more elevated 
and wooded with lofty oaks. Siviatski, with its remnant of an 
old stone casile, was the last interesting spot I observed, before I 
reached Kazan. The left bank of the river, except at the single 
town of MakariefF, is one universal waste. From the Volga to 
the city, is about three miles of low flat, and this I walked on 
Tuesday the 22d of June, and the 12th day from Novgorod, being 
about the same time that I should have taken in going by land. 

This celebrated city, on nearing it from the westward, greatly 
resembles Badajos. The extended view, the river in front, the 



68 



KAZAN. 



fortress on the left, and the distant elevated lands to the south 
ward. The dirty suburbs, situate on a marshy swamp, the prin- 
cipal resideace of the Tartar inhabitants, is the next indication of 
Kazan; the last was after crossing the Kazanka, when the noblest 
part of this noble city fronts you in full view. I passed on to the 
hospitable abode of the learned professor Fuchs. 

The extensive province of Kazan is watered by the noble Volga 
and beautiful Kama. Its population is reckoned at nine hundred 
thousand, composed of Tartars, Fins, Votiaki, Tchuvoshi, and 
Russians, and a few Mordvas. Near five hundred thousand of 
these inhabitants are peasants or slaves, four-fifths of whom be- 
long to the crown, and the rest to the different nobility of Kazan. 
The trade of the province is said to be great, exporting vast quan- 
tities of tanned and untanned leather, besides about two hundred 
and fifty thousand poods [36 lbs. English] of soap, made from the 
fat of the Astrachan seals. Potash is also a thriving concern, 
The gold and silver embroidery of boots, shoes, slippers, bonnets, 
&c. employ a great number of people. The province is low and 
wet, and to its acknowledged unhealthiness the impurity of the 
water greatly contributes. The greatest heat is 29°, and the 
greatest cold 33° of Reaumur's scale. The Volga is navigable 
about two hundred days in the year. The province is in general 
well cultivated, and exports prodigious quantities of corn to the 
capitalists. The revenue is estimated at sixteen millions of rou- 
bles [or about 700,000/., a rouble being lOd. of our money]; and 
of these, spirits alone furnish four millions, the consumption of 
which, in the city only, on a feast day, is said to amount to the 
value of five thousand roubles, and on ordinary days to about fifteen 
hundred. 

The city of Kazan is considered as second only to the capital, 
containing nearly forty thousand inhabitants, of which twelve 
thousand are Tartars. On the present state of the city, it is hardly 



KAZAN. 69 

fair to give an opinion, rising as it is from the ashes of a fire scarcely 
five years extinguished. It had formerly a cathedral on the site 
of the ancient mosque, as also a palace; both were destroyed by 
an explosion in the citadel. The destruction of the city was in- 
deed nearly complete, and it is difficult to conceive how any ves- 
tige could remain, a high wind driving a mass of flame over houses 
built, and streets absolutely paved with wood. These wooden 
buildings and pavements have been discountenanced by the Em- 
peror, who has held out many inducements to build with brick. 
The city is the seat of an university and archbishop, and has se- 
veral handsome churches, four of which belong to the Raskolnicks, 
many Tartar mosques, and seven convents. The church of St. 
Peter and St. Paul is a handsome stone edifice, erected at the ex- 
pense of a private gentleman in honour of Peter the Great, in con- 
sideration of that monarch's having made his residence a halting- 
place during one of his journeys. In Kazan also is a church, 
which gave rise to that beautiful building, the Kazan church, at 
Saint Petersburg, though its architecture would seem to denote a 
theatre. I dined with her eminence the abbess, for so she is styled. 
She had the benevolence to present me with an image of their 
saint, which was to act as a charm against otherwise inevitable 
mischief. I accepted it, of course, with due reverence, without 
any strong faith in its boasted virtues, — an estimate, which, it will 
be seen by experience, was fully vindicated. The lady, the origi- 
nal of this image, lives twelve miles from Kazan, to which, how- 
ever, she makes an annual visit, and collects, from the credulity 
of her believers, sufficient to support her the ensuing year. 

I visited the Hotel des Nobles, a club formed of the nobility, 
fifteen or twenty of whom daily dine there, independent of casual 
travellers, who have free access upon moderate terms. A friendly 
sort of intercourse is thus kept up, and the news of the day ema- 
nates from the club, in a manner which the servile press dare not 



70 KAZAN. 

attempt. Billiards and cards are the set amusements of the club ? 
it being a custom of Russian idlers to play boston before and after 
dinner. They then retire to business, or to sleep, meeting again 
in the evening to repeat the entertainment over a cup of tea. 
Among the numerous individuals here from whom I have received 
marked attention, I should specially notice the governor and vice- 
( governor; the prince DavidofT, director of the post; and prince 
TenisherT, general in the army, and head of a military commission, 
not forgetting my friend the professor. Both the princes are of 
Tartar origin, though their character and conduct would do honour 
to the proudest rank of polished society. I attended a fete given 
by the latter prince at his villa, seventeen versts from the city. If 
the learned Dr. Clarke had been living and present, he would 
have found, in the delicacy and decorum every where prevalent, 
a strong proof that a Russian country-house is not now, at least, 
such as he has described it. 

A Russian prince, count, or baron, descended from a Russian 
family, is always a nobleman, without any military, civil, or ho- 
norary distinction. But no person of those ranks, whose origin 
has been Tartar, Asiatic, or foreign, has any claim whatever to 
nobility, beyond the other free individuals of the empire; the title 
is indeed hereditary, and descends in the same wholesale manner 
as in Germany, but it gives no rank of privilege whatever. With- 
out the addition of military or civil rank, title is rather a disad- 
vantage to the possessor, as the empire expects from every man 
of respectability a three years' service in the army, navy, or civil 
departments. After this, he may retire with credit; yet, so salu- 
tary is the effect of this custom, that the retirement of an officer is 
of extremely rare occurrence. In case, however, of any change 
of inclination, they are permitted, with certain limitations, to vary 
the nature of the service: thus, an officer of the navy may change 
to the army or civil department — an officer of the army to the 



PERM. 71 

civil department, but not to the navy; but, an officer of the civil 
service can not exchange into either army or navy; — thus, form- 
ing a strong inducement to them to commence, at least, with the 
profession of arms. 

A prince is not, from that circumstance, a nobleman, though an 
officer, of whatever rank, is: and by his becoming a major in the 
army, or captain of the navy, he entails upon his children, without 
limit, the rank of nobility. The rank of women in Russia is fixed, 
like their condition, for better or worse, according to that of their 
husbands. If a woman not noble marries a slave, she degrades 
herself to his condition; while a woman slave, becoming united to 
a freeman, becomes free. But in Russia, every thing is at the dis- 
posal of the Emperor: titles, privileges, rank and fortune, are re- 
gulated by his will. And formerly, when it was no uncommon 
thing for an Emperor to give the benefit of a Siberian air to mi- 
nisters, counts, and other dignataries of the empire, it was not un- 
usual to accompany the seclusion with the loss of honours, heredi- 
tary rank, of fortune, and even of the very name. The latter 
circumstance never indeed took place but when the person was 
charged with a crime. But this arbitrary exercise of power has 
certainly not occurred during the present emperor's reign, nor 
would the exercise of such a prerogative be tolerated for any length 
of time. 

The governor of Kazan was good enough to make up a part of 
my lost time, by giving me a lift towards Perm, and oo the 25tli 
of June, I departed in a kibitka, taking a last view of the city from 
Tzaritzino. Crossed the Kama, which enters the Volga at forty 
miles below Kazan. The road had been very fine, and the coun- 
try fertile in corn and flax, the principal productions. The 
appearance of the crops was good, and the preparations for the har- 
vest cast a lively and agreeable feature upon the journey. I over- 
took great numbers of men and boys returning to their homes. 



72 PERM. 

having carried vessels down the Kama, and thence into the Volga. 
The country on the east side of the Kama becomes wild and dreary, 
through forests of fir, birch, and poplars. The weather was sultry, 
and the mosquitoes troublesome; and there was nothing to delight 
the eye or interest the feelings, except the numerous Tartar vil- 
lages, which lie scattered at every live or six miles distance. Many 
of the Viatka race, a handsome people, are in the neighbourhood. 
Although I had ceased for the present to be a pedestrian, I did not, 
from whatever cause, receive so great civility as I had been accus- 
tomed to. 

On the 4th day I entered Perm, thoroughly fatigued with the 
jolting of the kibitka, although the road was very fine, lying inva- 
riably through thick woods, with but two towns, and most unpre- 
possessing villages, all the way from Kazan. 

Having delivered a letter to the Director of the Post, who un- 
derstood nothing but Russian, he recommended me to the care and 
attention of a Mr. Berg, formerly a Lieutenant in the Russian navy, 
now an author, and a rich man — advantages which seldom accom- 
pany each other. His knowledge of the English language, as well 
as his hospitality and urbanity, made his company highly valuable. 
He had made the tour of the world with Commodore Kruzenstern, 
and was consequently able to give me a great deal of useful infor- 
mation. 

Perm is the capital of a Province, and a considerable city, built 
by the Empress Catherine, at the time that great princess increased 
the number of governments from fourteen to forty-seven; convinced 
that a due administration of justice could not take place, where 
the governments are so extensive. The city stands on the right 
bank of the Kama, covered on three sides by a thick forest whose 
trees reach to the very gates of the city. It is regularly and hand- 
somely built, and contains about eight thousand inhabitants; the 
whole province numbers eight hundred thousand, consisting of 



PERM. <>> 

Russians, Bashkires, Tcheremiss, Teptery and Vaugoles. The 
Basbkires, a numerous race, are said to be descendents of the Tar- 
tars, who inhabited the district between the Don, the Volga, and 
the Ural mountains, and are probably of the same family with the 
Tartars of Kazan. They were originally wanderers, but since 
their subjection to Russia, have applied themselves to agriculture, 
and the breeding of cattle, especially of horses. These they have 
learnt to manage with facility, and even with grace; and yet, even 
this has not destroyed that, perhaps, most savage of their original 
habits, the feeding upon their carcases. 

Their character is worse than indifferent, being lazy, and tyran- 
nical towards their wives, to whose care, nevertheless, they owe 
every thing. They are handsome both in form and features, and 
are fond of medals and fanciful ornaments, or dresses. Both sexes 
dress nearly alike, in large trowsers, and a loose gown, fastened 
Found the waist, with a silk sash. Their heads are usually shav- 
ed, and covered with a cap decorated with embroidery; as are like- 
wise their boots. There is but one public school in Perm, and 
that of small repute, and the state of society, and of education, ia 
general are at a low ebb; yet Perm is a thriving place, being rich 
in its provincial exports, which from the local situation must all 
go through the capital. 

The export of iron is said to equal five millions of poods, which, 
with six millions of poods of salt, seventy thousand poods of cop- 
per, seventeen of gold, and two millions and a half of coined rou- 
bles from Ekatherinebourg, form no bad criterion for estimating 
the riches of the government. Perm yields a gross reveuue of 
ten millions of roubles, which, on a deduction of seven for its ex- 
penses, leaves a net revenue of three millions, exactly equalling 
the copper money and gold collected from the sands of Ekathe- 
rinebourg. The soil is in general good; corn is both cheap and 
abundant, being exported in great quantities. The face of the 
K 



74 SOUKSOUM DEMIDOFP'S IRON-WORKS. 

country is generally level, till nearing the Siberian frontiers, at 
the base of the Ural mountains, which separate Europe from Asia. 
The importance of these mountains seems to be little felt or un- 
derstood by the Russian government, though there can be no 
doubt of their containing sources of wealth all but inexhaustible. 

I left Perm on the 8th of July, on one of the finest roads 
in the world. At three miles I passed an exceedingly fertile spot, 
beautifully reflected from the dark woods, which skirt it even to 
the horizon. Before reaching the first station, I had passed five 
villages in a delightful walk, the beauty of which did not after- 
wards diminish, while the Kama seemed to travel by my side. 
The road is good, as far as Koungoor, and the country fertile, 
with hills traversing it in all directions. The valleys are filled 
with villages, nursed in the bosom of peace, and fed with the 
abundance of plenty, of which blessings they are not, from their 
iocal situation, likely to be soon deprived. 

Koungoor, formerly the capital of several provinces, has now 
little or nothing to boast of besides the beauty of its situation. 
After dinner I reached Sabarsk, a village, eighteen miles, where 
I put up for the night. It lies in a well wooded country, and 
whose lands are economised and attended to in a manner worthy 
of the disciples of Englishmen. Koungoor appears to me to be 
an elevated level; for I consider that the grand base of the Ural 
mountains commences from Perm. 

From Koungoor I reached Souksoum, Demidoff's Zavod, viz. 
iron-works, a large, long, but busy place, on the borders of a 
lake, where is a considerable iron manufactory, as well as distil- 
ery. The situation is in a deep hollow, surrounded by thickly 
clad hills of fir. Unlike the people of Kazan, I found the inhabi- 
tants a churlish race; but being in good health and spirits, I took 
little heed, simply shewing my passport and open order to the 
police as a hint for proper treatment. The elder of the village 



ACHITSKAYA KREPOST, 75 

and I were, however, sure to be good friends; so long as milk, 
black bread, and kuass, with sometimes soup were to be purchas- 
ed. To these were added, a glass of cordial at the kabak or gin- 
shop, procured gratis by an order from the farmer- general, and 
which latter I divided with my friend. 

As I approached the frontiers of Siberia I began to give way to 
groundless though perhaps natural apprehensions; and indeed as 
I neared such a scene of cruelty and misery I became completely 
agitated.. Hitherto Providence had protected me, but although I 
felt thankful for the past, I could not but be concerned for the fu- 
ture, reasonably doubting how, where, and when my pilgrimage- 
would end. 

Pursuing my route, I reached the sixth station, charmed with 
the beauty of the surrounding scenery. And if I might judge of 
the number of its inhabitants by the quantity of cultivated land, 
I should say it was one of the most populous, as well as finest 
spots I had ever seen. Achitskaya Krepost was the next large 
village with a good post-house. Hence the road turns off to the 
south, to the summit of a range of hills, which commanded an ex- 
tensive prospect of a lovely scene, to which a slight fall of rain 
had given increased freshness, brilliancy, and beauty. I passed 
a large unemployed distillery, the property of the government, as 
indeed are all others on this side the Ural mountains, the go- 
vernment having monopolized the sale of spirits throughout tha 
European dominions. If the mere increase of the public revenue 
may warrant such a measure, there can no more be said. But what- 
ever may be the direct benefit to the treasury of carrying on busi- 
ness to the amount of thirty millions of roubles per annum, its mis- 
chievous tendency in enriching a few individuals at the expense 
of as many thousands, is incalculable. By farming the distille- 
ries, a system of plunder is practically encouraged, while the losers 
in the long run are the poor peasantry, who receive a trash of spirit,. 



76 KRASNOOITFINSK. 

far below the proof, it being to my knowledge doubly and (rebly 
watered: nor can the retailers of such stuff get back their money 
in any other manner. 

The situation of a vice-governor thus becomes one of the great- 
est value, receiving in some instances half a million of roubles, or 
upwards of twenty thousand pounds sterling, a-year. Two direct 
means of a governor's enriching himself are, the per centage upon 
every vedro or anker of spirits sold in the province, and a certain 
sum paid by the retailers for their licenses. By these alone, a 
vice-governor may put into his own pocket not less than four hun- 
dred thousand roubles, It is the duty of a vice-governor to visit 
the different distilleries and kabacks, or gin-shops, to ascertain 
whether the spirits be adulterated: having already received his bribe 
from the farmer-general of the province, he of course finds no fault. 
The latter of these gentlemen then makes his own visit, to exam- 
ine whether the retailers have not still more adulterated it than 
was allowed in the first instance: the affirmative is a matter of 
course, but on a division of the spoils, no fault is found. Lastly, 
comes the secretary or clerk of the farmer-general, who finds the 
spirit still further adulterated, and who having in his hands the 
power of punishment, even to the withdrawing of the license, be- 
comes a participator of the last spoils. To make up these im- 
mense subductions, another and another portion of water is added 
to the spirit, all of which is valued to the poor peasant as genuine. 
The oppression, before heavy enough, is thus doubled upon him, 
as the weaker the spirit, the more he finds it necessary to consume. 
This system of robbery is mainly owing to the palpably inefficient 
provision made by the government for officers of all ranks, who 
are thus tempted by indirect means to seek a compensation for 
their services. 

Krasnooufinsk, which I reached next, is situated in a fertile val- 
ley at the foot of two peaked mountains. It is a scattered and 



BELIMBAIEFSKY ZAVOD. 77 

iii-built place, but in a fine productive country, and from the top 
of the mountains commands an extensive view of the river Ufa, 
meandering from one side of the horizon to the other, but gene- 
rally immersed in one continuous fog. The town is frequently- 
overflowed, and thence, doubtless, is considered unhealthy. The 
establishment, is new, for the old ostrog, or advanced fortress, is 
still kept up, to oppose any possible incursion of their southern 
neighbours. 

A deputation of the inhabitants waited upon me, to request I 
would remain a couple of days, to be present at a dinner to be 
given in honour of the first Englishman who had visited the place. 
I felt the compliment, nationally, but thought best to decline it, as 
perfectly unmerited by the individual, and returned to Achitskaya 
Krepost. Thence to Bisserskaya Krepost, over eighteen miles of 
uncultivated country, afler which I gently ascended a considerable 
elevation into the bosom of the Ural mountains, where not a ves- 
tige of cultivation exists besides young firs and birch. The air 
was exceedingly cold on the summit. At noon I stopped at the 
last European station, called Kirgishantsky Krepost, and at the 
last European residence, where I dined. The good people had 
resolved I should not leave this paramount quarter of the globe 
with any trace of dissatisfaction, and young children continually 
presented me with wild strawberries and cream: the strawberries 
were of an excellent flavour, and it is the custom of these poor 
people to present the traveller with such fruit during the season. 
I received the present, standing with one foot in Asia and the other 
in Europe, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains, covered, 
however, with nothing but brush wood. 

In the evening I reached the first station in Asia, called Gro- 
borskoy, a post-town, and next day, with a stout heart, descended 
the Siberian part of the Ural chain, to Belimbaiefsky Zavod, or 
Iron Foundry, on the banks of the Tschusova, where there arc 



78 ekatherinebourg. 

many handsome buildings. Early the ensuing morning I reached 
Ekatherinebourg, having passed in safety the mighty barriers which 
divide Europe from Asia. The ascent and descent are so nearly 
imperceptible, that were it not for the precipitous banks every 
where to be seen, the traveller would hardly suppose he had cross- 
ed a range of hills. As far as this frontier town of Siberia, I had 
travelled through one continued forest of pine-trees, and for twenty 
miles nothing met the eye but fire-wood, grown for the use of the 
Imperial fabricks. 

On reaching the Asiatic side of the Ural chain, I could not help 
remarking that the inhabitants of all the villages were much 
more civil, more hospitable, and more cleanly dressed; and in no 
one instance would they accept of money for the food I had occa- 
sion to procure. I never entered a cottage, but shlshee (a cab- 
bage soup), with meat, milk and bread, were immediately placed 
before me unasked; nor could any entreaty of mine induce them 
lo receive a higher reward than a pipe of tobacco, or a glass of 
vodka (whisky). In short, to prevent uselessly troubling the in- 
habitants, I was obliged to consign my nearly exhausted purse 
to the care of my knapsack, renouncing the hacknied and unso- 
cial custom of paying for food. 

Among other proofs of their civility, or rather of the interest 
which Russians take in foreigners, as well as the means they have 
of making themselves understood, one very strong one occurred 
to me in a small village. I Had learnt so much of the language, 
as to know that kchorosho is the Russian word for well, but not 
that kchudo was the translation for bad. My host being a good 
sort of a blunt fellow, was discoursing upon the impropriety of 
travelling as I did. As I could not comprehend him, I was im- 
patient to go, but he persisted in detaining me till he had made 
me understand the meaning of kchudo. My extreme stupidity 
offered a powerful barrier to his design; but a smart slap on one 



EKATHERINEBOURG. 79 

cheek, and a kiss on the other, followed by the words kchudo and 
kchorosho soon cured my dulness, and I laughed heartily in spite 
of this mode of instruction. 

Ekatherinebourg is the key of Siberia, and hence, a post at 
which passports are most rigorously examined. Yet on making 
known my intention to stop at the house of a Mr. Major, an Eng- 
lishman, and an officer in the College of Mines, I was not only 
permitted to pass, but, in Mr. Major's absence, another lodging 
was procured me. This was in the dwelling of a Mr. Mohr, a 
low plodding German, of whom there are too many in Ekathe- 
rinebourg. It is a well built city, founded by Catherine, near the 
source of the Iset, containing fifteen thousand inhabitants. There 
is a large fabric belonging to the Emperor, for polishing and pre- 
paring vases, urns, slabs, and the like, as well as to deposit selec- 
tions of mineralogy and precious stones for the formation of cabi- 
nets. There are also numerous large iron and copper foundries 
in the neighbourhood of Ekatherinebourg, the latter of which 
supplies the mint of the city with metal for coining three millions 
of copper roubles annually. The coin is badly executed, being 
chipped and cracked the first moment it is issued, nor is the metal 
better; and no care is taken to select or recoin any of this wretched 
money. The copper mines are near three hundred miles distant 
from the city; yet here the metal is worked up into ingots, heated, 
barred, cut, rounded, cleaned and stamped. 

Near the city the river is dammed up so as to form a sort of 
lake for the washing of the sand, which produces the gold, and 
close to it is the department for smelting that costly metal. This 
is produced from the gold mines of Berezofsky, distant twelve 
miles; the quantity produced is, however, small. The moment a 
fine specimen of pure gold is discovered, it makes its way into the 
cabinet of some private individual, and such specimens are neither 
few in number nor their intrinsic value small. It is justified on 



80 EKATHERINEBOURG. 

the usual ground of the insufficient remuneration of the officers, 
and at present may be considered as a fair and natural means of 
the support of government; for the salaries of officers and men, so 
far from having been increased since the days of Peter the Great 
and Catherine, have in reality been reduced three-fourths. Then 
the government paid in silver roubles (3s Ad. sterling) — but now 
in paper, the current value of which is 9id. When the increased 
value of provisions, and of all other articles, is considered in pro- 
portion with what they were fifty and one hundred years ago, it 
is only fair to put such pilfering to the account of necessity rather 
than that of depravity. In the midst of this abundance of natu- 
ral wealth, the peasant gets but very little reward for very hard 
work, and as all compulsive labour is reluctantly and badly per- 
formed, that, in cold and dreary mines, might be expected to be 
of all others performed the worst. Six thousand fine young men 
are employed in this occupation from morn till night through all 
seasons: and to sustain, certainly not to reward this, receive a 
daily allowance of two pounds of bad bread, with a suit of clothes 
and a sum amounting to 13s. 6d. sterling yearly: whatever they 
acquire beyond this must be by dishonest means. These six 
thousand individuals produce annually from the mines and sands 
about seventeen poods of gold and ten of silver, the united value 
of which is certainly under £30,000 sterling: so that the clear 
profit to the government, of each of these able-bodied men, after 
even these insufficient means of livelihood, cannot exceed 205, 
a-head. But for the imperious necessity of procuring a continued 
coinage, in order to support the immense circulating medium, it 
may be supposed that the Russian government could not hesitate 
for a moment to enfranchise these peasant slaves; as their contri- 
bution to the revenue, in the way of direct taxation, would infi- 
nitely exceed the paltry profit accruing from their coercive labour: 
— to say nothing of the large proportion which must be deducted 



EKATHERINEBOURG. 81 

for the expenses of an establishment, requiring so great a number 
of officers, and probably of costly implements. 

At Ekatherinebourg, at the table of the amiable chief, I met a 
Mr. Roper, an Englishman, employed in the mines. After dinner 
we visited the beds of gold sand. They seemed about six feet 
deep. The governor appeared to me too sanguine of the results, 
which can never authorize the employment of such fine young 
lads in the everlasting washing of the sands, with their feet con- 
stantly in water. 

From the gold beds I visited the mines of Berezofsky, the prin- 
cipal working one of which, a hundred and sixty feet of perpendi- 
cular depth, I descended. My access was, as in other mines, by 
the staircase, preferring that mode of descent to the more usual 
one in this place of being let down by the basket. I saw nothing 
to remark in the nature or plan of the employment, though I could 
not but regret that the operators were not, as in South America, 
criminals, but peasants belonging to the Imperial crown. The 
produce of the mines is in the proportion of one guinea's worth 
of pure gold for every four thousand pounds weight of earth. 
Ninety-six zolotniks of gold are equal to a pound, and three zolot- 
niks of gold are produced from each hundred poods of earth; so 
that even allowing forty pounds sterling for every pound of gold, 
the utmost value of every one hundred poods of earth cannot ex- 
ceed twenty-five shillings. The sum of the matter is, that His 
Imperial Majesty gets five thousand pounds sterling annually from 
the employment of six thousand men, deducting only the payment 
of his officers, a diminution which it will be allowed is not great. 

The magnificent iron establishment belonging to the YakovlefF 
family, is much better deserving of attention. Six thousand pea- 
sants are attached to it, and at present employed in making bar 
iron for the fair of Nishney-Novgorod, iron plates for covering 
houses, cast iron utensils of various kinds, steam engines, and im° 
T. 



82 KAMISHLOFF. 

mense quantities of cutlery, not. forgetting the iron images for 
worship, all finished in a neat and solid manner. The buildings 
appertaining to this establishment are equally extensive and sub- 
stantial; and the situation of the overseer, who is a peasant, is- 
worth two thousand pounds per annum ! The villages of the pea- 
santry are well built, and much liberality is evident in every part 
of the concern, which is as profitable as creditable to the proprietor,, 
whose character stands very high. 

I have already said that Ekatherinebourg is a well-built city. 
It indeed abounds in public edifices, bazars, and churches, and is 
regularly laid out in streets; but the inhabitants generally, even 
those who may be styled opulent, are slaves, either to the govern- 
ment or to private individuals. The greatest proportion of these 
are Raskolnicks, who some time ago sent one of their own body 
to purchase permission to build a church for the free exercise of 
4heir own tenets. The zealous missionary was also charged with 
four hundred thousand roubles, to make good his way; but neither 
missionary nor license, nor money, have since been heard of. 

Quitting Ekatherinebourg, I directed my steps towards Tobolsk, 
gratified that I had already entered Siberia. After ten miles of 
pleasant walking, I reached the hospitable habitation of Mr. Major, 
where J passed a couple of days in an agreeable manner, with his 
wife and three daughters, fine young women, and either of them 
sufficiently beautiful to arrest the progress of a Siberian traveller. 
Having no time to fall in love, on parting, I took advantage of the 
Russian custom of allowing them to salute my cheek, and I, i» 
return, kissed their hands. 

I reached the second station late in the evening, and next day 
remarking with pleasure the cleanliness and good nature of the 
inhabitants, reached Kamishloff. Kaminsky, a useless cannon 
foundry, laid in my way. The road is every where excellent 
over low swampy, yet well wooded, ground. Kamishloff is a pretty 



TUMEN. ©3 

little town on the banks of the Pyshma, a river but little used, by 
reason of some falls. There are two thousand inhabitants, occu- 
pying a somewhat flourishing carrying trade. I received the 
kindest attentions from the town major (a young militaire, who 
had been severely wounded in the Napoleon campaigns), and from 
the inspector general, who was then going his rounds. KamishlofF 
is the last station in the government of Perm. Thence to Tumen, 
the first station, thirty-six, and the second twenty-six versts,- — 
thirty-five miles in all. The country appeared well cultivated 
upon a soil of black mould. The third station of twenty-five, and 
the fourth of twenty-eight versts, — another thirty- five miles, I 
cleared in good time, but with a somewhat awkward indication of 
ulcers on my feet. At the last station, a small Tartar village, I 
was regaled with pork, bread and eggs, at free cost, no purse 
being necessary among these Tartars. I partook of the Whole- 
some fare a la Tartare, shaking hands first with the host, and re- 
ceiving his blessing of "Peace be with you," then squatting on 
my hams, like the rest of the company. On the third day reached 
Tumen, after near forty miles walking. The town major kindly 
received and lodged me in his house. 

Tumen is a city of some consideration, and from its local situa« 
tion, enjoys a considerable trade with the fair of Irbit, as well as 
to the south west and south east of it. Its population is said to 
consist of eight thousand, occupied mostly in the preparation and 
export of timber, tallow, hides, and embroidery. It is situate on 
the banks of the Toura. It owes its celebrity to Yermack, who 
discovered and conquered the greater part of Siberia. The en- 
virons of the city are fine pastures, and corn lands. With this 
advantage of soil, added to that of its being a depot or chancel- 
lary, as it is called, of the Russian American Company, for the 
receipt and transportation of their goods, as well as to enlist volun- 
teers, it may be said that Tumen is a place of considerable pro- 



S4 TOURA. 

mise. The banks of the Toura are steep, and the current rapid. 
The country round is populous, and more than ordinary industry 
everywhere observable. 

Having crpssed a miserable bridge, I reached the first station 
from Tumen, fifteen miles, where I put up for the night. It was, 
indeed, a wretched place; but I shall remember it, as affording a 
specimen of the proficiency I had made in the Russian language. 
Upon my arrival I demanded the name of the place, and was an- 
swered, as I had often been, Malaya Derevenya, which I inter- 
preted little revenue. In the present case, such a name seemed, 
indeed, peculiarly appropriate, for certainly the place appeared 
too poor to contribute any very efficient support to the resources 
of the empire. The frequency of the reply, however, induced me 
here to make the inquiry, and 1 discovered my error, the nature 
of which, however it abashed me at the time, places me in very 
respectable company — n.o less than that of the justly celebrated 
and learned Dr. Clarke, who was eternally crossing the river 
Protok, apparently ignorant that the Protok means neither more 
nor less than the branch of a river. 

The second and third stations lay on the banks of the Toura, 
running through a highly cultivated, and pleasant country, with 
immense herds of cattle scattered in every direction, and the in- 
habitants civil, polite, and hospitable, in proportion to their wealth. 
During the latter part of this walk, I had followed the custom of 
the place, the same as that in Spain, where I have often wandered 
with the muletteers, viz. that of sleeping in the open air. They 
are, indeed, a set of merry, happy fellows — hail fellow well met, 
this way, or that, rain or shine, nothing comes cross, while the 
beasts can get good fodder, and the moon does not shine in the 
eyes. A good fire serves at once to cook the provisions, and drive 
away the musquitoes. 

The following day I reached the fifth station, thirty-five miles. 



TOBOLSK. 85 

Here are a few dirty huts in a low marshy country. I had crossed 
the Toura by a miserable ferry; the breadth of the river two hun- 
dred yards, and the rate three, or three and a half knots per hour. 
To the eighth station, still a low country, almost inundated from 
the late heavy rains, which have done considerable damage, the 
village of Lepofsky being completely washed away. With the 
river Toura constantly at my side, and the rain almost incessant, 
I reached the tenth station; and thence to Tobolsk, where I ar- 
rived half drowned and famished, at three in the afternoon. I 
had encountered considerable difficulty in crossing the Irtish, in 
consequence of the rapidity of the fresh. The view of the city, 
and ancient fortress, on arriving from the westward, is very fine, 
standing on a considerable eminence, which overhangs the river 
and lower city. 

Upon my arrival I searched out the abode of Mr. Rosing, son- 
in-law to the Governor, and brother-in-law to my late kind host 
Mr. Berg, of Perm. The family were all at the Governor's, but 
receiving a note from me, they kindly invited me to dinner; my 
situation, however, rendered this impossible, as I was all but 
naked. My second apology brought the host himself, who ordered 
me every accommodation I needed. In the evening the whole 
party visited me, from the Governor's, observing, with much kind- 
ness, on the delay of my visit, and adding the proverb of Mahomet 
and the mountain. 1 gave myself up to the enjoyment of this de- 
lightful company, and of my pipe and a glass of punch, and could 
have fancied myself any where, rather than at Tobolsk. 

Formerly this was the capital of all Siberia, afterwards of a 
province, but now of western Siberia; a Governor-general re- 
siding in it, whose jurisdiction comprises that of Tomsk and Omsk, 
while Irkutsk has also a Governor-general, who rules Irkutsk, 
Yenisseisk, Yakutsk, Okhotsk, and Kamtchatka. Tobolsk is a 
large and ancient city, at the junction of the Tobol and Irtish. 



S6 TOBOLSK. 

two noble streams, which falling into the Ob, assume its name, 
and are with them, ultimately lost in the Frozen Ocean. The 
inhabitants are estimated at twenty thousand, composed of Rus- 
sians, Tartars, and Buchanans. A considerable trade is still car- 
ried on with China, and Tobolsk may be said to supply all central 
and western Siberia. It has, however, lost much by the change 
of route, which formerly led through the city, by which change 
the caravans have disused it as a halting place on their way to 
farther Siberia, and on their return, the straight road being from 
Tumen to Tara. 

Tobolsk is the see of an archbishop who has jurisdiction over 
all Siberia. It has many handsome churches, but (fortunately) no 
convents; the streets are paved with wood, and in general the 
buildings are of the same material. The markets and bazars are 
well regulated, and the town in general is very clean. The resi- 
dences of the archbishop, governor.general, and principal officers, 
as well as the barracks, arsenal, and all public offices, are in the 
upper part of the city. The position is a most commanding one, 
a matter of no slight consideration in those times, when convicts 
were kept in the lower town. Numerous large flocks of cattle 
are seen in the neighbourhood of Tobolsk: provisions are cheap 
and abundant — bread thirty-six pounds for a shilling, and the same 
quantity of meat for three; and hospitality eminently proverbial. 
But what is perhaps more remarkable, very good society is to be 
enjoyed here, and the strongest features of content are displayed 
in this hitherto supposed metropolis of barbarism and cruelty. 

The truth is, that Tobolsk is not a place where convicts or male- 
factors are allowed to remain, but people who are exiled from po- 
litical causes only; the principal part of whom are officers, who 
have still the privilege of appearing in public, without the loss of 
either rank, fortune, or even character. The Governor has it in 
his power to befriend any individual, himself becoming responsible 



TOBOLSK- 87 

for his appearance when necessary: and as no government trans- 
ports or banishes fools, Tobolsk may very well be, from this cir- 
cumstance, a highly civilized and eligible place of residence. — 
Malefactors and bad subjects are sent to Tomsk and Nertchinsk. 

I visited the celebrated fortress built by Yermak, the discoverer 
and conqueror of Siberia. Several old swords, muskets, and the 
like are deposited there, which for size and weight might vie wilh 
the more famous sword in Dumbarton castle. I also attended an 
examination at the public military and the provincial schools on 
the Lancastrian system. The children seemed to have made 
considerable proficiency in the first rudiments; the schools how- 
ever are yet in their infancy, though nearly one thousand boys at- 
tend. It was indeed gratifying to a patriotic heart to see the in- 
stitutions of old England adopted in the heart of Siberia — an 
adoption equally honourable to us, and creditable to Alexander. 

The view of the surrounding country from the residence of the 
Governor, is really sublime, preserving still its ancient wild mag- 
nificence. In front are the noble Irtish and Tobol, joining their 
waters from the east and south, and continuing their united course 
through the black and impenetrable forests, till lost on the verge 
of the horizon: the numerous pasture lands on the opposite bank 
of the river, with here and there a smoking chimney, enliven the 
scene, and render the place, with all its surrounding but distant 
deserts, a really enviable retreat. Immediately under the eye is 
the river and lower town, wilh its regularly intersecting streets; 
all these afford ocular demonstration, that Tobolsk is far from be- 
ing a dull place; yet, even in summer, the situation is very cold 
and bleak, being in the latitude of near 59°, and the thermometer, 
during winter, at times falling as low as 40° and 42° of Reaumur; 
while on the other hand it is not always free from the opposite un- 
pleasantness of extreme heat. 

The climate of the province, generally speaking, is inhospitable, 



88 



TOBOLSK. 



no part but the southern producing grain. The soil is chiefly mar! 
and chalk, except to the north, which is covered with immense 
tracts of sand. The wood is for the most part stunted in its growth, 
and such is the poverty of this province, which contains more than 
a million of souls, that the government receives from it but three 
millions of roubles nett revenue, or one hundred and fifty thousand 
pounds sterling. Its extent is immense, being from the latitude of 
50° to the frozen sea, and near one thousand miles in widlh. The 
northern districts are inhabited by Samoiedes and Ostiaks, a wild, 
barbarous race, who live by fishing and hunting, enduring all the 
rigours of winter, sometimes even without fuel. Fishing is also 
an active pursuit at Tobolsk, near two thousand people being em- 
ployed upon the Irtish and Tobol. The practice is to ascend the 
streams before the winter commences, catching and drying the fish 
as they go, and returning to the city with the breaking up of the 
ice. This employment, besides providing for the maintainance of 
those engaged in it, yields a very remunerating profit. The em- 
broidery of muslins is also brought to considerable perfection at 
Tobolsk, introduced originally by the daughters of exiled officers, 
who had felt the deprivation of their former means of subsistence; 
and it is now the prevailing fashion among the ladies. The poorer 
classes, however, are indolent, and will seldom work beyond what 
is immediately necessary for the procurement of food; and this may 
in part account for their suffering some of the richest and most 
beautiful lands in the world, on the banks of the Irtish, and to- 
wards the Chinese frontiers, to lie waste, while they prefer the de- 
serts and forests of the north. To this inducement, however, must 
be added that of obstinacy and false pride, and, perhaps, some por- 
tion of laudable attachment to their native city, which is termed 
the grand and ancient capital of all Siberia, and which has been 
the scene of achievements, equal, if not superior to those of Cortez, 



89 



CHAPTER V. 

Brief History of Western Siberia, and of its Conqueror Yermak — Imalak— 
Ingeary — Kaminski — Kamisart — Ishim — Tusnabolova — Tukalinslc — Omsk 
— The Kirgeese — Calmucks— Jeliezinskaya — Yamishersk — Poyanoyarsk 
— Ubinsk — Uvarova— Alexandrofsk — Bouktourma — Krasnojarsk — Maloi 
Narymsk — Chinese Frontier — The Irtish — Ustkamenegorsk — Ismayelova 
— Neighbourhood of the Kolyvan — Kalmanka — Barnaoule — Tomsk — Kioff 
— Krasnochinsky — Bagota — Atchinsk — Krasnojaisk — Kansko — lngashe — 
Nishney Udinsk — Irkutsk. 

The early history of this part of the world is involved in much ob- 
scurity, little being known of it prior to the beginning of the six- 
teenth century, when the celebrated Yermak became at once the 
discoverer and conqueror of Western Siberia. He had originally 
been the leader of a numerous and well organized banditti, who 
committed great and distressful ravages on the Don and Volga, but 
which were put an end to after the victories of Ivan Basilovitch 
over the Tartars of Kazan and Astrakan, when he devoted his at- 
tention to the peaceable establishment of his dominions. Yermak 
was thus compelled to fly, and sought refuge in the north, on the 
banks of the Kama, where the family of Strogonoff had a factory 
for the purpose of barter with the Siberians. The conduct of our 
hero proved so unlike that of a freebooter, that Strogonoff during 
the winter of 1577 provided him with necessaries to subsist his 
men, and with arms and ammunition to make an incursion upon 
the Siberians. 

The first campaign was in the summer of 1578. Yermak had 
M 



90 BRIEF HISTORY OF 

from six to seven thousand men with him; but through his igno- 
rance of the route, and want of guides, winter closed in upon him 
almost before the commencement of the campaign. His route lay 
along the Kama to the entrance of the river Silvar, where he passed 
the winter in a small town stili named after him. 

In the spring of 1579 Yermak returned to Strogonoff's establish- 
ment, where he received a fresh supply of arms, including a set 
of colours, ornamented with images after the Russian custom. In 
the summer he resumed his operations, availing himself of the little 
rivers Tchsusovaya and Serebranka; the latter of which brought 
him to the point whence it was necessary to proceed by land. He 
was soon, however, again obliged to winter in what is termed a 
krepost, or wooden fortress; his forces, meantime, were fast dimi- 
nishing by sickness and constant skirmishes. 

In 1580 he continued his progress along the little rivers Baran- 
cha and Jouraslik, where his forces were reduced to one thousand 
six hundred and fifty men. With those he sailed down the Tagili, 
and reached the town now called Tourinsk, and there defeated the 
Tartar Prince, Epantchy. — On the 1st of August he reached 
Tsaugy, now Tumen, on the banks of the Toura, of which he took 
possession, and fixed his winter quarters, with only one thousand 
five hundred followers, but inured to hardships, accustomed to vic- 
tory, and putting implicit faith in their leader. 

The spring of 1581 was marked by two victories over the Tar- 
tar Prince, Mahomed Koul. Yermak then marched along the 
Tobol, till he reached the Irtish, the centre of Koutchum Khan's 
dominions. His forces were now reduced to five hundred men; 
yet with these he resolved to conquer or to die. On the 23d Oc- 
tober a bloody conflict took place between the armies — when 
Koutchum Khan and the Prince Meneik Koul were entirely de- 
feated, and narrowly escaped being made prisoners. The scene 
of action was at the junction of the Tobol and the Irtish, the site 



WESTERN SIBERIA. 9i 

of the present city of Tobolsk. Yermak instantly directed his 
march against Sibir, the capital of (he Tartars, distant twelve miles, 
and on the 26th October entered it in triumph, received the oath 
of allegiance of his new subjects, and, from the head of a banditti, 
became a sovereign prince. The situation of Yermak was, how- 
ever, by no means enviable. He resolved, therefore, to make a 
tender of his conquest and further services to the Tzar. Accord- 
ingly, on the 22d December he despatched his confidant, the Ata- 
man Klotsoff, to Moscow, with the news and message. Klotsoff 
was received with every demonstration of joy; and special marks 
of royal favour were conferred upon the hero and his companions, 
together with a general pardon for past offences. Yermak himself 
was honoured with two rich coats of armour, a silver cup, and a 
fur cloak which the Tzar himself had worn; the last being then 
considered the greatest mark of distinction in Russia. 

Yermark, meanwhile, was not idle. Leaving a part of his 
small force to garrison and protect Sibir, which seems to have 
given name to all the Asiatic part of the Russian empire, he, with 
the assistance of his favourite, Briazga, extended his conquests to 
the countries of the Ostiaks and Vogouls, near to Samaroff and 
Tabarinsk. 

In the sequel, Yermark undertook an expedition for the pur» 
pose of subjugating the surrounding territories, Snd annihilating 
the remainder of the Khan's followers. Attended by three hun- 
dred Cossacks of the Don, he reached the settlement called Am- 
bashoo; but here received information which induced him to re- 
trace his steps towards the new capital. He reached in safety a 
canal which had been cut by his directions as a species of defence, 
as well as for the shortening of the communication; and here he 
passed the last night of his extraordinary career. 

The inclemency of the weather, the fatigues they had under- 
gone, and the apparent security of the situation, all operated to 



92 BRIEF HISTORY OF 

plunge the party in profound sleep; even the guard was overcome; 
when Koutchum Khan, who had cautiously and unobserved, fol- 
lowed and watched his enemy, fell upon them sword in hand. 
Never was a greater scene of tumult, or a night victory more com- 
plete, than that gained by the Tartars; and Yermak's whole party, 
with the exception of himself and one man, were cut to pieces, 
Finding all lost, Yermak fled to the river, and in attempting to 
jump into a boat, fell into the water, and was drowned — the 
weight of his armour preventing his swimming. Thus perished, 
after seven years of constant warfare, this enterprising and valua- 
ble leader, in the night between the 5th and 6th of August 1584. 
According to tradition, his body was afterwards found and buried 
near the promontory of Bageeshefsk, under a large fir-tree, not far 
from the Irtish, near which a cross is erected. 

For a while the Russian empire in Siberia was at an end, as 
the remains of his small band, which had been left as a garrison 
at Sibir, together with the single individual who had survived the 
late conflict, and told the mournful tale, evacuated the fortress, 
and returned to Russia. The court of Muscovy were not long, 
however, before they renewed their designs upon the conquest of 
Siberia. The intestine commotions and divisions of the Tartar 
princes, who were asserting their relative independence, offered 
the best prospects of success: and many of the Tartars were pleas- 
ed with the conduct of the Russians, and perfectly disposed to join 
them against Koutchum Khan, who was disliked for his intolera- 
ble zeal in propagating the Mahomedan faith. A body of three 
hundred Russians accordingly penetrated to the Toura without 
opposition, built the fort of Tumen, and there waited for reinforce- 
ments. The subjugation of Tobolsk and Tara followed; and for- 
tresses were there also established. In the short space of a cen- 
tury the whole of Siberia, from Europe to the Eastern Ocean, and 
from the Frozen Sea to the Chinese frontiers, was annexed to the 



WESTERN SIBERIA. 93 

Russian empire. New towns were built, colonies were planted, 
and settlements established in the most distant parts. Those tribes 
of Tartars who were not readily reducible to obedience, were at 
once exterminated; and something like the same merciless cruelty 
which characterised the Spaniards in South America, was prac- 
tised in Siberia. Much more would have been done, and the 
Russians would no doubt have had possession of all Mongolia, had 
not the jealousy of the Chinese interfered. 

The Russians had extended their thirst for dominion along the 
banks of the Amour, and were continuing their subjugation of the 
Tungousian tribes, when they encountered the Chinese who were 
drawn thither by the same object. From jealousy of each other's 
conquests, these two great powers became involved in a war about 
the year 1680, and the fortresses on the Amour became alter- 
nately the property of each, as the chances of war dictated. At 
length, however, the Chinese power prevailed, and at a peace in 
1689, the Russians ceded a considerable territory, together with 
the navigation of the Amour. The value of this river, at that time 
unknown, has been fully seen since the discovery of Kamtchatka 
and its adjacent islands, as well as the proximity of continental 
America, and the Archipelago of islands between. This ceded 
territory and other valuable points, Russia has never since been 
able to regain, as, with little exception, the two countries have 
remained at peace: and thus closes the history of Siberia, till the 
discovery and conquest of the peninsula of Kamtchatka, which took 
place in the early part of the 18th century. 

The above history is in the main a translation of a biographical 
notice attached to the profile of Yermak on a large map, which 
was presented to me by my excellent friend the Governor of To- 
bolsk. It is also to be found in Coxe's account of Russian disco- 
veries. 

To return to my journey, for which 1 had been preparing dur- 



94 IMALAK. .-. 

ing the three days I was in Tobolsk, by getting a new leathern 
water-proof knapsack, and deliberating the route to be pursued. 
I felt anxious to get on as fast as possible, but yet so as not to miss 
meeting the Governor-general, who, I was informed, was on his 
way to Tobolsk, but not by the direct road, his Excellency taking 
Kolyvan and Omsk in his way. It was therefore determined that 
I should go first to Omsk, and follow the Irtish as far as the Chi- 
nese frontiers; and thence, return by the same river, and proceed 
to the mines of Kolyvan, where it was to be hoped I might arrive 
in time to meet Mr. Speranski, the Governor-general. In further- 
ance of my design, the governor supplied me with a Cossack, and 
an order for horses if I should deem them necessary, as well as 
an open order for all assistance to be rendered me, not only in his 
government, but as far as the capital of the next; his power being 
understood to extend from capital to capital. 

I bade adieu to Tobolsk, with a grateful remembrance of the 
kindness I had experienced; and, in company with my young Cos- 
sack, pursued the road to Omsk. It is not a good one. The coun- 
try residences of the governor and archbishop were on the right, 
as also a large monastery which I had visited three days before on 
the occasion of a fete; but the country generally possesses very 
little of interest. At twelves miles I passed a second monastery 
romantically situated: and, upon the road to it, many hundreds of 
people coming from their annual visit to the Virgin to whom it is 
dedicated; her ladyship having, during the week, presented herself 
at Tobolsk to receive her rents. At sixteen miles I reached the 
village of Imalak, overhanging the Irtish, which, dividing, forms 
an island, and in such a manner as to present a double serpentine 
view. The extent of territory seen from the elevated banks is 
astonishing and beautiful. 

I descended the mountain by a steep and dangerous road, then 
ferried over the Irtish, passing through a large Tartar village situ- 



KAMENSKI. 95 

ated in a fine pasture, with some rye com, and reached the second 
station on the lofty bank of the Irtish. I found the cottages neat 
and clean, and the inhabitants comfortable, hospitable and con- 
tented, without hope or expectation of reward for their hospitality 
to me. Thence to Berezofska, the country appears more cultivat- 
ed and pleasing, with a good deal of fine wood in the valleys. 
Thence to the Tartar village of Ingeary, on the banks of the Va- 
gay, when I entered a considerable track of their lands, near 
seventy miles in extent, but without a single Russian inhabitant. 
These Tartars are of the Bashkire race. I could not help observ- 
ing the perfect cleanliness of their houses, the civility of the peo- 
ple, and the good economy of their lands. I slept most content- 
edly in these dwellings; feeding upon milk and cakes. 

The dress of the Tartar women is light, if not neat; being 
merely a plain white shift, with a sash round the waist to support 
the bosom; besides they have not a vestige of apparel, except the. 
handkerchief on the head. The young girls had the hair plaited 
and hanging down like the Biscay girls, or brought up under the 
left arm, and fastened to the fore part of the shift by a riband. 
Such is the simple summer dress: the winter, or gala one, is, how- 
ever, more tawdry. Their features appear delicate, but their 
limbs are strong, and their complexion very dark. 

At Kamenski I quitted the great Siberian road not far from 
Tara, passing several neat Tartar villages, whose white plastered 
chimneys and ovens reminded me a little of those in my own 
country. The furniture consists of a few earthenware utensils, 
and a set of tea things: one half of the room is elevated above 
the other about fourteen inches, and that half serves them alike for 
sitting, sleeping, and store-room. They are particular in having 
clean bedding, and many pillows; the latter of which are always 
presented to a stranger to raise and soften his seat, as they have 
neither chairs nor stools. A Tartar dwelling has always, if possi- 



96 ISHIM — B0R0VAYA. 

ble, attached to it the convenience of a vegetable garden. The 
women, I observed, never presume to eat or drink till their better 
or worse half has finished, and then but seldom while in their 
presence. 

Reached Aramashansky, near the Vagay, which winds its waters 
through many fertile spots. At Kamisart I met much incivility, 
not being permitted to pass the night in it, without having recourse 
to severe measures; to avoid which I preferred continuing my 
journey in the rain. This part of the country appears well culti- 
vated, and better peopled; nor is it void of interest, — for the ac- 
count of its scenery, described in the well known tale of " Eliza- 
beth, or the Exiles of Siberia," is, on this point, very correct. 
Crossed the little river Carasal to Besroocoouva, a fine level pas- 
ture plane, feeding immense quantities of cattle; thence to Ishim, 
which I reached at four in the evening, in a torrent of rain, much 
.fatigued, and my Cossack more so: — he was, in fact, perfectly 
useless. 

Ishim, so celebrated in the novel, is a miserable town on the 
stream of its own name, deserving remark here only for the in- 
civility of the inhabitants, who, with the commissary and the doc- 
tor, were all noisily intoxicated. Of course I could get no atten- 
tion paid me, either as to lodging or food; and though the rain fell 
in torrents, I and my Cossack were obliged to pass the night in 
the market place. 

Next morning we reached a neat village called Borovaya, where 
I was hospitably entertained by the elder of the village, who also 
furnished me with horses to Tusnabolova (twenty miles), where 
the long bearded guard searched my baggage; alas, it contained 
little; and for once I felt ashamed at the examination. They did 
their duty in a civil manner, but I was much puzzled to think 
what they could be in expectation of finding. The country is 
open, and laboriously cultivated, and the neighbourhood populous, 



TUKALINSK. 9? 

Much fine wood, and some Ashless lakes are also to be seen. I 
overtook a party of unfortunates exiled for misdemeanors, and 
compelled to live in this district, which is hence the general ren- 
dezvous of pick-pockets, &c. At the neat village I happened to 
be quartered at the house of a newly married couple; and I con- 
fess I regreted the law, which compelled them to quit their bed 
and room for me. To this sacrifice, however, they submitted in 
the most cheerful manner, putting before me bread, milk, and 
eggs, and, indeed, whatever the house could furnish. Through 
a succession of happy villages I reached Tukalinsk, over an un- 
interesting level of pasture land. The wretched external appear- 
ance of the cottages is more than counterbalanced by the neatness 
within; and if half a dozen healthy and beautiful children be any 
indication of content, then are the inhabitants of this district most 
happy. The price of bread is one shilling, and of meat three, 
for forty pounds. The road is, in general, very good. 

At Tukalinsk I had the misfortune to loose what was to me my 
all, — my passport, papers, and every protection in Siberia. In 
vain I addressed the commissary; in vain I offered a guinea for 
their recovery; in vain I pointed out the rogue who had taken 
them in the tin case from the seat while I was at dinner. I begged, 
entreated, insisted, threatened, abused; — all was to no purpose; 
and I was finally constrained to go without them. By this terri- 
ble disaster I was entirely deprived of all testimony of myself, my 
connexions, or the object of my journey, and lay at the mercy of 
any one who might choose to provide me with large but cheap 
lodgings. 

My route towards Omsk was over a similar pasture plane as far 
as the eye could reach, with scarcely the appearance of a shrub. 
At Sukofski, the drunken post-master would have made me like 
himself, but, in such rainy and dreary weather, I preferred tea. 
I next crossed over to a little village called Krasnoyarsk, on a 
N 



98 OMSK. 

stream which unites with the Irtish, now again visible, after a,u 
absence of two hundred miles. I at last got view of the fortress 
of Omsk, and having reached the Irtish, passed from a most dreary 
into a highly fertile corn country, and finally, in a ferry over the 
Om, entered the city by a neat bridge, at five in the evening. 

On my arrival, I of course presented myself to the Izpravnick, 
or head commissary, and made known my loss in as good language 
as I could. I failed in making him understand me, but he hu- 
manely gave me good lodgings until he could procure the presence 
of one of the military officers, to act as interpreter. This was 
done the next day. Meantime, I addressed a letter to the Gover- 
nor-general and Governor of Tobolsk, requesting an attested copy 
of the documents I had lost, and which I had taken the precaution to 
have made there. The police-master invited me to dine with him, 
though he confessed he could not understand either my objector cha- 
racter. He was, however, soon satisfied by the arrival of an express 
with my passports, &c. all complete. Thus was I, from a state of 
suspicion and surveillance, again restored to society. I should be 
very ungrateful, were I not to do justice here to the conduct of 
the commissary, who kindly went eighty miles, upon my account, 
to enforce the return of the papers, which being in a tin case, in- 
duced the party to suspect money was there. All that I had was, 
however, in my knapsack, and that did not amount to five pounds. 
I dined the second day with the chiefs of the district, when a 
committee of the merchants attended to request my acceptance of 
a commercial commission to the Kirgeese and Kalmuck's country, 
being given to understand I could speak those languages from hav- 
ing formerly traded with them. Here, then, was a captain of the 
British navy, in the heart of Siberia, converted into a Tartar 
trader. I humoured the joke, and demanded the per-centage. 
They made their offer, and my demand exceeding it by from 
twenty to thirty per cent., I was of course not employed. In the 



omseL 99 

evening, I received a polite invitation from Baron Klotte, the 
general then commanding the military corps of Siberia. It is pro- 
per to observe that the worthy Baron honoured me with this 
compliment before I had recovered my papers, and solely with the 
view of benefiting and protecting a stranger. I passed in the garri- 
son three pleasant days, conversing in the French language, which 
I found both ladies and gentlemen understood well. Feasts and 
fetes were given to me by the first individuals, all of whom vied 
in exemplifying to me the boundless hospitality of their nation. 

Omsk is piaced at the junction of the Irtish and Om. Previous 
to the invention of cannon, it was no doubt a strong place, and 
even at present, considering the means of those by whom alone it 
can be attacked, may be deemed impregnable. It has a garrison 
of four thousand men, with a flying artillery of forty pieces. It 
may be divided into fortress, town, and suburbs. The first is the 
most considerable, and is in fact a neat place, the buildings, bar- 
racks, &c. being constructed generally of brick, and surrounded 
by a good mud wall and ditch, which will ere long have cannon 
mounted upon it. The military college is a noble foundation 
upon the Lancasterian system, and was established immediately 
on his Imperial Majesty's return from his visit to England. Won- 
derful proficiency has been attained by several of its pupils, now 
young men, and the general improvement reflects credit on all 
concerned in its management. The youth are instructed, besides 
reading, writing and arithmetic, in drawing, mathematics, fortifi- 
cation, and algebra, and in some of the oriental languages. The 
barracks for the boys, their food, clothing, bedding, &c, are in 
excellent order; and every praise is due to the attention and bene- 
volence of the commandant, Col. Ivanoff, who is considered by them 
as a father. They are composed of the children of the military 
forming the army of Siberia. The school for the children of the 
cossacks is on a similarly benevolent plan, although not quite so 



I afC. 



100 THE KIRGEESE. 






forward from the want of good masters. The town and suburbs 
have some neat buildings, but are not otherwise remarkable. The 
united population is seven thousand five hundred. 

Omsk was one of the strong places of the Tartars, and success- 
fully withstood the attacks of the great Yermak. The country 
round is fertile as to its soil, though not extensively cultivated: it 
is one vast plane as level as a floor. The fortress is north, and 
the town south of the Om, but both are east of the Irtish. Oppo- 
site is the territory of the wandering Kirgeese, presenting no ap- 
pearance of cultivation or dwellings. A considerable trade is 
carried on with them, as also with the Calmucks to the south, 
which consists in the barter of cattle, &c. for tobacco and spirits. 
Several children of each of these tribes are to be seen in Omsk, 
who are slaves, having been sold by their parents for a pound of 
tobacco, or a glass of spirits. They are, however, in this degraded 
condition, better off than when wandering the inhospitable de- 
serts. 

The Kirgeese are divided into three hordes, all more or less 
tributary to Russia, although they have Khans of their own. They 
are all wanderers over the countries between Omsk and the Cas- 
pian sea. Their occupations consist in hunting, fishing, and breed- 
ing cattle, and of the latter they have immense droves in this 
vicinity. They are not considered nice in the mode of acquiring 
them, and have even been accused of kidnapping and selling 
christians: an accusation not improbable from the example set 
them. They continue only so long in a place as there is forage 
for their beasts, getting, in winter, as near the woods as possible, 
for the advantage of fuel, though, in most parts, the dried dung of 
their cattle provides a ready and efficient substitute. I saw one 
of their chiefs, a good looking fellow, but very filthy; and indeed, 
they are in general the most miserable and filthy race I ever be- 
held, scarcely, during the warm weather, affording themselves a 



THE CALMUCKS. 101 

pair of trowsers for mere decency. One large iron kettle, with 
wooden spoons, constitutes the furniture of their more wretched 
tent. They are, however, excellent horsemen, and are supposed 
to be descended from the Mongoles and Tartars. Their language 
is peculiar to themselves. 

The Calmucks who, like them, make no scruple to dispose of 
their children upon any momentary distress, or want of spirits, are 
yet a different race, both with respect to features and origin. They 
are. however, their equals in idleness and filth, and follow the 
same vagabond way of life. The Calmucks are, notwithstanding, 
the direct descendants of the Mongoles, who emigrated hither after 
the destruction of their empire. Very few are subject to Russia, a 
great part of them living in Chinese Mongolia, while the rest of 
them, under the protection of Russia, roam about the countries si- 
tuate between the Don and Volga, and the Ural mountains. Their 
features will for ever mark them in whatever part of the world — 
the flat face, small and elongated eyes, broad nose, high cheek bones, 
thick lips, and brownish yellow complexion, are sure signs of their 
Mongolian descent. They are obliging, but inquisitive and dis- 
honest; yet, with a little Russian education and discipline, they 
make good servants. I ate and drank with them, as also with the 
Kirgeese, upon roasted meat, without bread, or any thing else, save 
a glass of spirits and a pipe of tobacco. 

Thus much of the two people whom I shall meet upon my next 
journey along the Irtish. I departed with a military cossack, and 
a protection from Baron Klotte, addressed to all the general, field, 
and subaltern officers of the army of Siberia, accompanied with a 
discretionary power to call out horses. I reached the second sta- 
tion, twenty miles, and halted for the night: the third station, 
Achinskaye, is a large village, with a ditch and redoubt, for de- 
fence against bows and arrows. The neighbourhood of the fourth 
station abounds in horses, bullocks, sheep and camels. I reached 



102 JELIEZINSKAYA. 

the twelfth, one hundred and fifty miles from Omsk, without any 
thing of interest. It is called Jeliezinskaya fortress, having a 
commandant, and garrison of two hundred and fifty men, and 
twelve pieces of flying artillery, to defend it. It is a neat little 
town, surrounded by a mud wall and ditch, with a ponderous 
gateway, which gives it a martial appearance; nor is the situation 
void of interest, although placed upon a desolate tract, 

w 

Where wilds immeasurably spread, 
Seem lengthening as I go. 

The distant parts of the Kirgeese lands, boast some eminences, 
and a considerable quantity of wood; the road is good, and living 
cheap, fish particularly being very abundant. The road still lies 
along the right bank of the Irtish, and the several villages are 
purely military, to keep up the communication between the fron- 
tier fortresses and Omsk; a non-commissioned officer and twelve 
or twenty men residing in each. Their dwellings are good, and 
excellent vegetables are produced in the gardens; a great advan- 
tage over the fort of Omsk, where the soldiers have either too much 
work, or are too idle to attend to the production of vegetables, not- 
withstanding they are greatly needed as an anti-scorbutic, great 
ravages being made by that disorder among the soldiers, who at 
present subsist entirely on dried meat, bread, and brandy. 

I dined with the commandant, a German, and resumed my jour- 
ney amongst a number of Kirgeese tents, and immense herds of 
cattle. One of these wanderers I induced to sing; but, though the 
air was musical enough, its words, as I understood, and the ac- 
companying actions, as I could perceive, were much too obscene. 
At the fourth station, 1 was favoured with a drive by a young lass 
of seventeen; and, if she manages her husband as well as she did 
the horses and the whip, I should scarcely envy him his fortune, 
though indeed she was 'a personable girl, and had secured my gra 



p 

YAxMHISHERSK. 103 

tilude by officiating as postilion. The fifth station is marked by 
much corn-land. — I dined with two of the Kirgee.se chiefs, who 
had come to take account of their property. Their appearance 
was handsome and manly: a long robe of blue cloth beautifully 
embroidered and fastened round the waist by a highly polished 
silver belt, from which was suspended a dagger, a knife, a pipe, 
and what in England might be termed a tinder-box; a shirt of co- 
loured cotton, large Tartar trowsers, and boots to correspond; a 
handsome fur cap, with a small black one under it to cover the 
clean shaved head; a long beard, and bare neck. Their horses 
were well accoutred, and managed by a long whip, which serves 
also in the driving of the cattle. They were altogether superior 
looking young men of about twenty-five. 

At the eighth station the eye is somewhat relieved from the 
sameness of the scene, a good deal of wood and pasture land, with 
many of the Kirgeese yourtes and fires appearing on the opposite 
side of the river: an abundance of corn upon this. At (he twelfth 
station several islands in the river, and many fishing boats, are 
added to the scene. The youth of both sexes are extremely beau- 
tiful, and present the liveliest picture of health: both go unclothed 
till the age of twelve, with the exception only of a clean white 
shirt, fastened tight round under the breast. 

I reached Yamhishersk, one hundred ana 1 sixty miles from the 
last fortress, which it greatly resembles, although its garrison is 
larger, being seven hundred and fifty strong. The barracks, and 
officers' quarters, as well as the store-houses, &c, are well built 
and kept in good order. The present commandant, a sensible and 
civil German, supplied me with a bottle of rum, a pound of to- 
bacco, and some bread. I met here also a young Prussian, who 
was a resident of Moscow when that city was burnt by the French. 
From that disaster a ruined man, he entered the army, and now 
presented himself to me as interpreter of various languages, though 



104 GL0UKH0F. 

of the six he professed, I believe he understood no other than Russ. 
His good nature, however, and general obligingness to me, made 
him an acceptable companion. 

To the next fortress is a distance of one hundred and eighty 
miles, which I commenced next morning, alternately walking and 
riding as circumstances offered. At fifty miles there are many long, 
but not very high hills, and the country is sufficiently picturesque 
to employ the genius of a painter. The distant horizon to the 
North showed the Irtish flowing in a direct course. Nearer hand 
it meanders beautifully, serpentining through the pasture grounds, 
to which some natural hedges gave the most interesting appearance. 
A solitary Kirgeese village of moveable tents stood in the centre, 
the river winding almost round it, and forming somewhat of a pe- 
ninsula as in the annexed, cut, 

West 
South 




-North 

East 

the V being the site of the dwellings. Vast herds of cattle were 
grazing beyond the village; the sun was setting as it were in clouds 
of fire; while the moon standing in the south added a peculiar fea- 
ture to the silence and solitude of the scene. 

To the tenth station I trudged over bad roads, in worse weather, 
and through a dreary and unproductive country. On reaching the 
thirteenth station, however, high lands to the south began to revive 
me with their appearance, and break the sameness of the scene. 

1 stopped at Gloukhof a little unwell, from having been wet 
twenty-four hours; a small cabin received me, whose civil land- 
lord and his handsome daughter readily furnished me with bread. 



SEMIPALATINSK. 105 

rice, and milk, and a comfortable bed. Next day started for Se- 
mipalatinsk, which I reached at noon, having crossed some sand 
hills. 

Semipalatinsk is also a fortress with near one thousand soldiers 
and a commandant. It is a neat town, and has a military school 
upon the Lancasterian system, instructing four hundred boys; a cir- 
cumstance of pleasing reflection to an English mind, to find her 
own benevolent ideas adopted even here, in a tract of country re- 
moved by its situation from almost every access to civilization. 
The establishment is in its infancy, and from this and a great want 
of capable masters, exhibits no great proficiency beyond reading 
and writing. The town, independent of the military, numbers 
about two thousand inhabitants, who carry on an inconsiderable 
trade with their southern neighbours. It stands on a pleasant emi- 
nence, commanding a fine view of the lofty mountains to the south. 
I was hospitably entertained by the commandant, who lives in a 
respectable style. The surrounding country is void of cultivation, 
and infested with robbers, who commit serious depredations, an 
instance of which occurred while I was at dinner; a poor pedlar 
being robbed of two thousand roubles, or one hundred pounds, and 
his horse, neither of which there is any chance of his recovering. 
There is evidently something incorrect, but which I could not fa- 
thom, in the administration of justice as it respects the punishment 
of robbers, but there is no doubt, that a due percentage on the lost 
property, applied in a certain manner, will procure its restoration. 
This, indeed, appears as open a countenance of the crime as can 
well be imagined; yet such is the fact. If no fee is given, little 
exertion is made, and the numerous complainis on this subject 
have hitherto been of no effect. 

I quitted Semipalatinsk late in the evening, and directed my 
steps for Ubinsk along the banks of a little stream which gives 
name to the fortress, and which unites with the Irtish. I had en- 




106 POYANOYARSK. 

tered a kibitka which was passing the same way, and at some dis- 
tance observed the postillion turn off suddenly to the right. My 
mind misgave me, because in no instance before had I deviated 
from the high road. I recollected also, that the Cossack and pos- 
tillion were both half drunk, and had been in earnest and secret 
conversation; I therefore determined to quit by a short movement. 
It was ten at night, and we were in a low thick brush-wood, when 
taking my knapsack, I suddenly quitted the vehicle, informing them, 
as well as I could by signs, and an obstinate persistence not to go 
their way, that if they were bound as they had pretended, Mhey 
would follow me. I continued alone, and regained the main road; 
the vehicle also tacked and came after me, but I refused to re- 
enter it, and marched on to the next station, keeping them at a re- 
spectful distance all the way. On my arrival, I discharged the 
Cossack, without, however, reporting his conduct to the German 
commandant, as I perhaps ought to have done. My hostess for 
the night was in a most unamiable temper, seeming to partake of 
the disappointment of the two fellows; for which her husband, a 
corporal, gave her a sound drubbing, with a stick " bigger than 
his thumb." 

In the afternoon of the next day, I crossed the Irtish, after a 
hard walk of thirty miles. The country low and wet from smart 
showers, — in the evening I reached Poyanoyarsk, and here first 
saw melons in this country. These, which are of a prodigious 
size, form, with cucumbers and bread, the general summer diet of 
the inhabitants. They sell at one copec each, that is ten for a 
penny, — a price which certainly does not render to the grower any 
thing beyond the barest subsistence; for five guineas I might have 
loaded a ship with them. I received a great many as presents, 
but left them as useless to one in my situation. The cucumbers 
are also very fine, and equally cheap, being one hundred for a 
penny; and good wholesome brown bread at five pence for forty 



UVAROVA. 10^ 

pounds. Whether from perfect hospitality or abundance I know 
not, but I certainly never was better entertained. 

Next day I reached Ubinsk, a vile dirty place, called here a 
town. I had before passed some distant elevated lands on the 
Kirgeese side, and here, I think, may be said to commence that 
chain of lofty mountains which divides the empires of Russia and 
China. Having procured another Cossack, I continued along the 
Irtish for Ustkamenogoesk, the country on the west presenting 
some fine hill and dale, with mountainous breaks in the back 
ground, while the Russian side is still a level steppe. Corn fields 
lie at intervals along the road to the river Uba, which unites with 
the Irtish opposite to a bluff projecting point, and hence occasions 
a strong cross current and rapid. It was late when I reached it, 
yet being anxious to get on, I determined to cross the stream, against 
the remonstrances of the natives. The ferry, or horse-boat, being 
out of repair, I was advised to wait at the village; but seeing a 
canoe, I determined on trying how far it would assist me. My 
knapsack and various parts of saddlery, I skulled over in safety, 
with my Cossack, the inhabitants sending their horses at the same 
time, and actually tying two to the canoe, which had nearly proved 
fatal to the whole. I, however, reached in safety, and a traveller 
on the opposite bank gave me the use of his telega to proceed upon 
my journey, not being himself able to take it across the river. 

The night was dull and rainy, but the moon being near her full, 
we got on tolerably well, and at eight in the morning I reached 
Uvarova, whence I again began to enjoy my travels; for that un- 
productive and almost endless flat which extends from Ubinsk to 
Tobolsk and the Frozen Sea, and from the Ural chain far east- 
ward of Tomsk, is now succeeded by a beautiful variety of hilly 
country, much cultivation, and some forest spots. Many bold and 
picturesque bluffs run into the river, rushing as it were through 
the valleys, and forming strong eddies as they pass the islands with 



I OS 



ALEXANDROFSKOY. 



which the liver is interspersed. I reached Ustkamenogorsk in the 
early part of the second evening, having crossed a sort of broken 
chain of hills. The scenery in general was, however, very beau- 
tiful and wild; to ihe right one of the peaks lifts its snow-clad head, 
and is visible at the distance of one hundred miles. Ustkameno- 
gorsk is placed in a vast level valley, bounded east and west by 
lofty distant mountains, and the whole forms a rich and striking 
panorama. The fortress is like others hereabouts, — a bare mud 
wall, yet keeps a commandant and three hundred soldiers in snug 
but useless quarters, occupied in cutting hay and plundering the 
poor peasantry. 

Very fine timber is brought here from a distance of twenty miles, 
but the country is otherwise sterile. I quitted it for Boukhtarma 
next morning. The first station was over a mountainous road, of- 
fering the most abundant treasures to the botanist and mineralogist; 
thence to Feklistouska twelve miles, and to Severnoy ten, over 
one of the most romantic countries in the world, sometimes along 
the banks of the rapid Ulba, then across deep and dangerous ra- 
vines, tremendous precipices, and fertile valleys, where a few Tar- 
tar peasants tending their flocks and herds were the only signs of 
any thing beside the immediate works of the Creator. Some slen- 
der birch and green fir-trees arrest the attention on the almost 
trackless path. The scene was too fine to sleep in, and I conti- 
nued to Alexandrofskoy, twelve miles farther, to witness a repeti- 
tion of the magnificence I had left behind. It was indeed a scene 
to be enjoyed — at the close of the evening, in the middle of the 
month of August, and both the great luminaries of heaven were 
just seen peeping above the distant hills, one rising from the east, 
t'other setting in the west, and not a sound was to be heard save 
the murmur of the Ulba winding towards the east. The night 
was cold but beautiful, and a heavy dew falling on the most ele- 
vated parts, seemed to cast a melancholy shade over the valleys 



BOUKHTARMA. 109 

below. All nature seemed to smile upon me as I trotted over the 
ground, meditating upon the perfect beauty of so deserted and un- 
frequented a spot. My reverie continued till midnight, when I 
reached the village. Thence on horseback to Boukhtarma, fifteen 
miles, arriving early in the morning. The way was stili exceed- 
ingly beautiful, being over a mountainous tract, now on the sum- 
mit and then in a close valley, every where overhung by birch- 
trees. A few corn fields also appeared in the last stage before I 
reached the fortress. 

Boukhtarma stands on the right bank of the Irtish, in one of 
the most romantic spots in the universe. It is environed by the 
noblest mountains, which yet appear to have no other connexion 
with each other than that of standing together on the same globe: 
they are in fact so many beautiful hills placed on a perfectly level 
plane, so that a traveller may go round them without an ascent 
or descent often perpendicular feet. From this may be imagined 
the romantic beauty of the valleys which intervene: not a tree, nor 
a shrub, nor a habitation is to be seen, save only in the fortress; 
■ — nothing but grass. The valley is one continued carpet of herb- 
age, forming, in contrast with the sterile mountains, a picturesque 
solitude, undisturbed, except during the night, by the barking of 
the wolves and other wild animals. 

I drank tea with the commandant, and called on the adminis- 
trators of the customs, to whom I had a commendatory letter. I 
found him civil, obliging, and tolerably educated, — consequently 
a rare plant in such a place. I accompanied him to view what 
is deemed an object of curiosity in this part of the world; it is a 
large sand-stone near the bank of the river, on which are imprint- 
ed the marks of the feet of a man and of a horse; they are in a 
perfect state, and to all appearance have been formed by nature, 
The heels are towards the river, the feet of the man in advance 
of those of the horse about thirty inches, very well representing 



110 B0UKHTARMINSK. 

the situation of the feet of a man holding the horse. I coulcl 
gather nothing of its origin beyond the silly tradition of the place. 
It is evident, however, from the situation of this stone, that the 
river has changed its course. 

The fortress, though it maintains a commandant, with a garri- 
son of three hundred men, is a miserable place, the worst along 
the whole frontier line; nor is the village better. The Kirgeese 
commit great havoc among the cattle, stealing great numbers, of 
which not more than one half are, in any circumstances, restored. 
A considerable trade might be established at this point between 
the Russian and Chinese empires, but for the obstinacy, ignorance, 
and policy of the latter nation, w 7 ho will not change the route by 
which their forefathers travelled. The advantage of the alteration 
would be sufficiently apparent from the mere fact of the lesser 
distance from Pekin to Boukhtarma, than from that city to Kiatka 
and Tobolsk. But the main circumstance is, that by adopting 
Boukhtarminsk as the entrepot of the national commodities, no 
less than three thousand miles of land-carriage would be saved, as 
on both sides the produce might go the whole distance betwixt St. 
Petersburg and Boukhtarma by sea: the effect to both would evi- 
dently be a very considerable saving, principally indeed to the 
Russians, on which account the Chinese would rather waive their 
own advantage than consent to the arrangement. 

Against this measure it is argued, that the government of Irkutsk 
would be materially injured. This is by no means clear; and 
even if true, the benefit of the public should not be put in compe- 
tition with that of half a dozen rich merchants, who might still 
maintain a trade to supply all Farther and Central Siberia. The 
Russian American Company must be rather benefited than injur- 
ed by the measure; and in short all the difference to Russia would 
be, that its European dominions would be supplied with the pro- 
ductions of China at twenty per cent, less than at present. The 



VORONIA. Ill 

Russian government appear to have had this project in contempla- 
tion, though they have not persevered; a few silks, bricks of tea, 
and tobacco, being the only articles entered since the erection of 
a custom-house. No doubt can exist of the advantages arising 
from so local and beautiful a situation; it would have the effect of 
making the banks of the Irtish, from its source to Tobolsk, one of 
the most valuable, fertile, and beautiful districts in the universe. 
Settlers would come from all parts of the world to establish them- 
selves on its boundless tracts of corn and pasture lands. Switzer- 
land has been called free, but will scarcely bear comparison with 
a country which has no human inhabitant. Nor is the climate 
bad, 18° of Reaumur's being the extreme; and winter, which be- 
gins in November, ending in April. 

Having procured a guide, 1 left Boukhtarma for the line of de- 
marcation on the Chinese and Russian frontiers. I first crossed 
the stream which gives name to the fortress, and then over a good 
path, entered upon a most romantic country, near the village of 
Voronia. It is impossible, without a poetical imagination, to con- 
ceive the beauties of such a country; the magnificent and bold 
sterile precipices which are seen rising from the great level pas- 
ture base, are, I should think, quite unparalleled; and the noble 
Irtish forcing its way amongst the numerous islands near this part 
of the river, adds to the majesty of the scene. At the village, 
among other similar luxuries, I was treated with wild currants, 
mellons, casisa, " milk, and honey." Surely this is the natural 
place for the habitation of man. The banks of the river are in- 
dented with numerous well formed artificial caves, used as ice 
cellars. Fifteen miles farther I reached the picturesque village 
of Cheremshanka, remarkable as a great breeding place for cattle; 
thence along the banks of the Irtish, on a good path, over a well 
cultivated corn country, I passed Krasni-yarki, and at eight in the 



112 CHINESE SETTLEMENT. 






evening reached Macaria, on the banks of the Ndrym, a small 
stream uniting with the Irtish, in an abundant and fertile valley. 

The night was so beautiful, the moon just ascending above the 
hills, that in spite of a good supper, which was ready and inviting 
my attack, I resumed my journey on horseback, in company with 
the landlord, to Malaya-Narymka, the last Russian spot on the 
frontier. An officer and a few men placed here, are all that are 
left to mark the boundaries of two such mighty empires as Russia 
and China. I forded the little stream which forms the actual 
limit, and seating myself on a stone on the left bank, was soon lost 
in a reverie. It was about midnight; the moon, apparently full, 
was near her meridian, and seemed to encourage a pensive incli- 
nation. What can surpass that scene I know not. Some of the 
loftiest granite mountains spreading in various directions, enclos- 
ing some of the most luxuriant valleys in the world; yet all desert- 
ed! — all this fair and fertile tract abandoned to wild beasts, merely 
to constitute a neutral territory! 

To the first Chinese settlement it is eighty miles; I would fain 
have visited it, but durst not without previous notice, and for this 
ceremony could ill spare the time. Formerly their advanced post 
was where I am writing this account, and I felt something like 
pleasure to find myself within the celestial empire. Their guard 
was it seems removed by the Court of Pekin, from jealousy of her 
subjects holding any converse with foreigners. The commanding 
officer is a banished mandarin, who is compelled to live like the 
soldiers, being denied both money and assistance from his friends; 
but as the post is generally occupied by a person who has been 
condemned to death for some great crime, he is fain to accept his 
pardon on condition of serving ten years as chief of the guard. 
They have, I was informed, a neat village, with abundance of meat 
and vegetables, besides wild fruits. 

At peep of dawn I recrossed the Narym, and getting a canoe 



THE BOUKHTARMA, IIS 

floated down to my deserted supper at Makaria, which the hostess 
had been desired by my companion to keep hot. I reached it at 
four in (he morning, having been carried along by the stream with 
dangerous velocity. After some refreshment, I again entered the 
canoe, receiving a brick of tea, and a pound of tobacco from my 
obliging host. He is a voluntary settler; with twenty men under 
his command, who are all accumulating properly. The velocity 
of the Irtish soon carried me past Krasni-yarki, and I reached 
Boukhtarma at three in the morning of the following day, if pos- 
sible still more delighted with the prospect; the ever changing va- 
riety of the banks is as rich as the beauty of the inland scenery. 
The left banks are generally bold and lofty precipices crowned 
with wood, while the right is a low, but beautiful plain, studded 
with rocky hills, and abounding in corn and hay. 

The recrossing of the Boukhtarma was certainly a hazardous 
adventure. The passage is never attempted but in the day time, 
as there are many shifting sand banks, and a tremendous cross cur- 
rent or rapid to avoid. This is occasioned by four currents meet- 
ing at the same point of the Irtish, near to the fortress; and so 
rapid is the collected stream that nothing but poling the canoe can 
cross it, and if once the boat be brought within the vortex of the 
centre, nothing can save it from being swamped. 

It was with great difficulty that I prevailed on any of the Cos- 
sacks, who, at the best, are but indifferent boatmen, to take me 
across. After great toil and risk we reached in safety:— the fault 
was clearly mine had any accident occurred, but I was too impa- 
tient at the moment, either to weigh the matter or to listen to re- 
monstrance. 

Arriving early, I roused up my old friend the collector of the 
customs, with whom I breakfasted and dined. The place is con- 
sidered unhealthy, owing to the foulness of the water of the Boukh- 
tarma; a mischief one would think easily remedied by the proxi- 
P 



IJ4 THE IRTISH. 

iaity of the Irtish, which is only two miles distant; but here Rus 
sian indolence supersedes most conveniences. I was informed that 
reindeer abound in the mountains, which also contain some sheep. 
The horns of the former are considered valuable, fetching two and 
three guineas a pair: when very young, the Chinese purchase them 
and extract a favourite medicine; the younger the animal who has 
shed the horns, the greater the value. All sorts of diet were too 
cheap to be named, enough to hold out reasonable inducements to 
emigrate thither. 

After dinner I embarked for Ustkamenogorsk, upon the Boukh- 
tarma, descending which I rapidly entered the Irtish, a noble river. 
The crew of the boat offered up thanks for their safe arrival: we 
had come through a close and mountainous bluff valley, and cer- 
tainly there was something terrific in the passage. I need not ob- 
serve that I was myself thankful, as really the mixing with mili- 
tary sailors was far from pleasant. At midnight when we had 
reached fifty miles, several fishing boats joined company; we left 
them, however, with courier haste, and I reached the fortress at 
six in the morning, having been about ten hours descending a dis- 
tance of ninety miles. The scenery from Narym to Boukhtarma 
and Ustkamenogorsk, a distance of one hundred and sixty miles, 
is upon the whole truly beautiful, though not a habitation is to be 
seen along the banks, which are lofty eminences, divided by tre- 
mendous and perpendicular ravines; there are, however, many de- 
lightful and romantic situations, but no means of holding a commu- 
nication along the banks of the river, except by boats. Wild fowl 
are in the utmost abundance, as observed before when speaking 
of Tobolsk. 

Of the value of the Irtish, I need say nothing, it speaks for it- 
self. Holding an almost uninterrupted communication from the 
frontiers of China, to the frozen sea, a steam boat might go from 
Boukhtarma to Tobolsk in a few days, and return in twice the 



USTKAMENOGORSK. 115 

time. Wood for fire is plentiful, and many establishments might 
be formed for the preparing and felling of it; while a water com- 
munication is ready formed with the Caspian, Baltic, and White 
Seas, and thence down even to Tobolsk. The soil which is a 
black mould, is exceedingly rich. It is to Boukhtarma that colonies 
of Scotch should be sent, and indeed such was the intention of the 
Emperor Paul, but it was set aside upon the breaking out of a war, 
and has not since been resumed, though there is no doubt that, at 
this moment, such settlers would be both protected and encouraged. 

At Ustkamenogorsk I again partook of the hospitality of the 
commandant, a Frenchman: his name is Delancourt, and he has 
been thirty-five years in Siberia doing any thing or nothing; be- 
ing one of those feeble but respectable individuals, of which there 
are several, that are supported by the liberality of the Russian 
government. In him I saw the first instance of a Frenchman's 
forgetting his own country; he seemed entirely divested of the 
patriotic affection, which that fickle nation are supposed to possess, 
but which perhaps generally exists more in appearance than in 
reality, as wherever a Frenchman can do best, there he will 
settle. 

I asked him if he ever intended to return to France, his reply 
was, that " France was nothing to him." I asked him, why? he 
looked at his wife and large family of marriageable daughters, 
shrugged up his shoulders, and said, " Que voulez vous que j'y 
fasse," and heaving a sigh, left the room. Yet in spite of his teeth, 
he was still a Frenchman, for the first words upon his return were, 
" Ma pauvre France." I had touched a tender string, and 
although he is now resigned to his fate, he says that he has been 
a " bete" for marrying, and begetting an entail which he cannot 
quit. His society, during the few hours that I enjoyed it, was 
very agreeable. 

In the early part of the evening I again embarked on the Irtish 



116 ZMEYEVA. 

for Ubinsk, the distance being eighty miles, — yet I arrived there 
early in the morning. The view of the country is various, the 
prospect more pleasant and open than higher up, and some prettily 
scattered hills on the plain, which attended me for thirty miles-, 
when the banks of the river became low and flat, and except some 
hills, very distant to the west, every thing reminded me that I bad 
again entered upon the steppe desert. I enjoyed an hospitable 
and wholesome breakfast, even at such a dirty place as Ubinsk: 
indeed it presented nothing of interest but the good and modest 
looks of its female inhabitants. I procured a Cossack to attend 
me to Barnaoule, distance two hundred and twenty miles; the first 
station towards which was to Chamanai, twenty-five miles, over 
corn fields, and along the right bank of the Ulba, which I was 
now more fortunate in crossing than before, the large ferry boat 
having been repaired. Passed a large silver mining village called 
Michailofsky;— the country becoming hilly and barren, except on 
the banks of the river. One occurrence in this district powerfully 
recalled me to Europe, for I dined at a public house, and was ex- 
pected to pay for my dinner, the first time since my arrival in 
Siberia. But the place is so great a thoroughfare, that it is here 
a considerable business to prepare provisions for the thousands of 
carters who are employed in transporting the ore to Kolyvan and 
Zmeyeva. 

To the next station is a good road of twenty miles over a well 
cultivated country. On the second day I reached Zmeyeva, twenty 
miles farther, through heavy rains and over a hilly country. It is 
an uncivil and inhospitable place. I arrived at near ten o'clock, 
exceedingly wet and fatigued, and presenting myself to the police 
master, was sent to three lodgings, all of which refused me from 
my distressed appearance. I again returned to the police, and 
seating myself down on the door-steps, raining as it was, made 
my supper of melons and bread, with a glass of spirit from the 



THE KOLYVAN. 117 

kabak: in this condition I was found by the police master, who 
had heard of my being refused entrance. He accompanied me to 
the master of the house, whom he reprimanded, and actually turn- 
ed the owners out of the best room to make accommodation for 
me. I felt averse to such a conduct, yet knowing the custom of 
the country, and feeling what a night it was; I would not interfere, 
and therefore, after partaking of tea, which in this country is soon 
provided, lay down with my Cossack, — a mere useless fellow. 

Next morning I found the master and mistress of the house as 
civil as they had been the reverse, providing me with all I wanted, 
and even begging me not to be angry at their unintentional error. 
Zmeyeva is a large, but scattered place, next in rank to Bamaoule. 
in the Government of Kolyvan. It numbers from five to six thou- 
sand inhabitants, ali in thriving circumstances. It has many valua- 
ble silver and copper mines in its neighbourhood, and a considera- 
ble government establishment is kept up for their use, and for re- 
ducing the ore to silver, which is said to be found here purer than 
in any other part of the government; but I did not wait to view 
the works, being anxious to reach Barnaoule. Arrived at Saukas, 
I discharged the Cossack as a saucy and useless fellow, who had 
flattered himself I could not do without him. In general they are 
more plague than profit: though I am willing to make allowance 
for the unpleasantness of travelling with a capricious stranger, 
and this too in rainy weather, and over bad roads, without being 
permitted to ride but at his pleasure. In the evening I reached 
the river Kolyvan, beyond which is a romantic looking country, 
inhabited by a wild Rashkolnick race, who seemed inclined to try 
how long I could travel without food. They are descendants of 
a people banished by the empress Catherine from Poland, about 
the time of the second dismemberment in 1789. I was however 
fortunate in getting a lodging at the abode of an old soldier who 
had lost both his legs, although the rest of the society consisted of 



1 IS KALMANKA. 

fifteen ironed convicts, bound to the mines of Nertchiftsk as de- 
serters from the mines of Kolyvan. I was too glad to get any 
where from the inclemency of the weather, and Rashcolnicks, to 
feel much care about my present company. 

I reached the fifth station over a flat pasture plain, passing and 
meeting the greatest variety of vehicles which I have ever seen 
converted to one use, all of which are employed between the 
mines and Barnaoule in carrying the earth and ores. — The com- 
mon telega, canoes, coffins, covered carts, and waggons are alike 
occupied: the covered carts belong to the government, and are used 
expressly for conveying the more valuable specimens. I enquired 
into the condition of the people, but could only learn that he who 
had most horses and carts was best off. Having crossed the little 
river Aley, I was hospitably entertained at the sixth station by 
the elder of the village, whose mother is a German; we contrived 
to be intelligible to one another, and he was so good as to send me 
with his horses the next morning to the eighth station, near forty 
miles of abominable and slippery roads. I got to the river Ka- 
tounya, at the ninth station, and crossing by a decent wooden 
bridge, entered a fine open country, the Obe flowing majestically 
in the fore ground. Cultivation was conspicuous in every direc- 
tion; and immense forests bound the distant horizon. At Kal- 
manka I was almost knocked up and tortured with an insufferable 
headach, my very eyes seemed a plague to me; I was, in short, 
so ill as to refuse all nourishment. Fortune threw me into the 
habitation of an old, civil and humane man, who seeing my con- 
dition, kindly put me into his own bed, giving me also some warm 
tea, and a couple of fox blankets. I slept well, and arose next 
morn in every respect, except weakness, as if nothing had ailed 
me. 

With my knapsack on my shoulders I again bade adieu to my 
host, and reached Barnaoule in the afternoon, eighteen miles: the 



BARNAOULE. 119 

neighbouring country one vast pasture, enlivened by some fine 
wood, and villages enclosed within cultivated lands. Upon near- 
ing the city the soil becomes changed from a black mould to heavy 
sand, and the face of the country is converted to a thick forest of 
pine and fir. Descending the hill to the south-west of the city, it 
has a neat and remarkably regular appearance, being situated on 
the Obe, just at the point where the little river Barnaoule enters 
it. I waited upon the police master, procured comfortable lodg- 
ings, passed the night well, and then paid my respects to his Ex- 
cellency, the Governor (Froloff), who, with his amiable lady, 
shewed me every attention during my stay, and insisied upon my 
making their house my home. 

The Governor was good enough to accompany me to the differ" 
ent public works, all of which I found in the best state, and was 
highly gratified at the inspection. Indeed the order and proper 
feeling of the government of Barnaoule might be made a proverb; 
the work in the mines, and all the departments, being carried on 
day and night. The silver metal is wrought into ingots, and in 
that state forwarded to St. Petersburg; but the copper ore is coin- 
ed to pay the salaries of the officers and workmen. The money 
of Barnaoule is far superior in workmanship to that of Ekatherine- 
bourg. There are thirty-two mines belonging to the Emperor, antl 
more are continually discovered, so that the whole district may be 
said to be silver. They yield, upon an average, twelve hundred 
poods of metal, which, in consideration of some gold mixed with 
it, is equal to four millions and a half of roubles, or two hundred 
thousand pounds, no trifling return to Russia from so small a pro- 
vince. The expenses of the establishment, including the mainte- 
nance of the officers, &c. is about one million and a half of rou- 
bles; which is nearly defrayed by the taxes, duties, and tributes 
paid by the Kalmucks and Kirgeese from the southward. The 



120 BARNAOULE. 

establishment, therefore, certainly produces a clear revenue of four 
millions. 

Of eighty-two thousand inhabitants which the government con- 
tains, independent of thirteen thousand belonging entirely to the 
works, fifty-five thousand, or two-thirds are obliged to be con- 
stantly at work, that is, during twelve hours out of the twenty-four; 
the first week during the night, and the second during the day, 
and so on. The third week is a period allotted for the working of 
their lands, and this they owe to the goodness and humanity of the 
present chief, who has in many respects ameliorated the condition 
of the unfortunates under him, and who, it will be recollected, are 
like those at Ekatherinebourg, not criminals, but peasants belong- 
ing to the emperor. 

The wages and profits derived from this very hard work, carried 
on day and night, is almost too triflng to name; but a little reflection 
will show that their condition is far from wretched. Their direct 
profits depend upon their actual labour, as he who has most horses, 
or carries most loads from the mines to Barnaoule, receives most 
money. They have also ample lime to work their lands, and reap 
abundance of corn and vegetables. Scarcely any full grown man 
can be found who has not two or three horses, and as many horn- 
ed cattle, employed during the season in carrying the ore, for which 
they receive at the rate of thirteen copecks the pood, — one penny 
farthing for thirty-six pounds. Many of them prefer this employ- 
ment, and are actually able to save considerable sums of money 
in it, especially those who have many horses. The plan is this: — 

The journey from Zmeyeva to Barnaoule occupies nine days, 
and allowing the same time for rest and returning, eighteen days 
are consumed in lodging twenty poods of earth, which is the ave- 
rage of each horse; and as each pood pays thirteen and a half co- 
pecks, he receives two hundred and sixty-five copecks, or about two 
shillings, — a sum here sufficient to maintain one person in bread 



BARNAOULE. 121 

and meat for thirty days, at the rate of one pound and a half of 
meat and three pounds of bread a- day. This calculation is on the 
supposition that each driver manages but one cart, when in fact 
they sometimes have the charge of ten and fifteen, the profits of 
one half of which are equal to a rouble a-day, a sum sufficient to 
maintain at least ten people in bread and meat, — to say nothing 
of their other means in the produce of two days' extra work in 
each week. But this is not all: many of the carters, who do 
the work of others, receive one hundred and fifty roubles a-year 
for that service; no question can therefore possibly arise of the 
flourishing state of ihe government of Kolyvan. 

The quantity of earth brought to the works of Barnaoule in the 
course of the year, is four millions of poods. Each pood produc- 
ing one rouble of clear profit, gives the revenue already stated; 
two per cent, is added for the quantity of gold, and seven for the 
value of copper, two hundred and fifty thousand roubles of which 
are coined. The carriage of so immense a quantity of earth is 
about half a million of roubles, or twenty-five thousand pounds, or 
one-third of the whole expense of the government of Kolyvan. 
Twelve thousand horses and oxen are employed, and about fifteen 
hundred labourers, — an average of eight horses to each. 

The quantity of cultivated land is two hundred and fifty thou- 
sand English acres, from which one million and a quarter of poods 
of flour are produced, belonging entirely to the peasantry. The 
produce of vegetables is also wonderful, and the immense herds of 
cattle keep down meat at a very low price. That of provisions 
was as follows: — white bread, seldom used, sixty copecks, or six- 
pence, for forty pounds; ordinary bread, that used by all classes, 
threepence for forty pounds; excellent beef, fifteen pence for 
forty pounds, or two pounds for three farthings; and vegetables, 
eggs, milk, butter, &c. for the merest trifle. House rent is very 
cheap, and society is good. The town is well and regularly built, 
Q 



122 BARNAOULE. 

having many handsome edifices of brick as well as of wood. It is 
upon the whole a most desirable place for residence. The city 
contains about eight thousand inhabitants; and although the situa- 
tion is not particularly beautiful, it has still many advantages, be- 
ing placed in a noble forest, which serves at once for building and 
firing. There is a neat promenade in its only square, which is 
likely to be much frequented. The governor depends solely on 
the cabinet, to whom, as at Ekatherinebourg and Nertchinsk, the 
reports are made; not even the Governor-general can interfere. It 
may be compared in rank with a vice-governorship. 

Upon my arrival, I found great preparations making to receive 
his Excellency Mr. Speranski, the Governor-general, who was 
making the circuit of the government to inquire into all abuses, 
being possessed with unlimited powers. His Excellency arrived 
in the course of the second day, and was received with the respect 
due to his rank, integrity, and virtues. Two sumptuous dinners 
were given by the chief of the district, the gardens were illuminat- 
ed, balls were assembled, and every one was happy. I of course 
shone a conspicuous object — indeed I was honoured with the friend- 
ship and confidence of both those gentlemen. Of General Spe- 
ranski I will only say, that I have never seen more true greatness 
of soul, or goodness of heart. There is in him a certain conde- 
scension and affability, and at the same time a certain air of no- 
bility, that strikes all who approach him with awe and respect. 
Of his personal attentions to me, I shall ever feel proud and grate- 
ful. He had at first taken me for a Raskolnick, from my long 
beard, and longer golden locks: notwithstanding I wore at the 
same time a long swaddling grey nankeen coat, and a silken sash 
round my waist, but indeed so great a buck had I become of late, 
that I hardly knew myself. As to my shoes they were better than, 
new, although seven years had elapsed from the time that Baron 
Bode had first used them. 



BAZIKOFKA. 123 

To return however to the Governor-general. He told me that 
there was an expedition on the river Kolyma, fitted out purposely 
to solve the question regarding the north-east cape of Asia; and 
his Excellency kindly offered me his permission to proceed with 
it. Too glad to accept a favour of the kind, I instantly closed 
with the offer, and determined not to wait a moment in Irkutsk 
and Yakutsk, beyond the necessary time, but to proceed immedi- 
ately to the Frozen Sea, either to share the fortune good or bad 
of the expedition, or, in case of any impediment from jealousy, to 
withdraw and follow some other plan. The Governor-general sup- 
plied me with various orders and recommendations for whatever 
places I should visit, as also an open order " To the Judges of 
towns and provinces, to the Members of the provincial courts of 
justice, and to all Commissaries in the government of all Siberia," 
recommending " that the bearer, Captain John Cochrane of the 
British Royal Navy, now travelling through Siberia, should obtain 
every lawful protection, defence, and hospitality, and that every 
aid within the power of the towns and provinces should be afford- 
ed him, in case he should stand in need of them." 

With the above paper and a Cossack, 1 departed from a town 
which I still think the happiest, the best governed, and neatest in 
Siberia, for Tomsk. Taking the road towards Gumba through ten 
miles of sandy and thickly wooded country, along the left bank of 
the Obe, I crossed that river the next day, on my way to Osokeena. 
There are in the neighbourhood some silver pits, and some lakes, 
but no cultivation whatever. I reached the fifth station on the se- 
cond day, constantly in a thick forest of noble pine, passing many 
lakes, as well as small rivers, all uniting with the Obe. On ar- 
riving at Wasiugan my Cossack gave me a proof of his utility by 
getting drunk, and losing his pipe and his cap as well as his senses, 
in which state therefore I left him to shift for himself. 

Upon reaching Bazikofka, the country improves, and the vil- 



124 TOMSK. 

lages are pleasantly distributed. The inhabitants were all shiver- 
ing with the cold, though wrapped up in furs, while I, in my nan- 
keen, experienced no inconvenience. The view of the country 
did not change until I reached Prosokova, where some well culti- 
vated hills make their appearance. My Cossack overtook me, 
and after many professions of contrition, obtained his pardon, — 
and got drunk immediately upon the strength of it. At Verushina 
I got sight of the Tom, winding over a well cleared country, but 
sadly bare of inhabitants. I was again overhauled for contraband 
goods. From thence to Tomsk are thirty miles, where I arrived 
early the following morning. In the latter part, the country bore 
the appearance of a desert; wood had disappeared, and cultivation 
had ceased, although the road was fine. 

I presented myself to the Vice<-governor, brother-in-law to Mr. 
Berg of Perm, and Mr. Rosing of Tobolsk, my former hosts. Here 
also 1 got well lodged, after which I called on bis Excellency the 
Governor Illichefsky, with whom, and his amiable family, I passed 
my time pleasantly. The Governor presented me with fifty rou- 
bles, a watch, a pair of spectacles, and some few articles of wear- 
ing apparel, making part of the effects of which I had been robbed 
neat St. Petersburg, thus verifying my observation to the Governor 
of Novgorod, that the robbers would be found, but not before I had 
reached the heart of Siberia, where I now was. 

Tomsk is a city and capital of a province of the same name, 
containing five hundred thousand inhabitants, while there are about 
nine thousand in the city, which, in spite of several churches, and 
many handsome edifices, public and private, is a most miserable 
place, yet showing every hospitality and kindness to travellers and 
strangers. The society also, is, I am afraid, bad, owing to the bad 
example from those whose rank and situation should produce other 
effects on their inferiors. The town is on the right bank of the 
Tom, near its source, at the foot of a hill which protects it from 






TOMSK. 125 

the north-east and south-east winds. During May and June it is 
greatly subject to inundation from the river. 

Tomsk has a military school with four hundred students, back- 
ward enough in their education, as also a provincial college with- 
out masters or scholars, though a considerable revenue is attached 
to it. Indeed, the only praiseworthy object is a very neat public 
garden, -in which is a building for balls, dinners, and the like; and 
on this day, 30th August, both were to be held in honour of the 
Emperor's name day. ' I declined the invitation to this fete from 
anxiety to get to my ulterior destination. Of the five hundred 
thousand inhabitants, about eighty thousand pay taxes. The gross 
revenue is, I believe, three millions of roubles, nearly the whole 
of which is necessary to support the government, thus yielding 
little or no return to the Emperor. It appears useless as a govern- 
ment, its best service being to keep the roads in repair, and to 
mark the half way between Tobolsk and Irkutsk. 

While the province of Kolyvan, at present independent, was at- 
tached to the government, it made indeed some returns, but that 
branch being lopped off, the parties in office, high and low, appear 
to have given up all idea of being of service, and have since done 
less than nothing. 

Except in point of territory, Tomsk does not appear an eligible 
place as the seat of a government, which it would certainly be 
preferable to remove to Yakutsk, dividing the intervening space 
between Tobolsk and Irkutsk, deducting from the latter all beyond 
Kirenga on the Lena, and from the former, all west of the Irtish 
and Tobol, and only south to Ishim; creating Ekatherinebourg and 
Barnaoule into distinct governments, so that the boundaries of the 
latter should be all the country south of the great road. Yakutsk 
would then be the most extensive government in point of territory, 
holding the command even of Kamtchatka, instead of Irkutsk, as 
at present. The duty of a governor of Irkutsk, and that of a vice- 



126 KOLIONSKAYA. 

governor are much too great to be united; and no possibility exists 
of completing any year's accounts within the year. 

I witnessed at Tomsk the sale of thirty tolerable sized bullocks 
for four hundred and eighty roubles, or about eighteen pounds ster- 
ling; excepting only at Mexico, I have never seen another such in- 
stance of cheapness and plenty. The province, however, does 
not produce much bread, being too cold and exposed; that com- 
modity may therefore be deemed dear at its present price of a 
rouble (or ten-pence) for forty pounds. I departed for Irkutsk, in 
company with a Cossack, and furnished with a discretionary au- 
thority to procure horses, as also an open order for every attention 
to be shewn to me. I passed over a dreary and woodless flat 
waste, until I reached Kolionskaya, eighty miles. The villages 
had been numerous, but miserable in the extreme, excepting those 
inhabited by Tartars. They are Mahomedans, and like those of 
Tobolsk and Tara, of the Kazan race. From Kolionskaya, the 
country appears to rise a little, but the road was most execrable, 
nay, almost impassable either by man or horse. The wood is now 
of tolerable size; birch, fir, larch, pine, and poplar; but there is 
little or no cultivation, and no appearance of industry, the inhabi- 
tants being a lazy set of exiled Russians. The care of cattle and 
the raising a few vegetables, together with the transport of mer- 
chandise for the merchants, almost exclusively engage their atten- 
tion, when they are not employed in drinking, and the women 
have quite enough to do to find provisions and clothes. 

Such was my route the next day to Krasnoretchinsky, one hun- 
dred miles. Almost each village is favoured with a small river, 
many of them with considerable ones; yet the road has little or no 
interest, and the villages composed of half-finished huts. From 
Batoya my journey was rendered unpleasant, through a misunder- 
standing with my Cossack, who, meeting with an old crony, had 
requested to stay supper. I consented, being hungry, under the 



KRASNOJARSK. 127 

expectation of being asked to partake; but rinding myself disap- 
pointed, I hurried away. He followed, grumbling, and giving me 
at intervals a good deal of impertinence, — a thing, I must confess, 
very rarely tolerated in Russia. Next day I reached Atchinsk, 
pleasantly situate on the banks of the Tchulym, in a hilly coun- 
try, with its two costly churches, some good houses, and two thou- 
sand five hundred inhabitants. It can yet barely be called a 
town; it is at least a very miserable one. 

I proceeded through it and many villages, till I reached Kras- 
noyarsk, distant eighty miles, over a road, with little exception, 
almost impassable; that part which lies between Chornaretsk to 
Malokemtchoutska is so bad, that I know of no better punishment 
to call the faculties of the director-general of the roads into exer- 
tion, than making him ride the distance of fifty miles every day 
in a telega; if that did not recall him to his duty, I think nothing 
could, — at all events, it would be no sinecure. For my own part, 
my bones were so shaken, that I preferred walking. The stages 
are also too long; a fault, however, in the course of remedy, as 
new villages are springing up at every eight and ten miles. 

At Bolchei Kemtchoutska, I met the caravan with teas, silks, 
and nankeens from the Chinese frontiers bound to Moscow, con- 
sisting of some hundreds of carts. The hilly country continues 
as far as Zeledeyeva, to which place it is a dreary wild; but 
thence a fine open country begins, the hills to the north-east ex- 
hibiting a laborious cultivation even to their summits. 

It was five in the evening when I entered Krasnojarsk veiled 
like a nun — no bad remedy against the effects of the mosquitoes; 
and although the appearance seemed strange to me, I persisted in 
following this custom of the natives. The last stage upon ap- 
proaching this city is richly luxuriant on both sides; with the Ye- 
nissey rolling its picturesque course over a soil rich and well culti- 
vated, and the vicinity may boast situations for the dwellings of a 



12S KLIUTCHKY. 

prince, peasant, or philosopher, — the little river Katcha winds at 
the foot of She north-western hil% and, uniting with the Yenissey, 
forms an interesting object. The town stands at their junction, on 
a low flat sandy peninsula, and from the course which the river is 
now taking, threatens in time to completely inundate it, the prin- 
cipal church, which formerly stood in the centre of the town, be- 
ing now actually in the water. 

The Emperor Paul had it in contemplation to plant here also 
a Scotch colony, but the project, like that before mentioned, was 
set aside. His successor Alexander has attempted in vain, to fol- 
low up a plan every way so desirable; first to the individual emi- 
grants, tvho would enjoy fine lands, with few taxes and a free ex- 
ercise of their religion; and secondly to the Russian government, 
as they would have thereby become possessed of individuals skill- 
ed in the process of agriculture in general, who would have fur- 
nished the most valuable examples of industry and economy. The 
town is said to contain three thousand males, but the site is con- 
sidered unwholesome, owing to the vapours which rise from the 
Yenissey. The extremes of heat and cold, are from thirty-two 
degrees of heat, to forty of frost — fevers are prevalent in the 
town, but in the neighbouring valleys the air is mild and whole- 
some. These valleys abound in fine timber. 

I was hospitably entertained by the police master, who supplied 
me with bread, rum, tobacco, tea, and sugar, sufficient to last me 
to Irkutsk. Crossing the Yenissey, which is a quarter of a mile 
broad, I reached Kanskoy, about one hundred and thirty miles, 
over a tolerable road, and in many parts well cultivated country; 
the villages are scattered at every ten and fifteen miles, but there 
are few dwellings off the great road. At Kliutchy my Cossack 
exercised his high powers in giving the elder of the village a 
sound flogging, for his dilatoriness in providing him with a horse; 
this power is vested in the Cossacks by a Guslom of long standing, 



IRKUTSK, 129 

but which calls loudly for redress, — in the end I arranged the mat- 
ter by giving the old man a glass at the kabak. 

At Kanskoy I dined with the commissary, late a schoolmaster, 
who spoke the French language. He presented me with a consi- 
derable curiosity, being part of the jaw bone of a mammoth. I 
drank tea with the chief of the farmers, a genteel young man, twice 
a widower, who has a good house and better furniture. Conti- 
nuing my route, I soon arrived at the frontiers of the province of 
Irkutsk, which is divided from that of Tomsk by the river Kan, 
which might with some propriety, be denominated Styx, as the 
convicts who cross it, generally remain for life. Should they de- 
sert and be brought back again, their punishment is indeed severe, 
being liable to all the penalties which by the laws of England 
might be inflicted upon an outlaw. The peasants are naturally 
on the look-out for them, and by force of cudgelling, attended with 
the application of the epithet " varnack," or " base fellow," com- 
pel them to return. The term has been said to be used in allu- 
sion to Yermak the conqueror, but I shall not attempt to decide 
the point. 

Upon entering the government of Irkutsk, the weather became 
cold and windy, or what is here called a Boorea, being, on the 
authority of the schoolmaster, derived from the Greek word of the 
same import, — to an explanation of which I was obliged in cour- 
tesy to listen, before I could be allowed to move. Having got 
clear, I continued my route to Ingashe, the largest, neatest, and 
most regular village I have ever seen. The improvement, upon 
entering the government of Irkutsk, is indeed wonderful. The 
attention, regularity, and order, as well as cleanliness, every where 
to be seen, reflect the highest credit on the police and late Gover- 
nor of Irkutsk. This gentleman has however been superseded and 
arrested by the Governor-general Speranski, and is now under 
trial at St. Petersburg upon very serious charges. I saw many 
R 



130 IRKUTSK. 

instances of the excellent state of the police, even in the villages 
on the high road; neither dog, nor horse, nor cart, nor any species 
of manure, being allowed to remain in the streets, scarcely even 
for a moment. The inhabitants of these villages are mostly exiles 
for minor offences, and are settled in villages on the high road, 
and compelled to pay yasack, or the Siberian poll-tax. 

As I proceeded, the road improved, and the country appeared 
more fertile and picturesque; much fine limber is everywhere to 
be seen, the ground still continuing on a gentle ascent, and I 
reached Nishney, viz. Lower Udinsk, receiving every hospitality 
possible. It is a small but rather a neat town, of three thou- 
sand inhabitants, pleasantly situated on the Uda, at the foot of a 
considerable range of elevated table lands. A complete forest 
of fir, birch, larch, poplar, and all such wild productions. Pass- 
ing through Kingui a Tartar village, I continued my route in ra- 
ther a melancholy mood, 

For the thoughts we cannot bridle. 
Force their way without the will, 

Amid beautiful scenery and much cultivation, a well frequented 
road, broken villages at every eight or ten miles, carried me to an 
imperial village, where there is a celebrated manufactory of cloth: 
being night I had not an opportunity of visiting it, but the clean- 
liness and beauty of all the buildings, form a strong presumption 
in its favour. 

Bilbetie is a large village at the conflux of three rivers, where 
an excellent ferry is established. I reached the last stage to Ir- 
kutsk, in high satisfaction with every thing I had seen, so superior 
to the governments of Tobolsk or Tomsk. The country, however, 
has been latterly less picturesque, being a sandy soil. On my ap- 
proach to the capital early in the morning, a thick fog hovering 
on the Angara precluded the view, till I reached the monastery 



IRKUTSK. 131 



near the river; coasting which, I suddenly observed over the dense 
atmosphere, the churches beautifully reflecting the sun's rays from 
their tin or copper casings. I crossed the ferry, and at eight in 
the morning, entered the hospitable habitation of the chief of the 
navy in the city of Irkutsk. 



132 



CHAPTER VI. 

Irkutsk — Verc'holensk — Kirenga — Vittim — Jerbat — The Tongousians— 
Olekminsk — Bistack — Yakutsk — The Lena — Meeza — Aldan — The Too- 
koslar — Baralass — The Sartar — The Bouroulak— Tabalak — The Tostak 
and Dogdoa — Kabbregah, &c. rivers — The Rasoka — The Beekhall and 
Bludenayah — The Chouboukalah, Galanimah, and Indigiuka — Zashiversk 
— Broosneekah — Sordak — The Alazea — Middle Kolyma — Malone — Nish - 
ney Kolyma, 

The commandant of the navy received me in a flattering manner 7 
and I had the offer of several other residences; but he being a sin- 
gle man, with a large government house, I was induced by these 
circumstances to stick to the profession, and take up my abode 
with him. 

Having made myself as decent as my limited wardrobe would 
allow, I called on the Vice-Governor, who made great promises, 
and exceeded them in performance. Upon quitting his Excellency 
I made some visits, and delivered my letters of recommendation, 
made inquiries as to my future movements, and then returned to 
an elegant dinner with my host, who had invited a party of twenty 
persons to meet me; indeed, the hospitality and attentions which 
were showered upon me in this stage of my journey were such as 
I may fairly say, I could have experienced in few, if any parts of 
what is called the civilized world, especially when the humbleness 
both of my appearance and pretensions is considered; even the 
ladies condescending to visit the abode of my host — a single man 



IRKUTSK. 133 

— doubtless out of respect to me. The company consisted of the 
same individuals whom I afterwards met at almost every party, 
with hardly any variation; namely, the commandant, his lady and 
sister; the colonels of artillery and infantry, with their wives; 
Captain Koutigin, a rich merchant, who farms the sale of spirits, 
and his wife; the head of the Russian American Company, with 
his wife and two daughters; and a Mr. Hedenstrom and wife, who 
had travelled on discovery across the Frozen Sea, in 1809 — 10 
and — 11. Besides these, the parties were enlivened by the com- 
pany of doctors, secretaries, and half a dozen young civil officers, 
being in the highest rank of society. I retired from the first day's 
fete at an early hour, thankful for the many favours so liberally 
heaped upon me. 

Nest morning, in company with Captain Koutigin, I left the 
Admiralty House, which is two miles from the city, to view what- 
ever is notable in Irkutsk. The number of them is small, and 
they are widely scattered. Fifteen thousand inhabitants, includ- 
ing three thousand of the military, are said to compose the popu- 
lation. Irkutsk indeed scarcely deserves the name of city, except 
for its public buildings, which are good; yet, though I confess it is 
upon the whole a fine town, I could not but feel disappointment 
from its total want of original plan, as well as its present want of 
regularity, which must retard its advancement for a long time to 
come. Tobolsk is certainly its superior in every thing except its 
situation, and the singularly fine appearance of a few buildings, 
public and private. The streets are wide, and run at right angles, 
but there are in some of them gaps of two and three hundred 
yards without a building. Yet are there many fine points of view: 
and when it is considered that Irkutsk has been raised into a go- 
vernment and city only within these forty years, its progress to- 
wards improvement must be acknowledged. The houses are for 



134 IRKUTSK. 

the greater part of wood, though many are of brick, and construct" 
ed on a superior style of architecture. 

Of the churches there are at least a dozen, which not a little 
contribute to the splendour of its appearance; and though they boast 
of but very few relics, I feel certain that their bishop fulfils his 
functions as creditably as any other man of the profession. His 
Eminence did me the pleasure to invite me to a public breakfast, 
given in honour of the Emperor's coronation, which I attended, 
and was highly satisfied with his conduct in every respect. 

With my friend Mr. Hedenstrom I conversed about my plans. 
He appears to be one of the ablest men in Siberia, and although 
rather under a cloud at the present moment, it is highly worthy 
of respect and consideration. He had formerly served as private 
secretary to count Romanzoflf, when that nobleman was chan- 
cellor; but either some misunderstanding or some misadventure 
occasioned his removal by the Imperial Government to another 
scene of action. He was lately commissary of the most lucrative 
quarter, as a reward for his perseverance and diligence when em- 
ployed upon the Icy Sea discoveries. I am not aware that any 
account of his services have been made known to the public, but 
I am fully sure they deserve to have been. It is only mentioning 
a part of them to say, that he has surveyed all the islands bear- 
ing the name of New Siberia, as far north as the latitude of 76, 
and has been longer and farther on the ice than any other travel- 
ler. Few men in Siberia have more general talent of any de- 
scription, and through his kindness I was favoured with a fund of 
the most interesting and important information. 

During the short period of my stay in Irkutsk, I was variously 
employed, either visiting such places as seemed most worthy of 
notice, or fixing and arranging these ill assorted recollections. I 
visited a military school, like the others upon the Lancasterian 
system, with seven hundred boys; it is doing well, which is more; 



IRKUTSK. 135 

than can be said for the institution belonging to the city; indeed, 
it is a matter of serious regret that in Russia so little prospers that 
is not backed by military influence; where the faul* lies it might 
be difficult to discover on so short an acquaintance. There is a 
mineralogical cabinet appertaining to the city institution, in which 
are deposited many magnificent specimens of the Nertchinsk 
mines. 

I visited the prison, which I found in a state that would, have 
commanded the approbation of the humane and philanthropic 
Howard. It is spacious and well ventilated, and the prisoners are 
allowed plenty of wholesome provisions. They are only chained 
when employed out of the prison, either upon public works, or in 
the removal of any nuisance. In connexion with the prison I 
may also notice a species of public manufactory, or working 
bazaar for every sort of trade: the inmates or workmen are in 
general such as have been exiled for misdemeanours, and are de- 
tained for their own and the public benefit; many of them con- 
trive to earn a considerable fortune, and all are secure of the 
benefit of full employment. The building is of wood, and be- 
longs to the city, who hire out apartments at fixed prices, retain- 
ing also a proportion of the gainings, which are appropriated to 
charitable purposes: their capital is already very considerable, and 
it is one of those public spirited and well digested schemes which 
is worthy of imitation in every civilized state, where there are 
either criminals to punish, or unfortunates to relieve. 

The exchange and public bazaars are a fine range of buildings, 
ivith a superb saloon in the centre, where public balls and mas- 
querades are held at least as often as once a fortnight during the 
long winters, besides numerous private balls. 

Of society there is but little, but that little is good, mostly Ger- 
man. At a public ball given in honour of the coronation, I count- 
ed seventy ladies, yet this was considered as a very small number 



136 IRKUTSK. 

for Irkutsk, as they sometimes muster on such occasions, from two 
to three hundred. The truth is, with the exception of the. ladies 
J have before named, most of the fair sex belong to the merchants, 
who may with propriety be termed Jew pedlars, for they deny 
themselves and their wives almost every comfort, save that of a 
public and ostentatious dress, from a spirit of opposition and vin- 
dictive feeling towards the military, who also on their side but too 
generally treat them in the same ungenerous, if not slighting and 
contemptuous manner that we do the Jews in England. A Jew 
in England, and a merchant in Russia, except in the capitals er 
sea-port cities, stand on the same level; and I may venture to say, 
that with very few exceptions, it is not consistent with etiquette, 
much less with custom, for a person of rank to dine with a mer- 
chant, unless he be mayor or farmer-general, or unless on his 
Saint's day, when it certainly is common to honour him with an 
acceptation. 

The merchants on the other hand, have as strong a feeling 
against the receiving of the military in private, as the latter can have 
against recognizing them in public. 

It is a serious evil that the sons and daughters of the merchants 
have received no better education. Many of them can scarcely 
read or write, yet they are in point of opportunity, on a par with 
those who move in the same sphere in European Russia, owing to 
the assistance rendered by the Swedes and French, and other 
exiles, many of whom possess first rate talents. 

These expatriated instructors have tended to improve and civilize 
Siberia, in a ratio surpassing that of central Russia. But many 
years must elapse, before that happy union of society so conspicu- 
ous in England, can be brought about in this part; before the 
swaddling cloak, and long beard, will be laid aside with the same 
avidity with which they are now guarded. 

My stay in Irkutsk was but a week, when, being furnished with 



KIRENGA. 1311 

a fresh Cossack, and with every assistance I desired to enable me 
to reach the river Lena, I set out, a little melancholy at parting 
with so kind friends; at seven miles I had a last view of the city. 
The country became very elevated, and the road lay over hill and 
dale as far as the fifth station. With the exception of some little 
corn, the land is one uninterrupted pasture. The inhabitants, 
Russians, are pretty numerous, and their villages, though small, 
occur at frequent intervals. The post-houses are good and con- 
venient halting places. 

Having crossed the river Lena, I soon reached Vercholensk, a 
large and populous town on the right bank, and one hundred and 
fifty miles from Irkutsk. The road is by a dangerous precipice, 
which is descended by horses at a prodigious rate; and on the 
ascent both drivers and traveller must dismount and put their 
shoulders to the wheel: yet accidents are of rare occurrence. The 
opposite bank of the river is highly cultivated and picturesque. 
The communication by land ceases here, a circumstance at which 
I was not a little rejoiced, longing to be again upon my own ele- 
ment. I soon procured a canoe and a couple of hands, who, with 
the Cossack and myself paddled down the stream for eighty 
miles, to the village of Ustillga. The banks of the river are 
lofty and well wooded, and present some agreeable scenery, 
Numerous villages with their rye fields are scattered among the 
valleys, each invariably attended by its own little stream. 

Proceeding day and night in my open canoe, I soon reached 
Kirenga. The weather was cold, the scenery, though ever chang- 
ing, was always mountainous, numerous islands were scattered 
about the river, whose stream ran at about one and a half or two 
knots per hour; I generally made one hundred to one hundred and 
twenty miles during each day's progress, and, wherever I went, 
fared well from the hospitality of the Russian colonists, as well 
as from that of my friends at Irkutsk who had provided me ac- 
S 



138 KIRENSK. 

cording to the Russian proverb, with plenty of bread and salt. 
This simple sounding provision included also some fine partridges, 
a hare, a large piece of roast beef, and a quantity of meat pies; 
not omitting wine and rum. A traveller in Russia, whether na- 
tive, or foreigner, on taking leave of his friends previous to his 
departure, uniformly finds at his lodgings all the provisions requi- 
site for his journey, with another lodging pointed out at some 
friend's for as long as he pleases. Indeed I have no doubt, as the 
sequel will justify the assertion, that a man may travel through 
the Russian empire, as long as his conduct is becoming, without 
wanting any thing — not even horses and money, excepting only 
the civilized parts between the capitals. 

The villages leading to Kirensk, are from fifteen to eighteen 
miles apart. It has the name of a city, containing near one hun- 
dred dwellings, and five hundred inhabitants, with three churches 
and a monastery, — the situation is pleasant, but not otherwise no- 
ticeable. I staid in it only a few hours, to enjoy the hospitality 
of the town major, who felt inclined to try the effect of rye brandy 
upon me. From it I had gained about five or six miles towards 
the first Tongousian village when the canoe filled, and we were 
obliged to pursue the journey by land, creeping round the bluffs, 
which jet out into them. 

Over these poor Tongousians the Cossack exercised his au- 
thority in such a manner, that I really felt as much pain as if the 
same chastisement had been inflicted upon me. The spirit of 
despotism which characterizes the Cossacks is infamous. It is 
infinitely greater, and infinitely more dreaded by the poor aborigi- 
nes, than the power of the Governor-general. On the eighth day 
I reached Vittim, which is half-way to Yakutsk. The banks of 
the river are, within the last twenty-five years, increased in popu- 
lation in the proportion of from three to five, according to a com- 
parison with Mr. Sauer's journal, which I had wiih me. Pro- 



DJERBINSKY, OR JERBAT. 139 

digious forests of wood are on each side of the river, consisting of 
pine, fir, larch, alder, and poplar; but from Kirensk all cultivation 
had ceased, except that of vegetables, and they are but scantily 
raised; cattle are, however, very plentiful, and of a fine sort, bread 
is of the same price as at Irkutsk, namely, forty pounds for two 
shillings. This is owing to the consideration of government in 
forwarding flour at their expense for the benefit and maintenance 
of the poor. 

At Vittim I was first overtaken by the ice floating down the 
river, yet not so as to incommode me; and I had enjoyed the lux- 
ury of fine autumnal, though cold weather. From Vittim to Djer- 
binsky or Jerbat are three hundred miles, which I reached in four 
days. The stages are very long, and ought to be reduced, being 
a very heavy pull when going against the stream; but indeed there 
is nothing that these hardy people will not do without murmuring. 
Sometimes the boat was so much entangled in the ice, that the 
poor fellows were compelled to strip and track her, up to their 
waists in water, while the atmosphere was at 5° of cold; I could 
perceive that they suffered a good deal in consequence, for upon 
their return to the boat, they could not tell which part of their 
body to restore first to proper animation. Their great resort, I in- 
variably found, was to a mouthful of smoke from their pipe, — not, 
however, of tobacco; the greater part at least, being birch-wood 
dust, or fine shavings, mixed with a very scanty portion of tobacco, 
the latter article being extremely dear: if to this luxury can be 
added however small a drop of brandy, they will cheerfully, and 
even thankfully, undergo the repetition of the suffering. 

At Jerbat there is a cave on the left bank of the river, much ve- 
nerated by the Yakuti. 1 ascended with great difficulty the rugged 
steep leading to it. The roof certainly presented a beautiful ap- 
pearance, being illuminated by what may figuratively be termed 
chandeliers; formed, no doubt, by the water, which making its 



140 THE T0UNG0USSAV, OR TONGOUSIANS. 

way through the apertures above, there freezes, and hangs in icicle;- 
from the top of the roof. The scene is very brilliant, but the ef- 
fect is marred by a projecting crag of rock which overhangs the 
mouth of the cave, and prevents the eye from taking any other 
Iban a horizontal view of it. The air emitted from it was the 
chilliest I had ever felt. At Jerbat is the line which divides the 
Tongousian villages from those of the Yakuti. 

The Tongousians inhabit divers parts of Siberia, equally distant 
and distinct; from the shores of the Yenissei, Lena, and Amoor, 
to those of the Ochota and Omekon, and the mountains about 
Idgiga. They are all wanderers, and rarely to be seen in any 
mechanical or subservient employment. They are classed into 
Forest and Desert Tongousi. The former occupy themselves in 
fishing and the chase, having but few rein-deer; the latter subsist 
entirely by the breeding of those animals, and wander from pas- 
ture to pasture with their flocks, tents, &c. A very few of them 
have received baptism; the rest are idolaters. Their language is 
said to be Manshur, from whom they all, no doubt, descended, as 
may be inferred by the peculiarity of their eyes, being elongated 
and far apart. They are characteristically honest and friendly, 
robbery being considered by them as unpardonable. I was my- 
self a witness of their hospitality or improvidence, for they seem 
to have no thought of the future, and therefore readily share what 
they have killed; yet it is strange that nothing will induce them 
to kill a rein-deer for their own consumption, unless the party h 
rich, till they have been eight days without food; the act is then 
considered justifiable. They bear fatigue, cold, and privations, to 
an extraordinary degree. They are sensible of, and thankful for, 
kind treatment, but will permit no one to abuse them. To strike 
a Tongousian is indeed, a great crime, and often leads to fatal con- 
sequences, as, in that case, they do not consider their word as sa- 
cred, but justifiably to be broken. They are exceedingly irascible. 



TONGOUSIANS. 141 

and can be done nothing with but by good words; and this I had 
frequent occasions of proving, through generally my own fault. 

Their persons are small and rather delicate in appearance, their 
features regular and somewhat pleasing. With these fair traits of 
character they are filthy to an extreme, eating and drinking any 
thing, however loathsome, and the effluvia of their persons is pu- 
tridity itself. They are considered good soldiers, and are excel- 
lent marksmen either with bow or rifle. The dress of either sex 
is nearly the same as that of the other Tartar nations, differing 
chiefly in their mode of ornamenting it, and consists of trowsers 
of the rein-deer skin, with the hair inside, and stockings and boots 
of the same animal; the latter made from the legs. A waistcoat 
or jacket also of leather, sometimes lined with white foxes' or with 
hare skins, supplies the place of a thick sort of short surtout-coat 
of double leather without the hair; and lastly, a single or double 
frock with hair in and outside, the two leather sides being together. 
A warm cap and large gloves, with sometimes a guard for the 
breast of white fox, called nagroodnick, viz. breast-cover, and a 
comforter round the neck formed of the tails of the squirrel: such 
is their costume, which is almost wholly furnished from the skins 
of rein-deer. Foxes' skins serve for caps and linings, and a wolf's 
is considered valuable, as the warmest of all outside garments. 
They have also a guard for the forehead, ears, nose and chin. 
Their beds are made of a bear's skin or of the large rein-deer. 
with a blanket from the same animal, lined with the warmest fur, 
and in shape like a bag, as the feet are completely enclosed; an 
axe, a knife, wooden spoon, and kettle constitute their only uten- 
sils; the first is a sine qua non, and a pipe of tobacco with a glass 
of spirits, their highest luxury. Their modes of dress, and gene- 
ral mode of living, &c. they have in common, more or less, with 
all other Siberian nations, whether the Tchukschi, Yukagires, Ko- 
riaks, Yakuti or Kamtchadales. There is no other difference 



142 YAKUTSK. 

amongst them than in the embroidery of their clothes, or the rich- 
ness or poverty of the wearers; and these I shall take occasion to 
notice in treating of a different tribe. 

Having parted wish the Tongousians, for a long time, I was de- 
livered over to the Yakuti. In three days I reached Olekminsk, 
the last thirty miles on horseback, my Cossack being quite knock- 
ed up from cold and want of exercise. I reached the place early 
in the evening and went to the abode of the Commissary, who was 
absent upon his annual excursion for the collecting of the yasack 
or tribute. His house was however made my home, and there I 
passed the following day very agreeably, his pretty interesting and 
modest daughter of fifteen doing the honours of the house. I re- 
ceived visits from the post-master, secretary, priests and merchants; 
among the latter was a young Frenchman who had been banished 
for some heavy crime, but by his subsequent good conduct had 
been admitted to the rights of a citizen, and is now carrying on 
trade at Olekminsk. 

From Olekminsk to Yakutsk is about four hundred miles, which, 
except the two last stages, I completed in the canoe. It was on 
the 1st October that I left, and the 6th when I arrived. The 
weather proved very cold, and snow fell heavily; the atmosphere 
dark, and having every appearance of winter: yet, upon the whole 
the season is considered backward, as on the 1st October the Lena 
is generally frozen over, and in three weeks more admits of tra- 
vellers with sledges; but at this time I was enabled to reach within 
fifty or sixty miles by water, although with some risk and diffi- 
culty. A noble chain of hills extend along the right bank of the 
river with bold precipitous bluffs running into the stream, and with 
their dark green firs enlivening the otherwise dreary aspect at the 
present time. The left bank assumed from Olekminsk, a low 
swampy but rich pasture appearance, the hills taking a new direc- 
tion. Upon approaching Yakutsk the villages become less fre- 



YAKUTSK. 143 

quent, and the stations all longer, extending even to thirty-five and 
forty miles, yet the natives do every thiDg with cheerfulness. No- 
thing of any considerable interest occurred to me, yet I felt as if 
existing upon the beautiful prospects and river scenery, which can- 
not fail of creating a most lively interest. j 
I reached Bistack, and was here surrounded by the ice, and the 
boat frozen in. Thus situated, I prosecuted the remaining part of 
the journey on land. The same kindness of heart which had pro- 
vided me with a boat to descend the stream, procured me also a 
horse to jide, and in the evening of the 6th of October, I found 
myself in the hospitable and comfortable residence of his Excel- 
lency the governor of Yaku:.-k, Captain Minitsky of the Russian 
navy, who had passed many years in the English service, and 
three of them with my cousin, Capiain N D Cochrane. In him 
I found a most worthy, upright, and liberal friend, and warmly- 
interested for my success, to ensure which, every thing 1 desired 
was provided me, although it will hereafter appear, that what I 
now considered as a most provident dress, having been put on in 
a warm room, turned out to be indeed a poor fit-out for such a 
journey. 

Yakutsk, although a considerable place of trade, and a great 
pass for the American Company, is ill built, and more scattered 
even than Irkutsk, in the most exposed of all bleak situations on 
the left bank of the Lena, which is in summer four miles, and 
winter two miles and a half wide, appearing, as it really is, one of 
the finest streams in the world, running a course of more than 
four thousand miles from its source, near Irkutsk, to the Frozen 
Sea, which it enters by sevnal mouths. The stream is by no 
means a rapid one, but rather may be called lazy, as its name ap- 
pears to import. There are seven thousand inhabitants in the city, 
of whom the greater part are Russians, and the rest Yakuti. Half 
a dozen churches, the remains of an old fortress, a monastery, and 



144 YAKUTSK. 

some tolerable buildings, give it some decency of appearance, yet, 
I could not help thinking it one of the most dreary looking places 
I had seen, though I was in the enjoyment of every comfort, and 
therefore the less disposed to complain. 

Yakutsk is not an independent government, but belongs to that 
of Irkutsk; it has, however, a vice-governor and an independent 
chancery of its own, who regulate all its affairs, making a mere 
formal report. It contains, scattered over a wonderful extent of 
territory, about one hundred and eighty-five thousand inhabitants, 
composed of Russians, Yakuti, a few Tongousi and fewer Yuka- 
gires. Fifty thousand of the whole pay tribute, which is in furs, 
mostly sables. Those of Vittim and Olekma are considered the 
finest, blackest, and smallest to be met with, a pair reaching as 
high as three and four hundred roubles, or from fifteen to twenty 
pounds sterling. Each taxable individual pays one-quarter of a 
sable, or in general cases, each family one sable, which, if it can- 
not be procured, is compromised by the payment of thirty shil- 
lings, reducing the tribute per head to seven shillings and sixpence, 
as that of a Russian is ten shillings. The greatest part of the 
population subjected to the government of Yakutsk is on the banks 
of the Lena, and small streams running into it ; no less than twen- 
ty thousand families certainly reside on it. The clear revenue de- 
rived is half a million of roubles, or twenty-five thousand pounds. 
The trade carried on by its numerous pedlars is very considerable 
from the immense quantity of the skins of all sorts. Tobacco, 
tea, sugar, spirits, nankeens, cottons, kettles, knives, and the like, 
constitute the cargoes of the traders, for which they receive the 
skins of bears, wolves, sables, river otters, martins, foxes, and er- 
mines, at very unfair prices. At Yakutsk, however, the value of 
them is well known. Bear skins twenty and twenty-five shillings; 
sables, from thirty to one hundred and fifty; a sea-otter, from ten 
to thirty pounds; river ditto, thirty and forty shillings; a black fox, 



YAKUTSK. 140 

from five to twenty and even thirty pounds; red and grey fox, two 
and three pounds — fiery-red, fifteen shillings; the white or arctic 
fox, five or six shillings, and the blue fox, eight or ten shillings; 
squirrels, sixpence to one shilling; wolves, ten shillings to a guinea; 
while I have myself given seven guineas for a black wolf at Omsk: 
the martins which come by the coast of America are worth five 
or six shillings. These are the prices at Yakutsk, but they are 
purchased of the natives for goods enhanced one hundred and fifty 
per cent., and for one-half the price for which they sell at Ya- 
kutsk; returning in most cases a clear profit of two and three hun- 
dred per cent., besides their living upon the people during the 
traffic. 

I remained in Yakutsk three weeks, making the needful prepa- 
rations for my journey during so severe a season of the year. In 
particular, I looked to the nature of my dress, for the accounts of 
the cold which I should have to encounter were such, that I con- 
sidered myself exposed to death, without even the satisfaction of 
expecting to be buried, from the eternal frost that prevails here* 
Could, however, this feeling be gratified, the satisfaction would be 
materially increased by the knowledge that the body itself would 
enter the next world in the same state that it left this; for every 
where to the north of Yakutsk, the earth, two feet and a half be- 
low the surface, is perpetually frozen ; consequently, a carcase 
buried in it, must remain perpetually the same. 

I determined, however, to start the day that the Lena should 
become passable on the ice. In the mean time I was engaged in 
such society as Yakutsk could boast; but if I could say little in 
this respect in favour of Irkutsk, I should almost be silent regard- 
ing Yakutsk, where, except the chief's wife, and one or two of 
the merchants, there is no society, and indeed scarcely one of those 
can be spoken to by a traveller, especially by one, whose long 
beard and haggard looks might well frighten them from me; they 
T 



146 YAKUTSK, 

vrere, however, safe on another account, namely, my extreme ig- 
norance of the Russian language. 

The way I passed my time at Mr. Minitsky's, was sufficiently 
regular; I rose early, and always went early to bed; occupied, 
while daylight lasted, with bringing up my journal; then at a game 
at billiards; afterwards at dinner, always on the most excellent 
fare, with wine, rum, and other delicacies. In the evening, with 
a party of the natives, male and female, at the house of the chief, 
the ladies to all appearance dumb, not daring to utter a word, and 
solely employed in cracking their nuts, a very small species of the 
cedar nut, which abounds in such quantities as to be made an ar- 
ticle of trade to Okotsk and Kamtchatka. I am not exaggerating 
when I say, that half-a-dozen of females will sit down and con- 
sume each many hundreds of these nuts, and quit the house with- 
out having spoken a word — unless a stolen one, in fear it should 
be heard. Should tea and cakes be offered, they will sip two, 
three, or four cups, as long as the samavar (a sort of copper tea 
urn) has water in it. The manner of their using the sugar with 
tea, though perhaps not entirely singular, for the Chinese have the 
same fashion, is remarkably ridiculous; each individual takes a 
small lump, which he grates between his teeth in such a manner 
as only to consume a very small part of it: and thus, although the 
person has drunk three or more cups, the greater portion of sugar 
remains, and being placed upon the inverted cup finds its way 
back to the sugar dish, when the party has broken up; so that, 
probably, at the feast on the following day, a lady or gentleman 
may happen to get his old friend back again. Nor is it with su- 
gar alone that this system of economy is adopted. Biscuits, cakes, 
&c. on being presented, are received and placed behind them, on 
the chair, to keep warm, and their fragments also are ultimately 
restored to the basket. Thus, luxuries of these kinds are render- 
ed cheap, for the custom is general, and I have often witnessed 



YAKUTSK* 141l 

the fact, not indeed at Mr. Minitsky's, but at other respectable 
houses, the inmates of which knew no better, and were ignorant 
of the chief's disliking it. 

While the ladies are thus cracking their nuts, staring, and listen- 
ing, and speechless, the gentlemen are employed in drinking rum 
or rye-brandy punch, as their tastes may dictate. Nor is even 
good rum a scarce article here, coming as it does by way of Kamt- 
chatka. I was one feast-day on a visit to a respectable old gen- 
tleman, one of the council; there were no chairs, but a long table 
was spread with fish pies, a piece of roast beef, boiled deers' 
tongues, and some wild berries in a tart. The first thing present- 
ed is a glass of brandy, which I refused, knowing the chief to have 
sent some wine; this I was offered and accepted, when I was told 
by my friend the chief, that it was not the custom to accept any 
thing of that kind the first time, but to await the third. Relying 
upon the chief's knowledge of the world, I refused the next glass 
of wine, which was offered me twice, and need not say I ulti- 
mately lost it, probably from the practice of economizing good 
wine in a place where it can seldom be purchased. 

Great parade is kept up in this part of the world with respect 
to rank, and no lady visits the wife of the chief or vice-governor, 
without kissing her hand; while the latter sits motionless upon the 
sofa without making the least acknowledgment of such a conde- 
scension. The same custom was also established at Irkutsk, with 
Governor Treskins's wife, who being the mother of Mrs. Minit- 
sky, of course initiated her daughter into the mysteries of her im- 
portance: she probably finds a sad falling off when at St. Peters- 
burg. This absurd custom is carried so far, that the priests are 
compelled to offer thanks and prayers for them, individually, every 
Sunday at church, Mr. Minitsky is, however, a good man, and 
an exceedingly clever governor, equalled by few in Siberia; his 
situation is of course a good one, and may be made equal to hie 



148 YAKUTSK. 






utmost desires by fraud, trade, extortion, and corruption. But lat- 
terly the conduct of the Governor-general Speranski has put all 
the people in office, in Siberia, upon the qui vive. 

That bribery is still carried on to great excess, there can be no 
doubt, nor is it possible for any man or men to prevent it; it is 
the practice, and carries here an appearance of right or law. It 
is the custom of Siberia, that the chiefs are allowed to receive 
presents on their names', or their Saints' day. A governor of a 
province, who couid not reach in time to be present at the feast 
of the commissary of Izpravnick, and had not taken upon himself 
the government, was willing to make a good beginning. He ac- 
cordingly sent an express to the commissary regretting his absence, 
at the same time forwarding to him a pair of elegantly mounted 
pistols, and reminding him that the Governor's name's day would 
take place that week, at which his attendance, &c. The old mi- 
serly commissary, who had hitherto resisted the custom of payment 
to other saints, could not resist such a challenge, and attended the 
feast at the cost of ten thousand roubles. Here is an instance of 
a Governor openly offering a bribe, as well as of openly demand- 
ing one. They are but the representatives of much worse, as I 
shall hereafter have an opportunity of observing. 

My dresses completed, and the river having, according to cus- 
tom, been passed and declared closed, 1 packed up my knapsack, 
and other baggage, as I was provided also with a couple of bags 
of black biscuit through the kindness of my host, with a piece of 
roast beef, a few dried fish, half a dozen pounds of tea, and twenty 
pounds of sugar-candy, besides fifty pounds of tobacco, and a keg 
of vodkey, corn-brandy, a most indispensable article on such a 
journey, whether for my own or others' consumption. I had be- 
sides a pipe, flint, steel, and axe, and what was of most import- 
ance, a Cossack companion, who indeed proved invaluable to me. 
My destination was Nishney Kolyma, distant about one thousand 



YAKUTSK. 149 

eight huudred miles, which were to be travelled over in the coldest 
season of the year, and in what is esteemed the coldest part of the 
world. All this I heeded nothing, apd provided, as I thought, with 
warm clothing, considered myself as proof against at least fifty de- 
grees of Reaumur's frost. The spirit thermometer at Yakutsk, 
measured at Mr. Minitsky's house, was 27° of cold of Reaumur, 
or nearly the same number of degrees below the zero of Fahren- 
heit, yet I walked about the streets of Yakutsk with only my nan- 
keen surtout, trowsers of the same material, shoes, and worsted 
stockings: a flannel waistcoat, which had lost its principal virtue, 
was the only warm clothing; yet I can truly say I was not at all 
incommoded. The natives felt surprised, pitied my apparent for- 
lorn and hopeless situation, not seeming to consider that when the 
mind and body are in constant motion, the elements can have little 
effect upon the person. I feel confident that most of the miseries 
of human life are brought on by want of a solid education, of firm 
reliance on a bountiful and ever attendant Providence — of a spirit 
of perseverance — of patience under fatigue and privations, and a 
resolute determination to hold to the point of duty, never to shrink 
while life retains a spark, or while " a shot is in the locker," as 
sailors say. Often indeed have I felt myself in difficult and trying 
circumstances, from cold, or hunger, or fatigue; although, thank 
God, not to the degree which my unfortunate brother officer Capt. 
Franklin experienced, yet still to a degree beyond what would, in 
England, be considered sufficient to cure me of my wandering 
propensities; and I may affirm with gratitude, that I have never 
felt happier than even in the encountering of these difficulties. 
Thus, in the present case, I had no second parka, or frock; no 
knee preservers, blanket, or bed; an indifferent pair of gloves, and 
a cold cap; no guard for my chin, ears, or nose; in short I was not 
properly provided, which I found out too late, and attribute the 



150 DEPARTURE FROM YAKUTSK. 

preservation of my life solely to the strength of my constitution, 
which I have never seen equalled to this hour. 

It was on the last day of October that I departed from Yakutsk 
with my Cossack, the thermometer being at 27° of frost. I had, 
through the kindness of my friend Mr. Miuitsky, been provided 
with a couple of sledges, and every recommendation within his 
power. It is impossible for me to describe the different emotions 
which agitated my breast as I quitted the last limit of civilization, 
of the friends I had made, and of all that could attach me to so- 
ciety; for although I felt a confidence of meeting with hospitality 
and every assistance I could desire, still to a sensible mind, the 
enterprise was formidable, going as I did alone, and ignorant even 
of the Russian language, much more of that of the Tartar tribes. 
For the means of meeting the latter difficulty, I was indebted to 
the numerous people who spoke English, French, and German, 
one of whom I met at almost every halting-place, when the dul- 
lness of a Cossack interpreter could hardly afford me the means of 
amusement, much less of information. 

The cold I suffered in the sledge, and the jolting movement at- 
tending the passage of the ice on the Lena, now crumbled by the 
stream into hillocks, soon roused me, and I jumped out, preferring 
to walk, and though I had my feet almost frozen while in the 
sledge, the exercise and weight of my clothes, soon brought me to 
a state of perspiration, by the time I had reached fifteen miles, 
when I halted for the night in a pleasant yourte. The next, a 
cold and windy day, I resumed my journey, alternately walking 
and riding on horse-back, to escape at once fatigue and cold, and 
measured forty miles over a level but well wooded country. I 
felt much pleased with the attentions of the Yakuti, who provided 
me, as I arrived, with milk, meat, and not seldom with clotted 
cream. Such were my delicacies until I reached the banks of the 
river Aldan, a noble stream running into the Lena. I had passed 



ALDAN. 151 

a small place called Meera, where are two churches, for the per- 
formance of divine worship in the Yakut dialect, at which, although 
I understood nothing of it, I attended. A more dreary looking 
place I have never seen. It overhangs the banks of a considera- 
ble lake. The situation in summer may be better; but what can 
be otherwise than dreary in Siberia during the winter? The latter 
part of the journey to Aldan was through romantic valleys, whose 
numerous streams and lakes supply abundance offish. They are 
also studded with numerous traps of various descriptions for foxes, 
bears, sables, and wolves; and the quantity of animals of the chase 
is considered abundant. There appeared a considerable popula- 
tion, and many wealthy knezes or princes; who, wherever I met 
them, were kind and hospitable. I reached Aldan the fourth day, 
the distance being about one hundred and fifty miles; the last day's 
journey sixty. My face was suffering greatly. 

At Aldan I staid two days, while horses were procuring for the 
post which I was accompanying; but finding them still tardy, I 
made the prince understand, that unless I had them next morning, 
we must return to Yakutsk: and the better to persuade him of 
my intention, I availed myself of a letter in English to Mr. 
Minitsky, the contents of which really were to thank him for his 
kindness and hospitality to me, but which I represented as a letter 
of complaint against the Yakut prince. The latter took it, though 
apparently in the greatest apprehension of its consequences, and 
actually himself delivered it at Yakutsk, by way of atonement. 
Mr. Minitsky repeated the circumstance upon my return. Poor 
fellow! however I might turn the matter for my own benefit, little 
intention had I of making a complaint, where indeed there was 
no fault. My letter, however, had the effect of procuring horses 
on the third day, and we departed in high glee, as the same beasts 
were to carry us to Baralass, distant one hundred and fifty miles, 
which will be the less wonder, when it is observed, that the horses 



152 FROM ALDAN 

go loaded with two hundred weight from Yakutsk to the Kolyma, 
and back again, through roads and over a country almost impass- 
able. 

On the sixth of November I crossed the Aldan and breakfasted 
at a solitary yourte (at ten miles), completing in the evening thirty 
miles, where we halted in a cabin about ten feet square. Had it, 
however, been much worse or smaller, I must have felt thankful, 
for I had been severely pinched by the effects of the cold and the 
wind in my face. A good fire, a cup of tea, and a sound slumber, 
with pleasant dreams, perfectly refreshed me by the ensuing morn- 
ing. The country had of late been level, but at twenty miles I 
became enveloped in a lofty chain of mountains, which I had been 
for some lime gradually ascending, and which are called the Tou- 
koulan chain, from the word Touku, which, in the Yakut lan- 
guage, signifies 'noisy;' as indeed the river of that name does 
roar down its precipitous banks. In the same chain also the Yana 
has its source. We halted for the night at the foot of a mountain- 
ous peak, sheltered from the cold north wind; and as this was the 
first night which I was to pass in the open air, I shall describe the 
manner of it, in order that it may be known how far (contrary to 
my calculations) our situation was susceptible even of comfort. 

The first thing on my arrival, was to unload the horses, loosen 
their saddles or pads, take the bridle out of their mouths, and tie 
them to a tree in such a manner that they could not eat. The 
Yakuti then with their axes proceeded to fell timber, while I and 
the Cossack with our lopatkas or wooden spades cleared away the 
snow, which was generally a couple of feet deep. We then spread 
branches of the pine tree, to fortify us from the damp or cold earth 
beneath us: a good fire was now soon made, and each bringing a 
leathern bag from the baggage, furnished himself with a seat. We 
then put the kettle on the fire, and soon forgot the sufferings of the 
day. Yet the weather was so cold that we were almost obliged 



TO MIDDLE KOLYMA. 153 

to creep into the fire; and as I was much worse off than the rest 
of the party for warm clothing, I had recourse to every stratagem 
I could devise to keep my blood in circulation. It was barely 
possible to keep one side of the body from freezing, while the other 
might be said to be roasting. Upon the whole, I slept tolerably 
well, although I was obliged to get up five or six times during the 
night to take a walk or run for the benefit of my feet. While thus 
employed, I discovered that the Yakuti had drawn the fire from 
our side to theirs, a trick which I determined to counteract the 
next night. I should here observe, that it is the custom of the 
Yakuti to get to leeward of the fire, and then undressing themselves, 
put the whole of their clothes as a shelter for one side of their 
bodies, while the other side receives a thorough roasting from ex- 
posure to the fire; this plan also gives them the benefit of the 
warmth of their own bodies. The thermometer during the day 
had ranged from 20° to 25°, according to the elevation of the 
sun. 

The following day, at thirty miles, we again halted in the snow, 
when I made a horse-shoe fire, which I found had the effect I de- 
sired, of keeping every part of me alike warm, and I actually 
slept well without any other covering than my clothes thrown over 
me, whereas before I had only the consolation of knowing that if 
I was in a freezing state with one half of my body, the other was 
meanwhile roasting to make amends. On the third night I reach- 
ed the foot of the mountainous pass which may be said to lead to 
Northern Siberia. My route bad hitherto lain generally on the 
banks of the Toukoulan, which runs along a picturesque valley on 
the western range of the mountains, and is well wooded with fir, 
larch, and alder. Upon reaching thus far, I looked up at what I 
had yet to perform, and I confess felt astonished, not at the height, 
but how it could be practicable to get up a slippery and almost 
trackless road. However we commenced, and mainly by prefer- 
U 



1 54 fROM ALDAN 

ring the deep snow, as I uniformly did, at last gained the summit, 
but not without great fatigue; a horse could not carry a person up 
under a considerable time, and it took me two hours at least. We 
sat down, my Cossack and I, to gain breath and wait for the Ya- 
kuti with the baggage — in the mean time smoking a pipe; but it 
was too cold to remain, — we therefore prepared to descend. As to 
keeping my feet, however, that was impossible; I therefore lay 
down and slid to the bottom of the most dangerous part, a feat for 
which I had nearly paid dear, by coming in contact with a horse 
which had taken the same expeditious mode of descending. The 
path was so narrow, that one error would have pitched me for 
€ver into the abyss of snow beneath; and although not deep, would 
have prevented a return, unless I had fortunately fallen with my 
feet downwards; and falling on one side I found very dangerous 1 
unless somebody was near to render assistance. I soon reached 
what I may term a charity yourte, being erected by the commu- 
nity in general for the accommodation and preservation of travel- 
lers. It consists of a twelve feet square room, with a small ante- 
room which serves as an entry, and may be properly termed a log- 
house, having no window, unless a large opening in the roof may 
be so termed. The centre is left to form a neat hearth or fire- 
place, on the same level as the sleeping places round it, which are 
six in number, and about eighteen inches off the ground, leaving 
a narrow passage between the hearth and bed places, which are 
formed of earth, boarded up and planked over: they were indeed 
very comfortable cells. Outside, the building is supported and 
banked up with snow, and the roof is covered with the same ar- 
ticle, no fear being entertained of its ever melting; the only incon^ 
venience is from the smoke not having a free outlet, unless the 
door is open, which makes it very cold. 

We passed a tolerable night, in company with some other tra-? 
yellers bound to Yakutsk, and next morning resumed our journey 



TO TABALAK. 



m 



iii fine weather; and in this way, at the expiration of six days, 
reached Baralass, alternately sleeping in snow, or in an uninha- 
bited yourte, as our progress made it necessary. 

The yourtes are placed at an inconvenient distance, being twen- 
ty-five miles asunder, too great in bad weather, and too little in 
fine; twelve miles would be preferable, as travellers would then 
always have a resting place at one or the other (at least where 
wood is to be had,) and every comfort. The country over which 
I had come may be deemed on the whole very picturesque, the 
road lying between two elevated ranges of mountains; the valleys 
exceedingly well wooded, but gradually diminishing as the sum- 
mit is approached, where nothing but the purest frozen snow is to 
be seen. There are also innumerable valleys, emanating from the 
principal one, which produce a beautiful effect, besides furnishing 
fine timber; but with all its beauty, or grandeur of scenery, it is 
dreary and desolate, not an individual dwelling in the whole ex- 
tent from Aldan to Baralass; a distance, equal to half the length 
of England. 

I was civilly received by a Yakut prince, who gave me a sup- 
ply of frozen milk, and we resumed our journey to Tabalak: we 
made forty miles the first day, by a good road, the snow being hard 
frozen. The little river Sartan, runs along the valley and unites 
with the Yana. I met a few hunting Yakuti, armed with bows 
and arrows, some on horseback, and others on foot. They appear 
an extremely civil people. The following day with great labour, 
walking and riding alternately, we reached forty miles, the horses 
distressed, and the guides worse; the weather, snow and wind. 
For myself I was much disheartened, but I felt that I had no 
choice; go I must, for return I would not, had things been ten 
times worse. The third was the coldest day I had experienced, 
the thermometer at twenty-eight and thirty below the freezing 
point of Reaumur, attended with some snow. We passed severa! 



156 TABALAK, 

habitations of the Yakuti, who invariably offered us a lodging, and 
provision for the day; and always appropriated to me the best 
birth, which is in that corner of the room under the image, and 
opposite to the fire. We now left the river and valley of Sartan. 
crossed a considerable range of bills to the eastward, and entered 
upon an open country, which we got over more easily, the path 
being very fair. Passing the banks of the Boroulak, we came in 
time to witness the result of one of their field sports, in the death 
of a deer, who had been levelled by a rifle-shot: of course I had 
the most luxurious part presented to me, being the marrow of the 
fore legs. I did not find it disagreeable, though eaten raw, and 
warm from life; in a frozen state I should consider it a great de- 
licacy. The animal was the size of a good calf, weighing about 
two hundred pounds; such a quantity of meat may serve four o? 
five good Yakuts, for a single meal, with whom it is ever famine 
or feast, gluttony or starvation. 

We reached Tabalak on the sixth day from Baralass, the latter 
part of the road lying on the Boroulak, varying from excellent to 
execrable, as we changed from the river to the banks: the distance 
is two hundred and thirty miles. It is not badly peopled, consi- 
dering the access to it, as compared with the former part of my 
journey. Here we overtook an expedition bound to the river Ko- 
lyma, for the purpose of discovery, under the charge of the steers- 
man. It consisted of one hundred and fifty loaded horses, appa- 
rently in a sad state from being too heavily laden. Independent 
of the expedition, there were on the road a great many pedlars 
bound to the same place to be ready for the fair of the Tschutskoi 
What will not avarice or ambition prompt man to? But I am not 
the person to be astonished, who am voluntarily travelling the same 
road, without necessity or occasion. The journey is at present 
rendered increasingly laborious by numerous trees which have 
fallen; whether from the effects of wind, the force of the waters- 



TABALAK. 157 

or natural decay. It is no uncommon thing during the spring, for 
the trees which have been left by the winter's blasts or summer's 
deluge, to salute the traveller in passing, at least if he should hap- 
pen to step upon the roots, which are almost level with the sur- 
face of the earth: so perfectly frozen is the whole country north 
of 60° of latitude. 

At Tabalak I had a pretty good specimen of the appetite of a 
child, whose age (as I understood from the steersman, who spoke 
some English and less French) did not exceed five years. I had 
observed the child crawling on the floor, and scraping up with its 
thumb the tallow grease which fell from a lighted candle, and I 
inquired in surprise whether it proceeded from hunger or liking of 
the fat. I was told from neither, but simply from the habit in 
both Yakuti and Tongousi of eating whenever there is food, and 
never permitting any thing that can be eaten to be lost. I gave 
the child a candle made of the most impure tallow, — a second, — • 
and third, — and all were devoured with avidity. The steersman 
then gave him several pounds of sour frozen butter; this also he 
immediately consumed; lastly, a large piece of yellow soap, — all 
went the same road; but as I was now convinced that the child 
would continue to gorge as long as it could receive any thing, I 
begged my companion to desist. 

As to the statement of what a man can or will eat, either as to 
quality or quantity, I am afraid it would be quite incredible; in 
fact, there is nothing in the way of fish or meat, from whatever 
animal, however putrid or unwholesome, but they will devour 
with impunity, and the quantity only varies from what they have, 
to what they can get. I have repeatedly seen a Yakut or a Ton- 
gouse devour forty pounds of meat in a day. The effect is very 
observable upon them, for from thin and meagre-looking men, they 
will become perfectly pot-bellied. Their stomachs must be dif- 
ferently formed to ours, or it would be impossible for them to drink 



158 tabaLak. 

off at a draught, as they really do, their tea and soup scalding hot 
(so hot, at least, that an European would have difficulty in even 
sipping at it,) without the least inconvenience. I have seen three 
of these gluttons consume a rein-deer at one meal; nor are they 
nice as to the choice of parts; nothing being lost, not even the 
contents of the bowels, which, with the aid of fat and blood, are 
converted into black puddings. 

For an instance in confirmation of this, no doubt, extraordinary 
statement, I shall refer to the voyages of the Russian admiral, Sa- 
ritcheff. " No sooner," he says, " had they stopped to rest or 
spend the night, than they had their kettle on the fire, which they 
never left until they pursued their journey, spending the intervals 
for rest in eating, and, in consequence of no sleep, were drowsy 
all the next day." The admiral also says, " That such extraor- 
dinary voracity was never attended with any ill effects, although 
they made a practice of devouring, at one meal, what would have 
killed any other person. The labourers," the admiral says, " had 
an allowance of four poods, or one hundred and forty-four English 
pounds of fat, and seventy-two pounds of rye floury yet in a fort- 
night they complained of having nothing to eat. Not crediting 
the fact, the Yakuts said that one of them was accustomed to con- 
sume at home, in the space of a day, or twenty-four hours, the 
hind quarter of a'large ox, twenty pounds of fat, and a proportionate 
quantity of melted butter for his drink. The appearance of the 
man not justifying the assertion, the admiral had a mind to try his 
gormandizing powers, and for that purpose he had a thick porridge 
of rice boiled down with three pounds of butter, weighing together 
twenty-eight pounds, and although the glutton had already break- 
fasted, yet did he sit down to it with great eagerness, and con- 
sumed the whole without stirring from the spot: and, except that 
his stomach betrayed more than an ordinary fulness, he betrayed 
no sign of molestation or injury, but would have been ready to 



TABALAK. 15S 

renew bis gluttony the following day." So much for the admiral, 
on the truth of whose account I place perfect reliance. 

Tabalak is the residence of ^a corporal of the Cossacks, who 
has the charge of the post, and commands over the surrounding 
Yakuti. He is married, and appears to live here with tolerable 
comfort, The country round is studded with lakes, producing 
abundance of fine fish. I staid a couple of days to refresh myself, 
and, on the 22d of November, I resumed the journey. The wea- 
ther was now very cold, and my knees became exceedingly pain- 
ful, as I thought, from sitting too much on horseback, consequently 
I walked more, in spite of the fatigue; going over fifteen and 
twenty miles a day on foot, and always in those places where it 
was difficult for the horse to carry me. The first night we halted 
on the banks of a small lake, where some fishermen were hauling 
their nets, although the ice was twenty inches deep. The plan is 
indeed ingenious, and proves that " necessity is the mother of in- 
vention." Having fixed upon the spot, a large hole is made in the 
most distant part opposite to the place to which the fish are to be 
hauled, and then holes are also made from it on each side circu- 
larly towards the point where the fish are to be caught: the dis- 
tance from hole to hole about fifteen or twenty feet: the whole of 
the net is then let down the first opening, as are the ropes attached 
to the hauling of it, which ropes are fastened to a long pole, which 
under the ice conducts the ropes from hole to hole. Both ends are 
taken up at the last and largest opening, and the net is thus haul- 
ed: and a considerable quantity offish are caught. The following 
figure will represent the plan, the size and distance of the aper- 
tures being proportioned to the size of the net and length of the 
ropes: 



160 



FROM TABALAK 




A, representing the opening where the net is first sunk; B, where 
it is hauled down; the other openings, those made for communica- 
tion; and the space within the outer circle, the lake. 

We halted at a most magnificent range of mountains, running 
from east to west-north-west, with lofty projecting bluffs and ter- 
rific precipices, on lands gently rising from the thickly wooded 
basis into elevated peaks and long extents of table lands, in all the 
wild variety of nature. I regretted my inability to sketch this 
beautiful view. 

The route lay along the river Tostak twenty-five miles; then 
crossing the mountains into the valley, and on to the river Dogdoa, 
now deeply hid in snow, and occasioning great labour to man and 
horse. We were frequently obliged to halt and clear away the 
snow with our spades, to enable the animals to proceed; at other 
times to unload them, and drag the baggage for two or three hun- 
dred yards. In these cases all distinctions of rank are laid aside, 
every person assisting and taking charge of his own horse: the only 
difference, a very slight one, being in favour of the hindmost, and 
even that was regulated, as the horses must take their turn to lead, 
though the riders did not. When free from this heavy work, we 
were almost as badly off, being then on the river, the state of which 
absolutely prevented the progress of the horses, without first chop- 
ping up the ice with hatchets, and then carefully leading the ani- 



TO ZASHIVERSK. 161 

mals. In short, such was the nature of our road, that we had al- 
most to carry the horses through the snow, and support them over 
ice so clear and slippery, that oil poured over it could not have made 
it worse. With all the assistance we could give, they constantly 
fell groaning under their loads, and it was really painful even to 
witness their sufferings. Three days passed in this manner, and I 
felt that if ever I had earned my coarse fare, it was during that pe- 
riod. Two horses had been allotted to me, and my plan was, to 
conduct one of them over the worst part, tie him to a tree, and 
then return for the other — and so on. The Yakuti felt grateful 
for the willingness with which I took my share of the labour. 

The uexf part of our road lay along the little rivers Kabbregah, 
Koudouroukui, Rasoka, and Kamen-da-Maslo; after which, leav- 
ing the mountainous part, we got upon an extensive plain, and 
reached a charity yourte very late, having been obliged to aban- 
don one of the horses. I was now suffering much in my feet, on 
which the frozen perspiration had formed blisters, in which state 
I had also to encounter water even upon the ice. This, as it ap- 
pears to me, is occasioned by the intenseness of the frost contract- 
ing the ice, till in the end, it divides about the centre; cold being 
of so peculiar a quality, as in the first place to expand, and ulti- 
mately to contract all fluids it affects. The same observation 
applies to the ground, which cracks alike whether from the effect 
of heat or cold; indeed, so powerful is the congelation of water, 
that it even splits mountains asunder, a fact which is here every 
where visible. Many of these mountains are of slate, and the rest 
appear but a common sort of rock and granite; but on the banks 
of the river Kamen-da-Maslo, there is produced a fossil or an 
earthy substance called in Russian, Kamennoye Maslo, or stone 
butter, which is eaten in various ways, as well by Russians as 
Tongousi — it is of a yellowish cream colour, and not unpleasant 
X 



162 FROM TABALAK 

in taste, but is forbidden, as pernicious in its effects, producing 
various disorders, as the gravel, &c. 

This earthy matter is found to be a fossil or salt, oozing out of 
rocks in many parts of Siberia, but chiefly from those near the 
rivers Irtish and Yenesci. When it is exposed to the air in dry 
weather it hardens, but in wet weather it again becomes soft or 
liquid. 

The horses requiring much rest from their fatigues, we did not 
depart until late. The intermediate time I consumed in various 
employments, chiefly by contrasting in my mind the populous cities 
and towns I had left with the remote and widely distant villages 
I now meet, and " those vast and uncultivated tracts," as is ob- 
served by Talleyrand, when speaking upon society, " traversed 
rather than peopled by men who belong to no nation. It is a novel 
spectacle for a traveller who, taking his departure from a large 
town where society is perfected, watches every degree of civiliza- 
tion and industry becoming every moment weaker, till he arrives 
in a few days at the clumsy and coarse hut, constructed with the 
trunks of fallen trees. Such a journey is a practical analysis of 
the origin and progress of nations, where we have a complicated 
aggregate to arrive at the most simple elements: every day we lose 
sight of some one of those inventions which our unceasing wants 
have rendered necessary, and seem to travel backward in the his- 
tory of the progress of the human mind. If such a spectacle in- 
vites the imagination, if we are delighted to find in space what 
alone belongs to time, we must be content to see very few social 
ties among those men who appear so little to belong to the same 
association, so little to possess an uniformity of character." These 
ideas, so congenial with my own, occupied me in a melancholy 
mood till I rose, and, looking at the grandeur of the scenery, re- 
flected, that wherever I was, the same Providence was there also. 

The extensive chain of mountains viewed from the spot where 



TO ZASHIVERSK. 163 

I write this, is truly fine; they run from east-north-east to west- 
south-west; the river Rasoka runs along the eastern range, and is 
visible for many miles, within the two ranges, which appear to 
have been severed asunder by some convulsion of nature. I was. 
however, obliged to quit the scene, and pursue my journey over a 
country agreeably diversified with hill and dale, the path lying first 
along the banks of the Beekhall, and then of the Bludenaya, where 
1 halted in a most beautiful and close valley, surrounded on all 
sides by lofty and well clothed mountains. 

On the 9th day I started for Zashiversk, distant forty miles, the 
first twenty of which was by a rising path, until I reached the 
greatest elevation of a lofty mountain, with some peril and more 
difficulty. The scene reminded me of my journey across the sand 
hills at the back of Vera Cruz, with this difference only, that the 
gale, generally attending both, obscures in the one instance the at- 
mosphere with sand, and in the other with snow; in both no traces 
of a path can long exist if there be any wind. The snow lay from 
four to six feet deep, and our situation was at one time extremely 
dangerous, being completely ignorant which way to turn; not the 
smallest vestige of verdure was to be seen, and, except a few crosses 
(another resemblance to Vera Cruz), which were sure to receive 
the offering of the Yakuti, consisting of horse-hair drawn from the 
tail or mane of horses, in token of their gratitude for safe arrival 
at the summit, nothing was visible. I left this desert of snow, 
and rapidly descended the north-east side of the hills, enjoying the 
magnificent winter scene which gradually opens to view. I soon- 
reached the banks of the Chouboukalah, and the more considerable 
Galanima, and then along a well-wooded valley, gained the rapid 
Indigirka just at the point where the latter falls into it; not long 
after which I entered the town of Zashiversk. 

Of all the places I have ever seen, bearing the name of city or 
town, this is the most dreary and desolate; my blood froze withi& 



164 ZASHIVERSK. 

me as I beheld and approached the place. All that I have seen 
in passing rocky or snowy sierras or passes in Spain, in traversing 
the wastes of Canada, or in crossing the mountains in North Ame- 
rica, or the Pyrennees, or the Alps, cannot be compared with the 
desolation of the scene around me ! The first considerable halting- 
place from Yakutsk, the half way house, is nine hundred or one 
thousand miles removed from a civilized place. Such a spot gives 
name to a commissariat, and contains seven habitations of the most 
miserable kind, inhabited severally by two clergymen, each sepa- 
rate, a non-commissioned officer, and a second in command; a post- 
master, a merchant, and an old widow. I have, during my service 
in the navy, and during a period when seamen were scarce, seen 
a merchant ship with sixteen guns, and only fifteen men, but I 
never before saw a town with only seven inhabitants. 

The distance to Zashiversk from Tabalak is two hundred and 
fifty miles, throughout the whole of which there is not a single in- 
habited dwelling, and but eight charity yourtes. The weather 
had, generally speaking, been calm and mild, seldom exceeding 
25° of frost of Reaumur. This miserable town is, however, at 
least an hospitable place. It is seated on the right bank of the 
Indigirka, which flows with great rapidity, and during the sum- 
mer carries every thing before it. The mountains to the west are 
bold and bare, producing nothing besides a few dwarf pines; these 
mountains confine the river for forty miles farther to the north, 
where it spreads and forms a continuation of lakes until it enters 
the Icy Sea. 

Fish is fine and most abundant, and constitutes almost the only 
support of the numerous inhabitants. There is not a blade of grass 
near the place, and no horses are kept nearer than thirty miles; so 
that there is no little difficulty in bringing the hay which maintains 
a couple of cows. The planner or proposer of this site for a town 
might deserve punishment, but certainly less than that of being 



FROM ZASHIVERSK TO SORDAK. 165 

made its perpetual commander. I remained three days, living in 
a state of luxury to which I had, of late, been a stranger. Hares, 
wolves, bears, wild rein-deer, and elks, which abound here, were 
my ordinary food; foxes, which are also in great plenty, are here 
used as food. Bear and wolf meat I found good when very hun- 
gry; rein-deer I found a delicate diet; but elk I think surpasses 
every thing I have tasted, having all the nutriment of beef, with 
all the delicate flavour of the rein-deer. 

On the 3d of December I quitted the town of Zashiversk, not 
ungrateful for the hospitality of its poor inhabitants who had sup- 
plied me with plenty offish, here eaten in a raw state, and which 
to this hour I remember as the greatest delicacy I have ever tasted. 
Spite of our prejudices, there is nothing to be compared to the 
melting of raw fish in the mouth; oysters, clotted cream, or the 
finest jelly in the world is nothing to it: nor is it only a small quan- 
tity that may be eaten of this precious commodity. I myself have 
finished a whole fish which in its frozen state might have weighed 
two or three pounds, and with black biscuit and a glass of rye 
brandy, have defied either nature or art to prepare a better meal. 
It is cut up or shaved into slices with a sharp knife, from head to 
tail, and thence derives the name of StroganTna: to complete the 
luxury only salt and pepper were wanting. Having charged my- 
self with a leather bag of these, I resumed my route along the crys- 
tal surface of the Indigirka. My first day's journey brought me 
more acquainted with the power and use of dogs, although I have 
seen them in London drawing a poor sailor who had lost both his 
legs; here, however, water or ice, fish, fire-wood, travellers and 
their goods, and every thing that convenience can demand, is drawn 
by those domestic animals. 

At forty miles the mountains diverge from the course of the river 
to the east-north-east and west-south-west, the former chaip^going 
towards the Kolyma, and the latter embanking the Yana; the coun- 



166 FROM ZASHIVERSK TO SORDAK. 

iry between them a vast desert. The 20th day we had passed 
thirty miles, still on the shallow, transparent, and slippery Indi- 
girka, which gave us another lesson of our hard work. Many 
islands lay in the river which, during the summer, present a scene 
of desolation almost incredible, from the effects of the wonderful 
overflowing of the rivers. In journeying along the river, my horse 
twice fell under me upon his broadside, yet without injury to me, 
as I used no stirrups, my feet hanging at liberty for the sake of 
kicking the horse's side to keep me warm. My route lying north, 
the mountains gradually disappeared, as I entered on the seemingly 
boundless plain. We tarried at a comfortable clean yourte, where 
I was regaled with excellent cream and wild berries, somewhat 
similar to black currants, called here broosneeka. I continued 
over a flat country, and lakes communicating with one another by 
small streams, suffering much at times from the cold, especially in 
the knees, which although not sensibly cold, had a feeling of dead- 
r.ess and painful fatigue, which I could not account for till a ped- 
lar explained to me by signs and words, that if I did not alter my 
plan I should certainly lose both my legs above the knees. They 
appeared indeed a little inflamed, owing, as he said, to the inade 
quate protection of the knee joints, which on horseback are more 
than ordinarily exposed, all the defence they had being a single 
leather, in sometimes 30° of frost of Reaumur. I considered that 
I was still bound to the northward, and that the extreme of winter 
had not yet come upon me, and therefore thought it better to ac- 
cept a pair of souturee (knee preservers) which he very kindly of- 
fered. The service they did me is astonishing: from that moment 
I had less pain and more heat, and became fully satisfied that the 
extremities are alone to be taken care of. 

On the third day after my departure from Zashiversk, my liquor 
was atjuvend from the effects of a very common sort of leak — it 
had been tapped too often. 1 could do nothing but bull the bar- 



SORDAK, 167 

rel, that is, put a little water into it, and thus preserve at least the 
appearance of vodkey. The nights were particularly beautiful, 
and the moon was visible during the whole twenty-four hours. 
My eyes had now become painful from the effects of the snow on 
the eye-lashes, but I was still content, and moved forward cheer- 
fully to the scene of my destination. On the sixth day, over a 
miserable road, the fatigues of which it is useless to repeat, I 
reached a miserable abode, whose inhabitants were in a state of 
actual starvation, completely resigned to their fate, and only wish- 
ing to die. Remonstrance had some effect in rousing them, and 
warm tea had more, for they determined to accompany us to the 
next post station, whose inhabitants, at our instigation, gave them 
a part of their own fish, " although the wants of nature, frugal as 
they were, but scarce supported their own lives." Over lakes and 
through low forests I at length reached the summit of the chain of 
hills which separate the commissariats of Zashiversk and Kolyma; 
then, descending rapidly, entered a charity yourte twenty miles 
farther. I found a fire ready lighted, owing to the considerate 
attention and orders of Baron Wrangel, who keeps a man em- 
ployed here until the whole expedition has passed. — The eighth 
day I reached Sordak, three hundred and twenty miles from Za- 
shiversk. This stage was accomplished with great difficulty, 
owing to the unusual depth of the snow, and the wretched condi- 
tion of the horses: mine had failed. The late high winds had 
also obliterated every trace of the path, and we were frequently 
obliged to return and start afresh, sounding the depth of the snow 
as we went. At length, however, we arrived, and in good health, 
although the weather was now become very severe. 

At Sordak there is a post house and a corporal of the Cossacks, 
with a few other yourtes for the Yakuti, who cut and bring hay 
and fire-wood, and fish and hunt; in short, maintain the estab- 
lishment, upon the terms of paying no yasack. They also accom- 



168 SORDAK. 

pany the post, and other travellers, and return with the government 
horses. This may serve, therefore, as a description of the other 
stations, of which there are but eight in the whole distance from 
Yakutsk to the Kolyma, a distance of eighteen hundred miles. 
The country round Sordak is low and marshy, with numerous 
lakes, and much fine wood, and is indeed far superior to that on 
the southern side of the hills. The officer who ke>ps the station 
is grandson of the celebrated Vladimir Atlassof, who discovered, 
and in part conquered, Kamtchatka. He entered into a history 
of his adventures, very little of which I understood. He is marked 
by a vermilion spot on his cheek, and subject to a complaint 
called Imerak, which will be hereafter mentioned. 

Among the guests was the priest of Sredne Kolymsk, or Mid- 
dle Kolymsk, who had arrived to christen some infants, as well 
as perhaps to drink an extra allowance of spirits; for his reverence 
informed me that the glass was at 43° of frost of Reaumur, in 
spite of the fineness of the day — the sun, in fact, visible; and 
though I was but little north of the arctic circle, the date being 
10th (22d) December. The old gentleman probably knew as 
much of a thermometer as I did of the Greek mass. Having well 
refreshed ourselves with the flesh of a bear and a horse, which 
had the day before fought each other to death, we departed on the 
14th towards the Kolyma. The first night we put up at a yourte, 
forty miles, encompassed by squalling children, growling and howl- 
ing dogs, and a scolding and tyrannical hostess. There wanted 
only a smoky chimney to render it complete. * Having procured 
wood for the night, on the morrow we departed, but not before I 
had got into a scrape, for hanging my cap and gloves upon the 
pins which bear the images of worship. .The infuriated woman 
complained to the Cossack of the insult. The Cossack told her 
I was an English pope, or priest, and that I was privileged: the 



SREDNE KOLYMJSK. 169 

length of my locks, as well as beard, was proof positive, and 
thenceforward I was called the English priest. 

The 2d day we reached a large and neat yourte, inhabited by 
two aged brothers who had become Christians. The eldest had 
discarded two of his wives as a proof of his faith, although the 
younger had buried three, and was enjoying happiness with a 
fourth, no great sign of his faith, or strict attention to the orders of 
the Greek church. Next day I crossed the Alazea, a considerable 
river, running into the Frozen Ocean= This part of the world is 
most abundantly rich in fish, game and cattle; and the few inha- 
bitants upon its banks live exceedingly well. They supplied me 
with a couple of geese, with ducks and frozen fish, which is of the 
first quality. From the Alazea I kept company with a pedlar, 
half Yakut and half Russian. I have seen several of this mixed 
breed; and although their parents are ordinary in appearance, 
have hardly ever seen the children, whether male or female, other- 
wise than with the most beautiful skin, and pleasingly formed 
features. They have also a delicate appearance, which adds 
much to the general interest. 

On the 19th December I reached Sredne Kolymsk, being one 
hundred and fifty miles from Sordak. The day was very cold, 
but the weather vvas calm. The country has been very low, but 
I am now getting into the vicinity of elevated lands. Crossing 
the magnificent stream, I shortly reach the town or commissariat, 
where an empty house was soon provided forme; and being sup- 
plied with firing, attendants and provisions, I regaled myself, 
through the kindness of the Commissary; and in short, remained 
nearly five days, owing to their inability to supply me with a fresh 
Cossack. In the interval I employed myself by walking about, 
making observations, and compiling my journal. 

The priest having, with the Commissary and principal people 
of the place, paid me a visit, the former entered my habitation 
Y 



170 SREDNE KOLYMSK. 

crossing himself, as is customary; then advancing to me, who stood 
offering him my hand, in the English style, 1 was honoured with 
his blessing, which I acknowledged by an exchange of the com- 
pliment. The old gentleman retreated in astonishment, and de* 
manding who and what I was, my Cossack answered I was an 
English priest; upon which the reverend gentleman observed he 
was in error, as one priest could not give a benediction to another* 
He then shook hands, and expressed his friendship for me. Ano- 
ther instance of the effects of my beard and of more value to me, 
though less to the priests of Siberia, arose from the circumstance 
of the Yakuti coming to me frequently with the right hand open, 
and supported by the left, which I interpreted into an asking 
of alms, and accordingly gave them something to eat. This, how- 
ever, they evidently declined, and still continued their supplicating 
posture. My Cossack afterwards gave me to understand that I 
was mistaken, for that they were begging a blessing. I therefore 
determined to satisfy the next Yakut, who appeared during one of 
my rambles along the river; and when a well dressed Yakut knez, 
or prince, demanded my blessing in passing, I gave it to him in 
the Russian style, as well as to his family when I left them. The 
prince began to unload a Souma, or leathern bag, and following 
me kissed my hand, and insisted upon my accepting a couple of 
sables; nor could all my entreaties induce him to take them back, 
that being considered the greatest insult. 

Sredne Kolymsk stands upon the left bank of the Kolyma, and 
is the residence of the Commissary, Secretary, and a few attend- 
ing Cossacks. There are about twelve or fifteen inhabited dwel- 
lings, containing about one hundred people; though, with its out- 
houses, baths, &c. it has the appearance of a large village. Its 
central position is the reason of its adoption as the residence of the 
Commissary. It produces immense quantities of superior fish, 



SREDNE KOLYMSK. ' lH 

serving equally for their own consumption and that of their dogs, 
which are numerous. 

With a poor hobbydehoy fellow, in lieu of my faithful and affec- 
tionate Cossack, Peter Trechekoff, I departed on Christmas day, 
in spite of the remonstrances and invitation of the Commissary to 
pass the holydays with him, and, directing my route along the river 
Kolyma, could not repress an inclination to melancholy, and a feel- 
ing of the loneliness of my situation. I felt that all my sorrows 
were yet to come, and that my difficulties had hardly begun. 
Yet my determination was firm, had appearances been ten times 
worse. 

At twenty miles I visited an old Yakut prince upwards of ninety 
years old, in the perfect enjoyment of all his faculties. He was a 
companion and acquaintance of the unfortunate Shalaouroff in the 
year 1764, then fifty-six years ago, when that adventurous person 
completed two expeditions to the Frozen Sea, and is supposed to 
have perished in the third. I inquired of the old man respecting 
Billings and his party; he said that was as yesterday. He has a 
comfortable dwelling, and is in good circumstances, though a sub- 
sistence by the chase seems very precarious now-a-days, as most 
of the animals, especially the rein deer and elks, have been driven 
to the north and east. 

Here I quitted the river, and then over a flat country, abound- 
ing in lakes and low brush- wood, completed forty miles: the 
weather was exceedingly cold, the thermometer never being above 
thirty-five degrees. The hills to the east had gradually disap- 
peared, and the following day we reached fifty miles by a good 
path. 

The third day I made thirty, and the fourth day forty miles, 
mostly along the river, and through and over broken ice, which 
made the journey very tedious, starting early and arriving late. 
The habitations in this district, whether peopled or not, are much 



172 MALONE. 

more comfortable than in others, and it is but justice to the people 
to say that they are cleaner and better clothed. On the fifth clay 
I started at one in the morning, and reached sixty miles, the 
greatest journey I had made in one day, in 35° or 36° of frost. I 
was obliged from the cold, to dismount at least twenty or thirty 
times, to take a run for mere self-preservation. At forty miles, 
or three in the afternoon, we drank tea in a bush, and at eight or 
nine in the evening reached the station called Malone, — exceed- 
ingly fatigued. I soon recovered however, through the kindness 
of a venerable Russian merchant, who happened also to be travel- 
ling that way, though nearly eighty years of age, sixty of which 
he had passed in Siberia, and twenty in Archangel. He gave me 
tea and a glass of corn spirits, my own having been long since con- 
sumed, with every other species of provision. I contrived, how- 
ever, through the kindness of the people, always to have plenty of 
fish, which was generally my principal food, in preference to the 
game which was offered to me, but which I much disliked. 

At Malone the track for horses is in general finished, though they 
do sometimes go as far as Nishney Kolymsk, and even to the Frozen 
Sea, in search of sea-horse and mammoth's tusks. I was now pro- 
vided with thirteen dogs and a driver, and a vehicle covered over 
with a sort of frame and oil-cloth, to keep out the cold, too great 
for me to withstand. A bear skin and warm blanket and pillow 
were also placed in it, in such a manner that I might lie down, be 
warm, and sleep at my pleasure. I got in, and it was closed after 
me, and not a breath of air could enter; so that, notwithstanding 
the intense cold prevailing on the outside, I was obliged to make 
my escape from the suffocation within, by taking out my knife and 
cutting a way through to gain fresh air. 1 have seldom been so 
sick or so angry; and pitching the covering into the snow, in this 
exposed state I resumed the journey. The dogs ran well; but 
from the effects of the severe cold, were compelled to rest a few 



NISHNEY KOLYMSK. 173 

minutes at every four miles, besides at other times, as often as was 
necessary to let me have my run. Indeed, the want of exercise 
cruelly affected me. I never was so distressed from the cold: the 
half hour stages betwixt every three or four miles were sufficient 
to freeze and fret my face desperately; and it then required no 
little self-command to be able to resume the exercise so necessary 
to counteract it. Sometimes 1 found myself so drowsy, that the 
driver deemed it necessary to use all his exertions to rouse me. 
He behaved with great kindness, and has secured my grateful re- 
collection. 

We reached fifty-five miles with the same dogs, and put up for 
the night at a Yukagir hut. Resumed next morning with increas- 
ed cold, though calm weather, and reached Nishney Kolymsk at 
noon, amid 42° of frost, according to many spirit thermometers of 
Baron Wrangel's, on the 31st day>f December, 1820, after a 
most tedious, laborious, and to me perilous journey of sixty-one 
days, twenty of which were passed in the snow, without even 
the comfort of a blanket — a great over-sight, I will not call it 
fault, of my worthy friend Mr. Minitsky: nor had I even a se- 
cond coat, or parka, nor even a second pair of boots, and less 
clothing than even the guides and attendants of the poorest class. 
I could not therefore but feel grateful for my safe arrival at such 
a season of the year, in such intense cold, and with only the 
upper part of my nose between the eyes at all injured. Had I 
not received the knee preservers I never should have arrived 
safe, unless by walking the whole distance; for when once the 
knees are frost bitten in a serious manner, adieu alike to them 
and life. 

I met, at Nishney Kolymsk, the Baron Wrangel, and his com- 
panion Mr. Matiushkin, a midshipman. It was the last day of 
the old year, and in the present enjoyment of a moderate meal. 



11f4 NISHNEY K0LYMSK. 

a hearty welcome, and excellent friends, I soon forgot the past, 
and felt little concern for the future. Quarters were appropriat- 
ed me in the Baron's own house; and with him, on the shores 
of the Frozen Sea, I enjoyed health and every comfort I could 
desire. 



175 



CHAPTER VIL 

Nishney Kolymsk — Ostrovnaya Fortress — Description of the Fair held there, 
with the Tchuktchi tribe — Observations on that people, and on Baron 
Wrangel's Expedition. 

On the morning after my arrival at Nishney Kolymsk, and while 
at breakfast, I received as a present, a couple of large fish in a 
frozen state, weighing each five or six poods, or about two hundred 
pounds weight. I inquired for what they were intended, and 
learnt, that I could not be supposed to have brought fish with me 
for subsistence; and that, as the season had already passed for laying 
in a stock, the inhabitants of course knew that I must be in want. 
During the forenoon I also received a parka, or leather frock, to 
be worn during my stay in the Kolyma. It was a handsome one, 
mounted with sables and martins. To this was added trowsers, 
cap, boots, and leather hose; in short, every article of dress that 
could be desired, and sufficient to have served me at least a twelve- 
month. Besides these articles, I was provided with a bear's skin 
for a bed, and a leather covering for a blanket, lined with hare's 
skins. Gloves were supplied me through the care of the ladies; 
and Baron Wrangel, at whose house I lodged, crowned these be- 
nevolences, besides his general kindness, in making my situation 
absolutely enviable, by fitting me with a complete suit of the dress 
of the country, to be used if necessary, or retained as a sample of 
the costume in these northern parts. By those kind and consider- 
ate supplies, both of provisions and dress, I was enabled to take 



176 NISHNEY KOLYMSK. 

my daily exercise with impunity, and could not help recalling to 
mind the words of Prior, which were fully realized in my case. 

If any nation pass their destined days 
Beneath the neighb'ring sun's directer rays; 
If any suffer, on the Polish coast, 
The rage of Arctos, and eternal frost ; 
May not the pleasure of Omnipotence, 
To each of these some secret good dispense ? 

Baron Wrangel's expedition I found in a state of much for- 
wardness, great exertions having been used in collecting dogs and 
drivers, and provisions, as well as in making new nartes, or 
sledges. I learnt that it would depart from the Kolyma in the 
month of March, in two divisions, one having for its object the 
solution of the question regarding the latitude and longitude of the 
north-east cape of Asia; and the other, a journey due north from 
the Kolyma, in search of a real or supposed continent, or rather 
the continuation of Asia to where it joined the continent of 
America. I did not hesitate to volunteer my services; but in con- 
sequence of my being a foreigner I found my services could not 
be accepted, without special permission from the government. I 
therefore made up my mind to set out for the country of the 
Tchuktchi, and to try my fortune in getting a passage through 
their country, and so to cross over Behring's Straits for America. 

During the months of January and February, we were vari- 
ously employed as the nature of the weather would allow, passing 
the time agreeably and happily enough. Among other things, I 
brought up my journal, and worked some observations for the 
latitudes and longitudes of Nishney Kolymsk. I had also placed 
at my disposal some interesting volumes which Baron Wrangel 
had brought with him. Sometimes we joined in the amusements 
of the natives, and visited them in their feasts, which are very 
numerous, and at which there is a great consumption of liquor. 



NISHNEY KOLYMSK. 177 

The ice mountain was of course one of our amusements; and our 
time was far from hanging heavy. I descended it daily during 
the fetes with one and sometimes two young girls, who expressed 
no fear in trusting themselves with a novice. Our conversation 
was chiefly relative to the expedition; each person had something 
to recommend, either for immediate benefit or as a future precau- 
tion; among others, I was so fortunate as to propose some things 
which appeared and proved of service to the expedition, and which 
were either adopted, or improved upon by the Baron. I have 
seldom seen a young man better qualified for the task imposed 
upon him, or one who possessed a more versatile genius. For his 
kindness to me I must ever feel grateful, and our short acquaint- 
ance has, I trust, been productive of a mutual friendship. 

The weather proved exceedingly cold in January and February, 
but never so severe as to prevent our walks, except during those 
times when the wind was high: it then became insupportable out 
of doors, and we were obliged to remain at home. Forty degrees 
of frost of Fahrenheit never appear to affect us in calm weather 
so much as ten or fifteen during the time of a breeze; yet to wit- 
ness the aurora borealis, I have repeatedly quitted my bed in those 
extremes of cold, without shoes or stockings, and with no dress on 
but a parka, or frock. 

To prove that I do not magnify the extremes of cold in that 
part of the world, I beg to refer to Mr. Sauer's account of Bil- 
ling's expedition, and the present Admiral of Saritcheff's account 
of the same, when 43° of Reaumur, or 74° of Farenheit, were 
repeatedly known. I will, also, add my testimony from experi- 
ence to the extent of 42°. I have also seen the minute book of 
a gentleman at Yakutsk where 47° of Reaumur were registered, 
equal to 84° of Fahrenheit. 

Indeed, there can be but little doubt that the local situation of 
the Kolyma, bordering on the latitude of 70°, and almost the most 
Z 



178 NISHNEY KOLYMSK. 

easterly part of the continent of Asia, is a colder one than Mel- 
vHle Island or the centre of the American Polar coast. Okotsk, 
Idgiga, Yakutsk, Tomsk and Tobolsk are considered equally cold 
and exposed as the mouths of the Lena, Yana, or Kolyma. Even 
Irkutsk, about the latitude of London, has yearly a frost of 40° 
of Reaumur, or 58° below the zero of Fahrenheit; yet, the utmost 
degree of cold that I have observed, I have never known attended 
by that crackling noise of the breath which has been related, nor 
with those other strange sensations which some have described; 
though I have seen axes split to pieces, and witnessed the ill 
effects of touching iron, glass, or crockery, with the naked skin, 
which will infallibly adhere to them. However, I soon had rea- 
son to consider the coldest day as the finest, because it was then 
sure to be calm. 

Nishney Kolymsk may be termed a large town in this part of 
the world, containing, as it does, near fifty dwellings and about 
four hundred people (or eighty families), which is three times the 
number of any place betwixt it and Yakutsk. It stands on the 
east side of an island in the Kolyma, about twenty-five miles long, 
and opposite to the junction of the river Aniuy. Formerly the 
town was eight miles lower down, but the bleakness of the situa- 
tion and its consequent exposure to the northern blasts, induced 
its removal to the present site, where it is protected from them by 
a range of hills. The island is covered only with low brush-wood, 
but receives fine timber which is floated down the river. No 
cultivation can of course be expected in a climate wherein scarcely 
a blade of grass is to be seen; the horses which do sometimes tarry 
in its vicinity for a few days, feed upon the tops, stumps, and bark 
of the bushes, or upon the moss. The inhabitants manage, not- 
withstanding, with great labour, to feed a couple of cows; though 
to do this they are obliged to bring the hay eighty miles. They 
are mostly Cossacks, with half a dozen pedlers, and three priests. 



THE KOLYMA. 179 

the whole of whom carry on some traffic. These reverend traders 
seem to have adopted the practice of our young boys, who will say 
their prayers several times, on those nights when they cannot sleep, 
as a sort of atonement for those nights when sleep and fatigue, or 
the like, have superseded them. In like manner the clergymen? 
as I was told, have actually said masses three times on a certain 
Sunday, and were then absent till the fourth; and being three 
brothers, of course they were not in fear of being reported by one 
another. Baron Wrangel, however acceptable he deemed the ex- 
tra masses, insisted upon the observance of religious worship every 
Sunday. 

The occupation of people in this part of the world naturally 
depends upon the season. Laying in wood for fire, hunting, and 
trading, are the winter occupations, while fishing and fowling are 
almost the exclusive employment in spring and autumn: summer 
is generally also the building time. The women embroider gloves, 
caps, boots, shoes, and various things in a neat manner. Farther 
on to the southward, they also attend to the breeding of cattle. 
Fishing may, however, be termed (he grand concern, employing 
as it does, alike, men, women, children and dogs. 

The quantity of fish caught is prodigious, as will be inferred 
from the following account. From Nishney Kolymsk to Malone 
is a distance of eighty miles; the number of inhabitants in the two 
places may be six hundred, and these consume nearly two million 
pounds of fish. Now, allowing one hundred and twenty families 
to represent the six hundred individuals, it follows that each family 
receives a portion of about fifteen thousand pounds of fish annu- 
ally, or forty pounds a day. Nor is such a quantity by any means 
too large, considering the number of dogs, which are generally 
allowed each ten herrings a day, at least during the period of 
work. In the distance above alluded to, there may be about eight 
hundred dogs, who consume above four thousand pounds of fish 



180 THE KOLYMA. 

daily, during half the year: the other half they prowl about on the 
banks of the river and lakes, and by their sagacity provide their 
own subsistence. Indeed, were it not for them, there would in- 
evitably be a plague in the town of Nisbney Kolymsk, for there 
is no filth whatever which is not consumed by them. 

The fish caught in the river Kolyma are of various kinds, but 
most of them I can only denote by their native names, as the nail- 
ma, moksou, osioter and sturgeon: the salmon is fine and plentiful; 
and the sterlett delicious; from the roe of the last is made the 
black caviar; but herrings are the most abundant of all. The 
sturgeon is converted into youkola or dried fish, for the inhabi- 
tants, while moksou is similarly prepared for the dogs; the other 
kinds are generally boiled or eaten raw by men and dogs; the 
former is deemed a most expensive plan. The species of fish al- 
lotted to the dogs, are only in cases of great necessity consumed 
by the men; such for instance was the case between the years 
1812 and 1819, when a famine prevailed to so alarming a de- 
gree, that the poor were obliged to eat the dogs as they died, 
although, to their credit be it recorded, they never, even in these 
circumstances, killed them. Indeed, these faithful animals con- 
stitute the greatest part of their riches. Yet nature appears in part 
to have provided against such emergencies, as it is a general re- 
mark, that in those seasons when fish are scarce, elks, wild sheep, 
and rein deer are most numerous, and vice versa. But many of 
the inhabitants will not be harrassed with the trouble of hunting, 
and depend entirely upon fish for their food. 

Formerly, this part of the world was highly productive in furs, 
the emperor receiving a tenth of each sort, which has at times 
amounted to as many as five thousand sables, but now -a- days less 
than so many hundreds, a quantity barely sufficient to pay the 
Yasack. The shores of the Icy Sea are still much frequented by 
the white, blue, and red fox, and near the woods sables are still 



THE KOLYMA. 181 

to be met with. In the rivers the vidra or river otter is in much 
estimation. Upon the whole, however, it appears that the inha- 
bitants look to the Tchuklchi for their winter clothing and most 
valuable fur trade. The animals of the chase seem to have been 
forced from the central to the extreme parts of Siberia, and thus 
the elks, rein deer, and argali or wild sheep, are but rarely met 
with in the Commissariat; they are now more within the reach of 
the few Yukagire descendants, who line the banks of the two 
Aniuys, and chase those animals*beyond the frontiers. Game of 
the feathered kind is nevertheless highly abundant, such as swans, 
geese, ducks, woodcocks, bustards and partridges; but as in the 
case of the wild animals, the inhabitants have neither the time nor 
the means to look after them. Could they be supplied with salt, 
or could salt works be established here, no spot in the world would 
be better supplied with food than the Kolyma; — whereas, at pre- 
sent, should they be so fortunate as to take two or three years- 
fish during one season, it must all be converted to youkola; and in 
the second summer it turns sour and becomes magotty, so as 
scarcely to be fit even for the dogs to eat. 

With respect to the salubrity of the town and district of Koly- 
ma, I fear it cannot be highly extolled, being subject to the ravages 
of many diseases, among which the leprosy, apoplexy, venereal, 
and scurvy are the most dangerous. The latter alone appears, by 
the inhabitants, to be susceptible of cure, which is by the con- 
sumption of raw fish during the winter: in the summer the disease 
never fails to abate with the arrival of fresh fish. 1 always ate of 
raw fish, as well from choice, as from a wish to conform to the 
manners and customs of the natives, confident that time and expe- 
rience must have initiated them into a knowledge of what is best 
for their climate. The two other diseases before named, especially 
the venereal, appear incurable, becoming as it were the inherit- 
ance of the children. The complaints called (liable au corps, and 



182 THE KOLYMA, 

imerachism, must also be specified; the former is a most extraor- 
dinary one, and consists in an idea that the body of the patient is 
possessed with one or more devils, attended with incessant hic- 
coughs. The parties afflicted with it are generally most delicate 
and interesting in their appearance; and it is seldom indeed that 
any individual is cured. In females it prevails to such an extent, 
as utterly to prevent pregnancy. I have seen them hiccough to 
so great an extent as to induce me to strike them on the upper part 
of the spine, in the hope of relieving them from the pain by a sur- 
prise of the moment. They persist in believing that a devil is in 
the body of the person afflicted, and that, until he be removed, the 
person will never regain health. The complaint, whatever it may 
be, the natives consider as an inheritance from their fathers. Ime- 
rachism, to which not only the people of the Kolyma, but those 
also of more northern countries are subject, is equally unaccounta- 
ble. Instead of exciting serious fits, like the last mentioned dis- 
order, it carries with it an air of merriment, as it by no means 
affects the health of the person, though it subjects him to the most 
violent paroxysms of rage, fear, and mortification. Whatever is 
said or done in the presence of an imerach will be repeated by him 
at the moment, however indecorous or improper the act may be. 
I have seen the dog-master of Baron Wrangel's expedition commit 
acts sufficient to frighten the person in company with him. While 
in an adjoining room conversing on points of duty, a slight knock 
at the bulk-head was sufficient to set him a pummelling the per- 
son with him, merely from a principle of self-defence. Of this 
same dog-master, by the way, a highly amusing anecdote is re- 
lated, and which was confirmed to me, not only by himself per- 
sonally, but also by Mr. Gedenstrom of Irkutsk, who commanded 
the expedition. The theatre was the frozen ocean, and the ime- 
rach's dogs and narte were the headmost. One forenoon they en- 
countered a large white bear; the dogs immediately started towards 



THE KOLYMA. 183 

the animal, and the driver, being the dog-master of whom I am 
speaking, stedfastly kept his place, prudently remaining by those 
who only eould assist him. In the eagerness of the dogs, sharp- 
ened probably by hunger, they became entangled with one another, 
and were almost rendered useless. The driver seeing the state to 
which he was reduced, resolved to attack the bear with his ostol 
(a stoutironed stick with small bells, which serves tostop the narte), 
and accordingly presented himself to the enraged bear, who im- 
mediately raised himself upon the hind legs, and began to cry and 
roar most bitterly; the imerach followed the example. The bear 
then began to dance, and the driver did the same, till at length 
the other nartes coming up, the bear received a blow upon the 
nose and was secured. It appears that the nose is the only part 
vulnerable without fire-arms, and even then, they can be secured 
only by being shot through the head. The white bears are, how» 
ever, by no means a dangerous animal, avoiding the chase as much 
as they are avoided. — Another instance of imerachism which oc- 
curred in a distant part of the general government of Siberia, may 
be related in this place, to prevent again adverting to those ludi- 
crous scenes which hourly attend it. Two old ladies in Kamt- 
chatka, one, the mother of a Mr. Tallman, an American, who had 
married a Russian girl, the other, the wife of a Russian, who were 
both afflicted with the disease, were sitting at tea opposite to one 
another, when Mr. Tallman, in a gentle manner, put his hands 
behind their backs, propelling the old ladies towards each other, 
upon which they instantly exchanged tea-cups, and saucers, while 
the really offending party stood enjoying the mischief. There can 
be no doubt that the complaint is rendered worse by the constant 
annoyance and irritation to which they are subjected for the 
amusement of others. 

Nishney Kolymsk has formerly been celebrated by the rank of 
the people banished thither. The famous Count Golofkin, one 



184 THE KOLYMA. 

of the ministers of Catherine II. was for many years a resident, 
and ultimately died there. He was considered as a great intriguant, 
but of an eccentric character, a proof of which is afforded by his 
constant habit of putting himself, servants, and even his house into 
mourning, on Catherine's birth, name, or coronation day. This 
open and determined opposition utterly precluded his pardon, and 
Nishney Kolymsk contains his tomb. The conduct of a Livonian 
baron, at one time high in the esteem of the same princess, me- 
rited and obtained more favourable consideration. The baron 
successfully applied himself to the breeding of cattle, in the vi- 
cinity of Sredne Kolymsk, but his pardon arrived so late, that his 
age and infirmities prevented his acceptance of the proffered boon, 
and he, his wife, and two children, lie buried in the church at 
Kolymsk; his eldest son returned to St. Petersburg, and became 
re-possessed of the honours and wealth of his father. To such 
men an expatriation to this, the most distant part of Russian Si- 
beria, must have been severe beyond measure; cut off for ever 
from fortune, friends, rank, society, and every enjoyment that 
could render life desirable. 

The only meteorological phenomena which occurred during my 
stay at the Kolyma, was the aurora borealis. The scene fell far 
short of my expectations. I understood however, that the months 
of October and November are the most proper to view them in 
their greatest splendour. Those which appeared during my stay, 
were generally from the north, and consisted of columns of fire 
moving in an horizontal direction, and generally disappearing in 
the south-west; the height of the columns being from 50° to 60°. 
At times an immense illuminated space from north to east, would 
advance very close to us, and throwing up rays, or rockets of fire, 
and, forming into concave arches, approached us so near, as ap- 
parently to endanger our situation, exhibiting at the same time 
every colour of the rainbow. The most beautiful aurora which I 



THE KOLYMA, 185 

saw was at midnight of the first of March; the wind was from the 
north-north-west, and the glass at 36° of cold. The aurora occu- 
pied the whole circle of the heavens, at an elevation of 28° or 30°, 
and gradually rising, disappeared in the zenith. The figure was 
as an illuminated tent, with festoons, or fringes at the lower part, 
and which had an appearance as if constantly receiving accessions 
of fire, which were equally distributed to it from every part of the 
foundation of the tent. The illuminated part gradually diminished, 
in splendour as it approached the zenith. It lasted about two 
hours, and did a little affect the electrometer. The view of it was 
rendered exceedingly fine and interesting, from the fact of our si- 
tuation being as it were in the inside of the tent. 

Among the books in our library was Captain Burney's Chrono- 
logical History of the North Eastern discoveries of the Early Na- 
vigation of the Russians. It appeared to me so extraordinary a 
production, and so deserving reply, that I addressed a memorial or 
letter to that effect to the Royal Society. Whether that learned 
body have received it or not I am unacquainted, at least in an of- 
ficial manner. I shall not, however, trouble my readers with a 
copy of it, because the person who occasioned it has paid the debt 
of nature. As connected with this journey, I had certainly con- 
sidered it becoming the attention of the Royal Society, because 
the Memorial was professedly addressed to that body, and was 
only not received from a want of form. Mine was also equally 
faulty, and consequently could expect no better reception, being 
addressed, not to the President and Secretary, but to the Secretary 
and President of the Society. 

Baron Wrangel and his party leaving us on the 27th of February, 
I attended him ten miles down the river, when I wished him every 
success, and returned. 

On the 4th of March I left the Kolyma, in company with Mr 
Matiushkin, midshipman, and a few merchants, whose nartes wer 
Aa 



186 THE KOLYMA. 

loaded with tobacco and iron utensils. The weather was fine, be- 
ing but 25° below frost; yet we had not got more than fifteen miles, 
before we were obliged to halt, on the banks of a lake, being un- 
able to make out the path from the depth of snow. Our route lay 
on the Aniuy, having left to the north the high lands which defend 
the town of Nishney Kolymsk. I passed the night very tolerably 
in the snow; but it was otherwise with my friend, who as yet had 
not experienced the inconveniences of these nocturnal sojournings, 
and of course was not initiated into the mysteries of the comforts 
to be secured by precautionary measures. The following day we 
passed through a thick forest of pines, in the greatest danger of 
broken heads, going with a velocity almost incredible, and at every 
descent of a hill dashing up against the trees. Thirteen dogs were 
provided for me. We made thirty-five miles in this manner, and 
reached the little Aniuy, a considerable, rapid, and dangerous river- 
A charity yourte received us for the night, and we fared very well. 
The low lands, which extend from the Kolyma to the eastward, 
being now passed, we entered upon a more elevated country, and 
were cheered with meeting and overtaking a great number of 
sledges, whose owners exhibited the same smiling faces, the result 
no doubt of as sanguine hopes, as those of the great merchants of 
London or Amsterdam, on the eve or expectation of a great fair. 
The right bank of the little Aniuy is formed of slate mountains; 
the left a vast uninteresting flat. The river, which has many 
islands in it, winds a good deal, and exhibits some good scenery. 
The descendants of the Yukagiri inhabit the banks of the two 
rivers Aniuy, and serve as a sort of neutral nation between the 
Russians and Tchuktchi. They were formerly a formidable and 
warlike people; and it cost the Russians much trouble to subjugate 
them. Indeed, in such fear were they held, that the Empress Ca- 
therine absolutely forbade their language to be spoken. They are 
now all but extinct, as a pure race, but one old woman existing 



OSTROVNAYA FORTRESS. 187 

whose parents were both Yukagires. The remainder are in fact 
descendants of Russians, who have intermarried with them. They 
are certainly the finest race of people I have seen in Siberia; the 
men well proportioned, and with open and manly countenances; 
the women are extremely beautiful. What their origin was, it is 
now difficult to say. 

The third day we reached an inhabited yourte, where many of 
the merchants awaited us, as they could not go to the fair before 
a certain time. The river was also in some degree an impedi- 
ment to their proceeding, as the velocity of the stream prevents 
firm ice being ever formed. Two of the merchants, in attempting 
the passage, got a severe ducking, and narrowly escaped with 
their lives: the breadth of the path being but five or six feet, and 
so slippery in some places, that unless the driver be very well 
qualified and accustomed to the place, it is difficult to prevent ac- 
cidents. The wood on the Aniuy is of considerable growth, for 
so northern a situation; but the root has seldom more than twenty 
inches depth. 

I witnessed, for the second time, the first being at Sordak, the 
mock suns and moons, and columns on each side of them, at equal 
distances; but these parhelia were by no means brilliant, owing, 
as it appeared to me, to the rather warm weather; I shall, there- 
fore, await more favourable appearances, before I attempt their 
description. 

On the 8th of March we reached the Fortress, the river bor- 
dered with the same elevated high slate lands on the right, and 
low flat on the left bank. At seven miles, on this side the fortress, 
the scenery begins to improve; and the fortress itself may be said 
to be a most romantic spot. It is distant from the Kolyma one 
hundred and fifty miles. During summer the place must be very 
pleasant. There are twenty yourtes, about two hundred people, 
and a large wooden building, fit for any thing except defence. 



188 OSTROVNAYA FORTRESS. 

The whole stands upon an island, surrounded by elevated and well 
wooded hills. There is very little grass, but much moss. The 
view of the river is exceedingly picturesque; and the fortress is 
decidedly the most favourable place to reside in I have seen from 
Yakutsk, a distance of near two thousand miles. 

The inhabitants on the banks of the river are not numerous, 
and subsist very scantily by hunting, there being few fish in the 
river. Famines are therefore of frequent occurrence, bread not 
being supplied by the government. Elks, rein-deer, and argali, 
are what the people most depend upon; formerly they were abun- 
dant, but now are much reduced, owing to the peopling of the 
country by the Russians, who hunt rather to exterminate the breed 
than to procure subsistence. During the fair, the inhabitants 
make the best of their time in trading and becoming a sort of 
store-keepers to the traders. 

Having settled ourselves in a small Yukagir yourte, Mr. Mati- 
ushkin and I received a visit from one of the Tchuktchi, a most 
empty countenanced and wild looking savage. He entered the 
room where we were, tumbled himself down upon a stool, smoked 
his pipe, and then quitted the room, without once looking at, or 
taking the least notice either of us, or any thing about us. The 
commissary having made his appearance, it was determined to 
commence the fair, by first installing two of the chiefs with medals 
and swords, baptizing them, and receiving a nominal tribute. The 
morning was ushered in by the arrival of these persons in state, 
diessed in their gayest apparel, and seated in a beautiful narte, 
drawn by two reindeer, the whole forming a cavalcade of twenty- 
five or thirty pairs. Having reached a large store-house, to which 
the altar and images were carried, the priest proceeded to baptize 
the two men, their wives, and three children; but instead of being 
merely sprinkled with water, they, men and women, were obliged 
©ne and all to strip, and to be three times plunged in a large iron 



THE TCHUKTCHI. 189 

cauldron of ice-water, with the thermometer on the spot at 35° of 
Reaumur, with no part of the dress on except their trowsers; and 
were afterwards directed to bathe their feet in the same cold water. 
I could not help pitying the women and children, the former of 
whom having long hair, became, as it were, enveloped in icicles. 
A small cross suspended round the neck completed the ceremony. 
A quantity of tobacco was then given as a present to each of the 
new converts, by way of inducing others to follow the example. 
Instances having, however, occurred of late of Tchuktchi being 
twice baptized, and even of presenting themselves a third time, 
for the privilege of the presents, the good people of Irkutsk begin 
to be tired of sending either their missionaries or tobacco to such 
a people. 

The ceremony finished, the same cavalcade joined by the other 
chiefs, or Toions of the Tchuktchi, proceeded to the abode of the 
commissary, whither Mr. Matiusbkin and 1 followed. The com- 
missary then made the usual declaration, 'hat the fair could not 
begin until he had received a tribute for the Emperor Alexander, 
on which the principal traders advanced and laid each a red fox 
skin at the feet of the commissary. The nanus of the donors, and 
the value of the skins were then regularly entered in the official 
records, and the commissary proceeded to invest two of the chiefs 
with a medal and small sabre, reading to them publicly a letter, 
which he is supposed to receive from the chief of Yakutsk, declar- 
ing it to be the Emperor's order so to invest the chief, or Toion; 
the clergyman then advanced to give his benediction to them, and 
the poor ignorants became quite happy, quite proud, and ultimately 
quite drunk. 

The next topic started was that of my desire to accompany the 
Tchuktchi through their country, and this seemed to require more 
generalship than all the others. The commissary, through an in- 
terpreter, commenced by informing the Tchuktchi people, that, 



190 THE TCHUKTCHI. 

" the Emperor understanding two strange ships had appeared upon 
their coast, was willing to know who thej were, and had accord- 
ingly sent with them, agreeable to their request, two interpreters, 
one of whom understood their own language as well as the Russian, 
while the other, meaning myself, understood the languages of most 
maritime nations. The Commissary desired, as from the Empe- 
ror, that all due care should be taken of, and all due respect paid 
to us, especially to myself, who was one of the chief interpreters 
of the empire." After this opening harangue was completed, the 
turn of which inspired me with some degree of hope, one of the 
most respectable of the Tchuktchi, got up and said, that " he was 
in want of no interpreter, and therefore would not take one." This 
laconic reply completely disconcerted us. The next, an old and 
cunning fellow, called Kacharga, said " that boys and girls should 
not be attended to in a case of such importance; that he, a chief, 
had not demanded an interpreter, although a nephew of his had 
done so." He expatiated upon the impropriety of taking from 
those youths a communication of such importance, as should alone 
have come from a chief. I could not but approve the justice of 
the remark, and began to suspect the whole was a hoax, and that 
they had not made any demand of an interpreter. It was there- 
fore told them that " two nartes would be of no great consequence 
to them, and that as the Emperor had so sent, they ought to take 
us, for that we dared not return to merit his displeasure." A fresh 
consultation was hereupon held by the savages, and they came to 
a determination, " that as the great Emperor himself wisJied to send 
two interpreters to Behring's Straits, of course he could have no 
objection to pay for the transport of such people." Upon inquir- 
ing what demand they would make, they said " fifty bags of to- 
bacco," a quantity equalling one hundred and twenty poods, or 
near five thousand pounds weight. To make such a present in 
advance, was madness in me to think of, and the project appeared, 



THE TCHUKTCHI. 191 

as indeed it proved, to be wholly lost, for they added, that " he 
could be no great Emperor who could not make so small a present, 
seeing that he could command the riches of all his people." They 
also observed that " I must be a poor interpreter if I could not sa- 
tisfy the demand myself." — Alas! they might as well have demand- 
ed five millions as five thousand pounds of me. One of the know- 
ing ones observed, and I mention it as evincing the sagacity of 
those people, that " he doubted whether I was an interpreter of 
the grdat Emperor's," saying, that I " could not even speak the 
Russian language, for that he noticed the Russian Cossack inter- 
preted from the Tchukskoi to Mr. Matiushkin, and Mr. M. again 
in a different dialect to me." All this was too true to be denied. 
They then asked, " of what use I could possibly be to them, when 
I neither understood the Russian nor Tchukskoi languages." This 
last truism quite appalled the whole of us, and from that moment 
the point was given up. It was not a little singular that these 
rude people should all along have known that a third Toion, or 
Chief, for I was considered as one, was in the fair, and demanded 
who and what he was. I have, however, no idea that their refusal 
arose either from fear or ill will, but simply from avarice. 

I next day visited their camp, distant about two miles and a 
half. It consisted of three large and three small tents. The 
former contained the bulk of the Tchukskoi people, and the latter 
were appropriated to the chiefs and more considerable people. 
The large tents were disgustingly dirty and offensive, exhibiting 
every species of grossness and indelicacy. But the smaller were, 
on the contrary, very neat, clean, and warm, although without a 
fire, in 35° of frost. Indeed they were to me almost suffocating, 
being only eight feet long, five broad, and about three feet high; 
and containing three or four people huddled together in one bed, 
which is madeof rein-deer skins, and the coverings lined with white- 
foxes. The small tents are made also of the old and hard skins 



1 92 THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCHI. 

( 

doubled, so that the hair is both on the inside and out; [a large 
lamp with whale oil or fat, which serves them for a light, commu- 
nicates also considerable warmth On entering one of their dwel- 
lings, I found the chief and his wife perfectly naked, as was also 
a little girl, their daughter, of about nine years old, — nor did they 
seem to regard our presence (Mr. Matiushkin was with me), but 
ordered the daughter to proceed and prepare some rein-deer's 
meat for us; which she did, in that state of nudity, by a fire close 
to the tent. Having lolled upon the bed about a quarter of an 
hour, we were treated with the rein-deer meat half boiled, of 
which we of course partook out of compliment. 1 was, however, 
obliged to cut short my visit from want of air, and the most offen- 
sive smell I had ever endured for so long a time. The Toion, or 
Chief, was a little angry with me for quitting him, and imputed 
it to his having the previous day opposed my design of going through 
his country. Their furniture consists of a large kettle, knife, 
wooden bowls, platters, spoons or ladles; and an axe — with flint 
and steel. Having thus informed myself of the savage state in 
which they live, I returned to the fortress, driven by one of the 
chiefs in a neat narte, drawn by a couple of rein-deer in a pretty 
style. They use regular reins, made of leather thongs, and a long 
springing cane with an ivory nob to it, of the tooth of a sea-horse; 
the latter is exercised occasionally upon the rump of the animal, 
on which it is capable of inflicting a pretty severe blow. I must 
however do justice to the Tchuktchi in their very kind treatment 
and conduct to their brutes, whether dogs or rein-deer — appear- 
ing quite to consider them as pets. Nay to so great a degree is 
this feeling carried, that among this savage nation it is consider- 
ed unmanly even to ride a horse: in all ordinary cases they prefer 
to walk, and in every other way appear solicitous to lessen the la- 
bour of the animal. 

On our return to the fortress, the fair was formally commenced 



THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCHI. 1 93 

by an harangue of the commissary's, declaring the terms, the tax, 
and the penalties. The Tchuktchi had in the mean time ascer- 
tained the quantity of tobacco in the market by means of (heir 
emissaries, who are exceedingly inquisitive and cunning upon that 
point, their rudeness and apparent equality giving them free access 
to every dwelling which contains any of that commodity. They 
have their own mode of calculating, and before the fair is com- 
menced, they fix the price of their goods, to which price they ad- 
here more strictly than the Russians. The fair is held upon the 
river Aniuy, opposite to the fortress. Early in the morning the 
Tchuktchi arrive at the place of barter, and forming a semi-circle 
towards the fortress, the extremes of which reach to the edge of 
the ice, dispose their furs upon their nartes, the owners constantly 
remaining by them. In the mean time the Russians place their 
large bags or bales of tobacco in the centre of the semicircle, and 
then begin to parade and visit the Tchuktchi, enquiring the prices, 
&c. by means of an interpreter. The work entirely falls upon 
the Russian, who drags behind him for many hours, two hundred 
weight of tobacco, before he can induce the Tchuktchi to barter. 
The tobacco on the first or second day cannot be exchanged below 
the terms of an agreement made between the merchants, as three 
or four people are so posted, as to ascertain and judge of the con- 
ditions and their validity. Still, however, they do manage to cheat; 
but on discovery, the goods are forfeited, and the parties declared 
incompetent to trade any more. They are particularly guarded 
by the law as to the wetting of tobacco, or placing stones or other 
heavy things with it, to increase the weight. 

It is ludicrous enough to stand upon the banks of the river, and 
wait the appointed signal for commencing barter each morning. 
While the Tchukichi are quietly sitting on their nartes, with their 
sleeves drawn back, and their arms thrust into their bosoms to 
keep them warm, the Russians, on the contrary, start pell-mell: 
Bb 



194 THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCtil. 

pots, pans, kettles, knives, swords, hatchets, scissars, needles, &c. 
are rattling in every direction, like so many chimney sweepers on 
May-day; priests, officers, Cossacks and merchants, men, women 
and children, alike fantastically dressed with articles of traffic, of 
which tobacco constituted the chief. A few bells, pipes, and 
corals also, served to grace the dresses of the more wealthy and 
whimsical pedlers. For all the small articles the Russians rea- 
dily enough received fresh meat, which was much wanted. The 
heavier skins and sea-horse teeth also were ready for sale by the 
Tchuktchi at a reduced price; but the inducement which the 
Tchuktchi have to sell bears, wolves, and rein-deer skins, namely, 
their weight, and the expense of transporting them, operate to 
prevent the Russians from buying them. Sea-horse teeth were 
particularly flush on the first day, but nothing would do, the tax 
and penalty were feared, and little business was done. No in- 
stance occurred of the Tchuktchi selling below the rule, but two 
Russians, brothers, were detected in it and committed to prison 
until the close of the fair. The price or rate which the Russrans 
had set, was a martin park, somewhat like a carter's frock, of 
twenty skins, and fifteen red foxes for a hundred weight of tobacco; 
while the Tchuktchi held it at a park and ten red foxes. The 
second day was brisker and more business was done; from fifteen 
red foxes and a park of martins, the Russians descended, by gene- 
ral consent, to twelve and eleven foxes. Still the Tchuktchi gen- 
erally held on, compelling the Russians, meantime, to walk about 
making offers. What, however, with cunning, and breaking off' 
the agreement, a good deal of business was done; but the third 
and last day's fair was the best and most lucrative for the savages, 
when neither tax, nor penalty, nor perjury, were feared; each in- 
dividual, from the commissary to his secretary and priest, and 
from the Cossacks to the merchants, all busily employed in un- 
dermining his neighbour. I could scarcely believe that in so 



THE FAIR WITH THE TCHUKTCHI. 195 

small a number of individuals there could exist so great and gen- 
eral jealousy, but so it was, and many quarrels ensued. 

I never saw better judges of tobacco, nor of weight, than the 
Tchuktchi. I can confidently assert that they do not err one 
pound in the hundred weight; and the detection of the slightest 
fraud on the part of the Russians is sufficient to the Tchuktchi to 
cut the party short, and deal no more with him. Their mode of 
trying the strength of tobacco is this: a leaf of it is taken and 
squeezed in the hand as hard as possible, and if any appearance 
of moisture be left in the palm, it is well known that the tobacco 
has been watered; if the leaf preserve the compressed shape which 
the force of the hand has given it, it is weak; but if it recover and 
expand quickly to its original size and shape, the tobacco is deem- 
ed strong. And such is their nicety of judgment in ascertaining 
this point, that an allowance of goods is given or received on 
the celerity with which the leaf returns, after compression, to its 
natural shape. 

The last day's sale, although of course the best, was held back 
a little by the Tchuktchi wishing to make the Russians believe 
that they had no want of tobacco, as they could get it much 
cheaper in the bay of St. Lawrence, from the ships which casually 
call there. Whatever trade they may carry on with those vessels, 
the Tchuktchi appear to know the value of a more direct and first- 
hand trade; nor can this be doubtful, when the toils and dangers 
of their journey and the small profits are considered. The fair 
lasted seven days, which is three more than usual, the two first 
and the two last, may, however, be considered as nothing, being oc- 
cupied in the lowest species of retail, in which deliveries are made 
so low as for sixpence or ninepence. Upon the last day of the 
real fair or fifth from the commencement, the vodka (spirit) began 
to make its appearance, and its effects were successful in inducing 
the Tchuktchi to bring forward, for sale, the black and brown- 



196 THE TCHUKTCHI. 

foxes. They sold however very dear, and were nearly all taken 
back wilh them to their country. 

The trade of the commissary, secretary, their friends, and Cos- 
sacks, was done to so great an extent, and with so little principle, 
that the licensed trader could do nothing, except at a considerable 
loss. The former have a wonderful advantage also, in bringing 
their goods into the market, from being able to make padvodies, 
or public levies of dogs, &c. as if for the public service. This 
however cannot rank among those abuses laid to the charge of the 
Emperor; for, if the offenders' salaries were increased tenfold, the 
same practice would be continued: they would still trade, and still 
act, in the same unfeeling way. " A want of education, or ava- 
rice, begets a want of morality."* Baron Wrangel has done all 
he can to remedy this evil, but, the moment he retires from the 
scene, the same conduct will be resorted to, forming as it does, a 
considerable revenue to those holding the command. All extra 
services of the crown, as those for the post, expresses, forwarding 
of the bread, spiriis, and public stores, are thrown upon the poor, 
while priests, nobility, all officers of the crown, and Cossacks, who 
possess the best means of carrying such services into execution, are 
exempt. The poor, having no dogs, are obliged to hire them at 
exorbitant rates from the rich. Every narte taken for the use of 
the public during the fair is a loss to the poor of sixty roubles, or 
near three pounds. The number of nartes which have been thus 
at certain times required, may be conjectured from the fact that 
while I was there, the commissary demanded one for himself, 
others for his secretary, servant, Cossack, and chancellary; and a 
sixth for his provisions. The chief priest also demanded severally 
for himself, assistant, Cossack, altar, baggage and provisions. The 

* Auri sacra fames ! quse non mortalia cogis 
Pectora !— 



THE TCHUKTCHI. 197 

object of the former was to register the receipt of twenty-three red 
foxes, being the yasack paid by the Tchuktchi; that of the latter, 
the christening and registering of seven savages, and all the pro- 
visions they carried could not have exceeded forty pounds weight; 
consequently there could have been no necessity for such padvo- 
dies. I am one of the last persons to discountenance, in the least 
degree, the general design of converting to Christianity the savage 
tribes dispersed over various parts of the world, but I think it must 
be regretted that such project should ever have the effect of strait- 
ening or burthening those who are born Christians. As to the 
present case it is to be hoped the liberality of the government will 
extend to this distant and impoverished place, by paying the inha- 
bitants for all services performed for the crown. This would pos- 
sibly prevent much abuse, and at least have the effect of disbursing 
a sum of money, of little consideration to a government, though 
highly acceptable to the governed. 

The fair at length finished, I prepared to depart for Nishney 
Kolymsk, with many thanks to my venerable Yukagir host for all 
his kindness. I passed the time very agreeably at his house; he 
was a very good chess player, and was fond of the game. His 
manner of play added another instance to many I have witnessed, 
that there is, in various parts of the world, little or no difference 
any where in the moving of the pieces. I have played the game 
with Yakuti, Tongousi, and Yukagiri; but the Tchuktchi laughed 
at me for such a childish employment of my time. While upon 
this subject, I may remark as a circumstance relative to this peo- 
ple, which has repeatedly surprised me, that wherever a people 
recognize and play the game, they are infallibly Asiatics. Neither 
the Tchuktchi nor the Koriaks understand any thing of it, but all 
the Kamtchatdales are familiar with it. 

The features of the Yukagiri lead me to suppose them Tartars, 
and not a race very distinct from the Yakuti. They are, however, 



298 THE TCHUKTCHI. 

almost Russified by intermarriages, and the question of their ori- 
gin is become difficult. There were at the fair two or three of 
the Chuanse, or Chodynse, a tributary nation, inhabiting the coun- 
try between the two Aniuies and the Anadyr: their features are 
Asiatic. 

The information I received from the Tchuktchi by means of tire 
interpreter Kobeleff, son to the Kobeleff who attended the expedi- 
tion under Captain Billings, I will give in the same laconic style 
in which I communicated it to the Governor-general of Siberia 
from Nishney Kolymsk. My letter in the first part, described 
what articles were sold by the Russians; as tobacco, kettles, knives, 
spears, needles, bells, scissars, pipes, axes, spoons, coral beads, 
and other small ornaments, a few pieces of red and blue nankeen, 
and white cotton. For these the Tchuktchi brought four or fire 
hundred sea-horse teeth, a few bear's skins, rein-deer dresses, and 
white foxes, and these with some frozen rein-deer meat, make the 
whole productions of their own country. The other articles of fur 
come from a nation on the American continent, called the Kar- 
gaules; two of whom were at the fair. They bear more nearly 
the features of the Tchuktchi than those of the hideous-mouthed 
inhabitants of the islands in Behring's Straits, although with a 
browner or more dirty colour. The furs brought and sent by them 
consist of many thousands of black, brown, blue, red, and white 
foxes, martins, and martin parks, some beavers, river otters, bears, 
wolves, sea-dogs, and sea-horse skins; a few articles of warm cloth- 
ing, and some ornaments carved out of sea-horse teeth, represent- 
ing the animals common among them. 

The value of the exports on the spot, taking them at four hun- 
dred bags, or forty thousand pounds weight of tobacco, at three 
roubles a pound, is one hundred and twenty thousand roubles; to 
this add sixty thousand for the value of the other articles, and we 
shall make the exports amount to about one hundred and eighty 



THE TCHUKTCHI. 199 

thousand roubles, or seven thousand guineas. The value of those 
articles at Yakutsk, as purchased by the traders, is not one-third, 
leaving, after the deducting of carriage expenses, which are con- 
siderable, a clear profit of about one hundred or one hundred and 
twenty per cent., and would be much more, but that so many peo- 
ple trade against each other, and that the traders are altogether too 
numerous. The market is overstocked with tobacco, not one-half 
being disposed of. The value of the imports may be known by 
reference to the tax, recollecting that the furs bear almost the same 
price at Yakutsk as at the Kolymsk, although distant nearly two 
thousand miles, by land;, the return of the horses, however, enable 
the merchants to go back cheap. 

A bag of tobacco of one hundred pounds weight is worth three 
hundred roubles, an J iron work of fifty or sixty roubles value is 
exchanged for a martin park, worth ninety and one hundred rou- 
bles; fifteen red foxes, two hundred and fifty to three hundred rou- 
bles; and a pair of boots and park of rein-deer skin, worth about 
forty or fifty roubles; making altogether about four hundred rou- 
bles, which brings the exchange on the spot, as nearly as can be, 
equal, for the tax is not adhered to. Now if one bag of tobacco 
produce four hundred, four hundred bags will be equal to one hun- 
dred and sixty thousand roubles, which constitutes the imports, be- 
ing the same value as at Yakutsk. The merchants have also the 
benefit of a great trade on their journey along the rivers, with the 
Yakuti; and this is really the most advantageous branch of it, for 
they will extort even three and four hundred per cent. 

The Tchuktchi parted with less than a third of their most va- 
luable furs, taking the rest back. I inferred hence, that they have 
not the means of conveyance for more than four hundred bags of 
tobacco, and the other articles sold with these; otherwise from their 
love of that article, and the demand for it by the iimerican savages, 
they would no doubt purchase it for the small and valuable furs. 



200 THE TCHUKTCHI. 

Indeed the demand for this commodity is so great, that at the Ana- 
dyrsk and Idgiginsk fairs the Russians do not give in barter with 
the Tchuktchi one-half of the quantity which is given at Kolymsk, 
and consequently the Anadyr Tchuktchi are prohibited by the rest 
of their nation from trading to the Kolymsk, for fear of spoiling 
the market. 

There were this year at the fair, which is termed a good one, 
two hundred and fifty nartes, and five hundred rein-deer, with 
sixty-eight men, sixty women, and fifty-six children. Each rein- 
deer can draw three and four poods, or one hundred and fifty pounds 
weight. Those which come to the fair return only to the river 
Tchaon, where they are exchanged for those which belong to, and 
which had come from the Bay of St. Lawrence. Seventy-five and 
ninety days are required for them to perform the journey, which 
is about eight hundred versts, or five hundred miles. 

There were three chiefs at the fair: first, Yebrashka, who com- 
mands the tribes inhabiting the banks of the Tchaon, Packla, and 
Kvata rivers, as well as the country towards Shelatskoi Noss. 
Second, Valetka, chief of the Belo Morsky Tchuktchi, which 
tribe inhabit the eastern sea coast, from Cape North to the Bay of 
Klasheui. Third, Kacharga, who commands the Tchukskoi 
Noss, or East Cape tribe, who inhabit the Noss, and the coun- 
try from thence to the Bay of St. Lawrence. The first are 
wanderers, and live by their rein-deer, which are employed 
for burthen between the river Tchaon and the fair, and in the 
trade of sea-horse teeth. The second subsist almost entirely by 
fishing and hunting, added to a small tribute, or toll of tobacco, 
which is paid by their southern neighbours for a free passage along 
their coast; they have no rein-deer. The third tribe subsist by 
traffic, and the breeding of rein-deer, of which they have con- 
siderable herds, and are employed from the Bay of St. Lawrence 
to the banks of the Tchaon. There is also a fourth chief who 



THE TCHUKTCHI. 201 

commands the Tchuktchi of Anadyr Noss, a tribe who inhabit the 
country and banks of the Anadyr, and also subsist by traffic and 
the breeding of rein-deer. These chiefs live equally distant from 
each other about one hundred and fifty or two hundred miles, and 
carry on a sort of intercourse by means of the eastern coast 
Tchuktchi, who are provided with baidares. 

The Tchukskoi Noss race are the most numerous; those of the 
eastern coast the most warlike and hardy; the Tchaon, or Shelat- 
skoi are the most friendly, and those on the Anadyr Noss are the 
richest. The whole are nominally independent, but actually 
tributary; for the Yasack though small, is enforced and conscien- 
tiously paid. Their existence as an independent tribe hangs on the 
will of Russia, for that independence will at any time be sacrificed 
to retaiu their trade. Their whole number cannot exceed four or 
five thousand. The Kargoules are represented by them as far 
more numerous, but the Tchuktchi cannot count past a hundred, 
or ten tens, that is, their fingers ten times over. Each tribe has 
a different dialect of the same language, and all understand one an- 
other, though the dialects are extremely difficult to articulate; so 
much so, that the interpreters, after the three days of the fair, are 
generally laid up with a sore throat. 

In the conversations I had with the Toions or Chiefs (the same 
word used in America, and in the same sense), I understood them 
to have no knowledge nor tradition of any land north of Iheirs; 
that the sea is for ten months so frozen, that nothing but moun- 
tains of ice are visible; that during the months of August and Sep- 
tember the ice breaks up, but not in such a manner as to admit a 
passage for vessels. They told me also that large herds of rein- 
deer roam from cape to cape, but do not come from the north be- 
yond the sea. To the west of Shelatskoi Noss, termed by them 
Erree, is a large and very deep bay, into which the Packla and 
Tchaon discharge their waters; and in this bay two islands, the 
Cc 



2Q2 THE TCHUKTCHI. 

one called Ayon, small and near the Noss, abounding in sea-horse 
teeth, the other llleree, large, and producing fine moss for the rein- 
deer. The latter has some few residents both in winter and sum- 
mer; in the former season catching and killing wild rein-deer for 
the fair, in the latter feeding the tame rein-deer; I was told that 
half-way across the south side of the bay, there is a high mountain 
of rock. That from their habitations on the Tchaon and Packla 
rivers to Shelatskoi Noss it is only one day's journey with rein-deer, 
a pair of which are represented by them as capable, upon an emer- 
gency, and in hard frosty weather, of drawing a sledge with one 
person fifty or sixty miles. Shelatskoi Noss does not, by their re- 
port, run far into the sea, but is elevated, and has a narrow passage 
between it and their country, in truth an isthmus, which forms a 
small bay, without islands, to the east of the Noss. I was also 
made to understand, that the coast from the bay on the east of the 
Noss, trends a little to the right of the rising sun. The Noss is 
formed by the Tchaon and Packla rivers on the west, and the 
Kvata and Ekakta on the east, and the Tchaon bay, by Shelats- 
koi Noss and the island of llleree. The Pogitcha river is repre- 
sented as not the same with the Anadyr, but a small yet rapid 
stream which from the east enters the Tchaon. And lastly, that 
the whole of their country is so mountainous, so barren, and so 
deep in snow, that laden rein-deer cannot come straight from the 
Bay of St. Lawrence, but are obliged to coast along the valleys on 
the shore, until they reach the Packla, where their route changes 
from NW. to SW. ! 

Fish is said to abound in the northern rivers, on the eastern 
coast, as well as in the Bay of St. Lawrence, which last is the 
only place where ships can anchor, and is formed by the Tchuts- 
koi and Anadyrskoi Nosses. They have no knowledge nor tradi- 
tion of any nation called the Shelages, but they recognize the word 
kopai, as applicable to thp name of a person in their language. 



THE TCHUKTCHI. 203 

They know nothing either of their origin or first settlement in the 
country, nor of the Tartar nations subject to Russia, nor do they 
understand any Tartar words. Their language bears no affinity 
to the Asiatic, though it is understood by the Koriaks. The fea- 
tures of the Tchuktchi, their manners and customs, pronounce them 
of American origin, of which the shaving of their heads, punctur- 
ing of their bodies, wearing large ear rings, their independent and 
swaggering way of walking, their dress, and superstitious ideas, 
are also evident proofs: nor is it less than probable that the Esqui- 
maux, and other tribes of Arctic Americans may have descended 
from them, for several words of their languages are alike, and their 
dress perfectly similar. That New Siberia has been inhabited 
there is no doubt; many huts or yourtes still existing, and there 
are traditions in Siberia, of tribes having been compelled from 
persecution, as well as from disease, to quit their lands or those 
beyond the seas. The persons of the Tchuktchi are not peculiarly 
large, though their dress, which is clean but of enormous size, 
gives them almost a gigantic appearance. They have fair or clear 
skins, but ordinary though masculine features. In conduct they 
are wild and rude. They have no diseases, and live to a great 
age; two of the chiefs at the fair being past seventy, as calculated 
by the number of voyages they had made ere they accompanied 
Captain Billings. I did not find them idolatrously fond of spirits, 
as they refused to change furs for that alone, though they would 
readily receive it, and in preference bargain with the donors. They 
appeared a bold, suspicious and irascible people, and though very 
avaricious, perfectly honest, and not inhospitable. They appear 
to trust to their nominal independence to conceal their actual weak- 
ness, and magnify their numerical strength. They have a respect 
for their chiefs, and do not live in that perfect state of equality 
which has been supposed, though they purposely affect that equality 
in the presence of the Russians; when the most common of their 



204 THE TCHUKTCHI. 

nation will enter a Russian dwelling, behave rude and churlish, 
keep his capon, take what he wants without asking, and ultimately 
quit without the slightest thanks, acknowledgment, or appearance 
of feeling. The chiefs on the contrary are extremely correct in 
all that concerns their conduct with the Russians, sitting with their 
caps off, asking for what they want, and making themselves by no 
means unacceptable guests. 

The whole of them are ingenious, cunning, industrious and ex- 
cellent mechanics, which is proved by the symmetry, neatness and 
quantity of their nartes, clothes, tents, arms, and ornaments. They 
have no religion, but a sort of regard to some sorcerers or people 
held by them in veneration. They are allowed to retain five wives, 
whom they may put to death upon discovery of any criminal inter- 
course; holding also the power of compelling them to such crimi- 
nal intercourse, an act by no means unfrequent, when the husband 
is in want of an heir or son. 

Upon the whole, the Tchuktchi appear to be approaching to 
Russian subjection; and I am confident they would never object 
to a traveller or travellers exploring their inhospitable country, 
provided they received a remuneration; and nothing prevented my 
being able to accompany them, save their avarice and my poverty. 
I felt, however, happy in establishing the fact of being permitted 
to go on some terms, because it will enable the Russian government 
to take the first opportunity of exploring their country. Yet I 
would advise such as are employed to be particular in their con- 
duct; they will have to do with a people jealous and suspicious, 
but who, although cautious in giving their word, are truly faithful 
in keeping it. He who shall feel inclined to accompany such a 
savage race through their inhospitable and uninteresting country, 
must doubtless be prepared to undergo very great fatigues and pri- 
vations; he should be inured to cold, as he will, doubtless, have to 
walk the whole distance, and on no day exceeding four or five 



THE TCHUKTCHI. 205 

miles. He should also be tall, stout, and strong, for such and such 
only the Tchuktchi both fear and obey. 

The manner of dressing their food, is by boiling when wood can 
be procured, which, however, is not frequently the case during the 
winter season. They then generally consume frozen meat or fish, 
which with them, as with the others in rein-deer countries, is con- 
sidered a necessary and extravagant luxury: warm and raw mar- 
row is also their greatest delicacy. The flavour of their meat is 
most exquisite; free from that soft and flabby taste, common to rein- 
deer and veal, with a flavour somewhat between beef and mutton, 
more tender than the one and less so than the other. They drink 
tea, and are exceedingly fond of sugar. Tobacco is their great 
commodity, which they eat, chew, smoke, and snuff at the same 
time. I have seen boys and girls of nine or ten years of age put 
a large leaf of tobacco into their mouths, without permitting any 
saliva to escape; nor will they put aside the tobacco should meat 
be offered to them, but continue consuming both together. They 
are said, no doubt, correctly, to drink only snow water during the 
winter: to melt which when no wood is to be had, very disgusting 
and dirty means are resorted to. Nothing is so acceptable to a 
rein-deer as human urine, and I have seen them even run to get 
it, as occasion offered. In closing the account of this strange peo- 
ple I may mention one remarkable circumstance: a kettle or cook* 
ing utensil is in their language called cookee, but whether the word 
proceeds, as I conjecture, from the remembrance of the name of 
Captain Cook, who first supplied them with that utensil, or from 
the English word denoting the use it is applied to, I admit to be a 
question. To these vessels which are of iron, they are much at- 
tached, and the stronger and stouter they are, the better; nor will 
any consideration induce them to take or purchase a copper vessel, 
although lined with tin, as they consider it poisonous. Plain raw 



206 BARON WRANGEL'S 

iron are preferred, and these they will fearlessly and with impu- 
nity handle in a temperature of forty degrees^ of frost. 

My return to the Kolyma occupied me only two days, partly 
from the hunger of the dogs, there being little or none of their 
common food offering for sale on the banks of the Aniuy. I was 
most happy to meet with the Baron Wrangel, who had returned 
from his expedition round Shelatskoi Noss; I received from him 
the following account. He was absent a month upon the whole, 
and followed the course laid down in the chart of reference, 
which proves that the information I had derived from the Tchuk- 
tchi was perfectly correct; as well as the contents of my memorial 
to the Royal Society, which the Baron had previously read. A 
bay exists to the east of Shelatskoi Noss, which is in about 70° b' 
latitude, the longitude about 175° E or 6° east of Baranov Ka- 
mene, which is exactly half-way between Cape North and Bara- 
nov Kamene. Tchaon bay, with its two islands, and the dwel- 
lings between the island of Uleree, or Sabedei of Shalaouroff, and 
the main land, were also recognized by the Baron. They were 
doubtless inhabited, as the expedition was in their tracks for three 
days. The run of the coast from the Kolyma to Shelatskoi Noss, 
is about ENE. and that from the Noss to the East, very easterly 
from Cape Kuzmin. 

No doubt whatever can be now entertained of Deshneff hav- 
ing gone round the NE. Cape, no other impediment but ice ap- 
pearing to exist; as little, or less need there be, of Shalaouroff's 
having reached it, he having actually described Tchaon Bay, al- 
though he placed it too far to the northward, as he did also She- 
latskoi Noss, while in fact, the theory of Mr. Coxe respecting this 
country is perfectly correct. Baron Wrangel and Cook may be 
said to have seen across the intervening space which has not ac- 
tually been traversed by Europeans. 

The present moment appears the best for introducing an extract 



EXPEDITION. 207 

of Baron Wrangel's letter to me, after his journey across the Fro- 
zen Sea. The Baron observes that, although I should otherwise 
hear all particulars about the expedition to the north from Kolyma, 
still he fee!s disposed to give me some information on the subject. 
" I have," he continues, " used your suggestion with some altera- 
tions, and what has been done during the last voyage, is certainly 
done by this invention of yours; used in such a manner as I used it, 
it proved to be tres risquant. It was indeed a very happy accident, 
that the white bears having circumnavigated the ice mountain, on 
the top of which I had made the storehouse, several times, did not 
attempt to ascend it, as they, the bears, would have had no difficulty 
in destroying such fortifications; although I before thought to the 
contrary, especially as the dog-master said, that none of the dread- 
ful white bear regiment, had either force or ability to rob us either 
of our own or the dogs' provisions, out of its strong concealment. 
Nevertheless, I have seen, during the late voyage, such tricks of 
these white bears, that the precautions I took for the preservation 
of our provisions I call a happy accident. Should I make the same 
voyage the next spring, I will take no fire- wood at all, but take 
wood prepared to build a stronger cellar within the ice, and dry 
moss, with fish-oil, shall serve to boil the tea-kettle; a circum- 
stance which will much relieve the dogs, as to point of weight, 
as well as serve us upon our return in respect of fire- wood." 

Although 1 cannot but do justice to the Baron's general and 
scientfic knowledge, I confess I do not know precisely what he 
means by the term happy accident. The idea I suggested was to 
prevent an accident, and I suppose, therefore, the Baron meant that 
it was a happy circumstance that the bears did not ascend the 
mountain, as in that case the precautions taken would have been 
useless. To enable the Baron to go farther, with more case to 
the dogs, two days' provisions for the homeward voyage were to 
be buried at every third day's outward voyage: the plan of secur 



208 BARON WRANGEL'S 

ing such provisions of course must be left entirely to the ingenuity 
of the party travelling, as well as to the means presented by the 
situation of the ice. But I think, with half a dozen people, I 
could secure provisions in such a manner as, not indeed to elude 
the sagacity of the bears, but to prove the inefficacy of their 
strength, when put in competition with the sagacity of man. 

The Baron next proceeds to point out the rather dangerous situa- 
tion in which he was latterly placed, the last nine days of his 
journey being over a field of ice, in general but half a foot thick, 
although only in the latter part of April. During many parts of 
this journey, they came to open channels, five and seven feet wide, 
and each night brought with it strong north and north-west winds, 
which made the ice tremble beneath their cold pillows. At times 
sounds like the roar of thunder would assail their ears, yet prove only 
to be the shattering of ice hills, and the severing of the fields of ice. 
At one period the Baron, and his friend Mr. Matiushkin, were 
gone in quest of a white bear, to feed the dogs, which had suffered 
much, when the ice broke under their feet with such a noise, that 
Mr. M. actually called out " what will now become of us?" 
while the Baron was so convinced of its being thunder, that he 
looked to the south, in expectation of seeing the lightning that must 
precede the second peal. The Cossacks, however, pointed out 
that the ice was breaking, which induced him to make the best of 
his way towards the close ice, then distant three or four miles. 
The dog-master and Cossacks expressed much regret at continu- 
ing the direct course, but, fortunately, they arrived safe and reach- 
ed the Kolyma in the beginning of May. I have used the term 
fortunate, as the subsequent spring and summer, or rather the con- 
tinuation of winter, proved the most extraordinary ever known at 
the Kolyma; a severity attending them which might have permit- 
ted the commander of the expedition to risk much more in point 
o^ time than Baron Wrangel then thought prudent. 



EXPEDITION. 209 

The ice did not break up until the 29th May, OS. The cold- 
ness of the summer was most extraordinary. On the 20th June, 
2d July, and 3d August there was much snow, and one degree and 
a half of cold of Reaumur, without intermission, accompanied 
with constant NW. gales. The month of May, although so cold,, 
was the only agreeable weather during spring or summer; and the 
appearances of a bad season were very distressing. Neither the 
small rivers running into the Kolyma, nor the Kolyma itself, had 
on the 15th of August produced any fish, in consequence of the 
height of the waters. The only hope of the poor inhabitants and 
of the expedition, rested on the interval betwixt the time of the 
river freezing and the month of December. On the 13th August, 
the Baron received information that the rein -deer chase on the 
Aniuy and Omelon had entirely failed, and that the Yukagiri were 
in a state of starvation. The 22d August it snowed hard, and 
continued to snow till the 25th, when the lakes were all frozen 
over. On the 30ih August, Baron Wrangel was frozen up in a 
boat in the Kolyma, and hoary winter was dated from that period, 
as the river now became passable. 1 shall here conclude my ob- 
servations respecting this indefatigable young officer by saying, 
that, for a combination of personal exertion and sacrifice, with the 
most undoubted scientific knowledge, especially that of practical 
and theoretical astronomy, so necessary to conduct an expedition 
of this nature, I believe Baron Wrangel has no equal in the Rus- 
sian navy. 



Dd 



210 



CHAPTER VIII. 

iTepartufe from the Kolyma — Lapteff— Sredne Kolymsk — Kosatchey-Ostrog 
— Verchne Kolymsk — The Zyzanka — Hokusolbetee and Bocheera— 
Boulouktak — Kourouack — Terachtack, &c. — Kourdak — Andigezan — In- 
tack — Omekon — Nera-— Indigirka, Rivers — The Tongousi Tribe — The 
Koudousou and Kounounaksala Rivers — The Okota — Okotsk. 

Winter was still raging with all its severity when I prepared to 
quit the Kolyma. I could now, indeed, have no inducement to 
remain longer; my desire of penetrating through the country of the 
Tchuktchi no longer existed, but for the purpose of getting across 
to the opposite continent: and as I had failed, through the avarice 
of the savages, I determined to proceed to Okotsk, by the direct 
route, in spite of the remonstrances of the commissary, Cossacks 
and Yakuti, who were ordered to attend me wherever I might go. 
The proper mode was by that I had previously come; but I wish- 
ed of course to avoid near two thousand miles of such sameness 3 
independent of my desire to reach Okotsk by the first of June. 
The Yakuti were so fearful of a route of the kind, that they even 
attempted to bribe me with presents to take another; but I was 
resolutely fixed upon the new route, and the result will show that 
I had only myself to thank for the difficulties 1 encountered, and 
the narrow escapes I had so often for my life. To me, however, 
the hardest day's work was followed by the happiest evening, and 
the soundest sleep as I lay down on my snow pillowr 



DEPARTURE FROM THE KOLYMA. 211 

With grateful recollections of the hospitality and kind treatment 
I had experienced from every individual in the commissariat of 
Kolyma, I departed on the 27th of march in a narte royal, that is, 
one drawn by thirteen dogs, who took me eighty miles in one day; 
a prodigious day's journey, as it is considered in this part of the 
world, for the same dogs to perform. The 1st of May is, how- 
ever, the period usually calculated on for the Omekon rivers break- 
ing up, and 1 was a long distance from it; I was therefore com- 
pelled to hasten, to prevent a detention on the banks of it for six 
weeks. I could not but feel melancholy and sick at heart at part- 
ing as it were from a brother, in the person of Baron Wrangel. 
However, I pushed forward, and in three days reached Lapteff, 
one hundred and eighty miles from Nishney Kolymsk. The 
weather was most variable: in the early part of the morning we 
had 15° of frost, at noon as many of heat, from the reflection of 
the sun, and in the evening again, 10° of frost. The mornings, 
before the sun appeared, were the coldest I ever endured, being, 
really, more severe than 40° of frost, owing to the heavy fogs which 
prevail in the latter end of March and beginning of April, which 
strike an indescribable cold to the whole frame. 

At Lapteff I met my old friend, the venerable prince of ninety- 
one. He had just returned from a visit to another prince, twenty 
miles distant, and insisted upon accompanying me the following 
morning; and such was his health and capability to bear the pierc- 
ing morning air, that while I was compelled to walk, as it seemed 
to save my life, the old Yakut Prince was quietly walking his 
horse to a sort of humming tune, which may be said to constitute 
a Yakut's song. There is no regular meaning in what they sing, 
being made up of any incidental allusions to the weather, trees, 
rivers, fatigues, horses, and the like, according to the Immediate 
impulse of the moment. 

From Lapteff I continued my route to Sredne Kolymsk, where f 



212 SREDNE KOLYMSK. 

arrived on the fifth day at noon, much fatigued. I was exceed- 
ingly gratified wilh the repetition of old kindnesses and remem- 
brances on the part of the inhabitants, as I came along. They 
were cheerfully looking forward to an early summer, in which, 
alas, they were bitterly disappointed. They were constantly pre- 
senting me with the first partridges and hares, which the approach- 
ing sun had sent in advance; and even other early delicacies were 
given me in aid of the long journey I had before me. 

The day that I reached Srednc Kolymsk I started a large gray 
wolf, and being on horse-back was nearly thrown into the snow, 
as I had repeatedly been before. A burnt child is said to dread 
the fire, so a bit horse dreads a wolf: the one 1 rode had so suffer- 
ed. The only pleasure I experienced in Sredne Kolymsk was 
being housed in the comfortable abode of my old attendant, who 
was in the absence of the commissary, chief of the department. 
I renewed the protestations of my fidelity and good will towards 
a person I felt so highly indebted to; and the certificate which I 
gave him of his extraordinary good conduct and kindness towards 
me was, I am happy to say, occasion of his being made a serjeant; 
beyond which, though he does not at present aspire, he will neces- 
sarily attain, as any under officer, whose conduct is good in that 
rank for a certain number of years, may demand the rank of an 
officer as a recompense. 

I remained wilh my old friend a couple of days, awaiting a 
fresh Cossack, who was ordered to attend me to Okotsk. I felt 
most happy in preparing once more to tread a new road, and throw 
aside the difficulties which were for ever thundered in my ears. 
The poor young love-sick Cossack destined to attend me I could 
not but pity. He had a positive fear of going to Okotsk, so far 
from his wife, a pretty young girl, and then again to Yakutsk, 
where he would be detained five or six months, and thus be kept 
from his home at least a twelvemonth. These indeed were no 



KQSATCHEY-OSTROG. 213 

small complaints. Leaving his home at that time had this addi- 
tional consequence, that his presence was then most wanted to 
assist in fishing. The case was not, however, so bad as my 
readers may imagine; for when a Cossack is absent from his 
home upon the public service, his family still receive the pro- 
portion of fish which would have accrued to him had he been pre- 
sent; on such friendly terms do the people live in this part of the 
world. And upon my promising him that he should return direct 
to the Kolyma, he was reconciled, and we prepared to depart. 

Our first day's journey was to a place called Kosachey, sixty 
miles, by a good path, on the Kolyma, abounding with summer es- 
tablishments for fishing, else a dreary low waste producing nothing 
but stunted wood. I felt really happy in the evening in the com- 
fortable residence of a rich Yakut, who had married a Cossack's 
daughter. She was dreadfully afflicted with the hiccoughs, and I 
again tried my medical skill, by giving her a slap on the back. It 
had no effect; and her husband then told me that she had the deea- 
vel ootra, or the devil in her belly. It was apparent there was some- 
thing in the case ; but whether a devil or a child, I do not pretend 
to know. Whatever it was, it effectually deprived me of sleep. 
The malady continued the whole night; though it seems the par- 
ties afflicted with it can, during the fit, sleep soundly: but on the 
instance I have this day seen of its effects upon a lovely young 
woman 1 will not dwell: it is too melancholy. 

The following day, over numerous large lakes, and a rich pas- 
ture country, I resumed my journey. Many Yakuti live in the 
environs, employed in fishing, and in the chase of bears, rein-deer, 
sables, and squirrels: the latter are here innumerable. In the af- 
ternoon we were thrown into a snow pit: the fall and plunging of 
our horses threw us off our saddles; and the horses finding them- 
selves disengaged from their burthens, scrambled up the pit, and 
left us and our baggage to shift as we could. After ten miles 



214 KOSATCHEY-OSTROG. 

walk we reached a yourte, whose owner saddled his own beasts, 
and sent them for the baggage, while our own Yakuti went in 
search of their own horses. I was, mean time, made perfectly 
comfortable, and amused myself with the tricks of a shamane, or 
sorcerer, some of which were indeed strange enough. He wore a 
sort of short surtout covered over with a variety of small pieces of 
iron, about the size and shape of the pointed blade of a pen-knife; 
his boots were embroidered, as were also his cap and gloves. 
The performance of course began by smoking a pipe; then taking 
his tambourine and bolouyak, or tambourine-stick, he seated him- 
self crossed legged near the person to be exorcised, and began to 
sing a doleful ditty, accompanied by more doleful music; the im- 
port of the song I could not gather. After this introduction he 
began to jump, hop and fling about, roaring, screaming, and mak- 
ing the most hideous distortions of face and body, so that I actually 
believed him to be mad. I never felt more pain for any one than 
I felt for this shamann, certainly much more than for the sick per- 
son, on whose behalf his incantations were made. After this vio- 
lent exercise, he drew his knife, and, to all appearance, plunged 
it into his belly. I really felt alarmed, believing that he had ac- 
tually committed suicide: he, however, drew back the knife in 
my presence without any effusion of blood, and indeed without 
any actual incision being made. He then formally announced 
that the evil spirit would not triumph, provided the customary 
sacrifice were made, of a fat mare. The party were then dismissed 
with an invitation to come to the next day's feast, when the mare 
was to be cooked. In all this conjuration, there was indeed no 
slight of hand, but rather a slight of the belly, and the case is that 
the shamanns are, from habit, accustomed to draw in that part of 
the belly which the knife is supposed to penetrate, to a distance 
of five or six inches; they never however use other than their own 
knives, from fear, I presume, of their being too long. The power 



KOSATCHEY-OSTROG. 215 

of these impostors over the ignorant multitude is very great, but 
they do not wander far from their principality, nor are they nu- 
merous. Their pretensions extend to the cure of diseases, chang- 
ing the weather, affording successful chase, and finding stolen 
things. 

In the early part of the evening, a ludicrous circumstance occur- 
red betwixt the above shamann and myself. I had invited him to 
take tea with me; and when he came I put a little tobacco in the 
palm of my Cossack's hand, to give to the shamann. The Cos- 
sack, however, carelessly or ignoranily put it into the tea-kettle, 
supposing it to be tea, and the mistake was not known until the 
kettle was brought boi!ing-hot, and pouring it out, we discovered 
by the flavour it was tobacco-water. The shamann was highly in- 
dignant and enraged, the people of the house still more so, and 
the sick person must die, unless a second sacrifice was made. 
This I was extremely anxious to avoid, and the only remedy I had, 
was to part with half the spirits I possessed, which, although a 
loss of consequence to me, I readily endured to prevent the im- 
postor from procuring a second gormandising feast, at the expense, 
if not the ruin, of the poor people. As it was, the shamann got 
roaring drunk on the result of the mistake, and so I left him. 

The horses did not return with the baggage till near midnight, 
when one bag of my clothing was missing, as well as my pipe; 
the last, a serious loss, as it was my friend, companion, comforter, 
and almost sole enjoyment. I could have mourned for it, like 
Sancho after his dapple, but it was fruitless, and I accordingly 
wished the possessor the enjoyment of it for my sake. Next day 
over a stubby heath, affording a fine view of the mountains to the 
south-east, we gained sixty miles. I observed on the lakes, nu- 
merous parties fishing through the ice, who gave me a supply 
whenever I desired it. On the fourth day I reached Verchnc 
Kolymsk late in the evening, suffering much from the loss of skin. 



216 VERCHNE KOLYMSK. 

which left my nose and lips bare. The whole distance was two 
hundred and fifty miles. 

Verchne Kolymsk is considered a large village, having fifteen 
dwellings, with near two hundred inhabitants. It stands in a most 
bleak and exposed situation, on the right bank of the Yasashna, at 
about a mile from its junction with the Kolyma. It was at this 
place that the vessels for Billings's expedition were built, the country 
to the southward abounding in fine timber: and yet it is considered, 
although so far south as the latitude of 60° 30', to be one of the 
coldest places in Eastern Siberia, the thermometer falling as low 
as 43° of Reaumur. Verchne Kolymsk has nothing remarkable tp 
boast of but a large cross erected by Billings, on which are cut out 
the names of the European people who composed his expedition 
— an expedition which performed nothing. I remained one day 
to change my Cossack, preferring rather to beat up for a volunteer 
than to take on the old one, but to no purpose. Whether from 
fear of me or of the journey it is unnecessary to enquire. 

My route from the Kolyma was towards the Koussoul Boloukfak, 
a lake so named from a fish which inhabits it. The first part of 
the journey was attended witb a little snow, but I felt consoled by 
the number of pigeons and hares which increased our sea sloi es, for 
thus I may name them, since I had really more to do with water 
than with land. At length I reached the Zyzanka, and at twenty 
miles farther, the last habitation of the Kolyma district. We halt- 
ed in a rocky hill, and encountered some difficulty in bringing fire- 
wood for the night, from a distance of at least half a mile. The 
second day, with infinite labour, through deep and soft snow, we 
reached twenty miles further, encamping at the foot of the moun- 
tains which I had before seen stretching from the south-east. The 
guide who though a Yakut, spoke Russian well, proved a choice 
and jovial fellow; while the Cossack, a dull and melancholy milk- 
sop, was throwing every possible obstacle in my way to induce me 



THE ZYZANKA. 217 

to take the other road. This, it appears, from letters which I have 
since received, he was directed to do by a person holding an official 
situation; an act, which if known at the government of Yakutsk, 
Irkutsk, or St. Petersburg, would, I am sure, have been visited 
with severe punishment: but commissaries in such places are gen- 
erally both mean and worthless. Still along the banks of the 
Zyzanka we continued to the south-west, picking up at intervals, 
partridges and hares which had fallen in the traps. The scenery 
at times somewhat interesting, and the hills composed of slate. 

The road I was now upon was that formerly used by the post from 
Yakutsk to the river Kolyma, that is by way of Okolsk, but dis- 
continued in consequence of the difficulties which constantly pre- 
sented themselves, as well as by the discovery of the direct route I 
had before undertaken, and of which I have given a sketch. By 
this route a man can never be satisfied, as when there is much snow, 
there is more labour; and when little snoW, much water ; and 
when no snow, much ice and more danger, for the ice becomes so 
slippery as to be almost impassable. 

The reflection of the sun at first produced severe effects upon my 
eyes; but I met it with a good grace, as neither sun nor snow would 
give way to me. From the Zyzanka 1 entered a narrow defile 
formed by two lofty ranges of mountains, the valley betwixt which 
runs from east to west; the latter was my course. The southern 
range were bold and perpendicular, and consequently bare rocks. 
The northern branch, which was open to the south, rose into gentle 
and luxuriant eminences, affording fine contrast to the desolation 
on the left. Our party continued to feed upon partridges and 
hares from the charity traps. The birds are beguiled by touching 
a small wooden fork, supporting a log or tree which falls direct on 
the animal and causes instant death. These traps are so numerous, 
that I have in a day got three and four braces of hares and par- 
tridges. They are set by the wandering Yakuti and TongousI^ 
Ee 



21S HOKUSOLBETEE AND BOCHEERA RIVERS. 

open to all the world, with an understanding only, that the trap 
sha*l be again set — no hard condition to hungry people. 

We at length entered upon the Hokusolbetee and Bocheera, 
two rivers, which, entering the Zyzanka at a narrow defile, form 
a sort of frozen torrent, over which the horses had great difficulty 
to pass, as piles of ice lay in every cross direction. The Cossack 
and guide now began also to suffer, while I was gaining ground 
from habit and superior strength of constitution. The guide was 
almost blind, while the Cossack was afflicted with a severe 
diarrhoea arising from want of food, for our game had failed us, 
and he was too much a Greek to eat horse- meat. It was, however, 
his own fault, for he always ate voraciously whenever an occasion 
offered. With these two invalids I resumed the journey, prescrib- 
ing for them, but without effect, and at noon was obliged again to 
halt, as they were unable to proceed. The heat of the sun by 
Fahrenheit was 80°, and the route was bad, ascending a perilous 
and laborious chain of elevated hills. The work which now de- 
volved upon me was so much more than ordinary, that I could not 
but feel it severely: it was, however, my duty to assist those whom 
I had demanded to assist me, and I could make no complaint. 

The snow was deep, but soft, the noon-day heat melting the 
surface, and the night's frost again freezing it, just sufficiently to 
bear a man with snow shoes; so that in addition to our other dif- 
ficulties the horses began to fail. We nevertheless continued our 
route, gaining the Zyzanka, and latterly crossing the mountains 
which confine it. We then entered the most dismal, dreary, and 
inhospitable valley I have ever seen; not a blade of grass, nor moss ? 
not a shrub, tree, nor even a morsel of drift wood to be seen, but 
one tremendous slate mountain valley. We encamped on the 
banks of the stream; faring upon our frozen horse flesh and a little 
biscuit — my spirit was all consumed, and I longed to reach some 
habitation. My poor Cossack now grew worse, having been three 



THE BOLOUKTAK. . 219 

days without food, and so weak that it was necessary to lash him 
to the horse. The guide was almost bl ; nd, being unable even to 
bring the horses in from the pasture. I was thus compelled to 
perform the functions of ostler, wood-cutler, guide, doctor, cook, 
and traveller: I took little heed of it, and slept the sounder. 

Leaving this desolate valley, our route lay over a few rugged 
hills, by a path which seemed to point itself out as the proper 
route. We soon entered upon the river Koulgall, and the romantic 
valley of Bolouktak, named from the lake and stream, the latter 
of which enters the narrow defile in the elevated southern ranges. 
The prospect is most beautiful: tolerable sized wood occupies the 
fore ground, with a small hill, which I ascended, to obtain a bet- 
ter view of the magnificent panorama. To describe it would re- 
quire a far more able pen or pencil than mine. The southern 
range appeared much indented, and seemed to cast a shade over 
their otherwise milky appearance. Two yourtes on the borders 
of a lake were on the left, while from the right, the river winded 
over the plain. The whole view occupied from south-west to 
east, and from west to nortb-east, so that the valley runs from 
east-north-east to west-south-west. The breadth of it is about 
twenty miles. I remained at a miserable yourte five days, to see 
what I could do in restoring the Cossack, but in vain, and depart- 
ed with a Yakut, six feet high and stout in proportion, the largest 
I have ever seen. He was, however, a mere brute, not knowing 
a word of the Russian language; a great glutton, stupid, obstinate, 
and immoveably lazy. 

It was with great reluctance I commenced the road with him, 
but there was no alternative, he being the only person who knew 
any thing of the route towards the Omekon. At about fifteen 
miles, having passed three small lakes, we reached (he base of the 
southern range of hills. We ascended them against wind and 
snow, and night closed in upon us as we had reached thirty miles 3 



220 TERACHTACK, ETC. RIVERS. 

in the bosom of the mountains. It was impossible to keep in a 
fire from the driving of the snow; I therefore managed as well as 
I could, while my half savage gigantic companion comforted him- 
self with at least twenty pounds of frozen horse-meat. 

Next day I crossed with my companions the Kourouack moun- 
tains, at the base of which runs the little rapid river of this name, 
which we passed with difficulty as it was giving way very fast to 
the warmth of the sun, the thermometer standing at 27° of Reau- 
mur. The mountains now exhibit a constant and uniform suc- 
cession of equi-lateral triangles, or pyramids of stone slate, with 
layers of the same yellow earth called Stone Butter, which I have 
before noticed as being eaten by the aborigines. The next river 
was the Terachtack and Ootachan-Taroon Oract, or large icy 
river, as it signifies in the Yakut dialect. Our route proved diffi- 
cult, now over overflowed meadows and large rivers, or elevated 
mountains, well wooded with larches, alder, and some pine. On 
the fifth day we ascended a stupendous peak, which overlooks not 
only the surrounding country but also the other mountains; it is 
almost a bare rock, and was so slippery that the horses got very 
severe falls in the ascent, rolling back in one moment as much 
as it had taken ten minutes labour to achieve. I almost de- 
spaired of gaining the summit, but we at length succeeded, and 
then the horses actually slid down the opposite precipice of one 
hundred feet high, the rock being covered with frozen snow. For 
myself I considered it, as it really was, an ice mountain, and de» 
siring the guide to follow, passed down without any accident. I 
was now indeed in a desperate dilemma; but Providence, which 
ever watches the wants of all his creatures, sent to my assistance 
the sick Cossack, who having got better, and being without bag- 
gage, had followed our track with a couple of horses. He came 
in time also to tell us that we had mistaken the route. His duty 
pointing out the necessity of seeing me safe to Okotsk, I did not 



TERACHTACK, ETC. RIVERS. 221 

feel so thankful as I else should, because I suspected that most of 
his illness was pretended, and that conscience had told him he was 
acting wrong, or he would not have returned. 

We passed the night in a dreary situation, without any fire. 
My tea and bread were both consumed: nothing in short remained 
but horse flesh, which I found very good. The Cossack had 
brought a few birds, but as I knew that such dainties were all he 
could, or would eat, of course I gave them up to him. Next day 
we considered how to ascend the mountain; the snow was solid 
and slippery, and there appeared no other mode than the one 
which we adopted, — creeping up the side, and chopping the sur- 
face, with a hatchet, at frequent intervals, to obtain some sort of 
footing. In this manner I and the Cossack ascended, and making 
all the leather thongs fast together, we hauled up the baggage and 
let it down on the opposite side; thus placing ourselves between 
it and the horses. To get up the latter required more manage- 
ment; for accustomed as the horses are to the most laborious and 
dangerous journeys, and with all their sagacity and tameness, I 
found they could not ascend above half the mountain, before they 
were compelled to give it up, and recoil once more to the base in 
a state of perfect agony. Thus passed the day! Our situation now 
seemed desperate; the horses had received no food for two days, 
during which we had enjoyed no fire: yet still ' neboice avoce lebo' 
(fear not — perhaps) were the rallying words, and these alone 
served us for supper. Our monster of a guide was quite insensi- 
ble to our situation, and sat grumbling that he had not more than 
twenty pounds of meat a day, with such hard work. 

This night was passed even more miserably than the last, as 
we had not even the benefit of our bedding or clothing, both of 
which had been hurled down the opposite valley, without respect 
to whom they belonged. We rose, the third morning, prepared 
for hard work; and our first attempt was to haul the horses up the 



TERACHTACK. 

precipice. We in part succeeded, as the strongest were actually 
received, and cast adrift on the opposite side to feed. This occu- 
pied us all day, and the third night was passed with the cheering 
hopes of resuming our journey the following day; but these were 
frustrated, as it was not until late in the evening that we succeeded 
in passing all the horses we designed to keep: one we were obliged 
to kill and carry with us as food. Our bully-headed Yakut too 
became wonderfully alert on this occasion, knowing he should 
receive an extra allowance of meat, were it for no other reason than 
to lighten the other brutes. I however determined to make some 
reserve, and accordingly taking a quantity of the slaughtered animal 
sufficient to serve the Yakut on his return, I buried it in the snow, 
which 1 thought would continue unmelted for ten or twelve days, 
and marked the place with a cross. 

The only mode of passing the last three horses, was by making 
a regular stair case up the hill, by means of axes, and strewing it 
with earth, myself and the Cossack who were on the hill, holding 
a rope attached to the horse's head, while the guide behind whose 
task it was to flog the beast had no sinecure, as from his immode- 
rate size, he was almost himself incapable of moving. The result 
of the last five days was that we had lost five days' travelling, five 
days of the best season, and five days which were worth fifty of 
those which followed. The weather was still very cold, and I 
felt some relief in getting close to a cheerful fire. Next day I 
directed my course by a compass, for the guide knew nothing 
about west south-west, intending if possible to gain the river Indi- 
girka. We crossed many hills, deep in snow, and left two horses 
dead, a circumstance which seemed to please the guide, whom I 
was consequently obliged to declare under martial law; being con- 
fident that he cared not if I and the Cossack perished. I was now 
compelled to put the little baggage we had left upon the spare 
Worses, and we all continued the journey on foot, encamping for 



KOURDOUK, ETC. RIVERS. 223 

the night on the banks of the Kourdouk, which we traversed the 
next day with tolerable ease; being clear of snow, with a fresh 
breeze right-aft: in the evening it turned to rain, the first real 
shower since September, as we halted on the banks of the same 
stream, having walked about fifteen miles. We passed the night 
in a sort of growling way, and renewed our journey towards the 
Terachtack over a pleasant pasture and well wooded country. 

All the rivers which I had lately passed, run into the Indigirka, 
and although small, are rapid streams. My guide was now so 
negligent and useless, that I was compelled to desire the Cossack 
to flog him with his own whip in a manner which, in England, 
would justly have been considered severe; but I am satisfied the 
necessity and danger of our situation justified the measure, for the 
fellow was really deceiving us, to say nothing of the risk which was 
very great, unprovided as we were with nets or fire-arms. Leav- 
ing another horse to abide his fate, we continued on, dividing the 
extra baggage between us. We crossed the Ambardach and Chous- 
gindrach, adding another walk to the fatigue we had undergone; 
and being still eighty miles from the nearest habitation, we rested 
at a rich pasture two days for the sake of the horses, and on the 
third reached the Andigizan, Intach, and Omekon. The country 
had now become gradually very agreeable and open, and the 
weather was very fine. Great quantities of game, as geese, ducks, 
partridges and woodcocks hovered over our heads, and we saw 
numerous traces of quadrupeds; as bears, wolves, foxes, rein-deer, 
and hares, with sometimes that of an elk. The last day of this 
journey through an extra effort, induced by the hope of success, we 
reached the first habitation of the Omekon district; walking and 
swimming that day near thirty miles: I say swimming, for we were 
frequently obliged to wade across the rivers, and to swim over 
many yards of rapid stream, which I accomplished for myself, by 
means of a rope fastened to a horse's neck. I reached, all well, 



THE VALLEY. 

jhe Bolouvanach, and then the more considerable Nera, all rivers 
which unite with the Indigirka. I was received at a yourte, the 
most pleasant and hospitable, as I then thought, I had ever seen, 
where I procured two fresh horses to carry the baggage, and con- 

inued the route, leading all the other horses, now reduced to five. 
My overgrown guide was of course discharged. I could not 
even remain a moment to refresh, as the rivers were breaking up 
and threatening to insulate me for some months from the rest of 
the world. The Omekon river was still distant one hundred and 
fifty miles, and I had scanty means of reaching it under four days, 
even supposing assistance given: but I pressed on, gratified to catch 
now and then in the distant horizon the sight of smoke, which I 
had not seen during the last journey of more than three hundred 
miles. Not one individual stationary or wandering had I met 
from the lake Bolouktak: but now we were, as may be termed, 
risen from the dead, renewed with fresh courage, and my Cossack 
particularly inspirited with a regale of beef which had been given 
him at the first yourte. For myself, I preferred to partake of the 
old horse meat I had still left; having a mind to shame the Cos- 
sack, and show him that he ought to eat any thing, when necessity 
dictated. I had passed twelve days without any other food than 
the horse meat we had brought, and a small part of the animal we 
had killed; yet I was never in better health. In this state I reach- 
ed the hospitable abode of the Prince Nicolai. Our journey had 
lain on the Nera and Indigirka, the country sterile and dreary and 
as desolate as Zashiversk, lower down the same river. The second 
day I again halted at the abode of a Yakut Knez (prince), who 
presented me with half a rein-deer, and treated me with milk and 
tea, making me, as I thought, the happiest of men: — such is the 
effect produced by present comforts and enjoyments upon past 
hardships. 

Independent of the provisions given to me, I was obliged to re- 



OMEKON. 225 

ceive two red foxes, as a tribute. They were presented to me by 
the hands of a tolerably good looking Yakut girl, whose father, 
with two other princes, formed a pan of my train to the abode of 
the prince of the Omekon, where we arrived the following day. 

The latter part of the journey changed for the better; from rug- 
ged and sterile bills, and marshy swamps, to beautiful rising and 
well wooded eminences, and fertile meadow lands; from perfect 
desolation, to comparative populousness. The first sight of so 
many smoking chimneys gladdened my heart in an unusual degree. 
I felt the value of life, and never enjoyed it more than in the 
hospitable yourte oL Peter Gotossop, the Yakut Prince of the 
Omekon. He had come thirty miles, in consequence of an ex- 
press, to meet me. I need not say how much I enjoyed a bed of 
rein-deer skins in his yourte, after lodging fifteen days, without 
intermission, in the snow. 

The valley of Omekon is indeed a romantic and fertile spot. 
About five hundred individuals are reckoned within its principality, 
who are scattered about, wandering with the numerous droves of 
cattle, as the season and height of the river will permit, or compel. 
The woods are very fine and large, consisting of birch, pine, larch, 
and cedar, the last producing a highly flavoured, though small nut, 
which is exported to Okotsk and Kamtchatka. 

The quantity of cattle in this valley is prodigious, no less than 
three thousand mares, and near two thousand cows, the property of 
the few rich Yakuti. The consumption of them is, however, not 
small, especially of horses, owing to the great demand made by the 
government, in forced levies, for Okotsk, and the more northern 
districts. But so fond are the Yakuti, of their horses, that to avoid 
selling them, and sending them upon such a service, they drive a 
couple of young bullocks, as an exchange for a horse, to the first 
place, or will present another person with a young bullock, for each 
horse that is supplied him to carry on the extra service. The duty 
Ff 



226 OMEKON. 

thus performed by them is undertaken purely for gluttony. The 
substitute instantly makes a feast of the young bullock, and trusts to 
the strength of his horse to make good the duty imposed upon it; 
yet, strange to say, it is seldom that a respectable Yakut will either 
ride himself, or suffer others to ride, much less will he load a good 
horse: indeed, they are kept rather for show than use: thus the duty 
falls upon the poor. In the event of a horse falling on the road, 
the Yakut is of course obliged to buy or get another as he can. 
Sometimes he will exchange in time, by giving three for two, and 
five for two, according to the state they are in: generally, however, 
he will kill them, and employ other people to perform the latter 
part of the journey, giving or promising a dead horse or two in 
payment, and himself returning on foot. 

I remained three days at the Omekon; and was again obliged 
to leave my Cossack, from ill health and fatigue. Having pro- 
cured in his stead a young lad, born in the valley of Omekon, 
with him and four of the native princes in my train, I departed 
along the banks of the river, running along one of the most pic- 
turesque and finest valleys in the universe, yielding the best grass 
in the province, and abounding with animals of the chase. Hav- 
ing reached thirty miles, we put up at the yourte of a wealthy 
Knez. In the passage of the river each horse was attended by 
four men, owing to the velocity of the stream; the men resisting it 
by means of stout poles thrust into the bed of the river on their 
leeward side. The passage was certainly dangerous, but neces- 
sary to be accomplished without delay, before the melting of the 
snow on the lofty and magnificient mountains all around render 
the river terrific and impassable. The Omekon uniting with the 
Indigirka not far from hence, constitutes the latter for a season a 
first rate river in Siberia. Already, the meadow lands on each 
side of the river represent innumerable lakes, which are swum 
over by the horses with much difficulty. At eighty miles we ex- 



OMEKON. 221 

changed horses: here I had a difference with the Cossack and 
guide, as to what horse I should ride, both insisting on the one 
proposed to me being the most proper. As I did not like his ap- 
pearance, I said I was not accustomed to take the best in their 
estimation, nor even in my own; therefore I would be content 
with that which was already saddled for the guide. The latter 
said it was a vicious one, that it stumbled, startled, and, indeed, 
had all sorts of defects, I persisted, however, in observing to the 
guide, that I was accustomed to those matters, and, therefore, 
preferred giving him the best horse. 

Recourse was at length had to frighten me out of my determina- 
tion to attempt the journey to Okotsk at such a season of the year. 
The princes proposed that I should remain with them three or four 
weeks, when the rivers would subside, and the journey would 
then be even agreeable. All, however, that they could get from 
me was to go with horses one hundred miles farther, and then take 
rein-deer. Their excellent and clean yourtes, the hospitality of the 
people, the productions of the country, the quantity of partridges, 
ducks, geese, plovers, and fine beef presented to me, the richness 
of the cream, and above all, the romantic scenery, which abounds, 
and the happiness which reigns in the valley of Omekon, might 
indeed have proved strong allurements with me to pass my life 
with them, but held not out sufficient charms to induce me to 
avoid a difficult journey. The weather was now very fine, but 
the nights and mornings were still cold. The princes continued 
to accompany me through their magnificent retirement, which is 
near five hundred miles from any other establishment, Okotsk and 
Bolouktak being the nearest. I had a long conversation with the 
Prince about Yasack, a tribute peculiar to Siberia. He said that 
the quantity was nothing, but that the mode of collecting it was a 
serious evil. The tribute they would freely give to the Emperor^ 
but it was what the commissaries took from them by force, and 



228 OMEKON. 

which they gave to avoid vexatious and litigious treatment, that 
was oppressive: and these commissaries have great power. 

Whether Yasack is or is not an impolitic tax, remains to be 
proved; and whether a direct tax upon certain articles consumed 
by the Yakuti, and all aborigines, would not yield a greater reve- 
nue, may be doubted: at all events, the present system is liable 
to the greatest injustice and robbery. I have no doubt that each 
commissary receives from the district he governs, more furs for 
himself than for the Emperor. The Prince was not a little sur- 
prised when I told him, that, comparatively, he paid little taxes, 
and that other countries paid more. Among many taxes, I told 
him, that in England he cold not shoot wild ducks without per- 
mission, and even if he did shoot them in his own garden, he 
must not take them up to eat. Finding him incredulous, I then 
told him that he could not have more than a certain number of 
windows to his house without paying a tax. These two samples 
sufficed to make him perfectly satisfied with his government, till I 
informed him, on the other hand, that no person in England could 
be compelled to carry government or private goods without being 
paid his own price. Every thing, however, which I told him to 
prove the evident superiority of England, as to the personal liberty 
of the subject, failed to weaken his natural preference of wander- 
ing over his native soil, to the visiting of strange lands. Thus we 
rode along the picturesque valley for twenty miles, when we cros- 
sed numerous lakes which were not as yet melted. They are 
surrounded by opulent Yakuti establishments during the summer 
season, for the fish which abounds in them. 

We next crossed the mountains, and entered upon another fine 
pas ure country, watered by the Torrourack; and halted at the last 
yourte in the government of Yakutsk. It was a miserable place, 
although the kindness of its inhabitants procured me a quantity of 
game. In its vicinity I passed through a herd of rein-deer, at- 



OMEKON. 



229 



tended by the wandering Tongousi I was in search of. Their 
chief was, however, forty miles distant, whither I repaired the 
next day, along a wide expanding valley, opening to the south-east, 
and reached at sunset the encampment of prince Shoumeeloff. 
Having previously sent a herald in advance, I was received by 
him, with his sword by his side, his medals suspended from the 
neck, and dressed in a rich suit of black velveteen, and a cocked 
hat. I could not help laughing at the groleseque appearance of 
the prince, while 1 pitied him, and despised the means which had 
been used to divest so ignorant a man of his property, by the lure 
of honours of this kind. I do not by these words mean to intimate, 
that the necessity for such distinctions does not exist; but I do say, 
that the purposes for which they are conferred on an ignorant 
savage, are of the most despicable naure. This man, prince 
Shoumeeloff, was formerly a rich Tongousian; now he is a poor 
one: he had as many thousands of rein-deer, as he has now hun- 
dreds. But his free presents, added to extortions and exactions, 
for the chance of forced, although useless services, have so reduc- 
ed his property, thai he is obliged to eat fish, which is considered 
by the rein-deer Tongousi as a hardship; and to send out his peo- 
ple to maintain themselves in the woods, with their bows and ar- 
rows. Powder is too dear, or not to be had, but by a present to 
the chief of more than its equivalent; he having the power to deny 
it altogether. Shoumeeloff now dreads going to Okotsk, even in 
search of moss for his rein-deer, preferring, as he says, to live a 
real Tongousian wanderer, than a servile tributary to chiefs, com- 
missaries, and other officers, although he glories in paying what is 
just. 

I found him an obliging sort of man, although too free a use of 
liquor had made him at times a quarrelsome one. We took a pipe 
and a glass of vodka together, and, as he spoke the Russian lan- 
guage, we descanted upon the means he had of accommodating 



230 OMEKON. 

me with rein-deer, as far as Okotsk. He said, what was true, 
that he had only just left the vicinity of that place, in search of 
northern pastures, and that although he might possibly be able to 
reach Okotsk, he would still lose the benefit of the pasturage; as 
by the time he could return winter would have commenced. I felt 
the force of his reasoning, but the service was his in point of law, 
as the season for employing or compelling horses, had not yet com- 
menced; and therefore over a fresh glass of vodka, which had 
been given to me, on the Omekon, by a retired Cossack, he con- 
sented to take me. 

In the neighbourhood there are eighty-seven of his tribe under 
his command, over whom he holds considerable power, as I have 
frequently witnessed; but they are in general a hard working peo- 
ple. I was amused with their manner of catching rein-deer, as it 
reminded me of the hunting of wild bullocks I had seen in Mexi- 
co; with this difference only, that there the man rides a horse fully 
trained, and here a rein-deer. They use a long line, which is 
coiled up in their hands, as sailors handle a log line, and gallop- 
ing past the intended victim, they throw the noose at the end of 
the line, over the horns. In America it is more dangerous, and 
the horseman is obliged to seek safety in flight, unless he can run 
the bullock into a thick enclosure, where he becomes entangled 
by the length of the line. 

Next day I paid the prince a formal visit at his principal tent. 
He received me again in his gala dress, presented me with tea> 
tobacco, and toasted rein-deer meat, and lastly with the marrow 
of the fore legs, — the last I esteemed most. He had purposely 
killed a rein-deer for me and sent me half; I of course presented 
him with some tobacco and powder, and upon the demand of his 
wife, with a bottle of spirits, in return for which she gave me two 
red foxes. 

On the third day we departed with fifty head of rein-deer; his 



OMEKON. 231 

whole herd consisting of about two thousand: fifteen were put at 
my disposal, while the rest were retained for his own consumption 
and emergencies. The prince said, that as none of his people 
knew the summer mountain route, he would accompany me. I 
took this as a good omen of his kindness to me, and his desire to 
forward me on my way; the result will, however, prove how far I 
was mistaken. At ten miles we halted in a pleasant valley in a 
violent snow storm. The Tongousi were not long before they 
pitched their tent, but I preferred the open pure air, with all the 
annoyance of the snow, to the harbour of such a close place, and 
with such a filthy sel: I will, however, do the prince the justice 
to say, that he begged I would take refuge in his tent, enlarging 
upon its comforts, &c. We continued our route thirty miles the 
next day; the first half along the valley, and the other over the 
hills leading to the river Torrourack, which we had crossed be- 
fore. The third day the laden rein-deer began to lag and droop; 
the snow was very deep, and the nasten, or the melted and re- 
frozen snow, was not sufficient to bear the animals. A rein-deer 
cannot carry above one hundred pounds upon his back, but with 
that and good roads they may be able to go thirty and forty miles: 
otherwise six or seven miles a day is the average. We shot a few 
partridges, for the Tongousi in general have guns, and secured 
one wild rein-deer, which last was equally divided between his 
party and mine. The wild rein-deer are generally considered as 
of those who formerly belonged to them, but had strayed away- 
By some little trickery they are decoyed into their camps; but 
wild and tame rein-deer have a natural aversion to one another. 

The fourth and fifth days we made but little progress, the 
weather was bad, and the rein-deer dropping off, for we had al- 
ready lost four by fatigue. The Prince grew angry, and threaten- 
ing either to leave me or carry me back, to which, as on the one 
hand I felt no way inclined to submit, I was careful on the other 



232 OMEKON. 

not to compel him, by provoking or abusive conduct, well know- 
ing the character of the Tongousi. We reached an elevated pass 
in the mountains, which leads to the vicinity of Idgiga, but were 
unable to cross it, owing to the state of the snow. The sixth day 
we renewed the attempt upon the passage, but were again com- 
pelled to give up, three laden rein-deer being dead, and the rest 
so weak as to be unable to convey the carcasses or the baggage. 
The former was a sad loss to the poor man, but I could only pity 
him. We remained for three days to recruit the rein-deer, and 
then determined again to make for the Omekon, and attempt the 
long passage with horses. The reasons which influenced us to 
turn back, appeared to me sufficiently strong; and as the Prince 
complained that he had not force sufficient to take my baggage, I 
was obliged to destroy the greater part. The moment Mr. Shou- 
meeloff saw what I was about, he remonstrated upon the crime; 
asking, why I did not give the things to him, as he could take them 
away for himself, although he would not for me. I said I would 
make him a present of nearly all the baggage I had, if he would 
show me the way to Okotsk, by the 20th of May. He declined, 
and I persisted in burning my clothing and bedding, for I felt con- 
vinced he had been duping me, compelling me as he thought, to 
forsake my baggage, that he might reap the benefit. Finding I 
was not to be dissuaded, he brought forward the image of the vir- 
gin and the saint he was named after, saying that 1 must be a he- 
retic and no priest of any country — he spit, swore, stamped, and 
crossed himself like a madman. I merely laughed at him, and 
although I should have had a laborious task to retrace my steps 
alone to the Omekon, I was determined to complete the desolation, 
by burning every thing I had which he would not carry, and which 
was not actually necessary to the season of the year. At length 
he told me it had been previously arranged, that I should return 
to the Omekon; and there in fact I re-arrived on the eighteenth 



OMEKON. 233 

day, crossing the Torrourack and Boulabot rivers with much diffi- 
culty. The country over which I had lately wandered was barren, 
but presented some fine scenery— numerous lakes are seen, and 
the wood is thick and tall. It is a favourite resort of the Tongousi, 
where they get fine moss for the deer, good fishing, and plenty of 
squirrels and foxes. 

Upon leaving the Prince ShoumeelofT, I purchased a fine rein- 
deer of him for the last of my tobacco which I had bought at the 
Omekon. The deer might weigh about one hundred and fifty 
pounds, which I thought a sufficient quantity of meat to enable me 
to reach Okotsk. The Tongousian again wished to steal a march 
upon me, insisting that he had not sold me the skin but the meat. 
As I had no bed I was not disposed to be so easily outwitted, and 
therefore replied, that I was not obliged to kill ihe rein-deer until 
I thought proper, but that when I did he should have the skin. 
Poor Shoumeeloff felt much annoyed at being thus matched, espe- 
cially as the knife was ready to sacrifice the poor animal, from 
which I however desisted to secure myself a bed. 

Fresh horses having been procured for me I left for ever the 
Omekon; receiving from my old friend Gotossop a quarter of a 
young bullock, and a dead horse for the use of the Yakuti: besides 
a pood and a half, or sixty pounds, of rye flour, and at least ten 
poods, or four hundred pounds, of butter and sour milk. The first 
day we halted at ten miles on the banks of the Koudousou, at pre- 
sent a large and rapid river full of floating ice, which rendered the 
passage of it on ihe following day highly dangerous, though we had 
a small canoe, which served to tow a horse over each time: as it 
was, the poor animal suffered much. On reaching the other side 
my medical skill was called into requisition. I had got the credit 
of curing asthma, palsy, sore eyes, and the like, and as this was 
done gratis, I got many patients. Had I possessed a medical book 
I might probaby have done some good. 



I 

2B4 OMEKON. 

From the Koudousou the country was quite overflowed for twenty 
miles, exhibiting numerous habitations perfectly insulated; indeed 
many of the people do ply about in canoes, keeping them for this 
case of emergency. My next route was on the right bank of the 
Kourounaksouta, which like the other rivers in this valley unite 
with the Omekon. In the evening I had prepared for my supper 
what is termed salamatt, a mixture which I found very palatable. 
It is rye flour boiled in butter, and reduced in thickness, when 
boiling, to a substance like burgoo or hasty pudding, not unlike 
what I had eaten when going down the Volga. The two follow- 
ing days we got on very well, making near sixty miles over low 
marshy swamps; a brace of ducks were shot, and we passed the 
evening comfortably. 

Having recrossed the Koudousou we reached the Konkuy, also 
uniting with the Omekon, where a chain of mountains commence, 
running to the south east and south-west. Our horses began now 
to suffer, as the pastures are better suited for rein-deer than horses. 
There are hence, from the Konkuy, two roads to Okotsk, one by 
the west, the other by the east bank of the Okota: the former re- 
quires seven, the latter ten days to reach, without casualties. The 
former is over a level but continual swamp, the latter over high 
and rugged stony mountains. I preferred the former, though with 
the chance of being detained from the rapidity of the river or the 
quantity of loose ice, being willing to assist the poor Yakuti, as 
the mountain route affords only bad pasture and a worse road. 

We made thirty miles along a valley bounded by high peaked 
mountains, in a romantic spot, and near a rapid of the Koudousou, 
which makes much noise. I observed a neat tomb with a cross 
over it to the memory of a Lainut or Tongousian prince, who had 
died here a few years ago, while wandering with his rein-deer. 

We were now much annoyed with a considerable fall of rain, 
and passed a bad night in consequence. Next day there was every 



OMEKON. 235 

appearance of the rain continuing, and I reduced the allowance of 
meat one-half. A hurricane coming on we were obliged to halt, 
and were most unpleasantly off in our wet leather clothes. As 
soon as possible however, we resumed our journey along an ele- 
vated valley where the snow was soft and dangerously deep, pre- 
senting nothing for a fire, or for the support of the horses, nor a 
shrub of any description to be seen. I have scarcely ever seen a 
place where the horses could not by scraping with their feet reach 
the earth in search of food; here however the thing was impossible, 
from the depth of the snow; and indeed the poor animals seemed 
to know it, as they would not waste their strength in the attempt. 
The Yakuti put on long faces at the obstructions we met with, 
never having witnessed such deep and difficult roads, for, in ordi- 
nary times good pasturage is to be had in this part of the valley. 

The horses having to contend with such difficulties, our journey 
was continued on foot. My snow-shoes I gave up to one of the 
guides, in consideration of his being very heavy, while, for myself, 
with a quick motion, my weight was not sufficient to permit my 
sinking in the snow; in case I had, the guide with snow-shoes was 
near to render me assistance. We were now frequently compelled 
to wander about on the borders of precipices, and directing our 
route by the shade or appearance of the snow; habit having accus- 
tomed me as well as the people of the country, to a pretty accurate 
calculation whether or not the snow would bear me. I have even 
seen the horses refuse to proceed, their sagacity in that case being 
equal to man's: nor will the leading dog of a narte, if he is good, 
run the vehicle into a track where there is deep snow or water. 

The third terrible day brought us to a solitary tree from which 
many horse hair offerings were suspended. Having overcome this 
abominable route, no less than sixty miles, in the evening we reach- 
ed a fertile spot, and halted on the banks of a lake from which, it 
is said, the rivers Okota and Koudousou, running in counter-diree* 



236 - THE OKOTA. 

tions, have their source; a circumstance which recalled to my re- 
collection those words in an able work by Mr. Barrow upon rivers, 
wherein it is said that " although it is not a physical impossibility 
that two rivers should flow in opposite, or indeed in any direction 
out of the same lake, yet the contrary approaches so near to an 
axiom in geography, that no instance is perhaps known of such an 
occurrence." 

We had now only one day's meat left, but were fortunate in 
shooting a couple of partridges which the guides brought me. 
We had still some rye flour, and butter, and with that hoped to 
cross the river without any subsequent difficulty. At four in the 
morning we had 13° of frost by Reaumur, and at noon 73° of 
heat of Fahrenheit After forty miles of severe travelling we at 
length reached the river, which was to close this terrible journey, 
which was full of shoals and rapids, and may be declared use- 
less. The islands in it abound with birches, larches, and alders, 
as also with the poplar, and a few pines. There is an abundance 
of wild berries of a fine flavour; and the pastures are exceedingly 
rich. The scenery was, also, in many places, highly beautiful; 
and the river afforded a novel spectacle, being confined by the 
most beautiful natural quays of crystal ice, while the river actually 
roared from the velocity of its current. 

As we continued our melancholy route we fell in with two white 
bears bound to the north, but fear, probably on either side, kept 
us apart. Still along the Okota, we reached twenty-five miles, 
the horses enjoyed very fine pastures, but our provisions entirely 
at an end. The rains had again overtaken us and were rapidly 
swelling the rivers. Of the last of the rein-deer, the flesh was so 
far gone that I could not eat it: the Yakuti however, are so fond 
of putrid meat, termed in England game^ for indeed it was no- 
thing else, that they finished it, regretting only that it was so little 
in quantity. The second day without food, and in a torrent of 



THE OKOTA. 237 

rain, we made near fifty miles, the horses swimming and wading 
through thirty or forty little rapid streams. These are formed by 
the rains and the melting of the snow from the eastern range of 
elevated mountains: they subside and dry up about the month 
of September. We lost one horse, which was carried by the 
stream into the Okota. 

At length by great labour we reached the fording place at the 
Okota. It was, however, impossible to attempt it, the guides ob- 
serving, that the horses might pass the river, but not loaded. We 
therefore halted, and next morning found a place where there 
was a canoe on the opposite bank. Thereupon unloading the 
horses, we turned them into the river, and they all reached the 
opposite bank in safety. The question then was how to get the 
canoe over; I was the only person who could swim, but the water 
was still so cold that I felt no preference to that mode. Necessity 
at last compelled me, and having procured a short stout piece of 
drift wood, which was very buoyant, I crossed at a narrow part of 
the stream, with a leather thong fast to my waist. The rapidity 
of the stream carried me down above a hundred yards, but the 
Yakuti, keeping, by a sort of run, in a parallel line, were ready 
to haul me back, if necessary. I however reached in safety; 
and, instantly throwing off my clothes, took violent exercise. The 
breadth of the swimming part might only have been fifteen or 
twenty yards, and across the strength of the stream possibly not 
more than four or five yards; yet I barely accomplished it. The 
feat was thankfully acknowledged by the astonished Yakuti, when 
I returned with an excellent canoe. 

Lord Byron swam the Hellespont, and John Cochrane the 
Okota. Of the two feats, mine was surely the most difficult; his 
lordship was neither fatigued, hungry, nor cold, nor compelled to 
his undertaking; while I had each and all of those evils to con- 
tend with. 



238 THE ARKA AND OKOTA. 

By perseverance we reached twenty miles farther, halting at 
one of the fishermen's summer villages. I broke open all the 
cellars in search of fish, but was not so fortunate as to find any. 

The evening proving fine, we aired and dried our clothes in 
lieu of supper, and next day, over a rugged, but well wooded 
country, walked and rode twenty miles, encamping upon the left 
bank of the Modon; one solitary partridge being the day's food for 
four people. The Okota here becomes formidable from the waters 
of the Nater and Modon, which enter it from opposite points. The 
former river inconvenienced us much, being obliged to ford it three 
times in the short space of seven miles, and with no inconsidera- 
ble risk. After the passage of the Nater we ascended an elevated 
and rugged mountain, from whence we enjoyed a fine view of the 
surrouuding country, and descending entered upon a swampy over- 
flooded country, covered with fallen trees, which impeded our pro- 
gress terribly. A desolated forest was our companion for many 
miles; here and there we found a few berries, especially of the 
moroshka (rubris chamaemorus), a yellow berry about the size of 
a strawberry; there were also some bilberries. We halted on an 
island where the remains of a post-house are to be seen. It rain- 
ed during the night, and we had some heavy thunder, a sound be- 
come unusual to me. 

The next day, about one mile farther, we reached the junction 
of the Arka and Okota, but they had swollen so much from the 
rains, that we were again detained. I therefore went in search 
of game with our Yakut's gun, but unhappily the powder, which 
had been kept in a rag, was so wet as to be entirely useless; we 
had, therefore, nothing but patience left independent of four fat 
horses, which my finances would not allow me to sacrifice. The 
poor Yakuti would willingly have allowed it, but I could not think 
of permitting them, upon my account, to suffer so great a loss, and 
therefore determined to let them act as for their own welfare. 



THE OKOTA. 239 

knowing, as I did, that none of their nation would deem it neces- 
sary to kill a good horse till his owner had been nine clays with- 
out animal food. 

The number of islands in the river increased to an astonishing 
degree the velocity of the stream in the channel, which brings 
down with it immense masses of ice and trees; and even had I 
been possessed of a canoe, or had the river been more tranquil, it 
appeared impossible for the horses to ascend the quays on the op- 
posite bank, which run into the river in a shelving manner eight 
or ten feet out of the water. Now and then a mass of ice, or a 
tree would strike the quay, and fearing away the shelving part, 
would leave a perpendicular spot of some yards. I walked along 
the banks of the river in search of a place to cross, but in vain; 
we therefore began to fell timber, to be employed in the formation 
of a raft, if necessary. More rain came in the evening and we 
passed an unpleasant night, anxiously watching the rise or fall of 
the river. We had eaten nothing for two days, and only a few 
berries on the two preceding these. Upon the noon of the follow- 
ing day I had completed the raft, and as I felt extremely hungry, 
determined to attempt the passage of the river with one Yakut 
and the Cossack. The other Yakut I left with the horses, as he 
could not possibly perish for want of food, and appeared only anx- 
ious for the necessity which should compel him to knock one of 
the animals upon the head, that is that the nine days should expire. 
To starve on one side of the river, be drowned in it, or die upon 
the other side, appeared alike to me; and I accordingly embarked 
our little baggage upon the raft, composed of ten logs of trees about 
fifteen feet long, crossed by five others, and again crossed by two 
more, to form a seat for the person taking charge of the baggage, 
which was lashed to the raft. The spars were lashed together by 
leather thongs, and two or three leather bags were cut up to in- 
crease their length. Each spar was also connected to the one on 



240 THE 0K0TA. 

each side of it by three grummets formed out of the green branches 
of the trees on the banks of the river; and the raft appeared to 
me strong enough to resist a severe concussion. We also provi- 
ded ourselves with drift spars formed into oars, to serve to steer, 
and assist in gaining the shore should an accident happen. My 
papers and journals were fastened round my body, and I took my 
station in the bow, in order that I might avoid danger, and keep 
in the centre of the river. 

It was with difficulty we moved our vessel into the main chan- 
nel, from the number of eddies; but having once reached it, we 
descended in a most astonishing manner, sometimes actually mak- 
ing the head giddy as we passed the branches of trees, rocks, or 
islands. No accident happening, and the river widening, I began 
to congratulate my companions on the probability of breakfasting 
the next day in Okotsk, but as yet I had not got upon the proper 
side of the stream, the islands and shoals perpetually turning us 
off. The Cossack and Yakut continued in a state of alarm, not 
entirely without cause, for upon rounding a point of land, we ob- 
served a large tree, jutting into the river, with a tremendous and 
rapid surf running over it, the branches of the tree preventing 
the raft from passing over the body of it, which was so deep in 
the water as to preclude a hope of escaping with life, at least im- 
possible to avoid being wrecked. The Cossack and Yakut cros- 
sed themselves, while I was quietly awaiting the result in the bow. 
We struck, and such was the force of the rebound that I was in 
hopes we should have been thrown outside the shaft in the subse- 
quent approach. I was, however, disappointed, for the fore part 
of the raft was actually sucked under the tree, and the after part 
rose so high out of the water that it completely turned over, bring- 
ing the baggage under water; the whole then, with the Yakut and 
Cossack, proceeded down the stream, and fortunately brought up 
upon an island about one hundred yards below. In the mean 



THE OKOTA. Ml 

while my situation was dangerous; being in the bow, I could not 
bold on the raft as my companions had been able to do, for fear 
of being jammed in between the raft and the tree. I therefore 
emitted my hold, and with infinite difficulty, clung to the outer 
branches on the rapid side of the tree; my body was sucked under, 
and no part of me was out of the water but my head and arms* 
I could not long remain in such a state; and making, therefore, 
^ne vigorous effort, on the success of which it was clear my life 
■depended, I gained the top of the tree. I was throwing off my 
upper park, when the branch gave way, and I dropped down, 
half drowning, to the island. It was a fortunate circumstance 
that the raft upset, as otherwise it could not have brought up at 
the island; which it did in consequence of the baggage lathed to> 
the raft being so deep in the water. 

Our situation, notwithstanding, upon the island was by no 
means pleasant. On either side of us was a rapid channel, and I 
was as far as ever from accomplishing the object I had in view; 
which was that of getting upon the right bank of the river: for 
then I might expect to reach some habitation, there being none 
upon the left bank nearer than six hundred miles, half-way to* 
Idgiga. My first care was to change my wet clothes, and warni 
myself by exercise; the next was to unlash and land the baggage, 
and to save as much of the raft as possible, our deliverance de- 
pending upon it. By hard work we accomplished it ere the sun 
had set; after which it soon began to be very cold. The appear- 
ance of the night was unfavourable, as it foreboded rain: it would 
therefore have been highly indiscreet to remain longer than neces- 
sary, as the river might, in one night, so increase as to cover the 
island. 

To launch a raft into the channel I could not attempt, as by 
that time it would be dark, and we should certainly meet with 
the same accident, and probably worse results. I therefore walk- 
Hh 



242 THE OKOTA. 

ed towards the end of the island, till I came opposite to a large: 
tree which had fallen from the continent nearly half-way across 
the narrowest part of the channel, which might be about fifty or 
sixty feet. To swim through the central part of it was impossible; 
but it appeared to me probable, with the help of nautical ingenu- 
ity, to save not only ourselves, but also the baggage; and this I 
accomplished in a true sailor-like fashion. 

The baggage and spars were first removed from the place of 
wreck to that we purposed departing from. These spars were, as 
I have said, about fifteen feet long; a length which would not 
more than one-third reach to the tree, allowing a proportion to be 
within the beach. I therefore placed the heaviest baggage in the 
water, consisting of four bags lashed together, to which I lashed 
the inner ends of two of the stoutest spars, keeping a line fast to 
the outer ends, to prevent the strength of the stream from carry- 
ing them down. I should say, that the place where I sunk the 
baggage was past the parallel of the tree, to which I desired to get 
five or six feet, m order that the last of the studding sail booms 
which I should rig out, might come on the rapid side of the tree, 
and thus form a bridge. I then carried out two more spars, and 
lashed their centres to the outer ends of the two first spars, while 
the inner ends were lashed to the centre of the two inner spars: 
the second two spars had also a guy fastened to their outer ends, 
as a support. 1 had now reached within eight or nine feet of the 
tree, a space including the most rapid part of the stream. I ac- 
cordingly sent one more spar, dropping it between the others in 
such a manner that it should fall tides way of, and two or three 
feet beyond, the nearest part of the tree. Of course it required 
no guy, and but one inner lashing, as it could not get adrift or fall 
to eeward, unless the tree gave way. My reason for sending one 
spar at last was to prevent, as much as possible, an extra surf; 
for as it was, I had great difficulty in reaching the tree. The 



THE OKOTA. 



243 



Cossack followed in safety: but of course I could not expect the 
Yakut to attempt it; the bare idea was death to him. I therefore 
returned; and making anothor long line out of leather strips, from 
two bags, I flung it over to the Cossack, keeping one end fast to 
the Island. My bridge thus appeared: 




A 



A 



A A, A A, the Continents; B the Tree; C C C the Lashings; 
D the Island. 

To enable me to ferry over my Yakut, the baggage, and lastly 
myself, I converted the bridge into a raft, which had a line fast to 
it from each side of the river, the Cossack hauling it to his side, 
and I back again. When it came to my turn, I had not the ad- 
vantage of a check line, for there was no place to make it fast to. 
The consequence was, in rounding the tree the raft upset, and I 
got a severe ducking. I held on, however, and was pulled ashore 
in such a state, from the effects of the cold, that my clothes be- 
came like a firm casing of ice. Notwithstanding I could not but 



844 



NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE OKOTA, 



be thankful for two such escapes; the last of which, I suppose, oc- 
curred at ten o'clock at night. 

We immediately had recourse to flint and steel, to produce fire^, 
which was soon found to be impossible, as the tinder was all wet. 
A forest of fine trees, most of them in a fit state to burn, inspirited 
us, and my Yakut soon produced fire by friction. From the danger 
of perishing by cold, I was now hurried into that of being consum- 
ed by fire. The height of the grass, and the dryness of the wood 
all around was such, that the whole forest was enveloped in flame, 
<md we were obliged to work hard to prevent its being fatal to us. 

This immense fire raging round us had the effect of inducing 
the other guide to swim the horses across the river to our relief, 
either supposing we were there, or that other assistance to himself 
was at hand The distance we had arrived by the winding of the 
liver was fifteen or sixteen miles; but in a direct line to the junc- 
tion of the Arka and Okota not more than three miles; so that the 
fire was readily distinguished by the Yakut I had left with the 
horses. I therefore felt delighted with his good conduct in having 
■so well divined our situation; and the night was passed in drying 
our clothes, and preparing to resume the journey the following 
day. The appearance of the raft, upon tbe second trip, was thuss 

A C y> A 




AA the Continent; B the Tree; C the Cossack; D the Island; 
E the Raft. 



OKOTSK. 245 

The third day without food had now passed; and the fifth, with 
only a few berries to keep our spirits up, had arrived, when, on 
the dawn of the sixth (18th June), we again took to the horses, 
forded the Roonar; and passing over a mountainous and sterile 
country, for near forty miles, arrived at the habitation of a Yakut 
Prince called Gregory Grosmoff, upon an island in the Okota. My 
host was neither civil nor hospitable; but by a sort of force I got 
some horse-meat from him, and which I considered, at that time, 
a great delicacy, added to some bread which I procured from the 
sailors and carpenters employed in felling timber for the dock-yard 
of Okotsk. 

Fresh horses were given to me at this station, and I proceeded 
on to Okotsk. The route lay through some fine park-like scenery, 
and then over a thick sandy forest of tall pine trees; the weather 
was most unfavourable, as it rained hard. I reached the eastern 
sea-coast and was compelled to halt at a miserable hut, affording 
scarcely a shelter from the elements. The following morning, to 
assist the Yakuti, who begged of me to leave their horses in the 
pasture, I paddled along the stream to the old town of Okotsk; and 
calling on the Police Master, was by him in the government boat, 
carried over, with all formality and respect due to my rank, to the 
abode of the Chief of Okotsk, Vladimir Ushinsky, than whom I 
have never found a better man, or one who possesses more real 
goodness of heart, under the most severe and forbidding counte- 
nance. 

I was provided with quarters at the abode of the Police Master, 
whose brother had that day been drowned in floating a raft down 
the Okota, not far from where I was wrecked. I waited upon the 
Chief of Okotsk, as soon as I could put on a clean dress afforded 
me through the kindness of a Mr. Gardner, a Bostonian, settled 
in Okotsk as an agent or retail trader. The Chief felt much sur- 
prised at my haggard and miserable appearance. My face was 



24G 0K0TSK. 

completely frosted, and bore the effects of exposure to the wind 
in no ordinary degree. My long red beard, longer red locks, and 
almost frightful aspect, now suggested to me the propriety of 
shaving myself, as well as of getting my hair cut, neither of which 
I had permitted for fifteen months. To this measure, however, I 
did not consent, till I had determined, in consequence of the in- 
formation I received, and the general circumstances attending my 
situation, to return to Europe. I did, however, shave in the 
forenoon, and had my hair also cut; and, receiving as a present a 
surtout and pair of blue trowsers, I became once more a genteel 
dressed man. 



247 



CHAPTER IX. 

Seasons for determining to return to Europe — Description of Okotsk— * 
Observations on the Navigation of the Amoor — Kurile lslandte — St. Peter 
and St. Paul's — Captains VasiliefT's and Kotzebue's Expeditions. 

The circumstances which induced me to determine upon a re'-* 
turn to Europe, previously visiting Kamtchatka, I will beg to 
lay before my readers, in the words of part of a letter I addressed 
to the same purport, to the Governor-General of Siberia. It is as 
follows: 

"Okotsk, JulyS, 1821." 
•■* MOST EXCELLENT SIR, 

"From the river Kolyma I had last the honour of addressing 
your Excellency; since when I have come over a large tract of 
desolate country, nearly two thousand miles, with great labour and 
sosae peril. The difficulties I have had to contend with surpass 
every thing of the kind I have before seen, and required every 
exertion of mine to conquer; which I did not do under seventy- 
five days of hard labour. My route lay along the Kolyma, Zvzan- 
ka, Indigirka, Omekon, and Okota; all of which are, at this season 
of the year, large, rapid, dangerous, and almost impassable rivers 
Besides these, there are numerous other streams, as well as lofty 
mountains of frozen snow, large overflowed marshes, crowded an 
decayed forests, and half frozen lakes, which present themselves 
in every part of this journey: suffering at the same time cold, rain^ 
hunger and fatigue, with forty-five nights' exposure to the snow; 



248 REASONS FOR DETERMINING 

at times without fire in a frost of thirty degrees; and latterly five 
days being passed without food; never having seen an individual 
during four hundred miles, and but one habitation in the extent of 
one thousand: being frequently bewildered and lost in the snow 
mountains; — all these circumstances tend to weary and dispirit a 
traveller upon a like journey, and render him incapable of address- 
ing your Excellency in a proper style. But I am unwilling to 
allow a post to escape, without communicating my past and future 
movements. 

" I was induced to undertake the late journey, in order that I 
might reach Okotsk in time to proceed to America or Kamtchatka, 
as circumstances should render most desirable or necessary: other- 
wise the proper route from the Kolyma to Okotsk is via Yakutsk, 
the route of the Omekon having been discontinued thirty years, in 
consequence of the difficulties and perils which ever attend it. 

" I waited upon the chief of Okotsk, who received me with dis- 
tinguished hospitality and friendship, and who informed me that 
there was no vessel of any description lying in the port bound to 
America; and, although two vessels were expected to arrive in the 
course of the summer, it was by no means certain or probable that 
either of them would return to the opposite continent during the 
same season. Such being the case, the Chief of Okotsk, agreea- 
ble to a request I hiade, has consented to my embarking in the 
Imperial transport, bound to Kamtchatka: there I purpose passing 
the remainder of the summer in travelling about the Peninsula, 
and propose to return to this place by way of Idgiga, during the 
early part of the winter, and thence to Europe, where I hope to 
arrive in the fall of the ensuing year, passing through such places 
sn Siberia as I could not visit upon my outward journey. 

" The circumstances which have arisen since my last letter to 
your Excellency, are such as to render useless my proceeding to 
America, even if a conveyance offered: but, as no opportunity 



T0 RETURN TO EUROPE. 249 

does exist, I must remain a long time in Okotsk if I persist in my 
plan. Thus I hope that your Excellency and the Imperial Go- 
vernment will not feel displeased with me, in consideration of the 
reasons I have given, for retracing my steps, in preference to pro- 
ceeding beyond the peninsula of Kamtchatka. 

" Your Excellency is well aware that the object I had in view, 
when I undertook this long and painful journey, was first to ascer- 
tain the situation of Shelatskoi Noss, then to cross from Asia to 
America, at Behring's Straits, and trace the latter continent as far 
as possible to the north-east. 

" The first problem is entirely solved by the fortunate issue of 
Baron Wrangel's expedition. The north-east boundary of Asia 
being thus established beyond all doubt, I could no longer have 
any reason for remaining in the vicinity of the Kolyma, which 
place I accordingly quitted the moment the fair held with the 
Tschuktchi, upon the. Anniuy, was finished. 

" My original desire or intention of proceeding to America is 
now become as delicate as was my situation on the Kolyma, as 
there is a naval expedition there also, having the same object in 
view that I have. I can not be allowed to act with them for the 
reasons before assigned: I will not act against them, and, there- 
fore, I cannot act at all. It would be madness and presumption 
in me, to attempt a task of the kind while an expedition is there. 
I cannot get to Behring's Straits but with their assistance, or that 
of the Tchuktchi, and thus I cannot get there at all, and can only 
wish for a successful termination of Captain Vassilieff's exertions- 
Should that officer withdraw entirely, I will hereafter undertake 
the same journey, and may possibly do that by good fortune 
which even more zeal and talents cannot execute. 

" Had I known when in Europe of the expeditions on the Ko- 
lyma and in Behring's Straits, I do not think I should have taken 
"this route to employ and improve myself. I shall, however, re- 
Ii 



250 OKOTSK. 

member my journey with gratitude, pleasure, and pride. I con* 
fess to your Excellency that I do not see the necessity for continu- 
ing my journey merely for the sake of consistency. I am not 
afraid of the task, and I am as happy in a wild desert as in a proud 
capital: but I conceive I can better employ myself, more improve 
myself, and possibly do better altogether. I have much io see and 
learn during the ensuing fifteen months which I shall pass in Si- 
beria, and, therefore, I hope I am about to adopt that line of con- 
duct which, under all the circumstances of the case, appears most 
proper, however much I regret the necessity of retracing my steps. 
I have the honour to be," &c. 

Such were the ideas suggested to me, and such was the conduct 
I felt it necessary to adopt, in consequence of the conversation I 
had with the chief of Okotsk, and the head of the American Com- 
pany, who told me that he had no idea of any vessels offering this 
year for the opposite continent. No other vessel could offer, as 
the ports of Okotsk and Kamtchatka had become shut to all stran- 
gers since I had left St. Petersburg, thus compelling me to adopt 
the most proper line of conduct, as will hereafter appear, upon 
my arrival at Kamtchatka. I will, therefore, abstain from touch- 
ing any more upon that point until I reach the Peninsula and con- 
tent myself with viewing the wonders of Okotsk. 

Okotsk is situated in the north-cast part of a bay formed by the 
rivers Okota and Kouktui, and is approaching to more respect and 
consideration than it ever did before, owing, I believe, principally 
to the active and honest exertions of the present chief. The town 
was formerly situated on a low sandy beach close to the sea-side. 
Its exposure and inconvenience were never pointed out till by the 
late chief, now commanding at Yakutsk, who was in consequence 
ordered to transfer the town from the old to the new site, which 
is on the left bank of the Okota, as the old one was on the right. 
The order for the removal has been issued several years, yet little 



OKOTSK. 251 

was done till lately: even at present, the new site contains but 
the government buildings, and those belonging to a few of the Cos- 
sacks and sailors. The more considerable part, which are erect- 
ing by the American Company will, it is said, be transferred 
hither in the ensuing winter. The plan upon which the town is 
building is good,, and when finished, will be, after Barnaoule, the 
neatest place in Siberia, although upon a small scale, for there are 
not more than fifteen or sixteen hundred people in it. The coun- 
try round Okotsk is highly productive in fine timber, in conse- 
quence of which a dock-yard has been made, and some fine vessels' 
have been built, to enable the government to transport provisions- 
to Idgiga and Kamtchatka. 

The chief of Okotsk is generally a captain of the navy of the 
second rank, and subject only to the orders of the Governor-gene- 
ral of Siberia, although the governor of Irkutsk has some power- 
in civil cases. At present, the establishment consists of three cap- 
tains and four lieutenants, with corresponding officers of all classes 
and nearly six hundred seamen and artificers; the allowance for 
maintaining and paying whom is less than two thousand pounds 
per ann. independent of their bread, which is about eight thousand 
bushels. The people are employed in building vessels and store- 
houses, in rigging and sailing the former, and filling the latter with 
Hour and stores. The receiving and sending away of flour is a se- 
rious and laborious duty, and open to much abuse and pilfering. Be- 
sides these works, there is a salt concern under the charge of an of- 
ficer who commands the convicts, at present ninety in number, the 
maintenance of whom, including provisions, clothing, and pocket- 
money, is about a thousand pounds per annum. These extraordi- 
nary expenses are occasioned by the allowance of double rations, 
in consideration of their hard work. The allowance to a convict 
is as follows: — Eighty pounds of rye flour for each man per month j 
one hundred and twenty pounds of the same flour, for each mail 



252 OKOTSK. 

who has a wife, and forty pounds in addition for each child, male 
or female. Each man is also allowed ten pounds of oatmeal, or 
rice, and twenty pounds of butter per month. They are also al- 
lowed two complete suits of clothing, and about twenty shillings 
per annum in money. Such an allowance of provisions is com- 
mendable and liberal, indeed it is so great that the poor wretches 
are enabled to sell one half of the bread for the purchase of tea, 
sugar, and meat; and of the latter, there is not so much necessity, 
when the superabundant quantity of fish is taken into considera- 
tion, which is so great that I believe from twelve to fifteen hun- 
dred dogs are fed with it during the greater part of the year. 

The quantity of salt made by the convicts is about two thousand 
five hundred poods, or one thousand six hundred bushels, which is 
sold alike to rich and poor, at the rate of three shillings a bushel, 
equal to two hundred and fifty pounds for sixteen hundred bushels; 
so that the salt, although a necessary, is a losing establishment of 
seventy-five per cent. The liberality and consideration of the 
Emperor upon this head cannot, therefore, but be duly appre- 
ciated. 

There are at Okotsk fifty Cossacks, whose allowance of flour is 
thirty poods or one thousand two hundred pounds weight per an- 
num, and oatmeal and butter in proportion. The children have 
half that allowance, and widows and orphans are considered as 
entitled to the same, thus bringing the establishment of Okotsk 
to about two hundred and fifty thousand roubles, or ten thousand 
pounds per annum. To meet this, the yasack, or tribute paid by 
Yakuti and Tongousi is two thousand eight hundred and twenty- 
eight roubles, or less than one hundred and twenty pounds, and 
the duties upon imported goods amounted^ in three years, to less 
than seven hundred pounds. These are the only sources of reve- 
nue to Okotsk, if I except that arising from the American Compa- 
ny, who are supposed to pay a tenth of their imports to the Crown 



OKOTSK. 253 

at St. Petersburg, as also a tenth of the furs imported from Kamt- 
chatka, neither of which payments take place, I believe, in so 
correct a manner as they should. 

Of the expenses of building and fitting out a transport brig of 
one hundred and sixty to one hundred and eighty tons, I have the 
account, which states it at less than two thousand pounds; the 
building was one half the value of the stores: and their transport 
from Irkutsk the other half. Upon the whole, however, the ves- 
sels are eminently strong, and worth the money. The art of ship- 
building has considerably improved, if I may judge from the dif- 
ferent samples lying in Okotsk; three brigs have been built within 
the last three years, which ought to last at least twenty years. 

Such are the official returns of Okotsk. Of the state of society 
little can be said, no merchants residing in it, and the chief being 
the only married man belonging to the navy, and but three or four, 
who have wives, that belong to the civil service; in short, there is 
very little society, and less education, although a school has been 
established by the present chief, which may hereafter do well, if 
the existing discipline be kept up. There are seventy-six boys in 
it, who cost nothing either to the empire or their families, being 
supported on the, so called, economy money, i. e. the money saved 
from the sums allowed by government for the maintenance of the 
equipage, which savings the present governor, much to his honour 
and credit, employs for the education and other benefit of the 
children. 

Much credit is also due to the exertions of Captain Ushinsky> 
in having redressed many of the grievances under which the 
aborigines laboured, as well as the abuses in the public depart- 
ments. Formerly, when an officer wanted money, he had only to 
go to the dock-yard, and take such things from it as he could sell 
to raise it: and so recently has this abuse been exercised, that an 
officer, high in rank, did, even in the last year, take articles to a 



254 OKOTSK. 

considerable amount from one of the store-houses, not in a shy or 
shamefaced manner, but openly, as an act justified by habit and 
long usuage, and not at all questionable. I can see no reason why 
such conduct should be practised here, as all officers receive double 
pay and extra provisions, besides being always considered as regu- 
lar traders; indeed it has, since my return from Siberia, been sanc- 
tioned by authority, that officers in certain departments or situa- 
tions may trade. The consequences will be most fatal to the poor 
aborigines. 

The abuses under which this persecuted race have existed I 
shall forbear to mention. I will, however, give two samples of 
the manner in which an avaricious chief may make his fortune. 

A Yakut applied to the orderly Cossack of the present chief, 
who spoke the language of the Yakuti, stating that he wished to 
speak to the chief in private. The poor fellow was admitted, 
when he beckoned the interpreter to withdraw. This, however, 
was impossible, as the man, who kept his hand in his breast, could 
not speak a word of Russian. The chief demanded what he 
wanted; still he declined answering in the presence of the Cos- 
sack. At last, after many entreaties, he pulled out a paper from 
his bosom, and gave it to the chief, at the same time kissing his 
knees; and observing that he was a poor man and had never been 
to Okotsk before. The paper was opened and found to contain a 
hundred roubles, nearly five pounds. The chief demanded the 
purpose of the money; and by reasoning with and threatening the 
poor fellow, he at last got out the truth, which was, — that an old 
custom of the Yakuti had been established, in order to enable the 
chief of Okotsk to live well and support bis station, that every Ya- 
kut should pay upon his first entry into Okotsk, a sort of poll tax to 
the chief; and that he, the Yakut, in common with the rest had 
now only to continue the custom, and to express his regret that he 
was so poor a man, as not to be able to do more. I need not say 



'OKOTSK. 256 

the money was returned, the man made to understand that such 
practices were abolished, and a message sent to the princes of the 
Yakuti, to say that should such conduct be again attempted with 
the present chief, a severe punishment would be inflicted upon the 
party offending. When the number of Yakuti, who annually go 
to Okotsk, are considered as not falling short of three or four thou- 
sand, it may be very readily guessed what the average receipts of 
a chief were, and might still be, upon the score of privilege and 
extortion. 

I will mention one instance more of the prevalence of corrup- 
tion in this part .of thj,e world, and to the truth of which I can my- 
self testify. A decent dressed woman called upon the present 
chief of Okotsk, with a petition, that her husband should have his 
fetters taken off, and be allowed a total respite from the public 
services, in consequence of his age and infirmities. Upon enquiry, 
her husband proved to be a convict, and still more, one of the very 
worst. The woman was desired to call again, and was then told 
that the chief was sorry that the conduct of her husband was such, 
as prevented the chief's considering it necessary that he should be 
excused from the public works; and that his health, his age, and 
circumstances were such, that no extra consideration of his case 
was necessary, and therefore he must continue to work in his fet- 
ters. The woman then put a letter into the hand of the chief, 
which, on opening was found to contain bank notes to the amount 
of three hundred roubles, a sum equal to fifteen pounds. This 
was her last resort, the money was returned, the former opinion 
was confirmed, and the chief for having done his duty and for hav- 
ing honourably refused the bribe was denounced as the most ar- 
bitrary and tyrannical, in so much that a parallel was drawn be- 
tween his conduct and that of his predecessors, by whom it seems 
such things we practised. 

These are, in no way extraordinary cases, nor are they by any 



256 OKOtSK. 

means the most grievous. Those arising from the oppressive acts 
of the commissaries or tax-gatherers, are the worst. I feel confi- 
dent that no real redress can be granted until the yasack is done 
away with entirely; and this step 1 hope and believe will, ere long, 
be taken. The sacrifice would be small; it might even be done 
with great advantage to the empire, and to the increase of popula- 
tion, as weli as of the revenue: but I have done, and am really 
tired of being under the necessity of telling such true tales. 

During the latter part of my stay at Okotsk, two vessels arrived 
there from America, one of which was very valuable, worth seventy 
thousand pounds, the other about thirty thousand. They were 
brigs, and loaded with sea-otters, beavers, sea-cats, martins, river- 
otters, and various other less valuable skins. The vessels appear- 
ed well manned, and tolerably managed, which is more than I 
can believe is the case, with the government transports; but as I 
am going in one, and shall have a fair opportunity of judging, I will, 
for the present, abstain from further remark. I remained in Okotsk 
a considerable time, about three months, and felt highly gratified 
with the attentions shown to me by the chief, his amiable lady., 
and the officers. Every thing that could tend to my comfort was 
done for me. I did not, however, receive from the American 
Company's representatives those attentions to which my situation 
might seem to entitle me, in consequence, I believe, of what had 
taken place at St. Petersburg. One circumstance in particular 
occurred to me, which was calculated to lower them and the con- 
cern in my estimation. One of their brigs was to be examined, — • 
visited for the purpose of ascertaining if the provisions were good, 
if the people were satisfied, and if the furniture of the vessel, in 
spare sails, &c, was, as is directed by law. The Chief and officers 
were invited. This was at a feast given by the Chief, at which I 
was present, and, where he was requested to bring me with him: 
I even heard the invitation, but I naturally considered that if they 



OKOTSK. 257 

really wished me to partake of the dejeunS to be given on board, 
they could as well have invited me upon the spot, as desire a 
second person to bring me. The day the survey was to take place, 
all the individuals expected repaired to the scene of action, except 
myself; a boat was despatched after me, but I declined the invita- 
tion in toto, conscious as I was that something existed which, pro- 
bably, in obedience to directions, I ought not to see, and knowing 
as they must that T would expose, if I discovered it. I neither 
have nor had any hostility towards the American Company; on 
the contrary I say, that I think their establishment in Okotsk is 
upon the most liberal scale, probably too liberal, and that there 
are fewer faults in the concern in Okotsk, than in any other of 
theirs that I have seen. 

The prices of provisions and labour will conclude these remarks 
upon Okotsk. Bread is twelve roubles a pood, and meat from 
four to five roubles the same quantity, that is, bread is sold by 
government at nine shillings for thirty-six pounds, while meat is 
four shillings and sixpence for the same quantity. Fish, from its 
abundance, is not vended. Tobacco, cottons, and earthenware, 
cutlery, and such articles as a poor people can want are not exor- 
bitant, while a common working man can earn four, five, and six 
shillings a day, which is, however, sure to be spent at the kabak, 
or grog shop. Wine of an infamous quality, the worst of spirits, 
and a sort of provincial naleefka, and fructovka (a spirit of the 
flavour of cherry-brandy) are most exorbitantly dear. Those who 
have industry, strength, or talent, cannot fail of making their situa- 
tions comfortable in Okotsk, if they be so disposed. The place is 
generally considered healthy, yet for invalids there is a good hos- 
pital, with plenty of attendants. The gardens produce some 
vegetables, but of an inferior growth; mushrooms are most abun- 
dant, and very fine. In other respects the government of Okotsk 
can only be termed an immense dreary waste, extending from the 
Kk 



258 OKOTSK. 

river Uda to Idgiga and Anadyr, and (he whole population is less 
than four thousand souls. In spite of the attentions and hospi- 
tality heaped upon me by the inhabitants of Okotsk, I could not 
regret my departure. It has such a sameness — so little to be seen 
— so little to interest; and what was worse than all, so much scan- 
dal circulating there, that every thing done in Irkutsk and St. Pe- 
tersburg, was sure to be known in Okotsk, 

It was on the twenty-fourth of August that I embarked on board 
the Imperial Transport Brig, Michael, to proceed to Kamtchatka. 
She was commanded by a lieutenant of the navy, and had on 
board thirty-two people besides passengers; I mention the number, 
because it is considered in this part of the world that such a num- 
ber falls far short of what is necessary to work a vessel in a case 
of emergency. 

Our destination was St. Peter and St. Paul's in Kamtchatka, 
and we cast off our lashings about noon, and were soon in the cen- 
tre of the tremendous tidesway, which makes in and out of Okotsk 
every six hours. In attempting to cross the bar she struck, and 
as the vessel was rather late, the ebb-tide having made, of course 
she continued to strike, and in fact beat so hard, that it was ne- 
cessary to get down the lower yards and topmasts, and even to 
prepare to discharge the cargo. Every exertion, but in vain, was 
made in the two following tides to get her off from the bank which 
received Captain Billings's vessel, the Good Intent — she was left 
so truly dry at low water, that I walked on shore to communicate 
with the chief. 

Upon the afternoon of the twenty-sixth, by main force we hove 
the brig into deep water upon the rising of the tide, and as no 
damage had been apparently done to the vessel, of course resumed 
the voyage. We may be considered as fortunate; the surf is at 
times so terrific as to prevent the possibility not only of a boat, 
but of any vessel outriding it many minutes. The shallowness of 



OKOTSK. 259 

the water a long way off from the entrance of the harbour, the 
rapidity of the tides, and the cross-settiDg of them at the harbour's 
mouth, preclude the possibility of Okotsk becoming an easily ac- 
cessible port, except for a small merchant vessel. Necessity alone, 
resulting from the loss of the Amoor, can induce the Russian Go- 
vernment to keep it, at such an expense and under such circum- 
stances. If the Amoor had not been sacrificed through the bad 
generalship of the Count, whose name I do not recollect, or the 
superior duplicity of the Chinese, all the productions of the Pacific 
might have entered, and ascended that river nearly to the fortress 
of Kiakta: but with the present state of the limitation of the Chi- 
nese and Russian Empires, the produce of the Pacific is necessa- 
rily sent to Okotsk, as there is no other eligible place. 

The produce arriving at Okotsk has to choose betwixt the dan- 
gers of a bad roadsted, and of a very difficult port. From Okotsk 
to Irkutsk and Kiakta, are near three thousand miles of the most 
difficult and dangerous land-carriage in the world, a journey which 
cannot be accomplished during the season in which the vessels 
generally arrive at Okotsk; consequently one year's interest of the 
money is sunk, besides the exposure of the goods to the ignorance 
and negligence of warehouse keepers, and the dampness of the 
atmosphere. 

The only period in which the port of Okotsk can be approached 
or departed from, is between the months of July and October, or 
only four months. The general period for vessels arriving is the 
latter part of July or beginning of August, too late in the season to 
admit of their cargoes being forwarded to Yakutsk in time to take 
the winter-road and reach the fair of Kiakta during the same season, 
as the fair commences in February. Were the American Com- 
pany to despatch their vessels from the Continent of America, in 
the month of May, they would always arrive at Okotsk before the 
1st July; their cargoes might be transported to Yakutsk by the end 



260 ST. PETER AND ST. PAULAS. 

of August, at a cheap rate by means of the return horses, and then 
to Irkutsk by water, previous to the winter setting in, and so be 
ready for disposal at Kiakta in January. The furs would arrive 
in a better state, and of course fetch a better price. What incal- 
culable advantages would result to the American Company and to 
merchants in general, to say nothing of its convenience to the 
government, from the employ of steam-engines upon the rivers 
Lena, Angara, Selenga, and Baikal Lake? What country in the 
world has such advantages for the employment of steam as Siberia: 
and what a relief would it not give to the aborigines in saving them 
at least fifty thousand horses every year, which are now, through 
fatigue, cold, hunger, and being overladen, left to perish? 

The value of the Amoor is, however, so generally known, and 
its loss so sensibly felt, that it were needless to point out the 
benefits which would arise from the purchase of it; all that surprises 
me is, that the Russians have not attempted to open a treaty even 
for the privilege of navigating the river: then the direct trade be- 
tween Irkutsk and Kamtchatka, Japan and the Pacific in general 
would be astonishing, while now it is at best contemptible. 

To return to the voyage, which occupied us fourteen days, with 
mild and favourable weather and but little fog. On the seven- 
teenth day we passed the Kurile Islands in safety, and on the 
tenth made the Avatcha Peak. Strong north winds and a still 
stronger and perpetual south east current, together with the want 
of practical knowledge in the commanders of vessels in this part of 
the world, retarded our progress, so that we did not anchor until 
the fifteenth day, when I was received under the roof of the amia- 
ble and hospitable chief, Captain Rikord; the gentleman, as will 
be remembered, who rescued Captain Golovnin from the hands of 
the Japanese. I arrived in time to partake of the feast, given in 
honour of the Saint after whom the lady of the chief is named. It 



ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL'S. 261 

was attended by all the youth, beauty, and fashion of the town of 
St. Peter and St. Paul's. 

During our passage across the sea, little of interest was excited. 
I had occasion during calm weather to witness the struggles of 
the whale, and listen to its groans when attacked by the kasatki, 
a species of sword fish. I had also an opportunity of establishing 
the latitude of Povorotnoi Noss, and which is correctly laid down 
in the old chart of Admiral Saretcheff's, while the more modern 
one of Admiral Kruzenstern is incorrect by nineteen miles. The 
longitude of Nishney Kolymsk, of Okotsk and of the island of Eon, 
have however 3° of error in the former Admiral's chart ; this may 
probably have proceeded from inadvertency and not from error of 
calculation, as Captain Billings used English books to calculate 
by, while Saretcheflf must have used French. The former only 
understood his own English, and of course used the meridian of 
London; the latter most likely used the meridian of Paris, as he 
did not understand English. I mention this circumstance of ex- 
culpation, because the errors are known to exist. In passing the 
Kurile Islands, the general line of them appeared to be well laid 
down, with the exception of the second and fourth islands, which, 
with Cape Lopatka, should be placed farther to the east, to bring 
them upon a north-east line with the islands to the southward of 
them; or, the southern islands should be placed more to the west- 
ward to bring them upon a south-east line from Cape Lopatka, 
for that is their exact direction, although the charts lay them down 
otherwise. I had no other means than half a dozen compasses, of 
ascertaining where the fault lies. The islands and peninsula 
are elevated, bold and very accessible; passages may be run for 
during the night in spite of the fogs, and there is no danger any 
where but in the Lopatka channel, where a strong south-east cur- 
rent always sets. The average temperature of the atmosphere was 
15° of heat. 



262 ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL'S. 

In St. Peter and St. Paul's, I found the Russian expedition 
under the orders of Captain Vassilieff, who had returned from a 
fruitless attempt to get round the American Continent. They 
rounded Icy Cape about thirty miles beyond Capt. Cook, although 
they fell short of him on the Asiatic side by two degrees. Little 
increase of knowledge will be gained to the world by this expedi- 
tion; the most valuable is the having ascertained that a strong cur- 
rent runs round Icy Cape to the north-east and east, so strong, that 
it was with great difficulty that Caplaim Vassilieff could get back 
his fast sailing sloop! She certainly was not provided with the 
means, nor was she a fit vessel for wintering on the American 
coast, separated from her consort, a large transport of six hundred 
tons. What would Captain Parry have given for such a fair cur* 
rent? Had the state of Captain Vassilieff 's ship permitted his run- 
ning for the accomplishment of the voyage in general, he certainly 
had the fairest opportunity that ever man had, for the result of 
Captain Parry's first voyage was known at Kamtchatka, as a cor- 
rect chart of that voyage, and the situation of Melville Island, had 
been forwarded, and had actually reached there a few days after 
Captain Vassilieff arrived. Little or no doubt can exist that he 
could have reached Melville Island; that there was an open sea to 
the east, and a current of three knots per hour, I have reason to 
know. Unfortunately, however, the expedition was not in a fit 
state to make the attempt again; but what may be done by Cap- 
tain Kotzebue, time alone will show, although I am free to think 
that the passage by Behring's Straits is the best. 

Should Captain Kotzebue be determined to attempt the passage 
round Icy Cape, he will, no doubt, find a place for wintering; or 
lie may winter in the sound called after, and re-discovered by him, 
for it has been known to the Russians more than one hundred years. 
The winter may, be employed to great advantage, as there are na- 
tives in the vicinity, with dogs and rein-deer; and I should think, 



ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL'S. 263 

that with proper caution, and people qualified for the task, the 
coast as far as M'Kenzie's river might be surveyed in one winter. 
Dogs to assist could also be procured at Kamtchatka. 

I found also in St. Peter and St. Paul's a brig under Portuguese 
colours, as well as one from the Sandwich Islands. The former 
brought a cargo of flour from Macao, the other a cargo of salt as a 
present to the Emperor, from the sable majesty of those islands, 
and in return received as a present, such things as seemed most 
desirable; among others-, some animals, with a view of propagating 
the breed; though it may be doubted whether the propagation of 
bears will be beneficial or acceptable. The Sandwich brig was 
a fine American vessel, officered by three Englishmen, and entirely 
manned by natives. The conduct of the Executive here towards 
the Sandwichers was flattering; and it is not a little singular that 
the first voyage undertaken by them should be to Kamtchatka. 
What with the expedition, transports and foreigners, this place had 
at one time, so many as eight vessels in it; — the largest number 
she ever counted before. 

It may readily be believed that I felt great pleasure in meeting 
with three Englishmen, independent of three on board of the Sand- 
wich vessel, in such a distant part of the world. One was the 
Russian Consul-general to the Pacific Ocean, residing in Manilla, 
whither he had returned after escaping the dreadful massacre in 
that place. I found him, during the long stay I had in Kamtchatka, 
a polite, hospitable, and finished gentleman, a sincere friend, and 
in short a real Irishman. A second was a plain good honest Bos- 
tonian, encumbered with six children and a wife, else a man who 
ought to return to his native land, where his circumstances aie 
good: I experienced much civility and kindness from him. The 
last was, a Cockney, who had been exiled from Moscow for for- 
gery; and, although he had been flogged, knouted, &c. was still 
well received in every house. I know aot how such things are 



264 ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL'S. 

managed in this country, but no doubt can exist that in Siberia, 
and probably in Botany Bay, the convicts are well received, that 
is, if their situation in life was formerly respectable. For my own 
part, I could only pity him, and rejoice that the punishment inflict- 
ed was so merciful; had he been a Russian the case would have 
been different. 

Time rolled away in the agreeable society of the Chief and his 
amiable lady, together with the very fine young men who compos- 
ed the officers belonging to the expedition and to the port. 1 felt 
anxious to get away from the perpetual course of balls, routes, din- 
ners and masquerades, as also from the net into which I felt my- 
self drawn. But, however much the Chief felt inclined to grant 
me the means of departing, it was impossible until the expedition 
had quitted the bay: only one post could be sent, and that I desir- 
ed to accompany. Two months passed in this manner before the 
expedition departed, when I was left to the free enjoyment of a 
passion which was crowned with the reward of marriage; — so 
much then for my travellership. However, I had no alternative, 
and the day that Captain Vassilieff left the harbour of St. Peter 
and St. Paul's I put the question. My airy phantoms, my bold 
desires, and my eccentric turn being thus dissipated by one woman, 
I prepared to make a tour of the peninsula, before I led my in- 
tended bride to the altar. 



365 



CHAPTER IX. 

Departure from St. Peter and St. Paul's — Avatcha — Koraki — Nachiekin— - 
Apachinsk — Bolcheretzk — Utka Ostrog — Kolpakofskoi — Tchinsk — Kava- 
ranskoi — Napanas — Tygil — Sedanka — Yelofka — Xarchina — Kamenoy Os- 
trog — Kamakee — Nishney Kamtchatsk — Cloochee — Krestrova Ostrog— 
JKozerofsky — Massurah — Kirgannick — Milkovah — Verchney Kamtchatka 
— Schegatchick — Sherom — Pushcheen — Ganal — Malka — Return to St.Pe* 
ter and St. Paul's. 

All being prepared for me, I quitted the port of St. Peter and St. 
Paul's accompanied by seventeen nartes, driven by the officers and 
principal inhabitants, and for two miles by the ladies, one of them 
at parting imprinting upon me a kiss, 

Speaking silence, dumb confession, 

Passion's birth, and infant's play, 
Dove-like fondness, chaste concession, 

Glowing dawn of brighter day ! 

It was not long before I reached Avatcha, where I found all the 
officers awaiting me, with tea and other refreshments. The dis- 
tance we had come is eight miles, along the beach, and over some 
little hillocks covered with some stunted birch* At eight in the 
evening of the 20th November, O. S. I proceeded upon my jour- 
ney with a Cossack and four nartes; not that such a number were 
necessary to stow away my baggage, for it would not even fill the 
portmanteau of Sterne's Sentimental Traveller, although my pam* 
LI 



266 NACHIEKIN. 

taloons were of leather, while his were of silk, and consequently 
more easy to be stowed away. 

From Avatcha the path lies along the river of its own name, 
which impeded our progress, and was otherwise unpleasant to me, 
in wetting me a good deal. The scenery was very dull, and I 
was so absorbed in contemplation that I could hardly see the right 
side of any thing. At midnight I reached the Ostrog of Koraki, 
forty miles from the port, where are a few fishing hamlets in tole- 
rable condition. At one of them I fell in with an old shipmate 
who had come in the same transport from Okotsk. He had de- 
parted from the port three days before me, but a too frequent use 
of brandy had induced the Kamtchatdales to deny him dogs, in 
hopes of getting a proportion of it. 

The Cossack did not arrive at the halting place until eight in 
the morning, and then in such a state as to render him a fit com* 
panion for my old shipmate. By noon, however, I got away and 
proceeded towards Nachiekin thirty miles. The country was so 
deep in snow that it was midnight before we arrived. We passed 
numerous half-frozen streams, the dogs suffering a good deal, and 
whenever I walked to relieve them, I was sure of having my feet 
severely wetted. At Nachiekin I had to combat with a drunken 
postillion, bad dogs, a saucy Toion, and my old friend, who much 
annoyed me. Patience was my only resource for some hours, af- 
ter which, on a beautiful frosty moon-light morning, I resumed the 
journey over a picturesque and mountainous country, well wooded 
and watered. Late at night we reached a small place called Apa- 
chinsk, forty-five miles. Ere we arrived we had to cross the river 
called Bolshaya in a canoe, the river not being frozen, a circum- 
stance at this time of the year very rarely known. Thirty miles 
farther we reached the ancient capital of Kamtchatka, Bolcheretzk, 
now a small village containing fourteen dwellings, one hundred 
and sixteen inhabitants, and about thirty balagans, i. e. sheds for 



BOLCHERETZK. 267 

drying fish. The path to it was over a flat level along the river. 
I was myself the driver towards the abode of my now father-in- 
Jaw, whose homely manners, numerous, healthy, smiling children, 
and hearty breakfast, made ample amends for the fatigues of the 
last two days. 

Bolcheretzk stands on the river of its own name, about fifteen 
miles from the sea of Okotsk, and has little to boast of at present 
but the affectionate remembrance the inhabitants bear to the me- 
mory of Major Behm, so highly spoken of by Capt. King. I heard 
also, strange stories of the celebrated Benjofsky, who made his es- 
cape hence to Canton, having previously murdered some people 
and fomented an insurrection. I heard nothing in his favour, al- 
though an old lady, afterwards my aunt, was a companion of his. 
I found Bolcheretzk to be inhabited by a civil people, all Rus- 
sians: but were it otherwise it might be expected I should speak 
highly of it, as the first place where my wife saw the light 
of day. 

I could not fail of being a welcome guest at such a place, 
where neither tobacco, tea, nor spirits had been tasted for the last 
three months by any individual. Of course I left a small quantity 
of each article with my friends, making them, as it were, roll in 
luxuries, in return for which I received several sables and foxes 
as presents. The state of the river was such as to prevent my 
proceeding upon my journey in less than two days, which period 
I passed very happily, wandering over the extensive site of this 
ancient place; it is said to have formerly contained to the number 
of five hundred inhabitants, which have been reduced partly by 
the removal of the seat of government, and partly by disease. 

Canoes being provided, I resumed my journey in a heavy fall 
of snow, and crossing three branches of the river entered upon a 
trackless maze of snow six and eight feet deep; so difficult to pass, 
that it was three o'clock the following morning before I reached 



26$ VOROFSKAYA RIVER. 

Utka Ostrog, having been twenty hours in going fifteen miles. 
The route was along the sea coast, having far to the right an ele= 
vated range of mountains, Three miserable dwellings in an ex- 
posed situation, but with fine meadow lands, and plenty of game 
and fish, are all it can boast of. The chief was absent, hunting, 
and as I could not procure fresh dogs, I remained six hours to 
rest those 1 had, and then proceeded upon my journey, reaching 
by midnight Kickchick, twenty miles, a place of equal wretched- 
ness with the last, and like it containing but fourteen or fifteen in- 
habitants, most of whom are disabled from work by disease. 
With the same dogs I reached Kolofsky Ostrog thirty miles along 
the sea coast, upon which a tremendous surf was roaring with a 
strong north-west wind. There are in the neighbourhood several 
fine lakes which never freeze, and produce trout and salmon peal 
of a fine flavour during the whole of the winter. Deer, moun- 
tain sheep, and game of every description that is found in the 
Peninsula abound in the mountains and forests, and fine meadow 
lands every where skirt the coast. 

I remained to take tea with the; old Toion, whom I found to be 
a (idler and a scholar, and departed for Vorofskoy Ostrog, forty 
miles. The mountains now approached nearer to the sea coast, 
and present some beautiful scenery. I put up at the abode of a 
wealthy Russian farmer, and felt highly gratified in observing a 
small but fat herd of cattle. This is considered a rich spot, yet it 
contains only nine dwellings with about forty inhabitants, not 
enough to keep up the chase. The place is prettily situated on 
the Vorofskaya river, about four miles from the sea. There is a 
snug harbour at the mouth of the river, where the transports from 
Okotsk formerly visited, and the river is navigable to the village, 
which retains the vestiges of a small fortress. The meadow 
lands about it are at once extensive and luxuriant. The inhabi- 
tants provided me with frozen fish, a delicacy I had so much en^ 



TCHINSK VILLAGE. 269 

joyed on the Kolyma, with ducks and rein-deer meat, as also with 
dogs to resume the journey, which carried me to Kolpakofskoi Os- 
trog, thirty miles along a dreary sea beach. The village contains 
six dwellings and twenty people, who furnished me with dogs to 
Kroutogorova thirty miles further, a beautiful situation near the 
extremity of the almost level plane reaching from hence to Bol- 
cheretzk. The famous Sopka, i. e. burning mountain, near 
Tchinsk, here becomes visible, and although the country is so 
rich, not a head of cattle is to be met with from Vorofskaya. 

To Tchinsk are thirty miles of superior country, yet so deep in 
snow that we were obliged to take it by turns to go ahead with 
snow shoes, at other times the government of a narte was thrown 
upon me, which I at first made but a bungling hand of. Tchinsk 
has twelve dwellings, it is consequently a considerable place! there 
are also two priests, brothers, whom I found drinking a decoction 
of dried herb instead of tea. I felt angry with the Toion who 
had let slip eight dogs intended for me, and declined entering his 
dwelling, the strongest mark of displeasure which can be shown 
to these simple people. The poor fellow felt the slight so severely 
as he saw me entering another yourte, that I could not help re- 
gretting the determination I had made. To Soposhna it is thirty- 
five miles, which I have travelled in company with the reverend 
pedlers, for every body here is a merchant. I made them happy 
by a pound of tea, a few pounds of tobacco, and a bottle of spi- 
rits. The road was very fine and the weather had much in- 
creased in cold, so much so, that the thermometer stood at 25°, 
which I had never before seen in Kamtchatka above 18°. Thence 
to Morososhna, thirty miles of a good road. The last named vil- 
lage may be termed large, containing eighteen dwellings and a 
hundred inhabitants, in the enjoyment of many luxuries, yet with- 
out cattle. Thence the road lay along the foot of the mountains, 
the scenery of which gives a relief to the eye as it is in general 



270 KOVRANSKOY OSTROG. 

uninteresting all the way to Bolcheretzk, except at a few places, 
Upon the road to Belagolofsk Ostrog, thirty-five miles, I got twice 
upset into the river without the means of drying or changing my 
clothes, and suffered much, in consequence, in my feet. I had a 
fine view of the magnificent Ichinskaya Sopka or mountain, 
which continued visible until 1 reached Khariuzova forty miles, 
the road to which is in general good, though there are some parts 
dangerous in the night time. The ice from the rapidity of the 
current frequently sunk under us, but from our velocity of move- 
ment no accident happened. 

At midnight I continued on for Kovranskoy Ostrog, twenty-two 
miles. There is here a law obliging the Toions to have a path 
made within twenty-four hours after every snow storm. Our chief 
had failed in his duty in this particular, and consequently was 
obliged to go before upon his snow shoes; and such was his dili- 
gence from fear of reprehension, that he not only arrived before 
me, but arrived in five hours, a very short time to accomplish such 
a journey upon snow-shoes. I found it the most miserable place 
I had seen for a long period, reminding me of Zashiversk in nor- 
thern Siberia. The brows of the hills are covered with brush 
wood, with little other appearance of nature. From hence to Us- 
kolofskoy Ostrog are thirty-five miles, which I was obliged to do 
by walking and alternately driving a narte, and cannot say which 
of the two is the most fatiguing. The diseases prevalent in the 
place prevented almost any assistance being rendered us. There 
are no cattle, yet fine meadow lands. Fish and game are abun- 
dant. At this place I met with another old shipmate in the person 
of the brandy contractor, who accompanied me to the next station, 
Napanas, a village with six dwellings and forty people. The road 
leading to it is considered dangerous, owing to a large toondra or 
swampy desert which must be crossed; the distance is forty miles. 
We passed the desert in a slight fall of snow, which had not been 



NAP AN AS. 2T1 

sufficient to obliterate the marks of the track, else we must have 
been compelled to halt whenever the snow overtook us. 1 did 
not arrive until two o'clock in the morning, having been previ- 
ously hurled down a snowy declivity of one hundred feet in depth: 
at the bottom of which, I, guide, dogs and narte all lay huddled 
together; however vexed I felt inclined to be, I could not help 
laughing. The guide could hardly have intended a performance 
of the kind, which might have caused serious consequences; it is 
true, he was a little in liquor, but that was my fault rather than 
his. 

The Velocity and facility with which we had descended the de- 
clivity, was more than equalled by the difficulty we had in ascend- 
ing from it. To drag me and the narte from the abyss, required 
all the dogs of the other vehicles, as well as the help of all the 
drivers, yet we succeeded at length; when upon replacing the bag- 
gage, my pocket-book, containing passports and other papers rela- 
tive to my journey, were missing; this, though perhaps an imagi- 
nary evil, would have been severely felt by me. For a long time we 
searched in vain, turning up the snow, and at last I gave them up 
for lost. Such a loss never did, nor probably ever will happen to 
any other person: the papers which formed its contents are not 
likely to be again granted. The poor guide was (he picture of 
despair, and vowed to do penance if he could only recover them, 
which at last was effected through the exertions of the brandy 
chief. We arrived thence all well, and fared heartily. Napanas 
contains eight dwellings and an excellent Toion, who induced the 
people under his command to show me the national dance. The 
poor fellows willingly obliged me, showing the improvements they 
have made upon the practice of bears, or rather, perhaps, on that 
of goats. The dance consists in a variety of distortions of fea- 
tures and limbs, all doubtless derived from the ridiculous and 
wanton customs of their ancestors. The dance of the Cossacks 



272 TYG1L HAVEN. 

is equally bad if not worse, yet I have seen it often practised in 
Yakuisk by females who should have known better. The woman, 
who is the principal performer, commences the dance with a 
handkerchief extended by the hands, somewhat like our own 
shawl dances; now used to hide her face from one, then from ano- 
ther, but always with the object of singling out him whom she 
most prefers as her partner. In a most unbecoming posture she 
approaches the favourite from the centre of the room; now droop- 
ing her head with a pensive air alternately upon each breast or 
shoulder, while her bands are employed in committing outrages 
upon decorum. The man, having taken hold of the handkerchief, 
joins the dance; the woman now reluctantly affecting to quit, ap- 
pears again as anxious to rejoin him; this sort of antic motion is 
continued, till at length the woman sinks as from fatigue upon her 
knees, and in the act of falling is dexterously recovered by the 
man; and thus the dance closes. The agility and imitative powers 
of these wild Asiatics are really surprising, and I make no doubt 
that were they to have an opportunity of seeing the modern im- 
provement in the art of dancing, as exhibited now-adays in vari> 
ous public theatres, they would be found capable of imitating not 
only bears and goats, but geese also. 

From Napanas I proceeded down the river of its own name to 
its junction with the Tygilsk, having previously sent the Cossack 
with the post, and my baggage straight on to the fortress. I reached 
the haven, where the brig Paul was laid up in the ice, with her 
lower rigging over the mast-head, I suppose to become frost bitten- 
She belongs to the government, and makes one voyage annually to 
Okotsk with bread, stores, &c. carrying back the furs which have 
been collected. A brig of one hundred and twenty tons is thus 
kept in commission to carry bread for a few people a distance of 
three hundred miles. Its commander, officers, and about twenty- 
five people paid and fed the whole year! 1 never knew a more 



TFGIL. 273 

shameful instance of inconsiderateness on the part of the officers 
of any place, in any country. This brig on an average is not 
more than fifteen days at sea in the course of the year, and ought, 
if proper exertions were made, and proper encouragement given, 
to supply Idgiga, Tygil, and Yamsk with provisions; instead of 
which each of these places keeps a similar vessel. Tolerably 
good barracks and store-houses have been built by the steersman, 
or commander, who has charge of the brig. The distance of the 
haven to the sea is ten miles, and below the fortress twenty, which 
last place I reached in time to dine with its commander, a lieu- 
tenant of the imperial navy, a young man who had held the situa- 
tion near five years, but who will now shortly leave it, that being 
the period allotted for his continuation in service. 

Tygil stands on the river of its own name, at thirty miles from 
the sea. The country round it has somewhat of the picturesque 
during the summer, but its situation in winter is exposed and 
dreary. A range of mountains from the NE to the SE defend it 
in some degree from the coldest winds, yet it is on the whole but 
a poor place. There are at present twenty-seven dwellings and 
two hundred and fifty inhabitants, and it is denominated a for- 
tress; formerly it may actually have been one, but at present will 
be best appreciated as to its strength by a reference to George's 
Travels in Siberia, who, speaking of fortresses orostrogs, the lat- 
ter word comprehending Siberian fortresses, says, " It would be 
dangerous to attempt storming them, for who ever wanted to mount 
the greatest and only bulwark, a wooden paling, would most pro- 
bably come to the ground with the whole structure about him." 
Such 1 am certain is the present state of Tygil, and which, with 
its half dozen Cossacks, can only be held in terrorem over the 
neighbouring Koriaks: the Kamtchatdales are not a people numeri- 
cally or physically strong enough to create a disturbance, 

The inhabitants of Tygil are all Russians, they have of late got 
M m 



214 TYGIL. 

a church and the walls of an hospital erected; when they are to be 
covered in I know not, though shortly I hope, for they are much 
wanted. The ravages of a certain disease at this place are indeed 
dreadful, and I should think ought to call forth the attention of 
the government so far as to induce them to export doctors to, and 
import priests from Kamtchatka. I mean no disrespect to those 
reverend gentleman, but just to hint, as my opinion, that instead 
of the soul only, it would be better to take care of the soul and 
body at the same time. The average number of people annually 
admitted to the hospital books is three hundred and fifty, nearly 
twice its whole population, who are chiefly employed in fishing and 
trading with the neighbouring Koriaks or Kamtchatdales. The 
place also serves to keep up the winter communication with Okotsk. 
For the Koriaks will not furnish rein-deer or dogs to carry the 
post, unless they are remunerated by a present of tobacco, spi- 
rits, &c. 

From what I have seen of the Koriaks, both in Tygil and in 
their encampments to the southward, I have no doubt of their being 
of the same tribe as the Tchuktchi; they have the same features, 
manners, and customs, and the same language — the same love of 
independence, and are, in truth, less scrupulous of giving offence 
to the Russians than their northern neighbours, for they frequently 
break out in hostility with the inhabitants of Tygil, unless a sup- 
ply of spirits and tobacco is sent to them, for which, however, 
they barter rein-deer and furs. 

The climate of Tygil is cold; already had the thermometer pass- 
ed 28° of Reaumur. The Cossacks however, contrive to raise a 
few vegetables, as potatoes, cabbages, turnips and radishes; but 
the two former never arrive at complete maturity, the one being 
waxy, and the other without a head. The famous antiscorbutic 
cheremsha, or wild garlic, abounds, as does a small but delicious 
reot, somewhat resembling a sweet polatoe, called, in the language 



THE RASOSHNA. 275 

of the country, kimtchiga. There is also an abundance of wild 
berries in the neighbourhood of Tygil, yet their chief support is 
fish and rein-deer, of both which I partook at the hospitable table 
of the commander of the fortress. At the expiration of four days 
I departed, having remained so long to recover my feet, which had 
been severely frost-bitten from wet. 

I was accompanied by the commander of the transport lying in 
the Haven: he was what is termed a good, though a droll fellow; 
and I was gratified with his society. Our route lay at first upon 
the Tygil, which from its source to near the town runs through an 
interesting country. At midnight we reached Sedanka, a small 
village, containing six dwellings. From thence to Bolcheretzk is 
called the Tygil coast, which, generally speaking, is low and fiat, 
the sea-coast being from thirty to forty miles from the mountains. 
The villages through which I had come were all of them upon the 
banks of some small streams, which, in most cases, rise in the 
mountains; but sometimes they emanate from the lakes, which 
are numerous. The rivers I do not apprehend to be more than 
the melting of snow and rain which descend from the eternally 
snow-clad peaks. The quantity of horned cattle upon the coast 
is so small as not to merit notice, although the pastures are exten- 
sive and fertile enough to feed millions. 

At Sedanka we procured dogs to enable us to cross the moun- 
tains to the next station, a distance of one hundred miles. Early 
in the morning we passed the camp of the Koriaks, and continued 
our route along the Sedanka river for forty miles, when we reach- 
ed the Rasoshna. We encamped for the night in the snow, the 
dogs round us, and then the fire; we passed on the whole, a 
pleasant night, although my feet were still in a bad state, owing 
probably to their late want of pedestrian exercise. The follow- 
ing day we crossed numerous elevated lakes, and then over moun- 
tains and a well wooded country. On our way we fell in with a 



276 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF 

caravan of eleven nartes from the town of Cliutchi bound to 
Tygil. We continued until we reached an elevated desert of ten 
miles long, which we crossed in a continual storm of wind and 
snow, called in this country purga; we halted in a miserable place, 
having come about thirty miles. I can hardly imagine how the 
poor dogs found their way, or how they managed to drag us along. 
There are times when these pur gas are so tremendous that moun- 
tains of snow are levelled, immense valleys filled, whirlpools form- 
ed of snow, not only stopping the further progress of the traveller, 
but absolutely buryiug him and his dogs: nothing can exceed the 
devastation, or be compared to it, but the effects of the wind on 
sandy deserts or mountains. I have known instances of people 
detained for twenty and thirty days in this tremendous pass, and 
it is seldom that it is crossed without a gale. And yet all this 
difficulty and danger might be obviated simply by the erection of 
crosses or mounts, as in the northern parts of Siberia, where I 
have seen in the distance of thirty or forty miles, a small mound 
of earth, with a white and black chequered cross place at every 
one hundred and fifty yards. 

The night was exceedingly cold, and the snow and wind pre- 
vented our even enjoying the luxury of a cup of tea, for no fire 
could be lighted. Crossing a second toundra, desert, of seven 
miles wide, with infinite labour to the dogs as well as ourselves, 
we entered upon a most magnificent country. Lofty, straight, 
and stout firs lined the right of the valley, while the dwarfish 
larch, and alder, mixed with birch, stood upon the left in all their 
bandied and crooked shapes. The contrast was extremely pleas- 
ing as we glided along the milky valleys at a rapid rate. Imme- 
diately upon clearing the desert the snow and wind ceased, and 
we hailed the return of fine cold weather. Not long after we 
overtook a caravan of nartes in great distress, having been detain- 
ed ten days in the mountains by the weather. The dogs had been 



YELOFKA. 27T 

without food for three days, and were evidently in the last stage. 
In the early part of the evening we reached the Yelofka river, 
which unites not far hence with the Kamtchaika, rttrtfei&g in a 
picturesque manner through the country. At seven we reaclue^ 
the ostrog of Yelofka, fortunate in having crossed the mountains 
so safely. 

Yelofka is a pleasant village of eight dwellings and forty-six 
people, the country round it is elevated and well wooded. We 
remained only a few hours to refresh ourselves, and then continued 
the journey along the river of its own name, the banks of which 
afford some beautiful scenery for about fifteen miles. We then 
came to a desert which we crossed in a purga, fortunately not very 
heavy. At forty miles w T e reached the village of Kliartchina of 
five dwellings and thirty inhabitants. I was welcomed to it by a 
respectable looking old man, a priest, son to the highly eulogized 
priest of Paratounka. The son perfectly well remembered Cap- 
tains Cook and Clerk; he having been at that time a young man, 
living with his father at the village of Paratounka. Several un- 
interesting anecdotes were related of them, as also of Perouse, in 
their rambles of shooting or chasing the wild animals. I had at 
Yakutsk been recalled to the remembrance of Captain Cook by a 
silver watch, which now belongs to Captain Mmitsky, of the 
Russian navy, and which, I think, is spoken of somewhere as 
having been given away by that great navigator to some individual 
merchant. He probably disposed of it, and thus at last it has 
fallen into the hands of the present holder, who, though I feel 
assured he appreciates it highly, yet would not retain it should re- 
lations, or others more nearly concerned, express a desire to be 
possessed of so valuable a memorial. 

From Kharchina the route lies over a large lake, and thence 
over a fine open country, abounding with some of the finest fir- 
trees I have ever seen, reaching to the height of sixty and eighty 



378 NISHNEY KAMTCHATSK. 

feet. At twenty miles we reached the osfrog of Kamennoy, on 
the right bank of the Kamtchatka, and, changing dogs, proceeded 
twelve miles farther to Kamakie over numerous lakes near the 
river. The country here abounds with red foxes, and is certainly 
one of the most picturesque parts of the Peninsula: the beautiful 
view of the Sopka, or Peak of Cliuchie, was hid in the clouds. 
I moved on towards Nishney Kamtchatsk, also an ancient capital 
in the Peninsula, a far more eligible place than the present site. 
The weather had now become very mild, no less than 3° of heat 
of Reaumur. We made good about seven miles of our journey 
through very deep snow by the ensuing morning. For three hours 
we did not move forward more than one mile, a heavy fall of snow 
had taken place, and it was found impossible to proceed, owing 
to the extraordinary heat of the weather. No track nor scent 
offered to the dogs, otherwise I would have persisted in the pro- 
secution of my journey. The drivers, however, with snow shoes 
actually sunk eighteen inches deep in the snow, and I was there- 
fore compelled to return. We soon regained the ostrog we had 
left, and there we passed the night, witnessing such a scene of riot 
and drunkenness as is quite beyond my pen to describe. My 
companion had parted with a few bottles of spirits unadulterated, 
which, when they had operated, induced him again to launch out 
adulterated spirits, receiving, of course, a sable for each bottle. I 
was thoroughly convinced from this circumstance that Kamtchatka 
should not be supplied with spirits. 

I was mortified at not visiting the town of Nishney Kamtchatsk, 
and its port, but may say that the former contains twenty-two 
dwellings, and one hundred and fifty inhabitants, and the latter an 
accessible port, but much feared for want of being frequented. 
Formerly, when the seat of government was held there, vessels 
annually went to St. Peter and St. Paul's for provisions, but this 
is now no longer the case. Timber abounds in such quantities 



CLIUCHIE. 279 

and of such a quality as should induce the government to fell and 
to export it to the present capital, where it is much wanted. I 
reached Cliuchie at midnight, having come over a few lakes and- 
a half frozen river. Cliuchie is a Russian peasants' village, con- 
taining one hundred and eighty inhabitants. It is pleasantly situat- 
ed upon the right bank of the Kamtchatka, at the foot of the eas- 
tern termination of the lofty peak which is not far from it. This 
peak is said to be the most elevated in the peninsula, being about 
fifteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. It has frequently 
emitted flames, lava, and dust, but its summit was not visible dur- 
ing my stay in this respectable village of Christians. After the 
grand«eruption which I had witnessed in the Island of St. Vin- 
cent's in 1812, I could feel no regret at not being able to see one 
in Kamtchatka. It is true that little or no mischief arises from 
the volcanoes of this Peninsula, and they may therefore be more 
innocently and placidly seen and contemplated. 

The amount of tribute paid by the peasants is about ten shil- 
lings, formerly it was twenty; being reduced one half at the time 
the Kamtchatdale yasack was reduced from two to one sable. 
The country is in every respect most luxuriant and beautiful, and 
were there a sufficiency of inhabitants, as well as of horned cattle, 
it would no doubt make one of the most desirable abodes in the 
world. Wood of the first growth, fish in a most abundant quan= 
tity, game of the finest flavour, and of various species, pastures in- 
consumable; a chase which yields foxes, sables, river-otters, bears, 
wolves, &c. of the finest specimens, are what Cliuchie has to boast, 
Vegetables are raised with greater facility than in any other part 
of the Peninsula. Wild berries are very abundant, and some little 
rye flour is produced, though not of so ripe a quality as to be of 
much use; such are, in short, the claims of Cliuchie, that it should 
undoubtedly be made the capital of the Peninsula, and I am only 
astonished it is not so, considering how well its central situation 



£80 KRESTOVA. 

is adapted for that purpose. A neat church has lately been erect- 
ed at the expense of the inhabitants, who are in general disliked 
by the chiefs and officers, owing to their resisting the payment of 
individual yasack, or presents. This is surely an enhancement of 
their character. 

I quitted the village of Cliuchie perfectly satisfied with the cha- 
racter and conduct of its inhabitants. They preserve a great te- 
naciousness of their rights, and detestation of the injustice shown 
to their neighbours, the aborigines. To prove this assertion, I need 
but mention that with these Cliuchie peasants, I was obliged to 
pay in money for the hire of the dogs which drew me; a circum- 
stance which had happened to me no where else, and therefore 
carries the most undoubted proof of exactions, extortions, and 
cruelty exercised upon the most innocent and inoffensive people in 
the world. My route lay from Cliuchie at first over some small 
lakes, and then along the banks of the Kamtchatka, which at this 
period of the year, 14th December, O.S. is but half frozen. At 
twenty-five miles I reached the ostrog called Krestova, having 
three yourtes and twenty-four inhabitants, nearly all of whom are 
confined by disease. I continued on with the same dogs to Oush- 
kielova, thirty miles farther, having four habitations and twenty 
individuals, most of whom also are debilitated: indeed it is extraor- 
dinary what havoc the introduction of the small-pox, and another 
distemper, made at the ostrogs on the banks of the Kamtchatka. 
Remarkably fine and extensive meadow lands, attend the traveller 
all the way from Cliuchie to Kozerofsky, as well as noble forests 
of timber; and there are seasons when cattle might maintain them- 
selves during the whole of the winter, the snow being then of no 
great depth; yet there are but few heads of these necessary ani- 
mals. The scenery to the southward along the banks of the river, 
is also of the most picturesque and sublime appearance. The 



STCHAPPINAT — MASSURA. 231 

magnificent peak soaring to the clouds has a fine effect when 
viewed from the bed of the river. 

Kozerofsky, forty miles beyond Ooshkielova, con!ain9 five dwel- 
lings and thirty-six people, and is pleasantly situated. I continu- 
ed along the river Kamtchatka for twelve miles, and then along 
that of the Tolbachinsk to an ostiog of the same name for thirty 
miles more. The latter part of the journey was through a crowd- 
ed forest, and a thick fog, which occasioned me some serious 
blows, as the dogs made their rapid progress; now and then start- 
ing at the scent of a fox or sable. Tolbachinsk is a pretty little 
village with thirty inhabitants, and appears to be on the improve- 
ment; the establishment is a new one and almost secluded from 
the world. Stchappinat was the next village I came to. It is 
upon the Kamtchatka, at a deep and narrow part of the river 
which was not yet frozen enough to bear the nartes. I crossed 
two other small rivers by bridges for that reason. The scenery 
was very beautiful, a lofty range of mountains lay to the east 
with a good deal of fine timber, while the flat country is one fine 
uninterrupted meadow, without a single cow to feed upon it. 
Stchappinat has seven dwellings and fifty-two inhabitants, and, it 
is said, the finest fish in the Peninsula, though but few are actually 
procured from it: they are considered so delicious that the inhabi- 
tants send them to the seat of government as presents to the chief 
and officers. The causes of their comparative scarcity are proba- 
bly the depth and rapidity of the river, as well as the smallness of 
the nets; for unless the river be actually swarming with fish, it. is 
seldom that the inhabitants can provide themselves with a suffi- 
cient supply. 

To Massura are forty miles of a well wooded country, and fine 
meadows upon the banks of the river. I almost flew the distance, 
being scarcely six hours in performing it. There are ten dwell- 
ings and sixty people, civil ftnd hospitable to a proverb; a consi- 
Nn 



282 VERCHNEV KAMTCHATSK. 

derable quantity of cattle are in the neighbourhood, feeding on a 
rich pasture which runs to Kirgannick twenty-five miles further 
where I got sight of the magnificent mountain scenery over-hang- 
ing Verchney Kamtchatsk. One Sopka (Peak) is especially re- 
markable. Milkova, a Russian peasant village, ten miles distant, 
contains fifteen houses and one hundred and twenty inhabitants, 
received me next, a neat place abounding in cattle, if thirty or forty 
of them may constitute an abundance; there are however no ani- 
mals of the chase. A handsome church has of late been erected 
under the auspices of Captain Golenistcheff, the second in com- 
mand of the Peninsula, whom I found expecting my arrival. I 
continued for Verchney Kamtchatsk, also a peasant's village, but 
was obliged to return owing to the inefficiency of the dogs, although 
distant only eight miles; I at length reached it much fatigued, hav- 
ing come through a pretty place called Schegatchik, where some 
Cossacks are stationed to take care of a few heads of horned cat- 
tle, and four or five horses, which belong to the government. The 
situation is beautiful, on a branch of the Kamtchalka, which make* 
a semicircular indentation into the land, just opposite to Verchney 
Kamtchatsk, forming an island opposite to the junction of the Gat- 
chick and Milkova. 

I procured fresh dogs at Verchney, a place on the decline, and 
proceeded towards Sherom twenty miles, situated in one of the 
most romantic and enchanting valleys in the Peninsula. I there 
met with the Ispravnick and eighteen nartes engaged for the col- 
lection of the yasacks, public and private, as well as for trade. I 
felt gratified to meet them, as I received good news of my affairs 
at the seat of government; and learnt also that there was a road 
before me to cross the desert, lying towards Malka. The Isprav- 
nick had been detained fourteen days in a storm, and he and all 
the party, men and dogs, were nearly perishing with hunger, hav- 
ing partaken of nothing but youkola (dried fish) for five days. 



. GANAL. 283 

Having exchanged dogs with another narle, I continued on for 
Pouschin, twenty miles, and arrived before noon. The Toion and 
I had a difference of opinion, which I shall ever regret, as it arose 
from my ignorance of the proper character of the Kamtchatdales. 
The poor man had heard of my coming, and had actually provided 
a good dinner for me, which I did not partake of, in consequence 
of his not inviting me; another poor man actually did invite me, 
and I entered his more humble dwelling. The Toion was much 
surprised, and more vexed at this slight, which tended to lower 
him in the opinion of his subjects. The fact proved to be that the 
Toion is really one of the oldest Kamtchatdales, and was only com- 
plying with the ancient custom of the country, which is not to in- 
vite a stranger into his dwelling, considering that such stranger 
has the right not only to take it, but even to eject its owners. I 
left him with great regret that I could not stay another day to make 
him amends; I did, however, all 1 couid, with this view. 

Ganal, forty-five miles from Pouschin, a romantic country, we 
passed in high glee at the near prospect of finishing my journey. 
The elevated ranges of mountains which form the Ganal Valley 
have all flat summits. To the valley succeeds a level plane, very 
subject to storms and heavy falls of snow. I reached the place at 
nine in the evening. The inhabitants, amounting to thirty-two, 
live in four yourtes, and are all afflicted with the disease so com- 
mon to the Peninsula; and the contagion, and want of medicine 
have been so great, that even the children are equally afflicted, and 
the complaint of scrofula is become hereditary. In this part of the 
Peninsula the chase is scarce, and the inhabitants mostly subsist 
upon fish, a few mountain sheep, and wild rein-deer, being the 
only meat they taste from one end of the year to the other. The 
situation is fine and highly productive in fish, but at this moment 
there are not a sufficiency of people to transact the ordinary busi- 



284 MALKA. 

ness; a circumstance which calls aloud for the compassion of the 
chief. 

From Ganal lo Malka are thirty miles, the first ten of which 
are over a sterile mountainous country, which is more than com- 
pensated by the succeeding richness of a valley eighteen miles in 
length. I crossed several times the Bistra, a rapid stream, unit- 
ing with the Bolshaya Reka, and was again obliged to become 
pilot, chief, and dog-master; however, I managed very well, and 
arrived early. Malka is deserving of little notice, yet is said to 
be celebrated for its baths! The situation is magnificently grand; 
the hospital stands in the bosom of a lofty chain of elevated moun- 
tains at two miles from the village. I was welcomed by two old 
acquaintances, both of whom are doctors. Having refreshed my- 
self, I proceeded to examine the hospitals and baths, all of which 
I found in a disgraceful state of filthiness and decay. There are 
two hospitals, one for the Kamtchatdales and a smaller one for the 
accommodation of the officers. There are also two baths, both ill 
contrived, and in want of every necessary and convenience which 
persons who have recourse to them require. The hospitals are 
without medicines, and the baths without flannel gowns, blankets, 
sheets, or towels; nor is there even a warm passage for the patient 
from feh!e bath to the hospital; he must come from a place, where 
the atmosphere is equal to 25° of heat, and pass through a current 
of air where there may be 15° or 20° of frost. There never was 
a place where more could and ought to be, or where so little has 
been, done for the benefit of so wretched a people. The late chief 
doctor was five years in the command of this hospital, during which 
period he did nothing but keep his patients increasing in disease; 
indeed it may be considered a fortunate circumstance for the Kamt- 
chatdales, that the governor was obliged to send him as surgeon of 
Captain Vassilieff 's ship, in lieu of the proper surgeon who remain- 
ed behind at sick quarters. Not even the most common vegetables 



MALKA. 285 

have been raised; and but for a few cows, the benevolent present 
of Captain Rikord, the chief, I hardly know what there would be 
of the really useful for this establishment, which certainly owes 
nothing either to the industry or humanity of the doctor before al- 
luded to. 

The state of some of those miserable creatures whom I saw in 
the hospital, was such as absolutely to prevent the doctor from 
dressing their wounds; of course I am incapable of describing 
them. They are allowed by the Emperor one pound of bread and 
half a pound of meat per day. They have also fish in abundance, 
and wild berries are to be found every where round the place. 
The patients, being all afflicted with one disease, are cramped up 
into one small space, never to go out but at their own desire, nor 
do any work, though they might raise an unlimited quantity of ve- 
getables from the grounds covered with the warm vapour. In 
short, instead of being as it is, a place calculated to engender and 
nourish disease almost to pestilence, it might be, at a trifling ex- 
pense and with proper care on the part of the head doctor, one of 
the most humane and efficient establishments on the face of the 
globe. 

With respect to the nature and quality of the baths, they had a 
strong smell of sulphur, and an unpleasant taste. The hot and 
cold springs are united at the baths, and it is a strange circum- 
stance, that the one should always be boiling hot in 25° of frost, 
while the other at 30° of heat is always below the freezing point. 
These were the only remarks my short stay in the month of De- 
cember, could enable me to make. I should, however, injustice 
observe, that the present head doctor, if it be Mr. Gramatin, who 
was my shipmate in the transport from Okotsk, is a man of talents, 
perseverance, and industry; and had, previous to my leaving the 
Peninsula, seven months after my arrival and visit to the hospiial, 
cleared the place of three-fourths of the patients, and sent them 



286 RETURN TO ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL'S. 

to their homes quite cured. He had no remedy but surgical ope- 
rations, and succeeded in first putting the patient to sleep, and 
then cutting out all the afflicted parts. To the truth of this state- 
ment, extraordinary as it will doubtless appear in Russia, I beg 
leave to add the attestation of Dr. Zaerzerfskey, who was with 
me at the hospital at the time to which I allude. 

My route from Malka to St. Peter and St. Paul's was over a 
highly picturesque valley, and in beautiful weather. I soon reached 
Nachikin and Koraki, and, changing dogs, proceeded very plea- 
santly till midnight damped our satisfaction a little with a fall of 
snow. We halted to refresh the dogs, and lay down till the peep 
of dawn enabled us to proceed, and we reached Avatcha by noon. 
But no dogs were to be procured there except three which carried 
my little baggage; I therefore proceeded on foot, and reached the 
haven at about three o'clock. My entry, alone and unperceived, 
was widely different from my departure: — my sensations were 
correspondent. In melancholy mood, leaving my betrothed for 
the sake of wandering over a long and painful journey; returning 
delighted to have done so before I should be made most happy, by 
finding that betrothed true, and all that I could desire, — but no 
more of this. 

Having thus completed the tour of the Peninsula, it will be 
proper in this place to enter on its description, with that of its in- 
habitants, their manners, customs, &c. 



287 



CHAPTER XI. 

General Observations on the Peninsula of Kamtchatka. 

Kamtchatka is a large peninsula of an elliptical figure, extend- 
ing from the latitude of 59° to 51° N.; the breadth is inconsidera- 
ble. A magnificent chain of mountains, with numerous sopkas 
or peaks, extend from north to south, the whole length of the Pe- 
ninsula, from which mountains numerous rivers, large and small, 
find their way into the ocean. Of these the Kamtchatka is the 
only navigable one, admitting vessels of one hundred tons as far as 
one hundred and fifty miles up the stream. All the rivers are, 
however, crowded with fish of superior flavour. There are also 
lakes of considerable size, and so numerous, that all intercourse 
between the several parts of the Peninsula, is during spring, sum- 
mer and autumn, effectually precluded. 

The productions of the country are few but valuable- There 
is an abundance of wood, as fit for ship-building as for general use. 
The finest timber is found on the banks of the Kamtchatka, Ye- 
lofka, and eastern coast, but the climate is such as to induce me 
to believe that neither corn nor vegetables will ever attain to great 
perfection; the soil in all seasons, at the depth of twenty-four to 
thirty inches, being frozen. Potatoes never ripen, cabbages never 
come to a head, and peas only flower; but turnips and radishes" 
thrive amazingly. Grass of the most nutritious quality is found 
in the gratest abundance, as well in the numerous meadows as in 



288 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

the forests. It grows to the height of between five and six feet. 
and in some places three crops are produced within the year. 

Winter may be said to occupy near one half of the year, spring 
and summer the other half. The winters are mild when compar- 
ed to those of Siberia; the thermometer never descending, in the 
southern parts of the Peninsula, below 20° of Reaumur, and 
seldom below 12° and 15°. Spring is the most agreeable time, 
just when the leaves put forth, and it is then the fishing com- 
mences. The summer is the most disagreeable portion of the year, 
owing to the heavy rains and heavier fogs which come from the 
eternally snow-clad mountains. The greatest heat is in July, 
when the thermometer is at 27° and 28°. The snow lying upon 
the ground seven and eight months will sufficiently account for the 
want of cultivation, but indeed the remaining four can hardly be 
considered as equal to more than two months in other places; for 
the sun at St. Peter and St. Paul's has no effect upon the earth 
during more than four hours of the day, and from the immense 
height of the mountains, it is only from ten o'clock until two that 
any heat is felt. 

This absence of heat, and these changes of climate, with the 
very heavy fogs, which account for the sterility of the soil, operate 
also to prevent the inhabitants from laying in a sufficient store of 
winter provisions, which as they consist of fish are exposed to the 
air to dry, and in a short time become so rotten and maggotty, that 
but a small quantity can be made serviceable for the consumption 
of the people; the rest is retained for the dogs. Salt is at present 
issued, but not in sufficient quantities; were that article more 
liberally distributed, the people might in some years prepare fish 
to last them several successive ones. From the quantity now 
supplied by the king of the Sandwich islands, it is to be hoped 
that the first productive season will be taken advantage of. 

Of wild vegetables, some of which are mixed with the bark of 

V 



THE PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA. 280 

trees for the fare of the inhabitants, there is an abundance in, 
Kamtchatka, and there is no doubt that greens, turnips, and ra- 
dishes might with a little trouble be every where produced. Wild 
berries and wild garlic abound; the latter is exported to Okotsk 
and Yakutsk: this plant is one of the finest antiscorbutics known, 
but has a peculiarly offensive smell. 

The principal riches of Kamtchatka may be said to consist ifi 
the animals of the chase, of which there are so prodigious a num- 
ber, that there are not sufficient inhabitants to take them. The 
most valuable are foxes of various colours, a few sea and more 
river otters, with an immense number of sables. Bears, wolves, 
rein -deer and mountain-sheep, and sometimes a few lynxes, are 
also to be found. The number of skins annually exported and 
consumed in the peninsula is about thirty thousand, of which sables 
and foxes form the principal part. The sables are considered at 
once the warmest and the coarsest known; the foxes however, espe- 
cially the fiery red, are of the finest species. Next to these furs, 
the dogs of Kamtchatka may be considered as forming a great part 
of their riches. These faithful and useful animals, are employed 
to transport fish, supply the house with water, the cattle with hay, 
'—in short to do all the work that horses perform in England. 
They are fed as circumstances may dictate, being always left to 
shift for themselves from June to October. They are of a coarse 
appearance, in shape resembling a common house dog, but endued 
with great sagacity, and it is to be regretted that they are not re- 
lieved a little by the importation of horses. 

Independent of fish and wild animals, the Kamtchatdales de- 
rive also a considerable benefit from the surprising quantities of 
geese, ducks, swans, snipes, and wild cocks. They are preserved 
by dipping them in water, which freezing, they will be good as 
long as winter continues; at other times they are salted. The 
ducks and snipes are most excellent; but the geese, swans, and 
Oo 



290 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

wild sheep are considered venison, and of the most delicious kind 
too, by those who are termed epicures; for myself, although I havr- 
frequently partaken of them, I never could relish their flesh. The 
Kamtchatdales also derive great benefit from the whales, which are, 
numerous, and which being encountered by the Kasatka, for the 
sake Of the tongue, as is supposed, are killed and cast ashore. 
Upon the whole, therefore, there are no people at whose disposition 
Providence has placed more of the necessaries of life, than the 
inhabitants of Kamtchatka. For their direct subsistence, they 
have fish, flesh, and fowl, wild berries and roots in great variety 
and abundance, sufficient doubtless to maintain a large population; 
while for clothing, tbey have immense quantities of furs of the 
warmest and most durable kind; and for firing and building, wood 
is every where to be had in the utmost profusion. 

Such being the case, it becomes a matter of speculation, what 
could induce the aborigines to live in that filthy and famished con- 
dition which formerly characterized them. Was it from an over 
abundant population, or the want of means to possess themselves of 
food — such as guns, nets and traps? That they had means to entrap 
game and fish for a certain proportion of the inhabitants there can 
be no doubt, but whether sufficient for a large population is very 
questionable. 

Of the people in general, I can only say they are as amiable and 
honest as ever. They are now established in villages all built in 
the old Russian style, which are clean and comfortable. During 
the summer or fishing season, they leave their winter residences 
for the balagans or places which they use for drying their fish. 
Thus the summer is employed in preparing food against the 
winter, which latter is taken up in the chase. Beyond this the 
Kamchatdale is still the same lazy, drunken, servile animal as for- 
merly. Their ancient language is not forgotten, but is so far out 
of use that there are few who do not speak Russian. Most of the 



THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA, 291 

aborigines are baptized, and may be said lo live as the Russians 
do. The number of real Kamtchatdales who retain their ancient 
usages is small. They reside on the northern coasts beyond Tygil 
and Nishney Kamtchatsk. Hospitality is the most striking feature 
in their character; but they are also distinguished by their strict 
adherence to truth, and their honesty is proverbial. Without being 
forward to complain of ill-treatment, they will fearlessly recount 
it when questioned. They are in part governed by their own 
Toions or Chiefs, but an annual visit is made to each village by 
the Ispravnick or Chief Judge, as well for the purpose of collect- 
ing sables as of administering justice. 

Their dress is the same as formerly, that for the winter season 
being made of the skins of beasts; but in summer they wear nan- 
keens, and at present there is hardly a Kamtchatdale who does not 
wear a shirt. The women have also adopted the Russian head- 
dress, the articles for which are procured from (he pedlers at a 
most exorbitant rate. It is surprising that this people, who have 
now been feeling the extreme of oppression from neglect and mal- 
administration, for one hundred and twenty years, should not have 
become wiser and more economical in their habits; on the con- 
trary, one might suppose they were a people but yesterday dis- 
covered. They will part with the most valuable furs for a trifling 
article, or a glass of spirits. 

I need say nothing of their superstitions, as they are nearly at 
an end. They now place as much reliance upon the efforts of 
the priests, as they formerly did on (heir shamanes, with this dif- 
ference only, that to the latter they give many furs, while to the 
former they only gave a hearty meal. 

Of laws they have but few of their own, their motto being some- 
thing like that of the Chinese, " to return evil for evil, and good for 
good." At present they await the arrival of the Chief, of an Offi- 
cer, or of a Commissary, with a great deal of ceremony, giving 



29S GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

him tlie be,st lodging, and acknowledging, if I may so say, his 
supremacy. Formerly, it appears, they lived in a perfect stale of 
equality and independence of each other, age and expertness in 
Siunting alone being held in estimation of respect. 

The Kamtchatdales are now supplied with culinary utensils and 
every thing they can require by the Russians; and as they live 
exactly in the same manner, and in the same description of houses 
with the latter, I need only refer my readers to an account of a 
Russian village; in their outward appearance there is no difference 
whatever. They seem a race disburthened of all care and con- 
sideration for the future, and entirely resigned to any fate which 
may await them, whether it be oppression or starvation. 

In my opinion, and I speak it most sincerely, the aborigines 
have not derived much benefit from the conquest of their country 
by the Russians, as even their conversion to Christianity ha* 
done little other good, than entitled them to the name of Christians. 
The great number of priests and deacons (twenty-six in number) 
would, I presume, suggest an expectation of more learning and 
piety in this part of the world than in other semi-barbarous places; 
but really I have never seen any good effects from the labours of 
these reverend gentlemen. Certainly there is no population cor- 
responding to the number of ecclesiastics, as will appear on con- 
sidering that the whole Kamtchatdale population does not exceed*, 
male and female, two thousand seven hundred and sixty, while 
their dogs amount to two thousand two hundred and eight. The 
number of Russians is one thousand two hundred and sixty. The 
inhabitants north of Tygil and Nishney Kamtchatsk, are four hun- 
dred and ninety-eight, while in the Koriak villages there are one 
hundred souls; making a population of four thousand five hundred 
and seventy-four, men, women, and children, Russians, Kamtchat- 
dales and Koriaks. Whether the original population has not de- 
ceased in a surprising degree is a question I shall not answer^ 



THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA. 29& 

farther than by reminding my readers that at the discovery of 
Kamtchalka, we are told in the Russian history, that no less than 
one hundred and sixteen villages- were on the banks of the river 
Kamtchalka. The small-pox, and its rival distemper, with other 
diseases, and above all the spirit of persecution which has been 
unremittingly practised towards these poor people, have been the 
several causes of the depopulation. Of late, however, I can with 
certainty say the population has not decreased; this may be owing 
to the benefits arising from vaccination, as well as somewhat better 
medical attendants. But although population has of late kept its 
maximum, it may be a question whe-her the aborigines have not 
decreased in the same ratio that the Russians and convicts have 
increased. At present there are several Yakut as well as Russian 
exiles, in the peninsula, neither of whom can be of much benefit; 
but both assisting to persecute and plunder the Kamtchatdales. 

Of the history and origin of the Kamtchatdales little positive has 
ever been known; and that only for the last one hundred and thirty 
years. Kamtchatka is supposed to have been visited by some 
Russians in 1649, when one of the traveller DeshnefT's vessels, 
was wrecked on its coast. Those Russians lived with them in 
peace for a considerable period of time; but quarrelling among 
themselves were murdered. Nothing more is known of the place 
until Vladimir Atlassof discovered the peninsula in his excursions 
from the Anadyr, from which time a constant petty warfare con- 
tinued between the Russians and natives, until the general revolt 
and massacre in 1731. Since this period, the peninsula has not 
been greatly troubled with either conspiracies or massacres. Little 
doubt can exist that the Kamtchatdales are of Asiatic origin; of 
this, their features and customs, as well as their dwarfish size, are 
evident tokens. I have read several dissertations upon the subject, 
but disagree with most of them. My own opinion is formed from 
ocular demonstration alone, and not from a study of the circum 



294 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

stances under which they labour. Their having progressed from 
America is indeed a ridiculous idea; and their having learnt many 
secrets, as causing fire by friction, &c. from the inhabitants of the 
opposite continent, is just as probable as the other sagacious no- 
tions, that they were the teachers. How, in either case, could 
they pass that formerly ferocious and warlike race, the Tchuktchi? 
Or if they had come from the north of Siberia, from Irkutsk or 
Yakutsk by Okotsk, and Idgiga, how did they pass the still more 
fierce and barbarous Koriaks? The idea is absurd; and the only 
one 1 can for a moment entertain is, that they are a Mongole tribe, 
who were driven down the Amoor, and passing along the Kurile 
Isles, reached Kamtchatka. A few of the same race are still the 
inhabitants of those isles, with a dialect of the same language, 
originating from the Mongolian, and the only difference between 
them and the Kamtchatdales is, that they are a more manly, and con- 
sequently a more independent race; for of all the people at present 
existing, I believe the natives of this Peninsula to be the most affa- 
ble and hospitable; but, at the same time, the most cowardly and 
insensible. I never saw in any part of the world a people more 
abused, under the sanction of a proverb, now become almost a 
principle, " God is high, and the Emperor far off." 

Their modes of fishing and hunting, and such productions of 
(he country as I have not noticed may be found in Cook's and 
other travels. I will therefore proceed to compare the present 
happiness of the people of this Peninsula, with that which they 
formerly enjoyed. In the first place, as to their possessions in 
horses or horned cattle. — It appears by the last census, that there 
are but one hundred and nine of the former, and nine hundred 
and sixty-eight of the latter in the whole Peninsula, two-thirds of 
which are in the hands of the Russians; and but three hundred 
and ninety-three head of cattle in the possession of three thousand 
four hundred Kamtchatdales and Koriaks. It is to be regretted 



THE PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA. 295 

that the flattering prospects held out by Captain King, have not 
been realized. The introduction of horses and horned cattle would 
much tend to ameliorate the condition of the people, were they 
once imported upon a large scale. The dogs, like the aborigines, 
are on the decline, and probably twenty or thirty years more will 
leave nothing in Kamtchatka but the Russians and animals of the 
chase. When it is recollected that Kamtchatka has such magni- 
ficent and extensive meadows, and that the climate is not severe; 
and when it is considered with what facility government might 
send each year two or three hundred head of young cattle by the 
annual transports to Tygil, it may be naturally supposed that the 
different chiefs have been attending more to their personal con- 
cerns than to those of the peninsula. That the place might be 
made even to flourish, there can be no reasonable doubt. 

The expenses of the colony have been very great to Russia, and 
must continue so, so long as the present plan is persisted in. The 
yasack amounts to a less sura of money than the single mainte- 
nance of a chief. Five hundred heads of foxes or sables, worth 
six thousand roubles, or three hundred pounds, is the amount; 
while the expenses of the colony cannot fall short of two hundred 
thousand roubles, or ten thousand pounds. 

The depopulated state of this Peninsula is also to be attributed 
to other causes. Their continual wars and insurrections greatly 
thinned them, and these were followed by the introduction of the 
small-pox, which in the year 1768, carried off no less than six 
thousand persons; and twenty thousand are supposed to have fallen 
victims to it within a short period. Yet at this moment there is 
a want of vaccinating matter, nor is it a questionable assertion 
that the quality of medicines in the hospitals is shamefully adulte- 
rated, and the quantity small. The present worthy chief has how- 
ever caused an inquiry to be made upon this subject, and the 
result has been transmitted to government. But it is not the small- 



296 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

pox alone, that the arrival of the Russians iniroduced into this 
place; the distemper before alluded to has made, and continues to 
make, most dreadful ravages in every part of the Peninsula, very 
few families being free from the taint, and no part of the world 
can show more miserable objects of its fury. The whole race in- 
deed look like beings better qualified to extinguish than propagate 
the human species; nor is this surprising, considering their present 
state, almost without hospitals, medicines, or attendants, save that 
ill-managed house at Malka. 

Besides these two diseases, the inhabitants of Kamtchatka are 
subject to all those which make havoc in countries where the 
people are ordinarily ill fed, ill clothed, and liable to famine. The 
last has frequently visited this Peninsula, more from a want of 
people than of food; for fish is not always to be ha«d upon both 
sides of the Peninsula at the same time, and they have not the 
means of transporting the superabundant quantity to the opposite 
coast. 

Another great cause of this ravage in population has arisen from 
the introduction of spirits: a Kamtchatdale will sell his last sable 
or fox for a glass of it, though he is not physically strong enough 
to drink any thing of the kind. When it is considered that sixteen 
thousand bottles of this trash are consumed in the short period of 
three or four months by six or seven hundred people, we may well 
feel pity and surprise — pity for the poor women and children, and 
surprise at the means of getting either the money or sables. Such 
a quantity of spirit ought to sell for fifty thousand roubles, which 
is one hundred per cent, upon the price at Okotsk, but it is in 
reality sold for twice that sum. When it is recollected that offi- 
cers, soldiers, sailors, merchants, and priests travel round the 
Peninsula for the purposes of trade, it will be less wonderful when 
I assert that each bottle of spirits sold io the Kamtchatdales, pro- 
duces the value of ten and twelve shillings. Now allowing half 



THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA. 297 

the quantity imported (eight thousand bottles) to be consumed by 
the aborigines, this would produce from eighty to one hundred 
thousand roubles, while the cost is, in Okotsk, only twenty-five 
thousand. I have seen a bottle of spirits sold for a sable, and af- 
terwards, when the party was drunk, a bottle of adulterated liquor 
has fetched the same price: in short, I have seen three and even 
four sables given for two bottles of spirits. 

Allowing seven hundred and fifty families of the Koriaks and 
Kamtchatdales, which is five to each family, and that half the 
quantity of imported spirit is consumed by them, it will appear 
that each family consumes at least twelve bottles in four months. 
By this plan the poor purchaser is drunk for days together, and for 
the rest of the year can get nothing to cheer him under his de- 
pression. The cost of that spirit to the Kamlchatdales is one hun- 
dred and fifty or two hundred roubles, a prodigious sum for a poor 
family to expend upon an article so pernicious in its moral and 
physical effects. Such a sum of money in Kamtchatka would 
produce near six or eight hundred pounds weight of flour; enough 
to support a small family during a whole year: or, such a sum 
would enable them to purchase proper clothing, culinary utensils, 
nets, twine, tobacco, axes, and knives. The evil of these grog-shops 
is carried to so ruinous an extent, that the children of the natives 
are left for three and four days without any food, save yukola, dried 
fish, doled out to them once or twice within that time. I have 
known instances of mothers and children being left without any 
means of support, in consequence of the retailing of such trash 
being allowed. The yukola and the bark of trees is, in such cases, 
almost the only nourishment the women and children can procure 
for several days. If they happen to be possessed of a cow, they 
are considered very fortunate. It needs little philosophy to prove 
that it is only by taking care of the rising generation that the stock 
itself can be preserved, which will not long be possible, if spirit 
Pp 



298 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

continue to be transported and retailed out as it now is.— While 
making these reflections in England, I am aware that the Russian 
Government have desisted from this trade, but this is only the 
worse for the Kamtchatdales, inasmuch as the pedlars take an 
extra quantity, and demand a most exorbitant price for a spirit 
infinitely inferior. 

The abuses arising from the collection of the yasack are most 
cruel. The yasack itself is inconsiderable, but from the arbi- 
trary manner in which it is collected, it is rendered odious and 
oppressive. The tribute is levied in kind at any low or capricious 
valuation, and it has not unfrequently happened that the Toion of 
a village, who does not properly compliment the Chief or other 
officer, upon the annual visit, has so small a price put upon his 
furs, in payment of their tribute, that they sustain a loss of two, 
three, and even four hundred per cent. I have seen sables valued 
at half-a-crown for which the merchants present would have given 
twelve shillings. Independent of the yasack, each Kamtchatdale 
has to pay seventy copecs, or seven pence, as a sort of capitation 
or poll-tax, upon failure of which the Ispravnick may have re- 
course to the most arbitrary and unjust measures. Any property 
may be seized and sold on the moment, such as axes, knives, nets, 
guns, kettles, or the clothing of the family; and it has often hap- 
pened that a poor family has been ruined through the cruel and 
oppressive conduct of these tax-gatherers, not from a deficiency of 
the legal dues, but of illegal dues. The mode of taxation in each 
ostrog is also highly objectionable, and sometimes rendered cruel, 
They are not taxed as a people but as a place, and it not unfre- 
quently happens that the village which formerly contained forty 
or fifty able people, and was taxed as such, does not the following 
year contain more than twenty or twenty-five, in consequence of 
illness or removals. There is, however, no remedy, the yasack 
of the whole must be paid by the few. Jt is also not a little sin- 



THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA. 299 

guiar that each ostrog is taxed in money, and yet money cannot be 
received; the duplicity of this act is too apparent to be mentioned,, 
yet it would be seen that the government must be unacquainted 
with a fact of the kind, for the difference in the amount of the 
tribute would not equal one hundred pounds. Instead of the sum 
of money at which each village is rated, the inhabitants are obliged 
to pay furs at one fourth the value. Sables of the finest quality, 
and worth forty shillings a pair, are never averaged at more than 
ten. It would be more honest to increase the nominal tribute of 
money, or put a specific tax on furs, which would be felt less se- 
verely, because an appearance of candour would accompany it. 

The next galling tax is that levied for the tax-gatherer himself, 
and this is a greater grievance than that levied on behalf of the 
Emperor, and under more humiliating circumstances. Each os- 
trog, and each Toion or Chief of it, is also compelled to pay the 
same tribute to his actual Chief as to the Emperor himself; so 
that the yasac is tie facto paid at least five times over. 

Nor is the impolitic system of collecting the tribute more injtik 
rious than that arising from forced or gratuitous services, such as 
the forwarding of the post, the transport of flour and salt, and the 
issuing of palvodies, or forced levies of horses or dogs, to officers 
and favourites. This is indeed an intolerable abuse, and calls 
loudly for redress. There can be no doubt but that if the propri- 
etors of dogs were rewarded at a proper time and in a proper 
manner, they would as much court the employment as they now 
abhor it. According to the present plan the natives lose their 
time, their dogs, their health, and their provisions. Any favour- 
ite or officer who may wish to trade is furnished with one of these 
free billets, which authorizes him, upon the plea of public duty, 
to call out men and dogs. While the manner of the officer or fa- 
vourite seems to intimate, that he confers an obligation upon the 
Chief of the village by his acceptance of a couple of sables a& 



SOD GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

a present. Nor is this all: not content with the present, the party 
travelling has the privilege of trading, and buying just as many 
more sables as the poor aboriginal may have caught, and which 
are invariably sold for just such a consideration as the officer may 
incline to give. 

If a governor or officer be compelled to travel upon, public ser* 
vice, and receive from the Crown a sum of money to pay travel- 
ling expenses, it seems very strange that such money is not paid 
to these poor people. As little can I understand why a post should 
travel gratis: surely the poorest and most distant part of the Rus- 
sian empire, should not be oppressed in such a manner. It is true 
the sum paid by the government to officers when travelling is 
small, as well as that paid to the postillion when in charge of th$ 
post; but small as it is in itself, it would be acceptable to those to 
whom it would appear much. As to officers' travelling, for which 
there is no public necessity, they can at best but reap the advan- 
tages belonging to the fair trader, who is not inconsiderably taxed.. 
I have heard an officer of high rank assert, that every voyage from 
Kamtchatka to Okotsk and back again, was worth ten thousand- 
doubles, or five hundred pounds; and I believe he spoke the truth. 

With respect to the pedlers, here denominated merchants, they 
in truth ought to be taxed severely, as well in regard to the goods 
they bring as the price at which they are sold, the articles being 
such as are of light burthen, or will return the greatest profit. 
The ignorance of the aborigines is such, and their thoughtlessness 
of the future so great, that they prefer present luxuries to future 
necessities. The quantity of articles hawked about by the mer- 
chants consists of tobacco, spirits, silks, tea, sugar, nankeen and 
cotton handkerchiefs. Every Kamtchatdale keeps open house, 
and upon the arrival of a Russian his door is held open, the owner 
standing by it uncovered, and awaiting the entry of his noble 
guest, who, making an obeisance to the kasaika or landlady^ 



THE PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA. SOt 

passes on to the most comfortable part of the dwelling, and divesting 
himself of the unwieldy clothing so necessary in this part of the 
world, calls for dinner or supper as the time may be, orders food 
for his dogs, eats and drinks well, has a bed prepared for him, 
and takes breakfast, consisting of fine game, fish, and the like. 
The intermediate time is employed in extorting three or four hun- 
dred per cent, profit for his goods, and the only remuneration to 
his host is a glass of spirits or a leaf of tobacco, in some cases 
not even a " thank ye," although stress of weather has, unfortu- 
nately for them, detained him to partake of their hospitality for a 
week or more. 

Were the merchants compelled to take more woollens and linens, 
some flour or oatmeal, with a sufficient quantity of axes, knives, 
kettles, twine, nets, and other implemenls of great necessity, there 
would be less objection to their proceeding round the Peninsula, 
and less inducement for officers to do so. Tobacco, it is true, is 
an article of great demand as well as of great necessity; tea and 
sugar are also in considerable demand, though, probably, too much 
money is lavished upon both these articles, by the Kamtchatdales; 
as also upon silks, nankeens, and fine cottons. A great benefit 
would arise from the establishment of a general fair in Kamtchatka, 
to be held at St. Peter and St. Paul's, as well as from two or 
three provincial fairs to be held upon a certain day at certain 
places. Among the people who also travel round the Peninsula 
of Kamtchatka are doctors and parsons. They are both extremely 
troublesome, for while the one affects to prepare the soul, and the 
other the body, both I believe are more concerned in fleecing the 
thoughtless aboriginal, and in depriving him of the means of 
support. 

The quantiy of convicts sent amongst a people so susceptible 
of imposition is also a serious grievance. The convicts, as Rus- 
sians, have an indirect ascendancy over the Kamtchatdales, which 



302 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

is exercised in a most intolerant and infamous manner. The con- 
victs frequently desert, and commit every species of villany and 
outrage, even to the. fomenting of insurrections. This was the 
case during my stay in the Peninsula; nor are the Kamtchatdales 
so dull, but that they remember Count Beniofsky with horror. If 
the government of Russia really feel interested in the prosperity 
of Kamtchatka, and I don't doubt it, they have an easy mode of 
effecting it, by transplanting thither tvvo or three thousand Yakuti, 
with their cattle. They are an industrious, ingenious, and peacea- 
ble people, and, being excellent herdsmen, they could not, of 
course, but thrive in a country of such extensive and rich pas- 
tures. 

I cannot refrain from mentioning what appears to me a most 
desirable plan of administering a direct, and yet in-expensive re- 
lief to these poor people: Let the yasack be totally abolished, and 
let each family of tbe aborigines be compelled to lake from the 
government one pood of flour per month, at the price, say, of a 
sable or fox skin. The result would be, that government would 
issue an extra six thousand poods of flour at an expense of sixty 
thousand roubles, in return for which they would receive six thou- 
sand skins, worth at least ninety thousand roubles; leaving a gross 
profit of four times the price of the present yasack, and actually 
assisting the Kamtchatdales by the abandonment of a direct tax of 
half the amount — to say nothing of the benefits which would ac- 
crue from such a measure to the females and children, who are 
now left for many days without tasting any other food than bad 
fish or the bark of trees. I do not know what effect a poll-tax 
may have upon the animal frame, but it appears to be no incite- 
ment to procreation. In Kamtchatka it is the same as in Mexico; 
a single man pays a heavy tax, a married man a heavier, and a 
father the heaviest of all. Such conduct is bad policy on the part 



THE PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA. 303 

of government, and carries with it more the appearance of a wish 
to extinguish, than to increase the population of Siberia. 

I have already commented upon the evil effects arising from 
forced levies, and forced services; of the transport of flour, salt, 
spirits, the post, as well as officers from one place to another with- 
out any remuneration to the inhabitants. Of the conduct of these 
travelling gentlemen, high and low, it will be sufficient to give a 
specimen. The officer, upon arriving at a village, is received by 
the Toion or thief, and conducted to the warmest and cleanest 
part of the yourte. His upper garments are taken from him, clear- 
ed of the snow and put out in the open air for the night; it being 
understood that the colder the dress is put on in a cold country, 
the warmer it ultimately becomes. The landlady, or Toionsha, is 
also engaged in scraping the boots of the travellers, to prevent the 
heat of the room from melting the snow which adheres to them. 
The best provisions are then got ready as fast as possible, either 
for dinner or supper, as the time may suit. The Toion then comes 
in with a reluctant smile and a pair of handsome sables, and bow- 
ing to the officer, places them upon the table for his acceptance. 
Dinner being at length served up, the officer may be considerate 
enough to give the Toion a glass of spirits, as also to permit the 
family to partake of the tea-leavings. Having finished his dinner, 
the officer asks the Toion if the chase has been good, and how 
many sables he has got, probably two, four or six, which he ac- 
cordingly takes for as many handkerchiefs, pieces of nankeen, 
pounds of tobacco, or a small quantity of tea and sugar. The 
dogs of the village are at last ordered out and the officer departs, 
in perfect complacency with his conduct and condescending de- 
meanour. 

I have never been able to ascertain the exact number of animals 
annually caught in the Peninsula, but suppose they cannot fall 
short of thirty thousand, worth at least two hundred thousand rou- 



304 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

Wes. One out of every forty is supposed to be paid to the empe- 
ror upon their arrival at Okotsk, but it is very difficult to insure any 
payment of such a tax except from the regular traders, and they 
also manage to defraud the government of the proper dues. The 
value of the furs varies; a sea-otter is worth thirty-five pounds; a 
black fox, twenty pounds; black and white fox, ten pounds; brown 
fox, two pounds; a common fox, twelve shillings; and a white or 
blue fox, as little as two shillings and sixpence; sables vary from 
eight to twelve shillings. For these bread is bartered at eight 
shillings the pood; tea at twelve shillings the pound; sugar, four 
shillings, and tobacco three shillings the pound; in short no article 
is sold for less than four hundred per cent, profit upon the actual 
expense of fetching it from Canton; with the advantage in that 
case of procuring all sorts of coarse cottons, nankeens, and hand* 
kerchiefs, besides iron utensils. 

The American Company might, and ought to contract with the 
government for supplying flour to Okotsk, Idgiga and Kamtchatka, 
for which about forty thousand poods are annually required. Their 
abundance of unemployed vessels would also enable them to fur- 
nish the aborigines with every thing they require, at a cheap and 
yet a profitable rate. But such is the pertinacity and jealousy of 
those composing that body, that they will do nothing even to benefit 
themselves, if it be also of benefit to others. And thus, a trade 
with Manilla, Canton, the South Sea islands, California, Calcutta 
and Japan, as well as the establishment of a whale fishery are 
sacrificed; and the eastern frontiers of the Russian empire remain 
in their original barren, impoverished, and savage state, instead of 
boasting a flourishing trade carried on by a civilized, organized, 
and friendly population. The produce of the above mentioned 
places might be warehoused in Kamchatka, and in the ensuing 
summer be transported to Okotsk, and thence over all Siberia. 

The drying and salting of fish, the felling of timber for furniture, 



THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA. 305 

and the countenancing of agricultural pursuits, could not fail of 
benefiting Kamchatka; but the whale fishery would, above all 
things, redound to the honour and interest of Russia. It may not 
be amiss to add, that the importation of foreign corn would much 
assist the Yakuti; its immediate effect would be to save the lives 
of twenty thousand horses, which are annually sacrificed by hard 
work or famine. Formerly, when the horses were more numerous, 
from eighty to one hundred thousand were annually employed be- 
tween Okotsk and Yakutsk by the merchants, the American Com- 
pany, and the government; at present there are not more than thirty 
thousand. Of these, at least one-half are sacrificed, and the re- 
mainder rendered unfit for a second trip. The whole number of 
horses annually sacrificed does not, it is said, fall short of fifty 
thousand; so that ere long they will also be extinct, and with them 
the very being of the Yakuti, who are even now going down in an 
equal ratio. 

Much benefit has been derived to the colony from the exertions 
of the present Chief, Captain Rikord. The rule of never allow- 
ing a cow to be killed until she is past calving, is in itself excel- 
lent, but the stock on hand is so small that a century would elapse 
before what can be termed herds of cattle could be seen wandering 
and feasting upon the almost unhounded pastures of the Peninsula. 
What the different chiefs have been doing for the last fifty years, 
Heaven alone knows! When Captains King and Clarke were 
here, they seem to have taken it for granted, or to have been in- 
formed, that cattle of all descriptions were in a flourishing state. 
From the proximity of Okotsk to Tygil, a couple of transports 
might, in one summer, transport at least one thousand head of cat- 
tle, which, repeated for ten years, would place the Peninsula in 
an absolutely enviable situation, This act of humanity would be 
attended with no expense to the government; the Kamtchatdales 
would willingly pay the value in sables, and the result would be, 
Qq 



306 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

that no part of the vast Russian empire would be richer or better 
provided with food of various descriptions than the distant province 
of Kamtchatka. 

Upon the banks of the Kamtchatka, where the land lies distant 
from the salt water, and sheltered by the mountains from the east 
winds; as well as on those banks which have been enriched by the 
lava emitted by the volcanoes, barley, oats, and rye have been pro- 
duced, but in no instance wilh so much success as to pay the la- 
bour. The productions, it is true, have been a little more varied 
and a little riper, but rarely consumable. In spite of this fact, the 
gazettes of St. Petersburgh formally and officially announce this 
year that a quartern of rye produced nine quarterns, and that the 
size or weight of a common potatoe was three quarters of a pound. 
Three quarters of an ounce would be a sufficient tax upon credulity: 
J have no hesitation in saying that both these reports are fabulous 
in every sense of the word, for I have never seen a potatoe in the 
whole province either ripe, or larger than a hen's egg. 

If large herds of cattle were distributed on the banks of the Kamt- 
chatka, and other favoured places, with the benefit of manure, 
agricultural implements, and knowledge, no doubt the soil might 
be made to answer the purpose. I certainly cannot conceive the 
climate of Kamtchatka to be such, as of itself to preclude the pur- 
suit of agriculture in some of its minor branches, as I consider the 
soil to be much superior to that of Connecticut, or Massachusetts, 
or either of our Canadas. 

In the vicinity of Avatcha are to be seen, what are by some 
termed artificial enclosures, within which cattle were formerly 
maintained, but I conclude them to be natural enclosures formed 
by the overflowing of the rivers. My reason is, that no enclosure 
is to be found upon (he Jand side, but only on the borders of the 
rivers, and small streams, and there they are perfect; and we are 



THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA. oQfi 

generally informed that the Kamtchatdales possessed no olher do- 
mestic animals than dogs. 

Before entirely closing these remarks respecting Kamlchatka, 
and its grievances, I may just advert to one or two points not 
hitherto dwelt on. The children of the natives receive no educa- 
tion, and the children of the Russians but little more. There cer- 
tainly is a school existing in St. Peter and St. Paul's, governed by 
a priest, and regular schoolmaster; but one is a great rogue, and 
the other a greater sot. The sum allowed for the maintenance 
of each child is, I believe, five pounds per annum, scarcely enough 
to buy clothing, and were it not for the abundance of fish caught, 
and some assistance from their families, I really do not see how 
the boys could be kept alive. Of the clerical gentlemen them- 
selves, I may observe, that they maintain a great distinction be- 
tween practice and precept. They are very numerous: I know 
not what so many do in so poor a place, there being no congrega- 
tions to employ so great a number. The revenue received by these 
reverend gentlemen is far from inconsiderable, and although it is 
done under the disguise of voluntary contribution, still it presses 
heavy upon the people; and heavier still when it is considered that 
they do little work of any kind besides trade. Of late the Empe- 
ror has given the clergy an allowance of flour as well as a regular 
salary, and it may therefore be hoped that the natives will, at least, 
be so far benefited as to have fewer of their visits, except on their 
spiritual concerns. 

Whether the Russian government will pay any attention to the 
serious and deplorable situation of the peninsula of Kamtchatka is 
of no personal consequence to me, though I may well feel a strong 
interest concerning a place in which I resided for more »han a 
year, and where I married. The ceremony was attended with 
much more pomp and parade than if it had been celebrated in 
England: it took place on the 8th of January, and I certainly am 



308 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

the first Englishman that ever married a Kamtchatdale, and my 
wife undoubtedly the first native of that peninsula that ever visited 
happy Britain. 

The winter was passed in a constant round of hospitality and 
comfort, and hardly any thing remarkable occurred to call for ob- 
servation, Three shocks of earthquakes were felt, two of them 
very severe: one threw the sand up from the banks of the river 
Kamtchatka, and quite annihilated the snow; the Kliuchefska 
Sopka also emitted flames ^and lava. The snow began to disap- 
pear at St. Peter and St. Paul's in the beginning of May. By the 
middle of the month one of the transports sailed from the port to 
Nishney Kamfchatsk, reaching it in five days; and by the latter 
end of May the snow had entirely disappeared, and Spring, in the 
course of a few days, made her welcome appearance; wild flow- 
ers and vegetables were every where springing up, and enlivening 
the dreariness of the last seven months. Even the rigging of the 
transport which was to carry me back, excited my interest, and 
reminded me of former times. The attention of the inhabitants 
was sufficiently engaged by the accession of fish, as herrings in the 
inner harbour, cod in the outer haven, and seals every where. 
Some among them proceeded to the islands at the mouth of the 
haven, and brought in some thousands of eggs, while others were 
out in shooting parties, sending us in snipes, wild ducks, and par- 
tridges. The wild garlic made its first appearance at Cape Gar- 
lick so early as the 1 5th of May. 

Only a few individuals died in the hospital, most of them with 
the scurvy; the remainder were soon restored to sound health by 
Spring and fresh fish. Our evening walks were sometimes ex- 
tended to the summits of the hills, where we took our tea or 
smoked a segar; but latterly the little place, — I cannot call it a 
town, — became overflowed from the melting of the snow, and it 
was with difficulty we could move about. In the month of June 



THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA. 309 

a vessel arrived from Canton and Manilla, in ballast, having failed 
in procuring a cargo of flour. By that vessel I received a most 
friendly letter from Mr. Urmston, the chief of the British factory, 
together with a file of English newspapers, magazines, &c. which 
employed me till the 1st of July, when we were ready to sail. 

St. Peter and St. Paul's, the chief city of the peninsula of Kamt- 
chatka, contains forty-two dwellings, besides fifteen edifices be- 
longing to the government, an old church, and the foundation of a 
new one. Among the public buildings are to be reckoned maga- 
zines for bread, for powder, for sailors, for convicts, for wine, and 
for arms; a guard-house, smithy, hospital, chancery, school, and 
a building for the chief and his assistant. All, however, with 
the exception of the hospital, sailor's barracks, and school, are at 
best, like the rest of the city, emblems of misery and wretched- 
ness. I have never seen on the banks of the Frozen Sea so con- 
temptible a place, hardly meriting the name of a village, much 
less that of a city; yet such is the place which has been so eulo- 
gized from one end of the world to the other. The erection of 
hospitals, of schools, of churches, and the diffusion of happiness, 
have been extravagantly vaunted of in magazines and reviews, in 
defiance of the most lamentable facts of a very opposite descrip- 
tion. 

I cannot imagine what a governor has to do in such a place; a 
civil commissary would surely have been enough. The only peo- 
ple, in my opinion, who can be called happy, are the Koriaks, be- 
cause they are independent. The Russians complain of being 
sent to such a vile place, utterly destitute of society; the Creoles 
of their being kept in a state of poverty; while the Kamtchatdales 
bitterly lament the association with either the one or the other. 
It has been observed that St. Peter and St. Paul's can never be a 
good town, owing to its want of wood. It may be asked, why 
then was the seat of government rlmoved from a more eligible 



310 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON 

place, Nishney Kamtchat.sk, or why was it not removed to the 
centre of agriculture and population, so far as either can be said 
to exist? It has been already changed three times, and is, I be- 
lieve, destined to another removal. Kamtchatka neither can nor 
will thrive so long as its chiefs are sent for five years only: such a 
short period scarcely allows them the time of doing good, however 
well disposed they may be. The general mode of occupying the 
allotted term may be thus described. The first year is employed 
in looking about and forming plans for the improvement of ihe 
country, the amelioration of the condition of the aborigines, &c: 
the second year is passed in making reports, stating opinions, &c: 
the third year brings the reply of the government, directing or 
authorizing the mode of administration: the fourth is employed in 
preparing, or at most in acting upon such orders: while the fifth, 
and last year is generally employed in preparing to return to Europe, 
and levying a party contribution: — and thus the whole five years 
are, more or less, taken up in trading and accumulating as much 
money as possible. The very shortest term of a chief's command 
at Kamtchatka should be ten years: let him then only be liberally 
paid, and I will venture to say, that many suitable characters will 
be found, who will prefer to administer justice with clemency and 
honour, to the degrading of iheir characters by a mean and deroga- 
tory traffic. If an increase of rank, double pay and provisions, an 
extra pension, and the most unlimited powers are not sufficient to 
ensure a just discharge of the duties, what besides conscience ever 
can induce it? 

Of the Kurile Islands, though they are not now in the govern- 
ment of Kamtchatka, having been ceded by U>e Emperor in pro- 
perty to the American Company, I shall make but a very few re- 
marks, and with them close my observations on Kamtchatka. 

This chain of islands is divided between the Russian and 
Japanese empires; of those belonging to the former empire, but 



THE PENINSULA OF KAMTCHATKA. 311 

few are inhabited. The first Kurile, situate at sixty-five miles 
from Cape Lopatka, has three yourtes, with four males and eight 
females, nominally paying as tribute six sea-otters and twelve 
roubles in money; but, as no sea-otters are found, and the islands 
abound in foxes, seven of these are received in lieu of them. 
There is in the island a tolerable road-stead for small craft on the 
NW side. Immense quantities of waterfowl, as ducks, geese, 
and swans, frequent the place; and from the skins and feathers 
the inhabitants make their parkas and all their warm clothing, 
which are also exceedingly comfortable and beautiful. The cli- 
mate of the islands resembles that of St. Peter and St Paul's. 
The soil is generally good, producing fine pastures. On the first 
isle there was formerly an abundance of cattle, but now only two 
cows remain. 

The second island, about ninety miles from the first, has seven 
yourtes, with thirty-five males and forty-two females, paying 
tribute for itself and the fourteenth isle, nominally, thirty-five sea- 
otters; that is, twenty-three foxes and one hundred and fifty roubles. 
The fourteenth isle has three yourtes, fifteen males, and seventeen 
females. Of the intermediate islands, and those beyond the four- 
teenth, I could obtain but very little information; the whole are 
evidently volcanic productions, and are supposed to have been 
separated by some violent convulsion of nature from the peninsula 
of Kamtchatka. The islands, which are lofty and bold, are said 
to be without rivers, nor are there any harbours known It is to 
be remembered, however, that they have been but very imperfectly 
surveyed The inhabitants are supposed to be of the same origin 
as those of Kamtchatka, though they differ in the custom of wear* 
ing long beards, which was probably introduced among them by 
the Russians. Their dialect is the same with that of the inhabi- 
tants near Cape Lopatka; from whence baidares are frequently 
sent to the first and second isle, to bring the tribute and furs 



312 THE PENINSULA OP KAMTCHATKA. 

Foxes are said to be the only animals of the chase, and here they 
abound in all colours. Sea-otters were also formerly taken, and 
still, at intervals, visit some of the islands. Excepting those 
caught near Nishney Kamtchatsk, they are considered the most 
valuable of the species. <-s 



313 



CHAPTER XII. 

Departure from Kamtchatka — Re-arrival at Okotsk — Further Observations 
on that place — Bulgeine — The Udoma — Ouchakan — Anchekon Achan 
and Konkui Rivers — Chornoi Lass — Chakdalka — Chekinvio — The Aldan 
— Amgie — Lena — Rivers — Re-arrival at Yakutsk — General Observation 
on the Yakuti, and of their Metropolis. 

I remained in Kamtchatka eleven months, enjoying that hospi- 
tality and kindness which the chief so eminently possesses the 
means and manner of conferring. The vessel in which we pre- 
pared to return to Okotsk, was the same which brought me to 
Kamtchatka, but although she was ready in June it was not until 
the 5th of July, 1822, that the anchor was weighed, and with a 
light northern breeze we bade adieu to Kamtchatka. As we steer- 
ed along shore, the coast offered a lively verdant appearance, no 
snow being visible except on the elevated peaks. In five days we 
reached the latitude of Cape Lopatka, bearing West ten leagues. 
At the close of the day, when thus situated, and with a light air 
from the SE, the sky assumed an unusual fiery red, while the 
beautiful tinge on the dark fleeting clouds presented a mosi sublime 
aspect, though it evidently foreboded something awful. The con- 
stant changes in the appearance of the heavens over the high lands 
of Kamtchatka and the islands, reminded us of an aurora borealis, 
as this, as in the real aurora, had its fiery meteors moving about. 
By midnight the wind veered to SW by W, and ultimately settled 
in a heavy gale from the NW, the last being the scene of the 
Rr 



314 DEPARTURE 

most glowing part of the sky. An immense cloud of smoke had 
also been visible for a couple of days in the NNW direction. Be- 
fore our arrival at Okotsk it had been ascertained that a great part 
of the immense forests north of the bay of Avatcha had been 
destroyed, and that a severe concussion of the earth had taken 
place upon the day of the gale. Fortunately for us it was an off 
shore wind, or our destruction would have been inevitable. During 
the forty-eight hours that we were lying loo under bare poles, we 
were driven to the SE about one hundred and fifty miles, owing 
partly to the heavy sea which drove through the Kurile passages, 
and partly to a strong current which continually sets to the SE 
through the Lopatka Straits. It is this current which renders the 
passage to and from Okotsk much more tedious than it otherwise 
would be. The first, or Lopatka Channel, is now seldom or never 
attempted, owing to the repeated accidents which have happened 
to the transports. There is now an order from the Admiralty to 
the contrary, throwing the onus upon the officer in charge. The 
channel, as far as I am able to judge, is not half so dangerous nor 
so narrow as that of the Needles at the Isle of Wight. The whole of 
this hemisphere demands a surveying expedition, as well as practi- 
cal sailors to traverse it, for till then imaginary dangers will be 
shunned, while real ones remain unknown. 

Driven to the SE 4° of latitude as well as of longitude, we 
awaited a SE gale, when we were enabled, with good manage- 
ment, to run within a quarter of a mile of the breakers, though in 
the greatest danger of suffering shipwreck, which would, in such 
circumstances, have left no one alive to tell the dismal tale. The 
vessel was crowded with live lumber, men, women, and children, 
all with horror depicted upon their countenances Our situation 
was by no means pleasant. Our course was West, a heavy Ku- 
rilian fog attended us, we had already passed what appeared two 
islands, but which in fact were two hills on one island, Land 



FROM KAMTCHATKA. 315 

Was observable a-head, and we hauled up SW, going eight knots, 
and the spray at this time from the breakers within fifty yards of 
us. The gale veered to NE — observed the land again from SSW 
to W — hauled up SSE land still a-head, when from a hard gale 
and heavy sea it fell, almost miraculously, calm, and we found 
ourselves in smooth water. Fourteen feet were gained by the lead, 
and the anchor was thrown out with success. The night proved 
dark and dismal, yet we held on, in perfect ignorance of our si- 
tuation, latterly even the land was not visible though the breakers 
were. A small rock lay N by E, and a reef S by E, extending 
to SW. The surf from the island extended to WNW, leaving us 
only a west course in the event of any accident to our cables. The 
morning broke with a cloudless sky, and discovered our situation 
to have been such that nothing but the intervention of Providence 
could have saved a single life on board the vessel if the gale had 
continued. We had no alternative betwixt struggling through 
breakers, or being dashed to pieces against rocky precipices. 

The large bay into which we had been thus driven, is no where 
described in any chart, which is the more extraordinary, as it lies 
near the principal Kurile channel. It is to this hour unknown, 
for we did not survey it, although it has been passed within a few 
miles by the annual transports for the last hundred years. Our 
situation proved to be on the SE side of the third island, and S of 
a large bay in the centre. Four small rocky isles bore from N to 
NE i N, about a mile distant. A long reef had its extreme east 
point ENE about nine miles. The hollow in the centre of the 
isle bore NNW. And the eastern extreme of the southern shore, 
SE i S; while a sunken rock and bank was from us S by E about 
half a mile distant, consequently the main land ran from NE to 
SE round by the W. There was plenty of water for our vessel 
all round us: a clear channel lay round the rock to the S by E, 
and another to the west of the northern reef, distant from the main 



316 OKOTSK. 

land three miles. As we had come in, there must neeessarily be 
a passage out, and that passage I proposed as the most certain by 
which to get safely out. The latitude at noon, was 50° 26'. and 
the proper entrance to the bay is in that latitude between the long 
reef nine miles from the brig's then station, and the islands, haul- 
ing up to the south, and thus it may be made a safe bay. 

We hove short the anchor, and drove close to the breakers; let 
go a second anchor under foot, and at length, by casting the right 
way, made sail and cut away. The SE current, and the tardiness 
of the crew were still to be borne with as we passed parallel to 
the reef at fifty or sixty yards. We gained an offing and continued 
to beat about until the twentieth day from our leaving Avatcha: 
on that day we passed the third channel, but light easterly airs de- 
tained us till the twenty-fifth. On the thirty-third day we made 
the port of Okotsk, and reached the anchorage of the outer bay- 
On the thirty-fourth I landed in a tremendous surf at the risk of 
my life. I felt anxious to get ashore, and in spite of recalls and 
signals, passed safely through a surf which swallowed up six out 
of twelve of a boat that also subsequently attempted it; finding the 
surf near me I continued straight on, while the other boat attempt- 
ed to turn, and reaped the disastrous consequences. The chief of 
Kamtchatka with his family and my wife landed the following day 
upon the outer beach, and the brig on the third reached the harbour 
in safety. 

From this relation of my voyage I should feel greatly pleased if 
I could draw the attention of the Russian government to the pro- 
priety and necessity, not only of surveying generally the Kurile 
islands, but particularly those extending from Cape Lopatka to the 
latitude of 46°. It is within that compass that the transports from 
and to Okotsk and Kamtchatka pass the Kurile straits. I had oc- 
casion last year to notice, what I considered an error in the geo- 
graphical position of the third and fourth Kurile islands; this year 



OKOTSK. 3H 

I repeated my observations with somewhat more precision in con- 
sequence of the light airs and calms which attended us for some 
time. The latitude of the fifth island is certainly wrong: at noon 
on the 24th July, 0. S we were in latitude 49° 33', at which time 
the most northern part of the island bore W by N, at about four 
leagues; at the same time that the island lying to the westward of 
it was one point open to the north. This could not have been the 
case if the charts had been correct: every allowance for the error 
in Admiral Kruzensterne's chart may however be passed over in 
silence; as he did not survey this part, nor indeed any so far north. 

The second channel is certainly the preferable one when bound 
from Okotsk into the Eastern Ocean, because although it is form- 
ed by four islands, and is generally attended by fogs, it can always 
be run for, as a fair wind is a clear wind. Going, however, from 
Kamtchatka to Okotsk the third channel is the better, as it is form- 
ed by two lofty, though small islands, and has considerably less 
fog and current. Calms, or gales, heavy fogs, strong and change- 
able currents prevail in these seas, and render the navigation, in 
the hands of those generally employed, tedious and perilous; in- 
decision and incapacity marking every act. The government de- 
serve credit for their late liberality in settling the establishment 
of Okotsk, still, however, much remains to be done. The encour- 
agement held out to young officers to induce them to serve in this 
part of the world, is generous; but there is yet wanting encourage- 
ment to officers who are already initiated into the practical, as well 
as theoretical, part of a seaman's duty. As the case is, none but 
boys from the college are sent, who getting the command of a ves- 
sel before they have even been afloat, are obliged to confide in the 
under officers, and all subordination ceases, except that which is 
enforced by hasty punishment, for starting has found its way from 
the navy of England to that of the Eastern Ocean. 

Having once more reached the continental part of Asia, I began 



318 OKOTSK. 

to prepare for my journey to Yakutsk. In the mean time, every 
attention and kindness was renewed to me by my old friend the 
chief and his amiable lady. Many considerable additions and im- 
provements to the town and port of Okotsk had been made during 
my absence. The buildings belonging to the American Company 
had been transported from the ground on which they were con- 
structed to the new town, having been framed and prepared at the 
old town, on account of the proximity of the workmen, as well as 
the difficulty and danger in crossing the mouth of the harbour dur- 
ing summer. A new brig had been prepared, and was now ready 
to launch. Two large flats had been built for transporting flour 
across the bay. A sort of custom and warehouse had been erected 
for the use of the merchants, the receipts of which are given to the 
support of the poor, and two magnificent magazines, a post-house, 
and other buildings, together with five thousand large trees in the 
dock-yard, have been added through the activity of Captain Ushin- 
sky. I may confidently say that were the same industry and know- 
ledge to be continued in operation for five years longer, Okotsk 
would not cede in regularity, cleanliness, or durability of buildings, 
to any wooden town in Siberia except Barnaoule. 

It is a pity that a dry dock is not formed for laying up the trans- 
ports during the winter. The means are ample, the rise and fall 
of the regular tide very considerable, and the ultimate advantages 
are incalculable. The duty at the port is heavy, owing to a want 
of officers, artificers, and sailors. The correspondence with Ir- 
kutsk is enough for a government, much more for so small a place. 
Two vessels belonging to the American Company arrived during 
my stay in Okotsk, one in ballast, and the other almost empty, 
having but two thousand river otters on board. It is incompre- 
hensible why this body do not fit out small craft for the purpose 
of taking seals on and round the Isle of Ayon; its distance from 
Okotsk is about one hundred and fifty miles, and the interval 



BULGEINE. 319 

would, no doubt, be the most thriving scene of their adventures. 
Who is the director of the concern I know not, but am quite cer- 
tain that by visiting the establishment once in three years he might 
do much good, and prevent more robbery. 

Being fully prepared for my journey to Yakutsk, distant seven 
or eight hundred miles, we departed on the evening of the 27th of 
August, a very late period of the year, crossing the Great Bay and 
encamping for the night at Bulgeine, near the remains of an old 
hospital, then in a fine situation, but lately removed to a worse 
one, in the town. It ought, at least, to be still used for those that 
are in a convalescent state, having the advantage of a better air, 
some vegetables, and plenty of milk. The following morning our 
caravan amounted to near two hundred horses. I had thirteen 
besides a couple of tents, one for my guides and Cossack, the other 
for myself. Provisions were laid in for six weeks, as nothing is 
to be procured upon the road except flesh meat. My present situa- 
tion upon leaving Okotsk was too different from the last to escape 
my observation. Then I was wandering about alone, careless of 
the past, unconcerned for the future, and, like the brute creation, 
alive only to the present hour. Now, with a young wife to pro- 
tect through an execrable journey on horseback, %nd exposed to 
the severity of winter, I felt, and felt deeply, that prudence and 
foresight were peculiarly necessary. She, who had only seen three 
or four horses in her life, was consequently not a little terrified; 
but what wili not perseverance overcome? The difficulties she en- 
countered in this and the subsequent journeys were such as would 
have shaken the most robust, and bore very hard upon her delicate 
frame. 

From Bulgeine we made ten miles, halting on the banks of the 
Okota. Our route thence lay over a well wooded, but swampy 
country. At thirty miles, we parted from the amiable chief of 
Kamtchatka, who was about to return to the Peninsula in compa- 



320 KRESTOVA. 

ny with his successor, agreeably to orders from Saint Petersburg, 
The third day we reached Meta on the Okota, and I enjoyed highly 
the very fine scenery about it. On the fourth day, what with ris- 
ing late and halting early for the accommodation of the ladies, of 
whom there were six in our caravan, we made but twenty miles, 
and encamped upon the banks of the Urak, which I shall remem- 
ber equally with the Arko; the former for endangering the life of 
my wife, and the latter, of my own. My wife had a good horse, 
but had imprudently exchanged it to try a second, and a worse. 
She was thrown with such violence as to lie for twelve hours 
senseless and speechless; but thanks to Providence and to two sons of 
iEsculapius, who were journeying with us, she recovered in a great 
degree, though she has ever since been liable to a pain in the right 
temple. The next forenoon we resumed our journey along a pic- 
turesque valley, watered by the Urak, which we forded nine times 
in a distance of forty miles. The country, like the numerous 
islands in the river, was well covered with poplars and birches, 
intermixed with larches. The number of rivers and branches of 
Fivers that are forded and passed upon the journey from Yakutsk 
to Okotsk is quite inconceivable. Captain Minitsky told me there 
were not less Aan a thousand. 

We now got into the land of wild berries, especially of currants; 
the tracks of bears and wolves were also discernible. We passed 
the half-way house to Krestova, and following a route through a 
forest of fine timber, pitched our tents, and received the first real 
salutation of winter in a heavy fall of snow: this was on the se- 
cond of September. Thus in one short night, from the beauties 
of autumn, we were involved in the dreariness of winter. The 
following, a tremendous stormy day, we made, with great difficulty, 
twenty miles, and reached a halting-place half frozen, and more 
than half drowned, from the frequent necessity of fording lakes 
and rivers. Our halting-place was near a deep swamp, which 



UDOMA CROSS. 321 

was perilously waded by ihe whole party. The weather next day 
was such, that we remained in our tents, and employed ourselves 
in drying our clothes, &c. after which we bade adieu to the Uiak, 
which rises not far hence, and falls into the sea of Okotsk, not far 
south of the city, at the salt-work establishment. We reached, in 
a hard frost, the river Udoma, where we were detained, owing to 
the late suows and rains having swollen the river to an unusual 
size. I had succeeded in crossing, but my horse not being in a 
condition to take me back, I could not return, and was thus cut 
off from the rest of the parly for the night. An axe being always 
suspended from my saddle, and a flint and steel being always round 
my waist, I made a good fire, and passed the night as well as could 
be expected. At the halting-place we met with a priest going to 
Okotsk; he had been forty-six days upon the road, owing to the 
overflowed state of the country. There are times when seventy 
and even eighty days are necessary to perform the journey, the 
rate of progress being confined to five and six miles a day. 

With much labour, and considerable apprehension on the part 
of the women, we crossed the Udoma, my wife being towed over 
the stream on horseback hy two Yakut guides. Seven miles be- 
yond, we reached Udoma Cross, where an under officer of the 
Cossacks resides, with a few Yakoti; the station serves Tor a post- 
house, has also a magazine of flour, and the person in charge has 
the command of a great number of Yakuti. Its situation is bleak 
and exposed, but is advantageous on account of the fish and game, 
as w T ell as from having the most beautiful pastures in its neighbour- 
hood. From Udoma Cross there is a water communication to 
Yakutsk, by means of the Udoma, which falls into the Aldan; the 
latter of which ultimately enters the Lena. This aquatic com- 
munication is not much attended to as formerly, when all the stores 
for Captains Behring's and Billing's expedition were thus forward- 
ed with success. It would seem that the Russian government are 
Ss 



OUTCHAKAN. 

not now so forward as formerly in patronizing wafer communica- 
tions. The whole distance from Yakutsk to Okoisk might be ac- 
complished by large canoes, except the passage of one chain of 
mountains which confine the Arko, a large stream uniting with 
the Okola. The whole distance from hence to the Aldan by the 
Udoma is six hundred miles, while the direct course is about one 
hundred and eighty; the voyage is, however, performed in five or 
six days. 

We procured at Udoma a supply of fresh meat and wild berries, 
and having fed the horses well and rested them for a couple of days, 
we resumed the journey towards Alack Youna, a distance of one 
hundred and thirty miles, part of which lay over half frozen rivers 
and swamps, along a picturesque valley. The first day our party 
lost three horses by excess of fatigue, and from the ice giving way 
under them. The country was well wooded, and as we continued, 
some tall firs were seen mixed with the larches and alders. We 
continued along the valley, making from fifteen to thirty-five miles 
per day. The cold had increased to 6° of Reaumur. The fif- 
teenth day we reached the Outchakan. Our halting place com- 
manded a most magnificent panorama of mountain-scenery: the 
river branched out into numerous shallow channels, whose rip- 
pling, joined to the murmur of the wind against the trees, adds a 
pensive air to the sublimity of the scene. The hills rise one 
above another in a regular succession to a great height, and the 
whole appears one of the most secluded and desolate spots I have 
ever witnessed. In so cold a place I never saw so much and such 
fine timber, which, lying at the foot of the hills and in the numerous 
valleys, and gradually diminishing as they reach the more exposed 
places, give an air of picturesque beauty, seldom to be met with 
in so high a latitude. All was still, save the murmur of the waters 
and of the trees; not a voice was to be heard, nor a creature to be 
seen, but of our own party; no fire, not even a charity yourte — in 

\ 



ALACK YOUNA. 32$ 

short, nothing to greet the arrival of the weary traveller in a spot 
where eternal winter reigns. A cold north wind for ever sweeps 
through the valley, destroying almost every species of vegetation: 
and such is the extreme rigor of the climate, that solid massive ice 
is to be seen even in the months of July and August. When we 
crossed the centre of the valley and the river, the 1 thermometer 
stood at 16° of Reaumur's frost, and the ice banks on the river 
were twenty and twenty-four inches thick. To the religious or 
philosophic mind this may be a safe retreat, the cares of the world 
being certainly far removed from it, as during nine months in the 
year nothing but a monthly post Cossack comes within some miles 
of it. We lost four horses from ihe effects of the frost, and re- 
sumed the journey as we could, along a succession of valleys for 
twenty miles, when we hailed at the foot of a tremendous ravine 
formed by two high mountainous precipices. We lost five more 
horses, though good pasture was to be had, every thing bearing the 
most wintry appearance. 

Henceforth our progress became tedious, uncertain, and very 
laborious, as the remaining horses were so heavily laden. We 
entered the next day on the valley and river of Anchekon amidst 
much snow, but in warmer weather. On the 13th (25lh) Septem- 
ber, w r e crossed an elevated chain of hills, whose precipitous or 
steep ascents gave us much trouble; these hills separate the two 
governments of Yakutsk and Okotsk. We reached the river 
Achan, which falls into the Youna, receiving also the Anchekon, 
and ultimately all uniting in the Aldan, Lena, and frozen sea. It 
was late when we reached the post station, called Alack Youna, 
having come twenty-five miles of most execrable road. 

The country now assumed a more lively and picturesque ap- 
pearance. Lofty ranges of table lands superseded the conical or 
triangular mountains, a noble pasture plain lay before us, and 
abundance of timber and hay-stacks were every where to be seen, 



324 THE KONKUJ. 

This is indeed an eligible place for a past-house, which is estab- 
lished on the left, or south bank of the river. We staid two days 
fo refresh man and beast, and on the 15th (27th) reached at fifteen 
miles a narrow defile, where we ascended and descended six steep 
and dangerous hills, after which we halted on the banks of the 
Konkui, which also unites with the Aldan. Rising early the fol- 
lowing morning we made thirty miles, fifteen of which were along 
a narrow and deep ravine, and the other half over three steep and 
lofty mountain passes, the summits of which afforded a most ex- 
tensive but-dreary prospect. The thermometer at the most eleva- 
ted point stood at 12° of frost. Having crossed the mountains we 
reached the land of evergreens — the pine, and fir: an agreeable 
relief to eyes which had so long dwelt on nothing but desolation. 
Leaving the Konkui to the right, along the banks of which is the 
proper route, we crossed at ten miles an elevated mountain range. 
We had adopted this route in consequence, of the lateness of the 
season, but there are in (hat river forty-six places to be forded, a 
task which our horses, in their present state, could not perform. 
We made near thirty miles, but the baggage did not arrive until 
midnight, twenty three horses being knocked up, and six more 
having dropped dead on the road. I could not but pity the dis- 
tress of the poor Yakuti, at being thus compelled to forsake their 
favourite cattle. 

We met the post from Yakutsk, and in the course of an hour 
more we were overtaken by that from Okotsk: the latter had been 
encountered by a bear, which had destroyed most of the letters 
and papers. The journal of Captain VassilierT's Expedition, in 
particular, had suffered much. There was also a considerable 
sum of paper money in the post, but this happily escaped injury. 
We reached Tchornoi Liess, or Black Wood, the following day. 
The road was at first along the little river Chakdalka, and then 
on the White River, both uniting with the Aldan, until we reached 

% 



CHEKONOt. 325 

Chekonoi, or the Weeping Country, so called from the Yakuti 
losing so many horses in its swampy and half frozen marshes: out 
of my thirteen four were knocked up. The pasture is good, but 
the horses treading it are embayed in the deep swampy part so 
long, that the frost fastening on and penetrating their i~ee\, causes 
their certain death. The stench from the dead carcases is at 
times distinctly perceptible, and the carcases of the numerous 
horses thus frozen attracts many bears to the place. At Black 
Wood there is a post-house, magazine for flour, and three youries. 
In an open country fifty miles from the Aldan. 

From this great loss of horses I was obliged to forward my wife 
on in charge of the Cossack, and remain to bring up the baggage, 
and bay or exchange horses as could best be done, for the benefit 
of my Yakuti. I remained for thirty-sis hours bargaining, and 
at lengh having procured three fresh horses, overtook the party 
before they reached the Aldan. The last twenty-five miles is 
over a continual wooden causeway, in many parts in so wretched 
a condition that it is dangerous for horses to go by it; the country 
was a most dreary, low, swampy and brush wood place. A good 
ferry the next day took us across the Aldan at a part which is three 
quarters of a mile broad. Afterwards over a well wooded and 
picturesque country we reached a most comfortable yourte, twenty- 
five miles beyond the river. We now began to feel the effects of 
fatigue and cold, and continual exposure to the open air. When I 
say we, I should except myself, for I never was better or more 
contented, but 1 considered the situation of the females on horse- 
back with 15° to 18° of frost, without a hut or covering to receive 
them, and passing the night in the snow, as no ordinary circum- 
stances. To me a tent has less of pleasantness, than the open 
air, and I preferred lying down to windward of a fire, changing 
sides as one became frozen or the other roasted. The season was, 
however, so far advanced, that we apprehended the danger of 



326 AMGHA. 

being detained on the right bank of the Lena for a month or more; 
it was therefore resolved to push on. 

From the Aldan the country becomes a fine and open park-sce- 
nery; many interesting prospects strike the attention of the tra- 
veller, and the quantity of cattle is a sensible relief. We reached, 
and were ferried over the Amgha, a large stream uniting with the 
Aldan. Passing many lakes, abounding with a small but delicious 
carp, we reached on the third day a post-house, where we pro- 
cured kibitkis. The severe frost and heavy falls of snow, com- 
bined with the flatness of the country over which our future track 
lay, rendered the journey more expeditious and agreeable; and 
we were enabled to reach two stations, or forty miles, over a coun- 
try not unaptly termed, as far as regards scenery, the Siberian 
Caucases; for, although not so elevated, the scenery is most ro- 
mantic, and carries with it many rural charms not to be looked 
for in such a part of the world. The inhabitants I found at every 
part of my journey civil, obliging, and hospitable; and if we met 
one who was knowing, cunning or knavish, and accused of being 
such, he would readily retort by asking, Who taught the Yakuti 
to be knaves? 

Horses had now become so scarce, that our baggage was drawn 
by oxen. For my own share, out of thirteen horses, only one 
was able to reach Yakutsk. I mention the circumstance, that my 
readers may be fully aware what a terrible undertaking it is for 
the traveller, and what a cruel one upon the unhappy Yakut and 
still more unhappy horse. 

The forty miles we made the following day, placed within our 
reach a flour magazine, a grog-shop, and a pedler's stali. There 
are many Yakuti settled in the neighbourhood, abundance of 
horned cattle are every where to be seen, and the quantity of hay 
collected for them is prodigious. We had now but eighty miles 
left, forty of which were accomplished on the 27th of September, 



CHARACTER, ETC. OF THE YAKUTI. 327 

0. S. over a low, flat, swampy country, after which through a 
crowded forest, we reached the banks of the Lena. The latter 
part of this day's journey reminded me of Old England, the very 
regular fences and hedges presenting an appearance of economy 
and thrift which I had not witnessed for a long time. Upon the 
first of October we reached the city of Yakutsk at a time that the 
river was almost impassable from the quantity of heavy floating 
ice. Good and comfortable quarters had been prepared for me 
through the kindness of the chief who had recently arrived. I 
discharged my Yakut i, well satisfied wi\h their conduct, although 
two of them and the Cossack managed to consume, independent 
of four quarters of their ox beef and one horse, which was killed, 
six poods of beef, or near four hundred weight. It may not be 
improper in this stage to give some idea of the character of the 
Yakuti, and of their numbers. 

They are evidently of Tartar origin, as their language is un- 
derstood by the Tartars of Kazan. Their complexion is a light 
copper colour; they are generally of low stature, with more regu- 
lar and pleasing features, than the Tongousi: they are more hospi- 
table, good tempered and orderly, but neither so honest nor so in- 
dependent; they have a servility, a tameness, and a want of cha- 
racter which assimilates them, in some measure, to the despicable 
Kamtchatdales. The more a Yukut is beaten, the more he will 
work: touch a Tongoose, and no work will be got from him. 
The Yakuti are very ingenious, and excellent mechanics; they 
make their own knives, guns, kettles, and various iron utensils. 
They are patient under fatigue, and can resist great privations. 
They are, like the Tongousi, great gluttons, but subsist mostly 
upon horse flesh; a mare being considered by them as the greatest 
delicacy; but never slaughtered except in sacrifice to a Shamane, 

Their riches consist in large herds of horses and horned cattle, 
besides an abundance of the finest and most valuable furs, Thev 



328 CHARACTER, ETC. 

also carry on a considerable trade among themselves, and some of 
their princes are immestly rich, doing business to the amount of 
one hundred and fifty thousand roubles a year, and yet living in 
the same misery as iheir servants, sleeping in the same apartment 
which perhaps contains forty or fifty people. Their dress differs 
little from that of the neighbouring tribes, being made of rein- 
deer skins for the rich, and horses 1 bides for the poorer class. 
Many of them still subsist entirely on fishing and hunting. Their 
greatest luxuries are tea, tobacco, and spirits. They sit crossed 
legged. The greater part of them are converted to Christianity, 
and the clergymen in many places deliver their sermons in the 
Yakut dialect. Indeed so fashionable is it, that, in the best soci- 
ety at Yakutsk, the Yakut dialect is used for all private conversa- 
tion, or in the presence of an European officer. 

Their yourtes are comfortable, and upon the arrival of a guest are 
made as clean as clean straw can make them; in other respects they 
are disgusting enough, being but too frequently filled with ver.min. 
Their yourtes differ from all the others I have seen, consisting of 
one large apartment and a cow-house adjoining. The mode of 
constructing their dwellings is as follows: nine posts are driven 
into the ground in the form of a square, the three in the centre 
being higher than the others; on these posts they lay three beams, 
while the four corner posts are connected by two other cross 
beams. Stout planks are then placed sloping from the earth to 
the horizontal beams to which they are fastened, while other 
planks are also laid sloping from the upper part of the roof to the 
side-posts, overlapping the others. Grass, mould, and dung, are 
then plastered over them in lieu of caulking, and the walls are 
banked up with the same materials, fenced in during winter. The 
heat in the yourte is preserved by means of the snow, which be- 
comes hardened to such a degree as to resist the fire and smoke 



OP THE YAKUT!. 32$ 

from the chimney, blocks of ice are placed in the sides of the 
windows, and give a clear transparent light; though sometimes 
bladders or oiled paper, as well as a particular species of a fossil, 
called Vitrum Ruthenicum Maria, glass, or talc, serve for the 
same purpose. Three sides of the interior are divided into parti- 
tions, two or three living in each, according to the size of the fa- 
mily, and are used as bed places; they are three or four feet wide 
and ten long. In the centre is the hearth and chimney, formed 
by upright slicks, plastered on the inside. The wood is placed in 
an upright direction on the hearth, and the fire is kept up con- 
stantly day and night. The state apartment, and of course that 
occupied by the chief guest, is the farlhest from the door, and im- 
mediately under the image. The odour from the cow-house, al- 
though disagreeable, is considered very healthy, and far preferable 
to mixing with thirty or forty people, whose stench and filth are in- 
conceivable. With only a few inmates and additional cleanliness, 
I consider a Yakut dwelling to be extremely convenient and pe- 
culiarly fresh and wholesome. Their kitchen utensils are not nu- 
merous; a large iron kettle or boiler, a large tea-kettle, and a few 
wooden bowls and spoons, with still fewer earthern jars, and a 
knife for each person, constitute the whole. The richer Yakut 
may have a samavar or tea-urn, and perhaps in such case a tea- 
pot also, but in general the tea is made in the kettle. They use 
no plates, but taking a large piece of beef in their left hand, they 
secure it with their teeth, and then cut away as much with the 
right as will fill the mouth; some warm melted butter finishes the 
repast, when the pipe and tobacco come in as a dessert. 

The population of the government of Yakutsk, as appears 

Tt 



336 CHARACTER, ETCv 

by the official return, is as follows:— In the circle or commissa* 
riat of 

Jlfales. Females. 

Yakutsk .--..-...- 42,853 44,195 

The Kolyma -..----. 2,384 2,155 

Villuifsky 17,477 17,419 

Zaslriversky - 5,168 4,901 

Olekminsk - - - - - -':.*"' - - - 4,539 4,443 

Convicts and white people, &c. in the different commis- 
sariats 23,230 19,905 



95,651 93,016 
Total 188,667 

Of these probably about one hundred and thirty thousand are Ya~ 
kuti, the rest Tongousi, or Lamutki, and Russians. 

Again settled in Yakutsk, I had time to walk about and see al 
that is worth seeing; if my former opinion of it was bad, it is now 
worse. The only alteration being that some of the churches and 
the monastery have been white washed. There are about a dozen 
respectable looking houses, the inmates of which are not even on 
speaking terms with one another. The little charm there was in 
the society of the place during the reign of Captain Minitsky is 
now entirely dissipated. There is now no difference betwixt fast 
and feast days, and the number of the parties and opinions in the 
city is almost equal to that of the inhabitants. Captain Minitsky 
kept a liberal table, and furnished every possible incentive to so- 
ciety. He was altogether the proper chief for the cify of Yakutsk. 
The present amiable governor is a widower, a circumstance which 
cannot fail of rendering him unpopular with the fair sex, which 
includes a great number of sprightly and handsome girls. Proba- 
bly no place has better means for forming agreeable evening par- 
ties than Yakutsk, and yet it seems that the envy and jealousy en- 
tertained against individual members of each other's families, is so 
prevalent, that one merchant will not associate with another; all 
seems distrust and intrigue — each aiming to become the chief's 



OF THE YAKUTI. 331 

favourite merchant, for upon that circumstance much consequence 
is attached. The number and the wealth of the principal inhabit- 
ants is such that a chief by a wise, liberal, and independent policy, 
may amass a very considerable fortune. It is not long since that a 
governor kept open house: his table was at all times laid for twenty, 
and the evenings were passed at cards and billiards. No Yakut 
from a distant village entered his house without receiving his day's 
food, a dram, a pound of tobacco, and a night's lodging. The re- 
sult was, that when his birth or saint's day arrived, the merchants 
and Yakut princes agreed that he had a noble heart, that he spent 
more money than he received, and that therefore it was necessary 
to reimburse him, and instead of receiving twelve or fifteen thou- 
sand roubles worth of skins upon the day of his feast, he received 
probably forty thousand; and by these spontaneous offerings of the 
inhabitants, he is said to have gone away the richest chief ever 
known. His name I shall not consider myself at liberty to men?- 
tion, as I believe he is still living. 

Nothing noticeable occurred to us here, with the exception of a 
few visits I made to the chief, and also to Mrs Rikord, in whose 
company we had come from Okotsk. She resided with a Mr. 
Paul Berezin, the most liberal and agreeable man in the city, 
from whom I received every attention. 



333 



CHAPTER XIII, 

Departure from Yakutsk — Tastakinskoi — Olekma — Berezova — Vittim— 
Kirenga — Kachouga — Bratsky Steppe— Verkholensk — Re-arrival at Ir 
kutsk — The Angara River — The Baikal Lake — Verchey Udinsk — Selen- 
ginsk, and the Missionary station at that place. 

In this inert state I passed two heavy months at Yakutsk. The 
cold latterly became severe, the thermometer falling to 32° and 35" 
of Reaumur, yet never so low as to compel me to put on more 
than my ordinary clothing, consisting of shoes, worsted stockings, 
coat, waistcoat, trowsers, and hat. While others wore caps, warm 
boots, cloaks, and mittens, I even went without gloves. My time 
was principally employed in preparing a vehicle to enable me to 
reach Irkutsk when the Lena should become bearable. The first 
sledges which left the city were those of a lieutenant of the navy, 
of ihe name of Novos'iltsoff. He departed on the 12th of Novem- 
ber, and I on the fifteenth. It was considered very late in compa- 
rison with other years, when the Lena is generally frozen so as to 
allow of travelling on the 1st of November. 

The first twenty-four hours I reached Tastakinskoi, one hundred 
and twenty, and Kiesick the following day, one hundred miles. 
The road proved very bad, otherwise it is no uncommon thing in 
this part of the world to traverse three hundred and sixty or three 
hundred and eighty versts, i. e. more than two hundred miles a 
day. Indeed it is a well known fact that in the winter season (he 
present Emperor takes but forty-two or forty-three hours in travel- 
ling from St, Petersburg to Moscow, a distance of about four hun- 



OLEKMA. 33S 

tired and twenty miles. The scenery had little or no interest. 
There occurred some parhelia, or mock suns, but they were faint. 
The cause of this phenomena I do not pretend to understand, but 
it seems to me to be a double reflection from the effects of the 
atmosphere* The weather during such phenomena, I have re- 
marked to be very cold, very clear, and the atmosphere filled with 
small crystal spiculae. I am not aware that parhelia are ever seen 
at sea in the high latitudes, but if so, it cannot be from the effects 
of snow. Many parhelia have also been visible in England at a 
time when there was no snow. I should conceive hence, that 
from whatever cause the phenomena may spring, it must be the 
same which discovers to us the sun, when beneath the horizon, and 
this I should term reflection, rather than refraction. 

Upon the fourth day I reached Olekma, four hundred miles, and 
for a trifling sum exchanged vehicles, mine having become injured, 
Situated at the foot of an elevated range of hills, the town of Olek- 
ma, at the conflux of two streams, has an interesting appearance. 
The inhabitants are employed in fishing, hunting, and trade. The 
weather thus far had much favoured us, the thermometer never 
having exceeded 20°, while at Yakutsk we had once 35°. Much 
snow fell the following day, in which we reached one hundred and 
twenty miles, passing through the little village of Berezova, which 
is the most northern on the Lena, producing rye-flour. We reach- 
ed Jerbat the following day, and again ascended the hill to view 
the cave; the fatigue necessary to ascend this short precipice was 
such, and the effects of the cold from the cave upon my perspira- 
tion so great, that I was obliged to desist from the attempt I had 
contemplated, viz. to furnish myself with a firebrand, and be 
lowered down into it by a rope. The road hence became very 
narrow and bad, so much so, that the lower part of the carriages 
were twice broken and exchanged. So slight, however, is the 
consequence of such a circumstance that three shillings is sufficient 



334 VITTIM. 

to procure a complete refit. The stages uporl approaching Vittim 
are too heavy and long, the horses have to go from thirty to forty 
miles: but what must be the suffering of the driver in a frost of 30° 
*o 45°, even in a perfect calm? The speed of travelling is so great 
that the mere act of passing through the atmosphere is insufferable; 
he risk of travelling is thus considerably increased, as the drivers 
cannot look before them, but are obliged to turn their heads and 
let the horses go at will. There is no difference between passing, 
at a rapid rate, through a clear and still atmosphere, and through 
a sharp wind at a slow one. In general my drivers arrived frost- 
bitten, and in some instances severely so. 

Upon the 22d November, 0. S. I reached Vittim, the half-way 
house to Irkutsk, celebrated for producing the finest sables in the 
world. I have seen a pair sold for twenty pounds; those, however, 
are of the first quality, too scarce to allow many people to have 
cloaks of them, even if they inclined to go to the expense. There 
is also an inconceivable difficulty in selecting one hundred sables 
of the same size and colour, as is requisite to form a handsome 
cloak; probably ten thousand would be necessary. A cloak of the 
kind would then be worth at least twenty thousand roubles, or one 
thousand pounds. From Vittim we encountered very severe 
weather, the thermometer varying from 32° to 38°; the roads were 
however good, and our daily route was about one hundred miles. 
The days were passed in the most dreary and monotonous man- 
ner; even the celebrated Cheeks of the Lena afforded no interest 
at this season. These are cliffs upon each side of the Lena be- 
tween Kirenga and Vittim, which seem to have been severed from 
each other by some convulsion of nature, and present a remarkable 
appearance. We generally halted at eight in the morning to boil 
a kittle for tea, which, with some hard bread and dried fish, con- 
stituted our breakfast. Our dinner was also of tea, and supper 
only varied from breakfast in the addition of some stewed beef: 



KIRENGA. 335 

these were the only intervals which we took for rest. I found by 
experience that my wife could bear the fatigue of the journey bet- 
ter than myself, therefore I was unwilling to lengthen the time for 
my own personal convenience. 

Upon the 25th November, we entered the government of 
Irkutsk, and although we were now with little or no moon, we 
were still enabled to continue the journey by night, as at every 
twenty or thirty yards, small branches of trees or bushes are plac- 
ed, whose green foliage contrasting with the snow, serves to di- 
rect the driver. There is moreover but one path, on each side 
of which the ice lies in large masses, thrown in every direction by 
the force or rippling of the current. 

I reached Kirenga on the twelfth day of our departure, on the 
last stage to which I overtook a doctor and the clerks of the 
American Company, who preferred sleeping, to the passage of one 
dangerous stage in the night. Lieutenant Novosiltsoffhad written 
upon the walls of the post-house, that the ne plus ultra of bad roads 
was at hand; my friends were in great apprehension of these dan- 
gers, till I observed that Lieutenant Novosiltsoff would hardly re- 
turn by such a bad road merely to advise others, and therefore 
unless he did so, he could not have written what bore bis name. 
Jt was late when I arrived, but as they persisted in remaining, I 
thought no time was to be lost in keeping the advantage of being 
a-head, aware as I was, that Mrs. Rikord was close behind us, 
with a superior power to procure horses. The station proved no 
farther dangerous than that the ice was only about three or four 
inches thick. It cracked as we slid along it, but no accideat hap- 
pened. 

At Kirenga I was detained twelve hours, owing to the chiefs of 
the three departments having kept up Saturday night rather merrily, 
so as not to be able to enter my passport in the book for that purpose, 
or to enable me to proceed without it Kirenga is one of those 



336 NEIGHBOURHOOD OP KIRENGA. 

few places thus misgoverned, although the town-major is a good 
sort of a man when sober. He called upon me afterwards, and 
seemed inclined to be angry with and to report the secretary of the 
post-master for giving me and my wife an asylum in a warm apart- 
ment of the post-office, contrary to regulations, but which in fact 
the secretary had taken upon himself to do, with the most humane 
consideration, seeing the incapability of his chiefs to provide us 
either with passports, horses or lodgings. On his coming to his 
senses, I made no other remonstrance with him than merely saying 
that he might save himself the trouble, as I should take especial 
care to represent the whole transaction to the governor-general. 
Kirenga is a dear place: meat twelve shillings and bread two, for 
thirty-six pounds, and fish, and animals of the chase, both scarce. 
It serves, however, to keep up the communication with Yakutsk, 
as well as to enable it to be said that there are two towns on the 
Lena! — which runs a course of three thousand miles. 

From Kirenga a fine road and good horses enabled us to extend 
our daily progress to one hundred and fifty miles. On the second 
day after leaving it I was favoured, for the last time, with parhelia, 
in a much more beautiful and singular manner than any I had be- 
fore witnessed, and shall endeavour to describe them. There 
were three mock suns, one on each side, and of the same altitude 
as the real sun, and a very faint one just over it, at the same per- 
pendicular distance above the real sun, as that was above the 
horizon. The mock suns, east and west of the real one, for it was 
near noon, bore a fiery red appearance upon those parts nearest to 
the real sun, while the outer edges of them were gradually shaded 
to a whitish colour. A slightly curved line of light connected the 
parhelia, passing through the centres to the horizon, and form- 
ing the figure of a rainbow, the sun being in the centre of the 
arch. 



X 



BRATSKY STEPPE. 



/c"\ 



337 



A 



ii 



JE H G F 

The reader will observe that the distance from A to I, from A 
to C, from B to G, and from D to H appeared to be equal; but 
from A to D and from A to B much greater; the latter being the 
cause of the rainbow assuming an oval appearance. The strength 
of the rays from the real sun was very great; and I could only re- 
gret that the subsequent part of my journey, lying along a narrow 
defile of mountains, obstructed the view of so interesting a pheno- 
menon. The weather was very cold, with a cloudless sky. The 
wind, or rather the light air, was from the SSW. 

Upon the third day, after leaving Kirenga, I reached Kachouga, 
and then passing through the large and populous village of Verk- 
holensk, and a beautiful country, producing some good corn and 
more hay, we reached the Bratsky Steppe or desert. Civility and 
hospitality upon this part of the road are carried even to excess. — 
1 found the elders of the villages ready to show me every attention, 
and even begging me to pass a night in their comfortable isbas, or 
dwellings. The country abounds in cattle of all descriptions pe- 
culiar to this northern part of the world, and the settlements may 
be termed very rich. At Verkholensk I bade a perpetual adieu to 
the Lena; and although without a moon, traversed the Bratsky 
Steppe, during the night, without any difficulty, mounds of earth 
being thrown up at every fifty or sixty yards, in which is placed a 
post, chequered black and white, or a black post with a white head. 
Both are termed, I think very undeservedly, Paul's folly: they are 
very useful to travellers, and are worthy to be well spoken of. 
The post-houses now became far superior to any we had passed 
Uu 



IRKUTSK. 

farther to the north, and more respectful attendance was shown us 
at every place as we approached the capital, a fact certainly in di- 
rect contradiction to general observation and experience. 

Passing over the Bratsky Sieppe, we met immense herds of 
horses and horned cattle, who stopped, and even approached to 
gaze at us as we galloped over the theatre of their independent 
evolutions. Upon the morning of the 17th day we reached Irkutsk 
in time to breakfast with my old friend Captain Koutigin,the chief 
of the navy at this port. After breakfast I presented myself to his 
excellency the governor, Tzedler, who not only proffered the same 
attentions and assistance as before, but also insisted upon my ac- 
cepting apartments in his elegant and hospitable mansion, appro- 
priated to the residence of the governor. I felt truly grateful for 
this last act of kindness, as the elegant accomplishments of his lady, 
his sister, and his daughter, were such as not only make them mo- 
dels for imitation in Siberia, but ensure them the respect of the 
first circles. I felt that my wife, young and ignorant of the world, 
could not fail, in their society, to acquire many of those little name- 
less graces, so necessary to form the female character. 

In company with my hospitable and excellent host, I waited 
upon the governor-general, Mr. Lavinsky. I was received with 
much hospitality and friendship, and was promised every assist- 
ance in the furtherance of my views; and having expressed a de- 
sire to visit Nertchinsk and Kiakhta before I returned to Europe, 
his Excellency kindly granted the permission. I did not expect 
so much good fortune; I did not think that a second Speranski was 
sent to be governor general, but I found that Mr. Lavinsky pos* 
sessed great goodness of heart, and an equal degree of amiability, 
although perhaps less commanding talents; because I believe there 
are few to be found equal to those of Mr. Speranski, whose con- 
descending kindness to me was brought more forcibly to my re- 
collection by His Excellency's introducing me to a Mr. Strannack, 



IRKUTSK. 359 

who is distantly related to him, and with whom t enjoyed many 
pleasant hours. His Excellency, Mr. Speranski, married a niece 
of that much respected gentleman, Mr. Planta, of the British Mu- 
seum. Mr. Strannack was about to inspect the post-offices in the 
governments of Irkutsk and Yakutsk, beginning with the circles of 
Nertchinsk and Selenginsk, which latter places I was also desirous 
of visiting; we therefore agreed to travel together, having previ- 
ously obtained the consent of a Mr. Yakobleff, the chief of this in- 
specting commission, whom I found an agreeable and amiable com- 
panion, and related to the most commercial, enterprising, and 
wealthy merchants of that name. 

The season for commencing this journey was, however, distant 
some weeks, as it was not yet possible to cross the Baikal, much 
less the Angara, neither of which are considered passable before 
the 1st (or 10th) of January. We therefore continued to enjoy 
the comforts of Irkutsk, in the same liberal and hospitable manner 
as I had done upon my outward journey. The public balls had 
fallen off, but were more than compensated by the private ones 
given at the houses of five or sis individuals. There was, how- 
ever, a masquerade ball which went off well, as also two or three 
others in the assembly rooms. The Maslenitza or carnival was a 
time of much amusement, and many well dressed characters went 
from house to house, I of course among the merriest if not the best 
drest. Thus our time passed in a most agreeable manner. 

The Angara ceased to roll its waters upon the 1st (18th) of Ja- 
nuary— that is, the road was declared open on that day, rather 
earlier than is usual, the 10th (22d) being the time that the mer- 
chants commence their journey to Kiakhta. The small quantity 
of water in the river this year will sufficiently account for the dif- 
ference. Much mischief is at times occasioned by the heavy swell- 
ings of the river previous to its being frozen. The ice crumbles 
up to a great height, and threatens destruction to the houses upon 



340 IRKUTSK. 

the beach. There is a peculiar quality attending the Angara, the 
water of which in summer is so col.cl, that the thermometer in June 
was but one degree above the zero of Reaumur, and in winter the 
warmest, as also the most rapid of all the rivers in this part of the 
world. The water is considered as unwholesome, the inhabitants 
preferring that of the Ushakofsky, which passes near to the Admi- 
ralty, and which water is said to be ^ heavier than that of the 
Angara, the rapidity of which is such, that immense sheets of ice 
are carried under water; and although during the last six weeks, 
the thermometer had seldom been above 30° of Reaumur, it was 
still impassable. 

The situation of this thriving city has already been pointed out, 
and the beauty of its position is evident. It is only by supposing 
it to stand on very elevated ground, that we can account for such 
severe frosts as visit it. The latitude is but little north of London r 
yet are the people obliged to bury themselves in smoke, both in 
winter and summer, in the one season to guard against the cold, 
in the other against the vermin. Many improvements and addi- 
tions in the buildings of the city had taken place during my ab- 
sence, especially in brick buildings, the erection of which has been 
of late much encouraged by the government. 

I again visited the hospitals and jails, as well as the foundling 
and work-house. In all of them I could not help admiring the re- 
spect and gratitude evinced by both descriptions of unfortunates in 
favour of Governor Tzedler. The public work-house is an esta- 
blishment upon a most laudable plan, and increasing its revenue 
and number of inmates in no small ratio. The latter circumstance 
may not speak much in favour of the mother country, but I believe 
there are few who form the wish, and few indeed, who will ever 
return. Eight hundred men, women, and children, now partake 
of the benefits of the establishment. The public schools do well, 
especially that upon the Lancasterian system. The want of a se- 



IRKUTSK. 341 

miliary for the children of the middling classes is however severely 
felt; they will not go to the Lancasterian school, and they cannot 
be admitted into the college of nobles. 

The Foundling hospital does not meet with any success. ■■ The 
Russians appear to be ignorant in the mode of governing an insti- 
tution of the kind, else there would certainly be a different result. 
The severity of the climate, the inhumanity and negligence of the 
mothers, and possibly the incapacity of the nurses are all to be con- 
sidered. Be the fault where it may, scarcely an instance occurs of 
a child being reared. The allowances to the institution are liberal, 
and it is visited by the first persons in the city, with a view to its 
ultimate success. 

Of all the public offices, that of the Admiralty is conducted with 
the greatest management and propriety. By this body provisions 
are forwarded to every part of northern Siberia. Stores in abun- 
dance are collected for the use of the dock-yard of Okotsk, and 
the vessels building and built, do credit to the government of this 
part of the world. But why the executive of the empire should 
permit tar, rope, canvass, iron implements, and many other such 
heavy articles to be sent from Irkutsk to Okotsk, I cannot divine. 
A single transport from Russia would carry as much in one year 
as four thousand horses; and the prices of the stores so sent by land 
are at least five times what they ought to be. This mode of pur- 
chasing stores for the use of Okotsk and Kamtchatka has been the 
means of filling the pockets of several commandants, owing to the 
circumstance of their being independent of every body but the Go- 
vernor-General. 

Irkutsk will, no doubt, in the course of a few years become a 
place of much greater importance to the Russian empire. Its re- 
sources would be sufficient even for a capital of an independent 
kingdom. The population of Siberia is at this moment large 
enough, and the natural means of defence are amply sufficient 



342 IRKUTSK. 

even in the present day to withstand an invading army. All the 
rivers of western and central Siberia run from south to north, and 
are consequently to be crossed in the face of an enemy. The im- 
mense deserts or steppes can be fired at pleasure, and all means 
of subsistence for cavalry be thus cut off. All provisions for the 
support of an invading army would have to come from Europe, 
consequently more horses than men would be required. The 
situations of many of the chief towns in Siberia are also very 
strong, and could not be reduced without artillery. To sum up— *■ 
all the roads might in a few hours be rendered impassable. The 
Siberians have only to keep the Kemchouga swampj and they may 
defy all the powers of Europe. This is however far from being 
the time for the emancipation of colonies. The Russians are too 
happy in them to wish to shake off the yoke; though the aborigines 
would no doubt wish to see themselves upon some other footing. 
This, however, will no doubt, occur too late to affect them, as in 
all common probability, they will be extinct at no very distant 
period; there are not at this moment under the Russian subjection 
more than seven or eight hundred thousand. What their numbers 
were at the discovery and conquest of Siberia, it might be as diffi- 
cult to determine as the population of the empire of Mexico at the 
time Cortes invaded it. Supposing generally, that there were 
several millions, what have become of them? 

My stay in Irkutsk occupied me until the 7th of January, when 
I departed in company with the two Inspectors of the post. The 
day was windy, but the road was good, over an open and well cul- 
tivated country. The banks of the Angara present some pleasing 
views, and numerous populous villages are scattered on either side. 
The eastern bank is low, while the western is prettily diversified 
with hills. Each cottage has its garden, and a great spirit of in- 
dustry every where appears. The first forty-five miles brought us 
to the magnificent view of the lake Baikal, on the road to which 



BAIKAL LAKE. 343 

we had met and overtaken thousands of carts and horses going to 
and coming from the fair of Kiakhta. 

The approach to the unfathomable Baikal lake, may be con- 
sidered one of the grandest sights in the world. The river Angara 
flows in the fore ground, gradually widening as it draws nearer to 
the lake, till at length the source of the river forms a pretty inlet, 
where the vessels for transporting provisions are laid up. The 
sight of a number of vessels in an apparently good condition was 
to me a source of great pleasure, and I could only regret that the 
season would not permit me to embark on board one of them, in- 
stead of crossing as at present, in a sledge. The mountains every 
where round the Baikal are of the most elevated and romantic ap- 
pearance. They are bold, rocky, and very dangerous for vessels 
in summer, as no anchorage is any where to be found. The winds 
are most violent, and subject to instant changes resembling hurri- 
canes. The sea is said to run mountains high, and as the vessels 
are badly manned and worse officered, it is no wonder that numer- 
ous accidents occur. July and August are considered as the worst 
seasons, May and June are the best; but whether in bad or good 
seasons, it not unfrequently happens that the transports are twenty- 
five and thirty days in crossing a distance of fifty miles. It is here 
that the power of steam would best exhibit its incalculable advan- 
tages. A boat might ascend the Angara to the Baikal, cross that 
lake, and, entering the Selenga, reach within twelve miles of 
Kiakhta, and even hold a communication with Nertchinsk. All 
the flour and provisions for the north would be thus more quickly 
and safely transported, and the immense traffic facilitated between 
Irkutsk and the several cities of Kiakhta, Petersburg, and Okoisk. 
The inattention of government, as well as of the opulent mer- 
chants, to this object is truly inconceivable. 

Having reached the Baikal, out of which the Angara flows, and 
into which the Selenga runs, we coasted it for thirty miles before 



344 VERCHNEY UDINSK. 

we arrived at the place of crossing. The ice was so clear, trans- 
parent, and slippery, that I could not keep my feet, yet the horses 
are so accustomed to it that hardly an instance occurs of their 
falling. We crossed the lake, and reached the opposite village, 
which has a considerable monastery, in time to breakfast; we had 
been two hours and a half in going the distance, forty miles. Such 
is, however, the rapidity with which three horses abreast cross 
this lake, that the late governor of Irkutsk usually did it in two 
hours — three hours are generally taken. A horse once fallen on 
the clear ice, I doubt any possibility of getting him upon his legs 
again. It is dangerous to attempt stopping the horses, nor indeed 
is it in my opinion possible; if, however, the vehicle be stopped 
on this sort of ice, I almost doubt the possibility of starting it 
again without assistance from other people to force the vehicle on 
from behind. On the other hand, 1 have seen sledges move so 
much faster than the horses, as to overtake and turn them short 
round, and ultimately to form a complete circle. 

From the monastery we continued over a low flat pasturage to 
a large Russian village of eighty dwellings. The road side is well 
cultivated, and we passed several villages before we reached 
Verchney Udinsk. Latterly the mountains rose into peaks, and 
threw out some immense bluffs, overhanging the Selenga: they are 
of bare rock, but the valleys are in fertile situations. We reached 
Verchney Udinsk, a large, populous, and flourishing city on the 
right bank of the Selenga, distant from Irkutsk two hundred miles. 
It has many handsome brick houses, churches, and public edifices, 
all running at right angles. There are three chiefs in it: the first 
of them is called an Okroujenoy chief, viz. Inspector of the Cir- 
cuit, and serves as a check upon the others; his business is to go 
round the commissariat, to listen to and redress grievances. The 
second chief is the commissary; he goes round all the commissa- 
riat except the city, collects the tribute, and performs all the civil 



SELENGINSK. 346 

duties. The third is the town major, who is chief of the city, but 
has no authority farther. It is evident that these three personages 
must either disagree, or combine to fleece still more their poor de- 
pendents. The appointment of the first chief is a new regulation. 
They are all subject to the vice-governor and governor of Irkutsk, 
who is himself subject to the governor-general. 

Verchney Udinsk is the grand mart between Irkutsk and Ki- 
akhia, and has risen upon the ruins of Selenginsk. A very lucra- 
tive and considerable trade is carried on round the neighbourhood, 
with the Burials, who are very numerous and wealthy in furs and 
cattle. There is a strong garrison kept up, it being considered as 
a frontier place, and a daily communication by a formal report is 
held with Selenginsk. The town contains four hundred houses, 
and about two thousand six hundred inhabitants. The situation 
is considered healthy, and is so far pleasant, that there is a very 
good, though small circle of society. From it to Selenginsk are 
seventy miles, which I performed along the transparent Selenga 
in seven hours. The banks of the river bore the most romantic 
appearance, the hills rising above one another into the loftiest 
mountains, but presenting no appearance of habitation except in 
the low valleys. The villages are, however, within four and five 
miles of each other, along both the banks of the river. I imme- 
diately repaired to the abode of the English missionaries settled in 
this part of the world, and need not say, that I was most kindly 
received by Messrs. Stallybrass and Youille, with their wives and 
numerous children; forming as it were an English colony, in the 
centre of barbarism. 

I passed a couple of days in a most agreeable manner, with these 
secluded and self-devoted people, who have indeed undertaken an 
arduous task. They have been established in the present place 
more than three years, and they have erected two neat and homely 
dwellings, with out-houses, small gardens, &c. It is to the gene- 
Xx 



346 MISSIONARY STATION 

rosily of the Emperor of Russia, (hat these very comfortable resi- 
dences are !o be attributed, he having generously paid all the 
expenses, and given the society a grant of land, free of actual rent 
or public service. The situation itself is in an inappropriate, 
although a romantic and secluded spot, and as it stands upon the 
opposise bank of the river to that of the city, the communication 
is difficult, dangerous and expensive; but it is now too late to 
change it. As yet the missionaries have not attempted to raise 
corn, nor do I think it advisable; the price of labour would be 
infinitely greater than the purchase of so small a quantity as they 
require. They have also much more important work to attend 
to — I mean the perfecting of themselves in the knowledge of the 
Mongolian language; and to this point they have attended with 
great industry, perseverance, and success. They are now almost 
masters of that difficult language, and when it is considered whst 
have been the perplexities with which they have had to contend, 
it is really surprising, how they should, in so short a time, have 
nearly completed dictionaries and grammars. While learning the 
Mongolian language, they have also become acquainted with the 
Mantshur, owing to the circumstance of there being no dictionary 
of the Mongolian, except with that of the Mantshur. Thus the 
missionaries had to learn the Russian, Mantshur, and Mongolian 
languages at the same time, and to form their own dictionaries 
and grammars, which have the advantage of alphabetical arrange- 
ment, over those in former use, in which the words were only 
classed under their different subjects. They now speak, read, 
and write the Mongolian with facility. I saw many translations 
of parts of the New Testament, which have been distributed about 
the neighbourhood. 

Many journeys have been made into the interior of the country, 
with a view to form acquaintances with the chiefs and principal 
people, as also with the lamas or priests. As yet, however, it is a 



AT SELENGINSK. 347 

matter of regret, that these very indefatigable ministers have not 
been the instrument of converting one single individual. Nor is 
it probable they will, for it is only very lately, that the Buriats 
brought their religious books, thirty waggon loads, from Thibet, at 
an expense of twelve thousand head of cattle. Their tracts have 
been received, but have never, save in a solitary instance, been 
looked into. Even their Buriat servants, secretly laugh at the 
folly of their masters, and only remain with them, for the sake of 
getting better food, with less work. It appears to me, that the 
religion of the Buriats, is of too old a date, and they are of too 
obstinate a disposition to receive any change. Nor is it much to 
be wondered at: their own religious books point out the course 
they pursue; and when the religion of a people, who have been 
from time immemorial acquainted with the art of reading and 
writing, is attacked and attempted to be changed by these stran- 
gers, it is almost preposterous to expect any favourable result. 
For my own part, so small are my hopes of their success, that I do 
not expect any one Buriat will be really and truly converted: for the 
sake of profit several may so pretend, but as long as they have their 
own priests and religious instruction, so long the Missionary So- 
ciety will do no more good than simply translating their works, 
and acquiring the knowledge of a language useless to England. 
I must however humbly add, that what is impossible with man is 
possible with God! The field chosen on the banks of the Selenga 
is no doubt the very worst; and this is known even to the mission- 
aries, but I presume it is too comfortable a birth to be given up. 
I have every respect for them personally, but really I cannot think 
justice is done to the people of England, in squandering money in 
every part of the world, while there are so many poor and reli- 
giously ignorant in our own empire. When we shall have all 
become good and steady and wealthy Christians, it will be high 



348 SELENGINSK. 

time to assist others; and thus, in few words, I bid adieu to the 
subject. 

The servants attending the missionaries, are Buriats, deserted 
and detested by all their own countrymen for having forsaken the 
religion of their fathers, merely for the sake of better food; they 
are tolerably expert in cooking, washing and attending table. 
Generally speaking, the Buriats have such scanty fare, that I am 
not surprised at their becoming hypocritical. Brick tea forms 
their ordinary food five days in the week; the poor but seldom 
taste meat, although they have generally a little fat mixed with 
their tea, the leaves of which they consume as we do greens, and 
which thus constitute, upon the whole, a very nourishing dish. 
The riches of the chiefs consist in large herds of cattle, and some 
quantities of furs. The number of sheep and goats in this part 
of the world is prodigious, horned cattle and horses are also very 
numerous. The Buriats appear a lazy, dirty, but contented race; 
and quite as unmanly, cowardly, and servile as the Kamtchatdales. 

The city of Selenginsk, standing upon the right bank of the 
river, is indeed a miserably decayed place, art and nature seem- 
ing to do their utmost to bury it in oblivion. A garrison of one 
thousand men is still kept up — to no purpose, for the locality of 
Verchney Uiiinsk must soon complete its ruin. It possesses but 
one respectable merchant, who has consequently an undisputed 
monopoly of what trade there is. 

The city of Selenginsk has suffered much of late, from two se- 
rious fires, and is in other parts tumbling down from the encroach- 
ment of the river, which annually makes great inroads. It is 
but twenty years since the present centre of the river was the 
centre of the city: the inhabitants have continued to recede as far 
as possible. Some embankments they made in the early part of 
last year were washed away in the autumn; and the foundations 
of many houses will no doubt be destroyed on the next breaking 



SELENGINSK. 349 

up of the river. There are about two hundred dwellings, and one 
thousand inhabitants, independent of the military. The vicinity 
is however very well peopled, and there is much corn raised by 
some colonies of Poles who were transplanted hither by the Em- 
press Catherine, about 1791. They are the only people I have 
seen in Siberia, who apply manure to their lands, and doubtless 
receive it again with interest. 



350 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Verchney Udinsk— Tchitta — Baidajofsky — Bolshoy Zavod — Nertchinsk — 
Tsurukhaitouyefsk, Kondou — Tchindat — Khirring — Ashenghinsky — Mo- 
goitu— The Ingoda— Tchitta— The Hot Baths— The Etamza— Return to 
Verchney Udinsk — The Selenga — Kiakhta. 

Having taken our farewell of the missionaries, we retraced our 
steps to Verchney Udinsk, and felt again gratified with the beauty 
of the scenery between the two cities, while the rapidity with 
which we glided along the transparent stream, served not a little 
to heighten the feeling. Immense mountains of porphyry form 
the banks of the Selenga, and I have been given to understand 
that gold is also to be found, but that the natives will give no in- 
formation for fear of having a mining establishment placed in the 
vicinity. At Verchney Udinsk the river expands considerably, 
and the mountains diverge from one another so much as to form a 
very open and rural country. The pastures are especially rich, 
and very fine timber is to be had, the small cedar nut is so boun- 
tiful as to be exported to all parts of Northern Siberia. 

At midnight with my companions, the inspectors, I quitted 
Verchney, and by eight in the morning we had reached sixty miles 
towards the town of Nertchinsk, forty of them on the river Uda, 
which flows into the Selenga near the city of the same name. 
The country was picturesque until we entered upon the Burlat 
Steppe, void of all cultivation and of every thing but rich grass. 
The road proved very heavy for sledges from the absence of snow. 
Nothing of the slightest interest is to be seen but solitary post- 



NERTCHINSK. 351 

houses at every twenty or twenty-five miles. In this manner we 
reached one hundred miles, when my companions called out to 
rest, as they were really jolted into a fever: I however persisted 
in continuing the route day and night. At one hundred and fifty 
miles we called upon one of the chiefs of the Buriats, whose 
tribe amounts to twenty-three thousand, reputed to be the largest 
in the government of Irkutsk. This Taisha or Chief is a young 
man of good parts and son to the former chief; I called at his 
chancelry, but he was out, yet were passports afforded me in the 
Mongolian dialect by his secretary, ordering every assistance to be 
rendered me by all his tribe, and every respect to be shewn to me. 
The present Taisha has two wives, who live in perfect harmony. 
He is fond of the missionaries, who frequently visit and lodge with 
him for weeks together, and is remarkably forward in the English 
language which Mr. Swan is teaching him. It is but very lately 
that he lost his father and mother who were rich, but he has been 
greatly impoverished by his mother's bequeathing her immense 
property to the lamas or priests. His possessions are about three 
thousand sheep, three hundred horses, and two hundred horned 
cattle; whereas his mother had forty thousand sheep, ten thousand 
horses, and three thousand horned cattle, besides a very large 
property in furs. One of the sisters of the present, who was 
lately married to another chief, received as a dowry forty cases of 
furs of the richest kind. These are customarily worn till they 
actually drop off — such is the neglect and filthy manner in which 
they live. The women are, on their marriage, dressed in satins 
and silks bordered with furs; the occasion being honoured with 
the same respect as their great feast in the month of February, 
which appears to be a sort of religious feast in imitation of the 
Chinese. The chiefs and subjects live together almost indiscri- 
minately. The chancelry of the Taisha contains fifteen clerks and 



352 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TCHINDAT. 

a secretary, who carry on a most extensive correspondence, and it 
may. be considered as exceedingly well regulated. 

At sixty miles onward I breakfasted at a beautifully situated 
post house; but with the exception of two or three agricultural 
villages, and those near the post-houses, there is neither cultivation 
nor inhabitant along the country. We now met with some lakes, 
and passed a monument erected to the memory of the late go- 
vernors wife, Mrs. Treskin of Irkutsk, who was travelling from 
that city to the warm baths near this place, when the horses tak- 
ing fright, she was literally kicked to pieces; while, strange to say, 
her two attendants and gallants remained unhurt. The circum- 
stances altogether are of so horrid a nature, that it would have 
been impossible not to lament the accident, if the character of the 
unfortunate woman had not fully justified the remark which I 
heard made, that her friends would have consulted their own and 
her interest much better, instead of raising the memorial, to suffer 
her name to be buried in total oblivion. At sixty miles farther we 
reached a Buriat village, where we were plentifully supplied with 
a species of trout. 

The road was still very bad, being a vast plane, and having 
but little snow upon it. The indentations of the hills were how- 
ever well wooded, and the scenery was upon the whole pic- 
turesque. The country thence continued low and sandy, till I 
reached the village of Tchitta, the river near which is a consider- 
able stream running into the Ingoda, which unites with the Amoor, 
and is ultimately lost in the Eastern Ocean. There is a beautiful 
little village called Tchindat upon an island in the river, beyond 
which the scenery much improves. The drive down the river 
was very delightful from the ever changing views which were 
offered to us — the bold, magnificent and barren rocks looking at 
once grand and terrific; nor was this sublime scenery less accepta- 
ble when contrasted with the beautiful and fertile pastures every 



APPROACH TO NERTCHINSK. 353 

where around; with here and there a straggling corn field, and a 
hamlet smiling through the dark woods which lay at the foot of 
the mountain precipices; or winding round and diminishing as the 
valleys continued to recede from our view. At six in the evening 
we reached the village of Baidalofsky, upon the left bank of the 
Ingoda, which here assumes a treacherous appearance, affording 
but a very unsafe journey over it. The stream is so rapid that it 
is seldom frozen for any length of time. We were twice upset 
into the river and lost one of the horses. Indeed such was the 
state of the weather, that no greater degree of frost than 15° had 
been observed since I left Verchney Udinsk. 

We now began to hear favourable accounts of the exertions of 
the new chief of Nertchinsk, who had materially ameliorated the 
condition of the convicts and peasants. Again my companions 
began to lament their hard duty, and requested me to halt and 
pass the night comfortably in a post-house. I however persuaded 
them to continue seventy miles farther along a river which con- 
tinually gave under us, and in no slight degree alarmed one of my 
friends, who was certainly born for other scenes than travelling in 
Siberia, unless in the easiest and most commodious manner. We 
were obliged at last to walk along the banks of the river, from the 
impossibility of getting the horses along. The thermometer, as 
we approached Nertchinsk, fell to 2S° of Reaumur, and although 
I had but my simple koklanka, or leather frock, I felt nothing but 
anxiety to push on, aware that if I could not return within a cer- 
tain time, I should not be able to quit Irkutsk before the month of 
May. 

The scenery was now very fine: elevated perpendicular bluffs, 
with pretty cultivated valleys, and several pleasant villages. The 
river Ingoda also assumed a more considerable appearance, widen- 
ing as we reached to the eastward, and at the city of Nertchinsk, 
being really a formidable channel. We reached the city late in 

Yy 



354 BOLSHOY ZAVOD. 

the evening; its distance from Verchney Udinsk is about five hun- 
dred miles. Having waited upon the three chiefs, and delivered 
our credentials, Mr. Stannack and I sallied out to view the place. 
It is vilely built, widely scattered, badly situated, and worse inha- 
bited. It contains two hundred dwellings, and one thousand in- 
habitants. Three tolerable brick edifices are the only objects 
worthy of notice in it, and, except that it has a church, it is merely 
a larger picture of any Russian village. 

The site of the city has within a few years been removed hither, 
a circumstance which may in some measure excuse its miserable 
appearance; but nothing can atone for its present bleak and expos- 
ed situation, without even fire-wood in its vicinity. The site of 
the old town was far superior, affording shelter and many conve- 
niences which are not now to be obtained. The town of Nert- 
chinsk stands at the junction of the Shilka and Nertcha rivers, 
uniting with the Amoor, of which, however, there is no part within 
the limits of the Russian empire. I was hospitably received by 
the different officers, especially the town-major, who distinguished 
himself in the late French invasion. 

We quitted Nertchinsk for the Bolshoy Zavod, or Great Fabric, 
distant one hundred and eighty miles, and over a highly picturesque 
park scenery, reminding me much of the upper banks of the Irtish, 
where the hills appeared as if placed upon a fertile plain, without 
any sort of communication with each other. The rocks are ex- 
tremely bare, and with the exception of wood in the valleys, there 
is little or nothing of cultivation to be seen. The thermometer 
now fell to 35°, and the air assumed a chillness I had not for some 
time been accustomed to. The soil is, however, so rich, that corn 
villages are every where to be seen all the way to Bolshoy Zavod, 
which shows an active encouragement on the part of the chief, of 
those more immediately under his eye and command. The fact 
is, that in consequence of the numerous desertions upon the high 



NERTCHINSK. 355 

road to Verchney Udinsk, it is not the wish of the government to 
render the country either populous or cultivated. On the contrary, 
every thing possible is done to make the country so impassable, 
that deserters may be obliged to resort to the post-houses for sub- 
sistence, where they are secured and sent to the prison of Verch- 
ney Udinsk. Should they take the route of the Tongousi, or Bratsky 
district, they are certain of being shot by the hunters or chiefs, un- 
less they produce a passport from the chief of Nertchinsk. The 
inhabitants occupying the corn villages, are all exiles of the upper 
sort, and yet as ill-looking a class of people as I ever beheld. I 
was glad to pass them in safety, although at the price of being up- 
set in a dangerous manner. We were, however, rather frightened 
than hurt, and reached safely the Zavod or Chief Fabric, late in 
the evening. 

A sound sleep, which we had not enjoyed for many days or 
nights, qualified us to pay our respects early the next morning to 
the chief, whom, with his son-in-law, I remembered as serving at 
Barnaoule during the lime I visited that place. A large feast had 
been held to honour the marriage of a doctor to a pretty plump 
woman with a little money; and I consequently found the people 
in silks and satins, and otherwise so daubed, that I began to augur 
ill of the place. It is the most miserable, yet extensive assemblage 
of huts I have any where witnessed. Even the residence of the 
chief is but to be compared to two or three yourtes joined to one 
another. 

1 saw nothing at Nertchinsk which could inspire me with any 
other sentiments than those of contempt and indignation at the in- 
considerate conduct of the persons in authority over the poor crimi- 
nals. It is impossible to conceive the haggard, worndown, wretch- 
ed, and half-starved appearance of these victims. Whatever may 
have been their crimes — and I believe them horrible enough — they 
never can have authorized the present inconsiderate mode of em- 



356 NERTCHINSK. 

ploying them. The knout, the whip, the brand, and the fetter, are 
nothing, when compared with the imposition of labour continued 
from sun-rise to sun-set for six months in the year, and during the 
other six to keep them in absolute idleness. The cutting of wood, 
getting in of hay, and attendance upon officers, is almost denied to 
the poor convict, from the fear of his deserting. Alas! whither 
can he go? — To places equally wild and savage? to those where 
the brute creation would equally torment him with those of his own 
species? The man who is sentenced to drag out the remainder of 
his existence in the mines of Nertchinsk cannot live long. What 
have become of the many thousands of beings sentenced annually 
to this place? Where are their wives and families? for here the 
work is carried on only by the constant arrival of fresh victims. 
Of Ekatherinebourg, I had certainly formed a low idea, but Ner- 
tchinsk is in reality the only place that I have seen where man is 
treated harshly throughout the Russian empire — I except the abo- 
rigines of Siberia. I should have expected and have hoped, that 
the present chief of this place would take a lesson from the well- 
organized establishment of Barnaoule, of the humanity and consi- 
deration every where apparent in the acts of that government. 
Why may not the exiles and peasants of this place, like the people 
of Barnaoule, be allowed every alternate day to themselves? It 
would be better both for the government and the exiles, if they 
were banished from this world at once, and the expense of their 
transportation would then be saved. 

The principal fabric, or Bolshoy Zavod, contains about four hun- 
dred yourtes, and three thousand individuals. No one dwelling, 
whether of public or private property, has even a decent appear- 
ance; they are all in fact huts: and such is the sterility of the soil, 
and such the severity of the climate, that no spar is to be had of a 
greater length than eight or ten feet, and even that comes from a 
great distance. The situation of this fabric corresponds with its 



NERTCHINSK. 357 

condition; it is in a deep hollow, surrounded by high and barren 
rocks, as bleak and dreary, and as inhospitable a place as can be 
imagined. The allowance to the criminals is on a par with every 
thing else — it is thirty-six roubles, equal to twenty-seven shillings 
a- year, to procure them food, raiment, firing, and lodging. The 
winters are considered as severe as in any other part of Siberia; 
for this its eastern situation will sufficiently account. The demand 
for warm clothing and firing is by consequence comparatively 
great, and the climate is in short such, that the fabrics cannot be 
worked during the winter. 

Nertchinsk, in all its concerns, reminds me forcibly of those 
pathetic descriptions of the mines of Siberia drawn by romantic 
writers; here their ideas are verified; — yet it cannot be supposed 
that the government of the country is so lost to feeling, to huma- 
nity, and good policy, as to wink at conduct of the kind. They 
must certainly be ignorant of what is doing, and of what the cri- 
minals suffer; yet how then can we account for a continuance of 
such severe treatment after the visit of the celebrated Mr. Speran- 
ski? This is indeed a serious question and charge. Since my 
arrival at St. Petersburg, however, I have been informed that it is 
the intention of government to give up the establishment at Nert- 
chinsk altogether, and withdraw the people, a determination which 
I hope originated with Mr. Speranski. It is indeed better policy 
than the old system of oppression, and yet bad enough, for the dis- 
trict is highly productive and valuable. 

There are six silver founderies, namely, Nertchinsk, Doutcharsk, 
Koutomarsk, Ekaterininsk, Gazimoursk, Shilkinsk. There is also 
a new foundery, named Pelrofsk, for the casting of iron for the use 
of the silver founderies. The thirteen principal mines when work- 
ed, produced formerly about a million of poods of ore, or three 
hundred poods of silver per annum, which is nearly one pound 
weight of silver for every four thousand pounds weight of ore. The 



358 NERTCHINSK. 

present proportion is one-third less, or from one hundred and eighty 
to two hundred poods of'silver per annum, besides twenty-five thou- 
sand poods of lead, which is of no service whatever. When the 
transport of this silver to St. Petersburg by especial conductors and 
guards is calculated, together with the maintenance of the esta- 
blishments at Nertchinsk, and a large military and Cossack force, 
who must be fed from Irkutsk, I need scarcely say that the whole 
is a ruinous as well as cruel concern. What is half a million of 
roubles? What is twenty-five thousand pounds to the Emperor, 
the produce of forty-eight thousand and twenty-seven individuals, 
at ten shillings and five pence per head per annum, being the value 
extracted from the mines of Nertchinsk? The following is the 
population: — 



Staff Officers .......... 78 

Unclassed Officers 699 

Convicts in the Mines 2,458 

Persons released from labour ....... 1,216 

Boys who do or do not receive maintenance from Government - 1,611 

Total male convicts 6,062 

Female branches of the above 6,098 

Peasants attached to the Founderies 17,773 

Females, do ' - - - 18,094 

Grand Total 48,027 



Of these there are actually but sixteen hundred and two able 
bodied men in the mines, and these are guarded by five hundred 
and sixty-four inferior officers, to prevent their secreting gold, 
silver, or precious stones. 

Although the chief and various officers had the politeness to in- 
vite me to some entertainments, which were to be given in the 
course of the week, I declined them from a feeling of the apparent 
and real misery so visible every where, that a heart alive to any 
sense of humanity, or kind feeling, could not fail to contrast the 
state of the two classes in this city of huts. At most such con- 



NERTCHINSK. 359 

duct would only stifle better and more praiseworthy thoughts. 
Even in the dissipation of a ball-room, I could not discard from 
my mind the abject distress and misery every where prevailing, 
and I felt it necessary to follow the example of Mr. Speranski, 
who also remained here but one day. I am certain that the good- 
ness of his Excellency's heart must have prevented his remaining 
to witness such a scene. I departed for Tsurukhailouyefsk late 
in the evening, and arrived early the following morning, the road 
being very good, and the country latterly interesting; the distance 
is sixty miles. Tsurukhaitouyefsk is a large village, called a for- 
tress, on the banks of the Argoon, unlike the city and Chief Fabric 
of Nertchinsk. It did my heart good to see to what a state of 
comparative perfection the numerous vegetable gardens are brought 
in this industrious place; the order, cleanliness, and hospitality of 
which are too apparent to be passed over in silence. The chief 
inhabitants are Cossacks, who have certain privileges and protec- 
tions, which cannot be infringed; they are, both officers and pri- 
vates, generally a rich, and generous, and noble people; in short, 
the inhabitants, along this line of frontier, are all that is under- 
stood in the word Cossack. The vicinity abounds in the richest 
metals and minerals, but is, as I have shewn, of no great value 
during the present system of policy. I saw a tolerably good col- 
lection of minerals in the possession of an old Russian, who takes 
great delight in shewing, and being a poor man is naturally de 
sirous to dispose of them, but does not appear to know their value. 
He demands about two hundred and fifty pounds for the collection^ 
a prodigious sum in that place, but a single specimen might be 
worth the money if brought to this country. Its weight is one 
hundred and seventy English pounds, and it is composed of so 
many minerals that he calls it the " Mother of Minerals." Among 
other specimens were, an amethyst, a noble topaze, an aqua 
marine, onyx, and several beautiful crystals, besides many thou- 



360 • KONDOU. 

sands of small specimens. The whole of these precious stones 
are imbedded in frozen sand, and I should think it would require 
great care and difficulty to remove it entire. Of the Scotch peb- 
bles, the large size, and the beauty of the veins were really as- 
tonishing; I made him an offer for one of the specimens, but the 
old gentleman would sell no less than the whole. Being introduc- 
ed to him by the chief of the Cossacks, and upon hearing my 
name, he remarked tha^t he had read it in the Gazettes, adding, 
that as this world appeared too small for my movements, he ex- 
pected ere long to hear of my arrival in the moon. 

We quitted the fortress and resumed our journey along the 
lines; by. midnight we had made but thirty miles along a snowless 
desert pasture. The night was exceedingly cpld, and I suffered 
from want of exercise, being in an open sledge: the thermometer 
stood at 36°. My companions here became alarmed at the diffi- 
culties which presented themselves against our progress, as well 
from the want of snow as from that of horses. They consequently 
determined to return by the route they had come; but for myself, 
1 had long made it a settled plan never to go over the same road 
while another is practicable, and therefore determined to proceed 
alone. I felt regret at parting company, which must, however, 
have taken place soon, as from their continual stoppages for rest 
and refreshment, I must have determined to out sail them. The 
quantity of their baggage, with three servants to attend them, ren- 
dered it also impossible for them to keep pace with me who was 
alone, with a knapsack only; and indeed the inconveniences and 
difficulties which afterwards happened to me, proved the prudence 
of their decision. 

I reached Kondou, forty miles, by a fine road, having previously 
come through a small fabric, the director of which presented me 
with a few mineralogical specimens. Kondou is an ancient place, 
and considered to be the same with Tchindat-turukouy, the birth- 



CHINDAT. 361 

place of the conqueror of China. I saw many remains of large 
Tartar ovens, but nothing that excited my curiosity so much as an 
old lady of ninety- three years of age. She was born in the vici- 
nity of Nertchinsk, and was now not only in the full possession of 
all her faculties, but in strong health, and capable of attending to 
the cares of her house and family. I had a most excellent dinner 
prepared for me by her own hands, and left her highly gratified, 
to pursue my journey over the immense pasture, passing through 
droves of three or four thousand horses. The country became 
more sterile, but somewhat more elevated as I reached a hospitable 
dwelling on the river Borgee, and then the Fortress of Chindat, 
situated near the little river Onons, which contains sixty dwellings, 
a party of Cossacks, and nothing besides. At four miles from it I 
passed through a large village of Russian agriculturists, who live 
here free frc^i all the cares of the world but that of the tax-ga- 
therers, against whose extortion I heard bitter complaints. The 
raising of corn appears to be pursued with some difficulty, but suc- 
cess attends the breeding of cattle. The inhabitants I have found 
civil, hospitable, and obliging when properly applied to, but other- 
wise both ignorant and obstinate. 

At the next place I was attended by a Cossack, and a guard of 
honour was mounted and a sentinel placed at my door to await my 
orders. The reports were also made to me, and with this state I 
continued my route until I reached the half-way village between 
the fortresses of Chindat and Kharinsky, almost shaken to pieces 
from bad roads, and a worse vehicle, a common and open telega, 
the total absence of snow rendering it necessary to proceed with 
wheels. To the south, the hills begin to make their appearance, 
and of course offer inducement to look about after the late dearth 
of scenery. I here met with the first Tongousian Cossacks. They 
subsist on a salary of six roubles, or four shillings and sixptnce a 
year, without bread or clothing, but a sword is held up by these 
Zz 



362 FROM CHUSDAT TO KH1RK1NG. 

half-naked wretches. They are in general a miserable set, but 
more particularly so at this moment, when their occupation pre- 
vents their going in search of fish, game, or furs. Yet I found 
them contented, and even happy, if possessed of a couple of cows 
or horses. The Cossacks treat them well, and feed many of them, 
whom they employ as servants; nothing will induce tbem, how- 
ever, to pass a night in a house so long as they have their own 
miserable yourte to go to. Indeed I recollect one of the chiefs 
contrasting the wholesome, free and fresh air which pervaded his 
yourte, to the stifled heat of a house: I think he was right in his 
choice. In all the villages I had lately passed, along these lines, 
there was nothing but lamentations; a veteran battalion, which had 
been stationed there for twenty years, was ordered to the govern- 
ment of Tomsk, distant about two thousand five hundred miles; 
the women and children could not accompany them. Their only 
riches consisted in a comfortable dwelling, a vegetable garden, and 
possibly a cow: all these were to be sold for a trifle to the Cos- 
sacks who remain. The case is indeed a very hard one. 

From the village of Khirring the scenery improves, the soil as- 
sumes a dark mouldy appearance, and a good many corn fields are 
scattered about. The river Onons runs along the valley which 
now formed my route; in descending one of ihe hills the horses 
took fright and got the better of the driver, who foolishly enough 
turned them down instead of up the hill, and thus not only upset, 
but broke the vehicle to pieces; as usual I escaped unhurt, though 
almost miraculously. We crossed the horses with the baggage 
lashed upon them, and reached a village all safe, distant ten miles 
from the scene of the accident. There I found an economical 
granary, upon a plan which might be well copied by the inhabi- 
tants of more civilized countries. Every head of a family agrees to 
reserve a certain proportion of his grain for the consumption of the 
following year, in the event of a scarcity. *It has only this difference 



ASHENGHINSKY AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. 363 

from the saving banks in England, that in the one ease, it is to 
prevent future famine, and in the other, future poverty. Upon 
my journey to Mogoitou, 1 was again upset and nearly dashed to 
pieces; the horses going down a steep hill, set off at full speed, and 
hauled the driver, myself, and baggage down the descent at a won- 
derful rate; again, however, Providence protected me, and the ac- 
cident had no disastrous consequence. The horses, it seems, are 
aware that winter is not yet over, and do not like to be so early 
put to wheeled vehicles. There has seldom been known a winter 
in which there was so great a want of snow, not even the hills re- 
taining a vestige of it. The misfortunes of this day operated upon 
me so powerfully, it being my wife's birth-day, 24th January, 
O.S. that I determined no longer to defy the Fates, and accord- 
ing tarried for the night. I had come over a hilly and well wood- 
ed country of considerable cultivation, as also towards Ashen- 
ghinsky, the fortress most south-east of any on this line of the 
frontiers between China and Russia. The distance to Ashenghinsky 
is thirty miles; it is, like Chindat and Tsurukhaitouyefsk, a for- 
tress containing sixty Cossacks and an officer, who is brother to 
the commandants of those other fortresses. The village of Ashen- 
ghinsky is pleasantly situated, and no person is permitted to live 
beyond it. Betwixt that place and Kiakhta there are two or three 
other fortresses, but no communication between them except by 
the foot of the mountains which divide the two empires of China 
and Russia. The whole distance to Kiakhta is five hundred miles, 
which cannot be accomplished on horseback with the same horses 
in less than ten days. I had not so much spare time, and there- 
fore reluctantly retraced my steps to Mogoitou with the design of 
getting upon the great route, one hundred miles from Tchitta, and 
thence to Kiakhta, which I calculated could be done in four or five 
days. The evening was passed in celebrating my wife's birth-day, 



364 VERCHNEY UDINSE. 

With a good supper and a glass of punch: my host, however, had 
taken it for granted that I was a bachelor. 

Next morning I departed and overtook about a hundred of the 
veteran battalion, who had been stationed upon the southern parts 
of the lines. I could not help smiling at the officer in command 
as he put his head, enveloped in a nightcap, out of a cart to sa- 
lute me; he was besides wrapped up in furs of various sorts and 
colours. I recollected that when 1 served in Canada with seamen? 
I considered it as shameful to ride while the sailors walked, for I 
did not consider myself as a judge of their fatigues or sufferings, 
without thus partaking of them. I shall, however, offer an excuse 
for this officer, who had certainly passed his grand climacteric. 
The road was sandy and stony, and but little pasture to be seen, 
yet the valleys presented scenes of interest. The little river 
Onons runs along the main valley, which is miserably inhabited 
by Raskolniks or Polish schismatics. At one hundred miles I 
reached the Ingoda river, over a poor and sterile district which 
does not even afford post-houses; and being without any attendant 
or Cossack, I found great difficulty in getting on. The people 
were not only uncivil, but inhospitable, so much so, that we fre- 
quently passed stations or villages without receiving any food, a 
circumstance I the more felt, as with the real Russians or abori- 
gines I had always lived in clover. The carts hereabouts cannot 
go ten miles without some accident, and it requires no little inge- 
nuity to repair them upon the road, so as to enable the traveller to 
reach the next station. Upon regaining the river Ingoda, I had 
again recourse to the sledge, the safest and most comfortable way 
of travelling. I thus reached Tchitta early in the morning, 
where I found all bustle and confusion, awaiting the arrival of one 
of the most amiable men I know, namely, the governor of Irkutsk, 
Mr. Tzedler. I almost regretted meeting his Excellency, as it 
seemed only to part with him, and yet I could never have quitted 



THE HOT BATHS. 365 

Siberia without saying adieu to that man and that family, whom 
in all Asia I most loved. May health and happiness ever attend 
both him and his! My route towards Verchney Udinsk was not 
marked by any thing peculiar, I moved along at a quick rate, till 
in crossing the dreary and stony steppe, the vehicle was knocked 
to pieces, there being no snow upon the ground, and I was conse- 
quently compelled to walk the rest of the way. 

1 reached Verchney Udinsk late in the evening, and waited 
upon the town-major, after which I determined to visit the hot- 
baths that I might bid adieu to the female part of the governor's 
family. Having procured a Cossack and sledge, I departed at 
midnight, and the next evening reached the baths, distant one 
hundred and thirty miles; but on what sort of road, or over what 
sort of country, I am perfectly ignorant, fatigue having quite inca- 
pacitated me from noticing I was most kindly received by the 
ladies, and induced to stay a day with them, daring which I in- 
spected the baths, hospitals, &c. which I found upon a tolerably 
good plan, with many conveniences. The water of the baths 
may be tempered from 160° downwards; they are strongly recom- 
mended for the cure of all chronic and rheumatic diseases, and are 
proverbial for the cure of that disease which may be called the 
plague of the Peninsula. There is little difference between those 
of Malka in Kamtchatka and these; both are sulphureous. There 
are many springs, the largest of which is two feet square and one 
deep; a thick dense fog continually hovers over the place, which 
I think contributes to the facility with which the fine vegetables 
appear to be raised. An overseer is appointed to look after the 
buildings, receive the rents, and keep a journal; he has a few 
workmen under his directions, and with the excellent accommoda- 
tions of his own, a sort of boarding-house, he has altogether a 
comfortable place. The site is highly picturesque, being but three 
miles from the lake Baikal, which is seen in all its magnificence 
from a little eminence at the back of the hospital; the country 



366 RETURN TO 

round is thickly wooded, and provisions are not dear. It is direc- 
ted by the colonial government at little or no expense to them. 
yet it is a pleasant resort during the months of March and April, 
when all the rooms and cottages, public and private, are crowded 
with merchants and (heir families. 

I imprudently continued in a bath for a quarter of an hour, 
and made myself very weak, yet persisted in immediately retra- 
cing my steps to Verchney Udinsk, having bid adieu to my kind 
and amiable friend. My route lay through a thick forest, to the 
borders of the Baikal, after which I coasted along the outer edge 
of the ice for eighteen miles, a distance easily performed in one 
hour and a half, thence, through a thick forest of lofty pine trees. 
The beauty of the route is surprising, and is the work of the late 
governor Treskin. I passed at a prodigious rate along the pictu- 
resque but well fenced banks of a mountain; the horses were ex- 
cellent, the drivers a set of fellows equally accustomed to whip 
and be whipped, i. e. a desperate crew of convicts, sent here 
for this express service. After midnight, my route lay over nu- 
merous lakes, some of them of so poisonous a nature, that many 
of the convicts lost their lives while forming the road a few years 
ago. Ducks, geese, and other birds cannot live after drinking of 
the water, though it appears that swans oifer an effectual resistance 
to the poison. I saw many of them swimming upon the princi- 
pal lake; for, whether from fear or superstition, they are never 
disturbed by the inhabitants. This journey was rendered very 
unpleasant from the superior respect which my Cossack paid to 
his own comforts, monopolizing nearly the whole of the cart, and 
snoring in such a manner as effectually to prevent myself as well 
as the driver and horses from getting any rest whatever. The in- 
habitants upon this by-road are regular Russian schismatic con- 
victs, and a more Tyburn-like set I never beheld. Woe to him, 
either in person or pocket, who travels as I did, without prepared 
provisions: generally they are too obstinate to sell any thing, and 



VERCHNEY UDINSK. 367 

when they do, will charge five hundred per cent, upon articles of 
necessity. 

Upon the river Elamza I made fifteen miles, when I entered 
upon the Selenga at its conflux with the latter river. The morn- 
ing was very cold and windy, and almost too severe to allow our 
progress at any rate, but my anxiety to get on, backed by a dram 
of spirits to the drivers, induced them to continue, and I for the 
fourth lime reached Verchney Udinsk, the latter part of the scenery 
being lofty and well wooded. My reports having been delivered 
to the several chiefs, I dined with them and then departed for 
Kiakhta one hundred and fifty miles distant, the first twenty-five 
of which were over the mountains, passing through a large village 
of one hundred peasants' dwellings. The road thence proving 
very indifferent, I descended the steep banks of the Selenga, 
pursuing my route along the river, and reached in good time the 
missionary station. The inhabitants had been expecting me for 
many days, not imagining that I would cross the country, or pro- 
ceed beyond the Bolshoy Zavod. 

I breakfasted with these devout gentlemen, and proceeded for 
Kiakhta, the first station to which was twenty miles along the 
Selenga. The route is at present dangerous, the river having 
given way under the numerous loaded waggons which crossed a 
tender part of the ice at a time when the thermometer had shewn 
for two days 2° of heat. Along the Selenga, passing through forty 
miles of dreary scenery, with only a few miserable villages to be seen, 
I reached the point where the road turns off from the river, and 
that which leads to the Chinese frontiers is continued over a more 
open, wooded, and, of course, interesting country. On reaching 
Kiakhta, the hills rise in a commanding manner, spreading out 
in various directions, and forming beautiful but unproductive val- 
leys. Every thing, in short, denotes a frontier situation, and 
something seemed to say, that here were the limits of two mighty 
empires. 



368 



CHAPTER XV. 

Kiakhta — Cloouchie — Seleginsk — Irkutsk — The Angara — Nishney Udinsk 
— Ulan — Krasnoyarsk — Yeneseisk — The Black River — Atchinsk — Bogoto- 
va — Kemchiega — Perecoole — Tomsk — Tasheeka — Chien — Kainsk — 
Barabinsky — Steppe — Vosnesensk — Yalanka — Zavolgalka — Omsk. 

The barracks and store houses upon the banks of the little brook 
Kiakhta, before the entry of the fortress, so called, have a pleasing 
appearance. This is a neat and regularly built town, with four 
hundred and fifty houses and four thousand inhabitants, a larger 
proportion to each dwelling than is probably found in any other 
part of the Russian empire. The little brook, of its own name, 
serves as the boundary of China and Russia, upon the right bank 
of which the fortress stands. Kiakhta is considered healthy, 
although the water is not good: but for the more wealthy inhabi- 
tants, this essential article of subsistence is brought at a considera- 
ble expense from a distance of two miles, and fire-wood from a 
distance of twenty. The soil is so poor that even common vege- 
tables are with difficulty raised. 

The district of Kiakhta is governed by what is called a Director, 
who has also the administration of the custom-house department, 
and unites in his own person, the judicial, political, military, and 
commercial superintendance. The two former offices are subject 
to a revision from Irkutsk, but the latter are dependent only upon 
the approbation of the Cabinet. The situation of the Director is 



OLD KIAKHTA, 369 

one of great importance and trust, as well as of considerable per- 
sonal emolument. The present officer has held the situation twelve 
or thirteen years, during which time he has doubtless had the 
means of amassing a most princely fortune, if his inclination lay 
that way; he is, however, not yet disposed to quit his command, 
and appeared to me to be a most honourable, intelligent, and in- 
defatigible servant of the Emperor. 

Kiakhta, 1 have already said, is a regular, well built town, but 
beyond this it can never reach, so long as the jealousy and envious 
policy of the Chinese is maintained. No stone buildings are al- 
lowed to be erected, except only a church for public worship; and 
though situate in a dreary, sterile basin, possesses many comforts. 
Beyond the fortress and immediately opposite to Maimatchin is the 
town of commerce now called Old Kiakhta, the residence only of 
the merchants, no officer or stranger being permitted to sleep in it, 
according to an article of the treaty of both empires. I visited 
Old Kiakhta in company with one of the most respectable mer- 
chants, agreeably to the request of the director, and found it to con- 
tain forty-five dwellings, many of which are very superior edifices, 
and have within them very rich stores. Under the countenance 
of the same respectable merchant, I continued my route toward the 
Chinese fortress, for so it is called, distant about two hundred 
fathoms from the old town of Kiakhta. Of all the celebrated 
places I have seen, and which have nothing to support their cele- 
brity, Maimatchin is the most eminent. It is a small, ill built, 
mud town, with four narrow, mud paved streets, running at right 
angles, containing, during the fair, from twelve to fifteen hundred 
men and boys, for the female sex are prohibited. The houses are 
without windows, and there is a total absence of every thing that 
can interest even the most ignorant or careless. Such then is 
Maimatchin, which reminded me much of the Old Moorish towns 
in the south of Spain and Portugal, and of those situate along the 
3 A 



370 MA1MATCHIN. 

northern coast of Africa. The absence of windows towards the 
street may be pardonable, as at least not mischievous, but to the 
absence of the fair sex is mainly attributable that dreadful degen- 
eracy which is said to pervade all ranks of society among theme 
The streets, as well as the dwellings, are clean; the latter are ap- 
proached by a narrow court, on each side of which are the store- 
houses. In the centre of this oblong square, is the actual resi- 
dence where the Chinese live, eat, drink, smoke, sleep, and carry 
on their business, and it is divided into two apartments. The first 
is appropriated to the sale of goods, which are fantastically dis- 
played; and fires, candles, brass stoves, and ovens, meet the eye 
at every corner, in the centre, or wherever the person may be 
who wishes to light his pipe. The other apartment is appropriat- 
ed to the guests for eating, drinking, &c. and differs from the first, 
in having a raised platform, which serves for a bed or dining place; 
upon this during the day, the blankets, pillows and cushions are 
neatly rolled up and ornamentally arranged. The fixtures of both 
apartments, which are richly prepared, are of mahogany brightly 
polished. 

I paid my respects to half a dozen of the principal Chinese 
merchants, some of whom are well versed in the Russian language, 
I was every where received with affability and hospitality; tea, 
liqueurs, dried fruits, cakes, punch and segars were immediately 
placed before me, and much interest seemed to be excited at finding 
an Englishman in that distant part of their empire. I was asked 
if I had been at Canton, and on replying in the negative, was re- 
commended to go there. The English, I was told, carried on a 
vast trade at that port, and that as I had come so far to see such a 
vile place as Maimatchin, I could easily go and see Canton. I 
found these Chinese extremely courteous and communicative, but 
they were much distressed when I told them that I employed a 
Chinese servant at Irkutsk. They could not understand how one 



MAIMATCHIN. 371 

of their celestial descendants could think of living in the Russian 
empire. The fact was that Captain Rikord had a Chinese ser- 
vant who went from Canton to Kamtchatka expressly to serve 
him; he had been in London some time and was a good servant, 
speaking various languages, and would very gladly have followed 
me to England. 

They have lanterns placed at regular distances, and lighted at 
a proper time, and cotton and silken bags, false bells, and other 
absurdities hang about the exterior of their dwellings. I visited 
their temple, which, notwithstanding its idolatrous purpose, has 
much of the Romish character about it. 1 saw no images of fe- 
male saints, but numbers of gigantic men and horses, and the whole 
was evidently the same sort of glittering carved and guiided work, 
as the most tawdry Romish church or chapel can boast. The 
Chinese temples, however, have this difference, that real valua- 
bles are not to be seen; neither gold, silver, nor jewels, nor even 
the semblance of them being placed about their images. I do not 
know whether this is the case in other parts of China. 

There is no fortress nor defence to Maimatchin, though from 
three to five hundred souls remain in the village during the spring, 
summer and autumn. Trade continues during the whole of the 
year, and there is no ceremony observed on either side on entering 
the Russian or Chinese villages. The best understanding exists, 
and each party alternately entertains the other. At this moment, 
the Chinese are employed in cards, draughts, chess, drinking, 
dancing, and singing. In the month of February is their chief 
festival, being what is termed the White Month, or the beginning 
of their new year. The principal feasts last three days, that is 
from the day before to the day after the full moon, and then the 
fair commences. The Russian chief also gives a feast to the chief 
Mandarin, and the principal Chinese. 

In reply to a question I put to one of the merchants, I was told 



37£ KIAKHTA. 

that the distance from Kiakhta to Pekin is one thousand five hun- 
dred miles; that a courier can go in len days, but that it lakes 
thirty days for the merchants with their goods. I was informed 
also that it is about one thousand miles from Kiakhta to the fron- 
tiers of China Proper, and that the road is across the Mongolian, 
a well peopled territory. The Mongoles are only so far dependent 
upon the Chinese, as to permit them to pass and repass their coun- 
try unmolested, being paid for the hire of the horses, &c. 

For an account of the trade of Kiakhta and the manner of car- 
rying it on, and which is a mere matter of exchange or barter, as 
not the smallest credit even for a moment is given by the Chinese, 
although it is by the Russians, I may refer my readers to Mr. 
Cox's work. The mode of trafficking is there accurately de- 
scribed, the work and risk still falling upon the Russians, the 
latter sending their goods in the first instance, and then receiving 
their teas, &c. The chief articles of import into Russia are teas, 
cottons, nankeens, silks, and good satins, many articles of curi- 
osity and ingenuity, and some trinkets. The exports from Russia 
are in general furs, i. e. foxes, sables, river and sea otters, wild 
cats, beavers, and millions of squirrels. The lightness, warmth, 
durability and cheapness of the latter have made them a favourite 
with the Chinese; and it is remarkable that the most rare and 
valuable furs do not fetch a good price with the Chinese, as they 
prefer the worst and most common. The best and most valuable 
are sold at Moscow and Nishney Novgorod for the use of the Rus- 
sians, Turks, and Persians. A large quantity of woollen cloths is 
also exported, and such, upon the whole, is the trade between 
Russia and China, that it yields a revenue of about seven millions 
of roubles, or three hundred and fifty thousand pounds per annum, 
a sum which in Russia is equivalent to three millions in England. 
The exports and imports are averaged at thirty millions of roubles, 
br a million and a half. Last year three millions of pounds of , tea 



KIAKHTA. 378 

were imported into Russia; this year the tea, as indeed other trade, 
is far from brisk. There is an immense stock of furs in hand, 
and this surplus is caused by the war between the Greeks and 
Turks. Forty sables, which are commonly averaged at eight 
hundred roubles, will now scarcely fetch three hundred and fifty. 
The Chinese know this, and are actually feeding upon the war 
alluded to. 

I returned from the Chinese town late in the evening, and en- 
joyed two days in the society, hospitality, and friendship of the 
Accouratnoy, (that is, the peculiarly correct) chief. The propriety 
and decorum visible in the establishment of the chief, the accom- 
plishments of his very amiable lady, and the superior education of 
his infant family, are of more value, and far more interesting, than 
any thing else I had seen in Kiakhta. Among other instances of 
attentive kindness on the part of the chief, I may mention my 
having been presented with a curious map of the Chinese Empire, 
with Russian notes, and which will be found by the curious in the 
British Museum to whom I presented it. Provisions are dear, 
bread fifteen pence for forty pounds, meat one penny a pound, and 
other things in proportion. The merchants live well, and evince 
an air of liberality and good faith which I have not seen with peo- 
ple of their class in other parts of Siberia or Russia; some of 
them are immensely rich, having settled here from Moscow, Ka- 
zan, Tobolsk, Irkutsk, Wologda, Kalouga, and Nishney Novgorod. 
One of them, Mr. Siberikoff, belonging to Irkutsk, and who has 
been three times elected mayor, has lately opened a new and 
splendid residence to his friends, the bare walls of which cost two 
hundred thousand roubles. The whole expenses, including its 
magnificent furniture from Europe, will, it is said, cost him, at 
least, twenty thousand pounds, a prodigious sum for a mansion in 
Siberia. 

Having seen all that I thought interesting in and about Kiakhta, 



SELENGINSK. 

I quitted it upon the third day. My route lay along the right bank 
of the Selenga, a rich pasture level, interspersed with Buriat vil 
lages, whose inhabitants received me with every distinction am 
obsequiousness, in consequence of my Mongole passport. At forty 
miles I crossed the little river Jackoy, and, coasting it for twenty 
miles, reached a large Russian village, Kliutchi, containing one 
hundred houses and near five hundred inhabitants. The soil had 
in general been sandy, and there was a good deal of pine wood on 
it. Being in an open cart, I suffered much from a strong cold 
wind, but persisted in continuing my route that I might not be too 
late for the winter road from Irkutsk. In the middle of the night 
I was overturned, but to these occurrences 1 had of late become 
so accustomed, that I scarcely noticed it. The latter part of the 
journey was over a hilly and sterile country, yet pasturing many 
flocks of sheep and goats, appertaining to some Buriats, who are 
rich in this neighbourhood. Early in the morning, after a cold 
and unpleasant night, with the thermometer at 30° of frost, I reach- 
ed once more, and for the last time, the abode of the Missionaries. 
A dram, a hearty breakfast, and a more hearty welcome, soon 
made amends for all. 

Being Sunday, I was the sole auditor of a long and extemporary 
sermon, from Isa. xli. 10. " Fear thou not for I am with thee." 
It was the first 1 had listened to for three years, and was therefore 
doubly acceptable. The text was remarkably appropriate, and 
the discourse directly adverted to the protections I had received 
from above during my past and yet unfinished pilgrimage. After 
divine service I partook of a farewell dinner, and bade adieu to 
these worthy and zealous Missionaries, regretting only that a more 
active and more useful station has not been assigned to their pre- 
sent unpretending and important occupation. 

I visited a small dock-yard in which vessels are built on an 
island at the junction of the Jackoy and Selenga, and which are em= 



IRKUTSK. 375 

ployed to transport the merchandize from Kiakhta to Irkutsk, and 
down the Angara to the Tongouska, &c. From what I saw I 
should term them clumsy and heavy galliots. 

I heard with surprise and regret, upon my arrival at the town 
of Selenginsk, that my travelling companions, the post inspectors, 
had passed through on their way to Kiakhta without staying for 
an adieu. They knew it was Sunday and probably feared the 
effects of a sermon. I took the summer road to Verchney Udinsk, 
which is distant from the right bank of the river some miles ; it is 
a hilly and sandy country, well wooded with pine. On reaching 
Verchney early in the morning, I found all bustle and anxiety to 
see their new Governor-general. The officers appeared to me to 
be suspended between hope and fear, and I could not help smiling 
to see their guilty consciences fully depicted in their faces Being 
well assured that his Excellency's arrival would take place the 
following day, I determined to await it, to express my acknowledg- 
ments for his kinkness and consideration. 

In the mean time, I found good quarters and excellent society 
at the abode of the Okroujenoy chief and his young bride. The 
Governor-general arrived as I had predicted, with ail his numerous 
staff. His Excellency's plain dealing and honest speaking soon 
put the whole city in perturbation. Very few compliments passed, 
and I believe his Excellency will be, though more disliked, as long 
remembered and respected for his integrity, as the late Governor- 
general Mr. Speranskiy for the present chief, like his predecessor, 
has struck at the roots, as well as lopped the branches, of corrup- 
tion. His Excellency appears determined to put down those abuses: 
I fear, however, the task will prove difficult, unless the situations 
of the officers are made more respectable than they are at pre- 
sent. 

I departed for Irkutsk, which I reached safely, and re-crossed 
the Baikal, where I purchased a couple of silvery seal's skins, or 



S16 FACTORY NEAR IRKUTSK. 

pboca Siberica, which are numerous in the lake, and consequently 
set aside the axiom of Pliny. I reached Irkutsk early on the 
morning of the 7th of February, having been one month absent. 
I immediately occupied myself in preparing for my departure to- 
wards Europe, which I hoped to reach by a sledge- road. Society 
had lost every charm in Irkutsk; the ladies, the military, and most 
respectable merchants were either gone to the fair of Kiakhta, or 
to the hot baths. I took possession of my old quarters, and be- 
came, as it were, master of the house. I had here the pleasure of 
receiving a long and highly complimentary letter from Sir Charles 
Bagot, a pleasure, indeed, far too great to be described. 

Upon the evening of the 10th of February snow fell in great 
quantities, and I consequently departed the next morning, with 
tears of regret at quitting a place where I had been so cordially 
and respectfully entertained. If on my return, I experience simi- 
lar good fortune, I shall indeed have cause to rejoice; and if my 
expenses from hence to Moscow be as small as to this place, I 
may be termed a most economical traveller; for from thence to 
Irkutsk, about three thousand five hundred miles, cost me only 
thirty-two roubles, or about twenty-five shillings. 

Late in the evening I reached the glass and cloth manufactory 
belonging to the Emperor, distant forty miles from Irkutsk. The 
dolb, produced from this factory, is of a stout and coarse kind, 
and of a greyish colour, and is destined to the use of the Siberian 
army. The glass is, in general, of a greenish colour, but both 
manufactories are considered to be in a thriving condition. Its 
comoiandanl depends upon the private cabinet of the Emperor, 
and is in no respect subservient to the Governor-general of Ir- 
kutsk. I had crossed the Angara, with its fertile plain, and had 
viewed the distant hills to the right, with a melancholy to which I 
had not of late been accustomed, after which my route lay over a 
well wooded country, with neat and populous villages at every ten 



NISHNEY UDINSK. 377 

and twelve miles, besides numbers inhabited by Buriats off the 
high road, at the distance of two and three miles. The weather 
was cold, but the road being very fine, we were not long in reach- 
ing Nishney Udinsk, which we did on the morning of the 13th of 
February, in a frost of 32°. 

Nishney Udinsk is a large but scattered town situated on the 
right bank of the Uda, which falls into the Yenissei. The people 
were mostly drunk, and I was consequently detained for some 
time. The town- major, who is the progeny of a cockney shoe- 
maker and a butcher's daughter, amused me greatly, by shewing 
me his affidavits and indentures, bearing the signature of Sir 
Richard Carr Glyn, the then Lord Mayor. He is strongly marked 
with the characteristics of his cockney ancestry. It was at this 
place that the most unbridled tyranny and extortion was practised 
about three years since, by the Ispravnick, who was seized and 
conveyed away under a strong guard, by orders of Mr. Speranski, 
and still remains in prison. He was so great a simpleton as to 
keep his riches in his own dwelling, and all were consequently 
confiscated. Indeed, such were the abuses in this commissariat, 
that the GovernOr-general was a fortnight employed in hearing 
grievances. In those times no one, not even an officer, or civilian, 
could pass through the city without a Cossack; for unless a toll 
were paid, robbery was certain afterwards to take place, a regular 
band being employed for that purpose. Nor am I aware, nor 
have I any reason to believe, that there is much difference betwixt 
its then and its present state. 

From Udinsk I descended a difficult pass, at a tremendous rate. 
Under any other circumstances, I should certainly have preferred' 
slower travelling, but the wretched disposition of the people re- 
conciled me to the danger. I reached the large village of Ulan, 
and the still larger village of Ingashe, where regularity, cleanliness, 
and propriety, are more conspicuous than in any other place that I 
3B 



378 1LLAN. 

have ever seen. Many of these villages contain from one hun- 
dred and fifty to two hundred dwellings. No horse, cow, or dog, 
no cart, or dirt of any kind is allowed to remain in the street a mo- 
ment. When a vehicle stops with passengers or travellers, it must 
remain at the back of the dwelling, and the street being thus clear, 
the travelling vehicles pass through the village with a wonderful 
rapidity, without any fear of consequences. 

I had now reached the frontier town of the government of Ir- 
kutsk, the inhabitants of which amount to six hundred and fifty 
thousand, including two hnndred thousand in the government of 
Yakutsk, Okotsk, and Kamtchatka. The number of convicts is 
estimated at from ten to twelve thousand — many of them are allow- 
ed to work for their own benefit, as is the case in most of these 
villages on the frontier line. The children of these convicts be- 
come what may be termed crown peasants, the sins of the fathers 
being thus truly visited upon the children, unto every succeeding 
generation. 

The government of Irkutsk is most extensive, occupying a 
breadth from east to west, of two thousand miles, and a difference 
of latitude equal to one thousand two hundred, which averages not 
more than one person to every four square miles. That part of the 
world is, however, so rapidly improving, that although it is little 
more than two years and a half since I passed this road, I can 
scarcely recognize the same places. Commissariats have become 
governments, towns have taken the rank of cities, villages are 
called towns, and where there were no dwellings there are now 
many hamlets. This might hastily be attributed to the increase 
of crime, but this is not the cause: it is owing to the transplanting 
of people to the vicinity of the new government; as well as to the 
arrival of convicts in the same ratio as the aborigines may be said 
to decrease. 

Upon entering the government of Yenisseisk, I directed my route 
to Kanskoi, situate on the left bank of the river Kan, the Styx of 

\ 



RANSK01, 379 

Siberia. My old friend the schoolmaster had changed his abode, 
a circumstance which I much regretted. My route thence lay 
over a fruitful corn and pasture country with a good deal of fine sce- 
nery, until I reached the vicinity of Krasnoyarsk, when it beeame 
more dreary and sandy. I reached this new capital of a new pro- 
vince at midnight in very cold weather, and was glad to get into 
comfortable quarters as well as to escape from the ruffian set of con- 
victs who compose the inhabitants of many of the villages, all of 
which are in a most disgraceful, mean, and slovenly condition. 
No spark of emulation is discernible in the character of the peo- 
ple of this province. This, no doubt, arises from want of encou- 
ragement on the part of the chiefs and visiting officers; but indeed 
the state of the police, and the attention shewn at the post-houses 
in the government of Irkutsk, makes the negligence in other go- 
vernments much more conspicuous. 

I have heard of necessary evils, and have doubted such a para- 
dox. I was, however, on this journey convinced of the fact at 
certain places and at certain times. I had a good and active Cos- 
sack with me, whom I was very well pleased with except on arriv- 
ing at the villages in the Yenisseisk or Tomsk governments; as on 
such occassions, it was his constant practice to beat, and otherwise 
ill-treat those whose business it was to provide horses, pulling 
them by the hair, ears, and nose, and this without the least appa- 
rent necessity or provocation. On my demanding the reason of 
this brutal conduct, he told me that if custom and inclination did 
not lead him, necessity would compel him so to act. The prac- 
tice had the effect of enforcing the demand afterwards made for 
horses, which he was then certain of having furnished forthwith. 
That but for this severe exercise of authority, there would be no 
possibility of his getting over more than sixty or eighty miles a 
day, while the government, at such a season of the year, expected 
at least one hundred and eighty or two hundred. Doubting the 
truth of this extraordinary representation, I desired that at the 



380 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF KANSKOI. 

next village he would order horses in a peremptory manner, but 
not ill-treat or abuse the people concerned; he dixLso, tendered the 
passport and desired all haste to be made; the elder of the village 
replied the horses would arrive immediately. I waited half an 
hour, and got none. "Where is the elder of the village?" "At 
the gin shop," said the Cossack, " helping to drink out the money 
which is to be paid for the next station." The elder of the village 
then came to me, with an apology, and returned to the gin-shop; 
nor did I actually get horses for two hours, at the expiration of 
which time the Cossack again had recourse to his old and effectual 
mode of levy. The reader will believe I never again interfered 
further than to entreat he would be more lenient; the consequence 
was, 1 had horses always provided in ten minutes. 

This custom of flogging the peasants in advance is so generally 
carried into execution, that they become more hardened and un- 
feeling than they otherwise would be; and it is this custom which 
makes them so averse to carry the government requisitions into 
effect. It must proceed from the weak and ignorant policy of the 
superiors, a policy which adds greatly to the natural tyranny of 
the Cossacks. It was the strict and rigorous discipline kept up 
by governor Treskin, that enabled the traveller, and still enables 
him, to travel through the government of Irkutsk speedily and 
safely, with the exception of the point at Nishney Udinsk. By 
proper rewards and punishments, these people might be recalled 
from the state of depravity and insensibility they are now forced 
into, and be made, like most of the inhabitants of Siberia, a ra- 
tional people; whereas now drunkenness, negligence, and reckless- 
ness, are their characteristics. 

At Krasnojarsk I visited a party of Jews, of whom there are 
seventy in the city, some of them very rich. I was surprised at 
their wearing, added to their long beard, a tartar dress, which 
consists of a long silk gown, sash, and black bonnet. Their fea- 



KRASNOJARSK. 381 

turcs, customs, and conduct, are otherwise the same with the rest 
of their nation. The price of provisions is much greater at 
Krasnojarsk, than it was formerly, owing to the formation of the 
new government. I called on my old friends the commissary and 
police master; the wonderful alterations which an increase of rank 
had made in the latter of these officers, served to shew me, that 
human nature is every where the same. I found the city in its 
old place, hut much improved in new buildings, public and private; 
those for the Chancelry are beautiful in their design, and liberal 
in their execution. The city is in general built of wood, but 
bricks are coming into more general use. The situation both in 
winter and summer, is windy and exposed. On the opposite bank 
of the rivers Achin and Yenissei, the country is beautiful and fer- 
tile during the spring, summer, and autumn, but not healthy. It 
was at this place that the Emperor Paul wished to form a Scotch 
colony; and if the project were followed up by the present Empe- 
ror, it would doubtless succeed, upon the liberal encouragement 
which he is known to give to foreigners, generally and indivi- 
dually. 

Having renewed my passport and got my sledge repaired, I de- 
parted with the intention of visiting the ancient town of Yenisseisk, 
on the right bank of the river of the same name, two hundred 
miles north of this; and thence to have cut into the main road at 
Achinsk. Such was, however, the state of the roads that it was 
utterly impossible. I had much wished to visit the manufactories 
established in that place, especially those for working up sea horse 
and mammoth teeth. A set of chess-men were presented me 
about three years ago, which go into the compass of one third 
of an inch square, consequently so small, that it requires good 
eyes to distinguish the pieces from the pawns. I had also some 
desire to see Yenisseisk, because it is one of the most antique 
places in Siberia, the old Russian style of building being still kept 



382 BIRRICOULE. 

up, in which the roofs of the houses project twelve and fifteen 
feet beyond the walls, and form a complete shelter. There is be- 
sides another curiosity there, which is famed all over Siberia. 
This is a massive silver candelabrum, suspended from the centre 
of the church; its weight is one thousand pounds, and its value 
above five thousand. The advanced state of spring, and the 
badness of the roads, prevented my visiting it, and I continued on 
the straight route. 

The road to the first station was so bad that we changed horses 
twice, nor were the following stages much better, the first entirely 
without snow, and the others with too much. I reached the Black 
River with a broken sledge, the road so hilly and full of ruts, 
that from the heavy falls we got I expected to be laid up; the 
concussions were dreadful, and I never suffered so much in my 
life. Sometimes while going at the rate of ten miles per hour 
upon a smooth and level road, the vehicle would be pitched to a 
distance of six or eight, and over a perpendicular fall of two feet, 
nearly killing the horses with the shock. In such a state I reached 
Achinsk, which, from a large village when I was here before, is 
now become a small town. Its local situation at the junction of 
the Achin and Tongouska is valuable. On reaching the village 
of Bogatova the country becomes better cultivated and more pic- 
turesque. The heavy rains which it is subject to, do great dam- 
age, frequently inundating the country as far as Kemchouga. 
The entry into the government of Tomsk is equally miserable 
with that of Yenisseisk, nor are the roads any better. To add to 
the misery of its appearance I met two gangs of convicts, about 
three hundred in number, journeying to a long home. Foxes, 
however, and good sables, with wild goats, abound in the two 
governments. 

At Birricoule, the incivility of the landlady of the house in which 
I was quartered called forth the exercise of my powers. She was 



TOMSK. 383 

determined to afford me no assistance nor civility, even deny- 
ing me her habitation, as she expected the Captain Ispravnick 
that day. Having arrived the first, and knowing that by law I 
was entitled to the best quarters in the village, I did not feel in- 
clined, particularly on account of my wife, to give up the point, 
her abode being really comfortable and clean. I therefore persist- 
ed, telling the lady, at the same time, that I only wanted a little 
milk which I would pay for. This declaration had such an effect 
upon the poor woman that she became as interested to serve, as 
she had before seemed inclined to annoy me. She told me her 
expected guest would require something more substantial than 
milk, besides a twenty-five rouble note, or a skin of that value. 
The poor woman also confessed that she had paid the same sum 
not long ago, and was again prepared for the honour done her by 
this commissary. 

My route lay over a level country, boasting numerous villages^ 
but all bear the Tomsk character, marks of much misery. There 
is a considerable quantity of fine timber about the country, before 
the city of Tomsk is approached. The prospect then becomes 
most dreary and desolate, presenting one boundless waste of brush- 
wood covered with snow. I reached the city late in he evening, 
quite knocked up from fatigue and want of rest, although my wife 
still held on. To try my patience, I was kept waiting at the 
Police-office two hours before I was provided with quarters: into 
the first however, I could not be received, nor into a second which 
were pointed out to me, and upon my arrival at the third, I found 
them so bad as to be hardly habitable; perhaps I was getting too 
nice and delicate. At any rate they were so bad, as not to induce 
my staying a longer period than was necessary. I paid my re- 
spects to the acting governor, an excellent character, as also to 
Mrs. Ulechefsky, wife of the late governor. In Tomsk, as in many 
other places, the acts of the new Governor-general (for Siberia 



384 TOMSK. 

has now two governors-general, the eastern one commanding the 
government of Tobolsk, and Tomsk, with the chieftainship of 
Omsk, and the western one commanding the governments of Ir- 
kutsk, and Yenisseisk, with the chieftainships of Yakutsk, Gkotsk, 
and Kamtchatka) have created great disgust; among others may 
he mentioned, his conduct to the people working the brandy dis- 
tilleries. The Governor-general is General Kaptzevitch of the 
army, a man who distinguished himself in the late campaigns. His 
severity and rigid principles are not likely to gain him many friends 
in Siberia, as would be divined from his having actually ordered 
officers to receive so many blows, if the quantity of spirits extract- 
ed from corn were not more than doubled. Whether the general 
was right or wrong in the mode of increasing the revenue, or of 
making people do their duty, is one question — whether the officers 
and people employed did not make a pecuniary sacrifice to escape 
such humiliation, is another; but certain it is, the quantity of 
spirits is produced. 

It is in agitation to remove the seat of government from Tomsk 
to a village not far distant, for what reason I cannot conjecture, as 
no seat of government is required to furnish more than the conve- 
niences of keeping up the communication. Tomsk has already 
lost much of its population within these ten years; the district of 
Kolyma, which contains a population of one hundred and fifteen 
thousand, is now independent of it, and the new government of 
Yenisseisk has taken from it about sixty thousand, so that the pa- 
tronage snd pecuniary concerns of the governor of this province 
are greatly diminished. The number of inhabitants in the city is 
at present near ten thousand, which will shortly be reduced, as a 
great number will quit. There are one thousand eight hundred 
houses and twelve churches in the city, situate at the junction of 
the rivers Tom and Ousheika, one of the most dreary and bleak 
situations in the world. A great number of Mohamedan Tartars 



KAINSK. 385 

reside in the city and contiguous villages, who are of the same 
caste as those of Kazan. 

From Tomsk I departed for Tobolsk, that I might see the new 
Governor-general, and as the road is one I have never been over, 
I shall be more particular in tracing and describing it. The first 
forty miles were over a fine road, the borders of-which were lined 
with noble timber, such as birch and pine. There was some 
tolerable park scenery, but the country was generally flat. At 
the little romantic village of Tasheka I crossed the magnificent 
river Obe, where it was a mile Avide. Thence my route, day and 
night, was continued over a most uninteresting low flat pasture 
plain, with here and there a few dirty villages. At one hundred 
and fifty miles I reached the village of Tchin, where I breakfast- 
ed with an old man, who was one of the first settlers upon the 
Barabinsky Steppe, under the auspices of Catherine. He remem- 
bered when bread was a halfpenny, and beef five pence, for thirty- 
six pounds, whereas they now sell at five pence and thirty pence; 
formerly also the people worked better, and not being the high 
road they had not so many drawbacks. 

The road, as I proceeded, was crowded with caravans loaded 
with tea, silks, and furs, and I reached the town of Kainsk in 
good time to breakfast. The road was good, but the country and vil- 
lages bear the most wretched desert appearance; no wood of any de- 
scription is to be seen on the left bank of the Obe. 1 had crossed 
the Kainka before entering Kainsk, which it; a neat town standing 
in the centre of a low brushwood forest. There are sis hundred 
houses and two thousand five hundred people. The three chiefs 
who command it appear to have placed it in a flourishing state. 
In the town are several handsome brick edifices, a well stocked 
market and clean streets, but there was not the least bustle or 
noise, save that of tolling a solitary bell for mass. 

From Kainsk I directed my steps towards Omsk, having un- 
3C 



886 VOZNESENSK. 

derstood that the Governor-general Kaptzevitch had left Tobolsk 
for that place. The central part of the Barabinsky Steppe pre- 
sents a good deal of cultivation, which increased as I reached the 
western parts of it. Horses, goats, sheep, and cows appeared very 
abundant. The soil is considered so fine, that it resists the cold 
in a more than ordinary degree. Bears and wolves abound in the 
neighbourhood, and approach the villages so close, as often to 
alarm the people. Hogs, fowls, ducks, and geese are seen run- 
ning about the villages, in all of which there are several farm 
yards. Considering the northern situation of the Barabinsky 
Steppe, the excessive rigour of its climate, which forty years ago 
was deemed uninhabitable, and the various obstacles which op- 
posed agriculture, it cannot be denied that great praise is due both 
to the government and the colonists. At present, probably there 
is less danger in traversing it than any other part of the Russian 
Empire; though the inhabitants in general do not possess so much 
of that kindness for which the Siberians are celebrated, most of 
them being schismatics from the Greek Church, and descendants 
of those sent hither for colonization by the Empress Catherine. 

Having been hospitably entertained by the commissary, with 
whom I had previously been acquainted in Tumen, I departed for 
Omsk, and before I had proceeded ten miles on my journey, the 
Cossack left me to pass his time in a gin shop, and I continued on 
without him; but, by buckling a pair of horses to a slight sledge, 
he succeeded in overtaking me. Terror was depicted in his coun« 
tenance, for he was conscious of having rendered himself liable to 
severe punishment. He turned out a worthless drunkard, but I 
pardoned in preference to punishing him. The first half dozen 
villages, which are very well built and clean, contain five or six 
hundred inhabitants each. The road being very fine, we were 
enabled to reach Voznesensk, ninety miles from Kainsk, in twelve 
hours. Many people are stationed on the road and employed, as 



TAVALGANKA. 387 

contractors on account of government, to buy up the next year's 
corn, which begins already to get dear, owing to the demands for 
the support of the garrison of Omsk and the people of Tobolsk. 
There were also on the road several persons bound to the new go- 
vernment of Yenisseisk from the wilds of Ishim. They are prin- 
cipally Poles, and on account of the government offering lands 
free of taxes for twenty years, are removing to more fertile places. 
I turned off from the Barabinsky Steppe previous to my reach- 
ing Tara, and took the direct route to Omsk; a route which I 
found it difficult to traverse, being so narrow that the horses were 
obliged to go, as it is called in this country 'goose-fashion,' one 
after another. The sledge I had was also too broad for the road, 
and frequently threatened to upset, though this could do us little 
injury, the depth of the snow being such that half a dozen horses 
could not have removed the vehicle from such a situation. The 
point where the road branches off is also the line of demarcation 
between the governments of Tobolsk and Tomsk, and is formed 
by the large and neat village of Yelanka, which contains one thou- 
sand five hundred inhabitants. I felt extremely gratified at reach- 
ing the government of Tobolsk, which appeared to me, even on 
the frontier line, to be inhabited by a more civilized and generous 
race than that of its eastern neighbour. The lands were certainly 
in a better condition, being stoutly and neatly fenced in, at least 
along my route, which was on the right bank of the Om. The 
only picturesque spot, however, on the road to Omsk, was at the 
village of Tavalganka. Here I halted for some time at the abode 
of an old man who maintains a couple of Kirguiss, if possible in 
a more miserable state than my fancy had before painted them; 
for here they were in a frost of 32°, worse than half naked, yet in 
that state compelled to work hard for their bread. I reached Omsk 
on the third day, and put up at my old quarters. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Omsk— Tou-Kalan— Ishim— Tobolsk — Kamishloff — Mr. Major's establish- 
ment — Ekatherinebourg — Billimbay-Zavod — Bissertskaya Kreposte — 
Kungour— Perme— Okhansk — Killmess-selti — Malmish— Kazane — Tche- 
bokssari — Vassil — Nischney Novgorod — Bogorodskoye — Paulovo — "Vladi- 
mir — Moscow — Klinn — Tver — Torjock— Vishney-Volotchock — Novgo- 
rod — St. Petersburg. 

My first duty was to wait upon his Excellency the Governor-gen- 
eral Kaptzevitch, to whom I had the pleasure of being known in 
Kazan. I was received as usual, and every attention and kind- 
ness were renewed to me by my old companions. My passports 
were also renewed, a public order was given for every legal as- 
sistance to be rendered me, and I again prepared to start. Omsk 
appeared, like most places in Siberia, to have undergone a con- 
siderable change, for the streets are kept clean, the gaps are all 
filled up with new houses, public buildings have been erected for 
many of the chief officers, a cloth manufactory has been establish- 
ed and is already at work, and the lame, blind, deaf and dumb 
are employed in it; the streets are no longer traversed by the 
begging poor, and a more military air pervades the town than for- 
merly; more of real justice is administered along the whole line 
of demarcation, and consequently more general satisfaction and 
tranquillity prevail. 

I attended an examination of the young Cossacks, three hun- 
dred and fifty in number, and, considering their ages, thought them 



TOD-KALAN. 389 

very well advanced in reading, writing, and arithmetic; the senior 
classes have also made considerable progress in drawing, fortifica- 
tion, algebra, mathematics; and one, a distinct class, in the art of 
surveying, with the view of being employed to survey the whole 
of Siberia. They are well clothed, fed, and lodged, at the ex- 
pense of the Emperor; as are also the sons of the soldiers of Sibe- 
ria, of whom there are one thousand in the Lancasterian school, 
which system is still laudably persevered in, and with complete 
success. Omsk has of late been erected into a vice-government, 
and consequently a Chancery Court, and trade, will be established 
there independently of Tobolsk. 

After two days' stay, I departed from Omsk, and soon reached 
Tou-Kalan, a place which I well remembered as being that where 
I lost my passports and papers: this village has also risen to the 
rank of a town. Thence my route lay towards Ishim one hun- 
dred miles from Omsk. Upon the road I had a difference on a 
point of etiquette with a young officer who was going thither. The 
road was so narrow, and both our sledges so broad, that it was im- 
possible to pass without one of them being upset into the snow, 
Presuming on his rank as an officer, he ordered my Cossack and 
driver to pull up out of the path and let him .pass. My Cossack, 
though told that he was an officer, refused to obey until he knew 
his rank, and finding that he was a lieutenant and consequently 
only noble, desired him to make way for most noble. The young 
gentleman being pressed for time, and rather head-strong, drove 
on as near the edge of the road as possible, and his sledge coming 
in contact with mine, was most completely turned off the road into 
the snow: his situation was truly laughable, as he was* obliged 
either to unload it or remain until the melting of the snow would 
allow his proceeding. I wished him a pleasant journey, and re- 
sumed mine. 

The road to Ishim was in a bad state, the country very dreary. 



390 NEIGHBOURHOOD 

yet here is some fine wood to be seen. It was now Lent and 1 
could get little to eat but salt fish. This was a circumstance I 
had not calculated on, but there was no remedy nearer than 
Tobolsk. I supped at a regular eating-house, where money is 
demanded, being, I think, the third instance of such an occurrence 
in Siberia. The landlady had that day given her daughter in 
marriage to a young farmer, and had also benefited her son by 
giving him a wife at the same time. It was ten o'cfock when I 
arrived, and though the custom of Siberia is to turn out of the 
best room and make place for a visitor, yet I was unwilling to 
allow of this, and supped in the kitchen, which was decidedly the 
best part of the house; for the principal room where the new 
married couples, their father and mother, and three younger 
children, in all nine people, slept, was, from the warmth and 
horrid smell, scarcely possible to be borne. I asked the old lady 
how she could think of celebrating nuptials at such a period of 
the year, it being Lent; her answer, I do not recollect. 

There is some tolerable park scenery north of Ishim, which in 
my idea was much improved by the numerous wind-mills at work. 
They are the first I have seen in Siberia, and extend along the 
road from Omsk to Tobolsk. The peasants are here very industri- 
ous and economical, but the lands are sterile and consequently pro- 
duce but little bread, which is sold at ten pence the forty pounds, 
while meat, of which there is a great abundance, from the excel- 
lence of the pastures, is only thirty pence the forty pounds. The 
people are, however, so really Russian, that they cannot do with- 
out bread, cost what it will. Many of them are, in consequence, 
removing- to the new government of Yenisseisk. I passed through 
several Tartar villages, willingly partaking of their homely fare, 
though more for the comfort of a blazing fire which is always 
burning on their hearths. I treated the wives with tea, who, how- 
ever, respect the presence, not only of their husbands, but of any 



OP TOBOLSK. 391 

other male, too much, to partake of it without their previous con- 
sent. These Tartars are a most obliging and hospitable race, who 
cheerfully obey the commands of the government, and hardly ever 
go beyond the village which borders on their own. They are be- 
come excellent agriculturists, and the women employ themselves 
in weaving a strong sort of carpeting, which they convert to 
counterpanes, blankets, and bed carpets. Their dwellings are 
clean and neat, not unlike a common guard-room; they have no 
chairs or stools, and live principally upon horse flesh, and are all 
Mohamedansof the Kazan tribe. Upon reaching the environs of 
Tobolsk, what with hard work and worse roads, we lost a horse, 
which by law I was obliged to pay for, as it was the shaft horse; 
the sum was twenty five roubles, or one guinea. As I neared 
the city I observed my Cossack constantly drunk, and it turned 
out that he had sold all my copper cooking utensils, the loss of 
which I had not discovered in time, as we could get nothing upon 
the road to cook. Two more gangs of convicts were passed be- 
fore I entered Tobolsk, which was late in the evening, when I 
was instantly provided with as good quarters as I could desire. 
The cold was so intense that the Cossack who had fallen asleep 
from liquor was severely frost-bitten. 

Tobolsk has undergone little or no change since I left it, unless 
it be in its governor, and a similar change has taken place within 
one year, in every government and province, except Okotsk. I 
passed three pleasant days with my friend Mr. Hedenstrom, the 
same who travelled across the Icy Sea. I also renewed acquaint- 
ances with old friends, and except that the society is less pleasing 
and more reserved, I observe^ little' difference. The present 
governor and governor-general are unmarried men, consequently 
have little inducement to have females at their house. A certain 
air of pride and severity also prevents so good an understanding 



392 EKATIIERINEBOURG. 

as ought to subsist, and which, under the auspices of the late 
governor did subsist, in this city. 

Tobolsk is a more regular and compact built city than Irkutsk; 
it contains one thousand eight hundred and seventy houses, eight 
thousand males, and ten thousand females, besides the military 
and Cossacks, and is consequently larger than Irkutsk. It boast- 
ed also the presence of a very young and pretty English woman, 
in the person of a Miss Norman, who is going to educate the 
children of the governor of Krasnoyarsk; her accomplishments and 
amiableness duly fit her for the task, but her beauty will much 
expose her where she is going; so that she must shortly either 
marry well, or return to her family. 

I quitted the city of Tobolsk escorted by a dozen friends, who 
with bottles of champaigne accompanied me a few miles, when I 
parted with them, and following the great road, reached Tumen 
the next day, one hundred and seventy miles. It is a flourishing 
and well built town on the Toura, and carries on considerable 
trade by water. I quitted it for the last station in the government 
of Tobolsk, and with a grateful heart bade adieu to Siberia, which 
commences at Tumen; Ekatherinebourg is dependent upon the 
government of Perrae, although actually in Siberia, if the Ural 
Mountains divide Europe from Asia. 

The road thence was crowded with vehicles of all descriptions, 
and there was an air of cheerfulness on the countenances of the 
peasants, which I had not seen for some time; they were busy in 
getting in hay and straw. The villages are now better peopled, 
and occur at every three and four miles: indeed every thing tells 
me I am leaving the wide sp'read and desolate regions of northern 
Tartary, for the populous, civilized, and industrious ones of north- 
ern Europe. Yet I did not feel elated at leaving a place where I 
had been happier than in any other part of the world. Travelling 
all night I reached Kamishloff, a considerable town containing four 



EKATHEUINEBOURG. 393 

hundred houses, and fifteen hundred people. Many new brick 
buildings, and much improvement has taken place, in consequence 
of 'he active exertions of the town major, who had formerly treated 
me kindly. To Ekatherinebourg are eighty miles, the last twenty 
of which are barely passable, from the dreadful slate of the roads. 
Never was I more truly thankful that I was able to exercise my 
pedestrian powers, than on the present occasion, but what to do 
with my wife was a difficult and serious question. She was how- 
ever compelled to walk to avoid greater suffering. The roads are 
full of cross ruts four and five feet deep, and the fall of the vehicle 
in them was such, as made it impossible to remain in it; and from 
the concussions I received, I felt seriously alarmed, not only at my 
own state but for that of my better half. It is the approaching 
fair of Irbit that renders the road so bad, owing to the many thou- 
sands of heavy laden vehicles passing to and fro, and which, oc- 
casionally hailing, sink into the snow, and thus make the road full 
of ruts. By dint of labour and patience, we reached fourteen miles 
in twelve hours, halting at the hospitable abode of Mr. Major, 
which we reached at midnight. A good supper and hearty wel- 
come were in attendance, and I then got what I more wanted, a 
sound sleep. 

I staid two days with this gentleman, who is an Englishman, 
brought up in the Birmingham trade, and who, had he possessed 
the least economy, must have saved a large fortune, as the nume- 
rous good employments he has held under the crown, as well as 
under the most wealthy individuals, sufficiently prove. He has 
an excellent heart, with a speculative and inventive genius. At 
present he is engaged in the direction of the salt works of the 
Countess Strogonoff. New steam-engines are to be erected by 
him, and he is to receive thirty thousand roubles per annum, be- 
sides a per centage upon the saving effected by the adoption of 
steam; he is also employed in completing a machine which he has 
3D 



394 NEIGHBOURHOOD OF 

invented for the more easy and belter washing of the gold sands 5 
and which his estate is said to abound with. He showed me, how- 
ever, as a sample, all the gold he had collected, and which is cer- 
tainly not worth seven shillings. His estate is sandy, yet pro- 
duces some extremely fine pastures and large woods; it is of seve- 
ral square miles, and was given him in perpetuiiy by the emperor. 
Mr. Major has also received from the same monarch, diamond rings, 
orders, crosses, and pensions too numerous to mention. The em- 
ployment of steam in the working of the mines near Ekatherine- 
bourg, is owing to the ingenuity of Mr. Major, who has also esta- 
blished on his own premises a manufactory of knives, forks, scissars, 
and cutlery of all descriptions. Should he succeed in getting a 
Siberian market, and should he be able to produce articles of worth, 
which, however, I much question, he will no doubt realise a large 
fortune in his old age. I have brought a four-bladed penknife to 
England, which is sold at nine-pence, or seven shillings and six- 
pence 'he dozen. It lasted well to mend one pen, and since then 
must be ground or set, to enable it to cut a second. I might have 
said to Mr. Major and others — 

So many irons in the fire you hold, 

That none of them methinks will turn to gold. 

I left his amiable and hospitable family, and proceeded on to 
the city of Ekatherinebourg, which I reached in the morning. I 
waited upon the new chief, who has been here two years: he is 
well spoken of, as having the good of she service much at heart, 
although his manners are eccentric, and he is no friend to society. 
He was several times in England, and is, no doubt, a man of ta- 
lents. He has increased ihe quantity of gold produced from the 
washing of sand, from six hundred to two thousand pounds wiight, 
which is equal to an increase of the revenue of Ekatberint-bourg 
of near one million and a half of roubles. There have latelv been 



EKATHERINEBOURG. 395 

some valuable gold mines discovered on the eastern and western 
ranges of the Ural mountains; the richest specimens are found on 
the east, and those in the lands of a Mr. Yakovleff, are the best: 
and that gentleman, whose liberal and magnificent establishments 
I have before noticed, has entered into a contract to supply the 
mint with two thousand pounds weight of gold per annum, at a cer- 
tain price, for a certain number of years. This is indeed a serious 
undertaking, but I doubt not it will be made good. Government 
are also about to commence working some newly discovered gold 
mines; and, it is said, a fresh assistance of six thousand workmen 
is to be sent from the college of mines at St. Petersburg, indeed, 
such are the inexhaustible riches of their mountains, that hundreds 
of thousands of people could be employed, and yet centuries would 
elapse ere they procured any great proportion of the bidden trea- 
sures, which are daily becoming more apparent, and which may 
ultimately vie with the mines of Sou'h America in the precious 
metals, and surpass them in the variety and beauty of their mine- 
ralogical productions. 

Ekatherinebourg has considerably improved, but society has 
much fallen off, nothing but the low plodding Germans being left. 
It is, however, a flourishing and improving place, and will doubt- 
less, ere long, be a most important one. I again visited the esta- 
blishment of Mr. Yakovleff, and found the buildings increased by 
a handsome church, a large and well regulated hospital, besides a 
school where the director's children, as well as those of all the 
peasants, are brought up. Priests, doctors and schoolmasters, are 
severally provided for at the expense of the owner, and I have ne- 
ver seen a place, where philanthropy and good sense were more 
predominant, and where more general satisfaction beamed on the 
countenances of people termed slaves, than among the peasants of 
Mr. Yakovleff. Who will, after this, affirm that Siberia is only 
the abode of vice, misery, and ignorance? 



396 URAL MOUNTAINS. 

I quitted Ekatherinebourg at midnight, and reached early in the 
morning Billimbay Zavod, near forty miles: the country was hilly, 
At break of day I was on the highest peak of the Ural mountain 
pass, and could not help stopping to take a last view of Asia, the 
forced residence of many dear and valued friends, as also the abode 
of others whom I much esteem. Though it is, generally speaking, 
the land of the exile, it is rather the land of the unfortunate than 
of the criminal. It is the want of education, which begetting a 
looseness of morals, plunges these unfortunates into error. The 
thinness of population in Siberia, is a ready reason to account for 
the facility with which a person is exiled. Of real criminals there 
are not so many as is imagined, as by the report of Nertchinsk it 
appears, that but two thousand five hundred criminals are employ- 
ed in the mines. It is not every man who is sent to Botany Bay 
that ought to be termed a criminal; nor is every one who is exiled 
to Siberia. It may be safely said that all the most hardened cri- 
minals who are banished for life, are at Nertchinsk and Okotsk; 
at least there are very few exceptions, and I believe their whole 
number does not exceed three thousand, while the number of exiles 
sent for a limited period, annually amount to at least one-half that 
number. As to the education and moral habits of the natives of 
Siberia, they are certainly equal, if not superior in these respects, 
to that of the European Russians. They have not the same in- 
citement, nor the same means of committing crimes. The whole 
population does not exceed two millions and a half, about one-half 
of which are aborigines, scattered over a tract of country which 
gives to each person three square miles. Provisions and clothing 
are cheap, taxes are not known, the climate is healthy — and vvhat 
can man more desire? I looked again to the East, and bade adieu, 
thankful for the many marks of esteem and kindness I had receiv- 
ed from the hands of its hospitable people. 

Descending the western branch of the Ural Mountains, I soon 



KUNGOUK. 397 

to unci myself again in Europe: the land of malt, the fire-side home, 
again had charms for the traveller. The sensations I experienced 
upon quitting ihe most favoured quarter of the globe, were nothing 
when compared to the present. Then I thought I was going only 
to the abode of misery, vice, and cruelty, while now 1 knew I had 
come from that of humanity, hospitality, and kindness. I looked 
back to the hills, which are, as it were, the barrier between vir- 
tue and vice, but felt, in spite of it, a desire to return, and end my 
days. And so strong is still that desire, that I should not hesitate 
to bid adieu to politics, war, and other refined pursuits, to enjoy in 
Siberia those comforts which may be had without fear of foreign 
or domestic disturbance. 

In the evening of my entry into Europe, I reached the village 
of Bissertskaya Krepost, situate on the Bissert stream. The road 
was bad, and over a hilly country, nor was my dissatisfaction at 
all allayed by the conduct of the Permians. Inhospitality, incivi- 
lity, and general distrust every where prevailed, and influenced 
the conduct of the inhabitants; even the last copeck is insisted 
upon in payment for the horses, before they are permitted to com- 
mence the journey, a circumstance which in many cases occasions 
much inconvenience and loss of time. In Siberia the traveller 
may pay forward or backward three or four stations, and every 
sort of accommodation is given. 

Immediately upon leaving Siberia, I had a most severe attack 
of rheumatism, or pains arising from the joltings I had formerly 
got; probably, also, the change of air did not agree with me, until 
I had again become accustomed to it. I however persevered in 
the journey, and passing a gang of Gypsies with their usual ec- 
centricities, and a larger gang of convicts, I reached Kungour. 
The villages upon the road, are numerous and well peopled. 
Many iron and salt-works, as well as distilleries, are to be seen 
in all directions, and an active and industrious spirit every where 



398 PERME. 

prevails. Noble timber too is in great abundance, enlivening 
the prospect, among which (he lofty oak is the most conspicuous. 
At Kungour a sort of hotel and billiard rooms have been estab- 
lished in my absence, and appeared to be doing well 

The picturesque situation of Kungour cannot fail to please, 
commanding a fine view of the surrounding well cultivated and 
better wooded and watered country. There are one thousand one 
hundred dwellings, and four thousand two hundred inhabitants in 
it; half a dozen churches, and some stone edifices give it a res- 
pectable appearance, yet as to thrift it is but a sorry place, al- 
though the honey it produces is considered as very superior and 
abundant. Formerly it was the capital of a province, and pre- 
vious to that period, a favourite place of the Tartars The caves 
where they resided, are still shewn in the light of useful curiosi- 
ties, inasmuch as they are converted into ice-cellars, and store- 
houses. 

From Kungour to Perme are sixty miles, of at present most ex- 
ecrable, but during the summer of the most beautiful, road. I 
reached the city at midnight, exceedingly worn out. The police 
mistaking me for a horse, gave me a stable for lodging; I was, 
however, satisfied with any place in my weak staie, and with 
violent rheumatic pains. Perme, with two thousand houses and 
nine thousand inhabitants, is going on in an improving and hand- 
some style of building. It is in short a flourishing place, and will 
in time become of great importance, and one of the most valuable 
governments in European Russia. It stands on the right bank of 
the Kama, in a fertile and well wooded country. 

I procured from the governor a fresh passport, and was almost 
obliged to listen to his absurd and ill-rimed questions regarding 
my wife — questions which evidently shewed his utter ignorance 
of his own country. Perhaps he suspected my wife w^s a Tartar, 
a Mongole, or some other sort of Pagan. He abked me of what 



PERME. 399 

eountry she was. I said, "of Kamchatka." "Is she a Kamt- 
chatdale?" "As much as you are a Russian." "Who and what 
is her father?" " He serves." "What is his rank?" "A priest." 
(A laugh, for he really does s*-rve the church.) u But is he a 
Russian, or Karatchatdale priest?" "As it may please the natives 
of either country to attend the service." "Does he speak the 
Russian language?" "He does." " But is he a Russian or 
Kamlchatdale?" "Both." "How can that he?" " In the same 
manner, that you are a Livonian and a Russian." " Is he a white 
manV > "In appearance, but cannot answer for any few shades, 
by which he may be removed from a Tartar, or other tribe." 
"In what language does he read the divine service?" " In the 
Russian." " Oh, then he is of the Greek Church, and a Russian?" 
"Of course." "And your wife, where was she brought up?" 
"In Kamtchatka." "What has been her education?" "To 
respect every body." "Well, I give you joy," said this governor, 
" but I confess. I would rather you go to Kamtchatka for a wife 
tha,n I." I told his excellency, that " I thought it better to have 
such a wife as mine, who would go where I chose, and would con- 
sider it her greatest delight to do so, than such as his, who would 
neither accompany nor remain wi'h him although in her own coun- 
try." I need not say the conversation was abruptly discontinued, 
not a word being said, but merely adieu. This is the only instance, 
except one, that ever occurred to me in the Russian Empire, of 
being personally insulted, and to the credit of Russia 1 should add, 
this governor is a German; the other was at Kazan, and regarded 
only the conduct of some young ladies, who, when at a ball, asked 
my wife who was her father, how many peasants he had, &c. I told 
them I should begin also to interrogate ihem respecting their fathers 
whether they gambled? and (he consequence was, no more of those 
childish questions were again put by 'he young ladies; who were 
probably induced by a spirit of curiosity and vanity so congenial 



400 MALMISH. 

to young minds, to make such inquiries; while in the other in- 
stance, namely, that of the governor, I could only impute it to a 
want of delicacy, arising from ignorance. 

I had little inducement to remain longer in Perme than was ne- 
cessary, but I could not, from my weak stale, depart before the 
noon of the second day of my arrival, during the whole of which 
time my wife and I continued the inhabitants of the stable — but 
such a fact did not in the least discompose me. I felt thankful 
I was so well off, and probably enjoyed it from other motives. 
Having departed I soon reached the neat little town Okhansk, on 
the left bank of the Kama, upon which my route had lain. It has 
much the appearance of a fishing place, from the number of ves- 
sels of from fifty or sixty tons to as many pounds, with which it is 
crowded. Snow fell very heavily, and my postilion, whom I had 
procured at Tobolsk, suffered much from the melting of the snow, 
followed by a hard frost. I proposed an extra sledge for the night 
to relieve him, but such is etiquette, that the postmaster would 
not give extra horses either for love or money — so much for the 
government of Perme, and which I here quitted for that of Kazan, 
over desperate roads, with a more desperate increase of rheumatic 
pains. Yet I was content to persist in moving forward in conse- 
quence of the attention of all classes of people to my wants. In 
the early part of the evening I reached the village of Kilmesselti, 
in the government of Viatka, having come through a well peopled 
and well cultivated country. On the noon of the following day, I 
reached Malmish, one hundred miles. The road was better, the vil- 
lages more numerous, and all having a principal residence belong- 
ing to the lords of the lands, which I considered the first good visi- 
ble sign of my having reached European Russia. 

Malmish is a small neat town, with a growling postmaster, in 
spite of whom, ill as I was, I continued my route, and reached 
Kazan the next morning at seven o'clock. The last two stages I 



KAZAN. 401 

was obliged to go upon an open sledge, as I could no longer en- 
dure the falls of my own, and so ill was I that I considered the 
palpitation of my heart as a short prelude to dissolution. It was 
fortunate my journey by the winter road was to end at Kazan. I 
could not have gone farther, and should therefore have been com- 
pelled to have staid two or three months in a village, unprovided 
with necessaries, much less with comforts. It was not, however, 
upon my immediate arrival at Kazan, that my difficulties were to 
cease, I was kept at the police office for two hours, awaiting the 
arrivaf of the police-master. As he had not at that time arrived, 
the officer in waiting was kind enough to order me to comfortable 
quarters, which, when I had reached, I was not allowed to enter, 
as the police-master sent a Cossack to say he had better quarters 
for me in a more convenient part of the city. I returned to the 
police-officer, and was then directed to quarters already occupied. 
I again returned to the police office, and was ultimately, as in 
Perme, sent to a stable. Even that was a happy situation for me 
in the state in which I was. I managed to call upon a governor, 
whose functions had ceased, and represented the case, which he, 
from prudence upon his own account, could not interfere in; al- 
though he is a worthy man, and had shewed me many marks of 
attention upon my outward journey. 

I dined with this governor the next day, and at his house met 
Mr. Yeremeoff, whose wife was the governor's niece, and had be- 
come both wife and mother in my absence. I drank tea with her, 
when Mrs. Cochrane was taken so alarmingly ill, that she could 
not be removed. Mr. and Mrs. Yeremeoff kindly and good-heart- 
edly insisted upon our removal from the stable to their elegant 
mansion, the resort of the first society of Kazan, the owner being 
a pattern of liberality and honest sentiments, his lady, a woman as 
accomplished and elegant in her manners, as she is virtuous and hu- 
mane in her heart. For twenty-three days was my wife confined to 
3E 



402 KAZAN. 

her room, and for more than that time I suffered a species of tor- 
turing pain in the heart and left side, which only left me from 
lapse of time. The names of Paul and Liuboff YeremeofF will 
ever be engraven on both our hearts. 

It was the inattention and disrespect of the police of Kazan, now 
dependent only upon their own whims, which procured me such a 
comfortable residence. The police, at the best periods, was very 
bad, owing to the difference which generally subsists between the 
lords, or land-holders, and the governors. Thus, Kazan is con- 
sidered as one of the most difficult places to manage in the Rus- 
sian empire; from what cause I know not. The nobles still retain 
their ancient Asiatic pride, in spite of their poverty, nor did they 
appear to me to have profited so much in general knowledge as 
might have been expected, considering there is a university; I 
was certainly quartered in the house of the most liberal and en- 
lightened of them, descended from an ancient Russian family, who 
had previously served in the army, had travelled, and understood 
several languages. 

Thus arrived at Kazan, it was necessary to remain until the 
Volga should become passable. The ice had broken up, and was 
rushing with a tremendous roar towards the Caspian Sea. All 
around Kazan was, as it may be termed, a universal deluge; the 
southern hills and the city alone, appearing above water. Boats 
might be seen passing to and from different parts of the town, while 
with others, no communication whatever could be held from the 
depth of the mud in the streets, or the velocity of the two canals 
which run through it. The country round is picturesque at this 
season of the year, May 1st (13th.) The southern hills in parti- 
cular have a fine effect. The Volga has now assumed a most gi- 
gantic size, and appeared to threaten a general inundation. 

The insalubrity of Kazan has been already noticed: it has been, 
not inaptly compared to an Italian city, healthy only in wet and dirty, 



KAZAN. 403 

and unhealthy in hot and dry weather; but Kazan is also unhealthy 
during the severe frosts. My time was variously occupied, as I en- 
joyed the friendship and society of the best classes of the inhabit' 
ants, and never felt more at home. I was under many obligations 
to the vice-governor, but received not the smallest marks of con- 
descension from the governor-general, or rather senator, whose 
name is Simionoff, and who has since been employed in surveying 
and examining the newly discovered gold mines at Ekatherine- 
bourg, in company with my learned and highly valued friend Dr. 
and Professor Fuchs. The latter is, I believe, about to publish a 
history of Kazan, a task for which his long residence and know- 
ledge of the Tartar language especially qualify him. Many pieces 
of his have already found their way into the literary gazettes of 
St. Petersburg; among others, the description of the four annual 
feasts of the Tartars of Kazan, and a delineation of their manners, 
customs, origin, &c. The Professor has also given to the world 
many useful hints upon the coins and medals of Kazan, of which 
he himself possesses a valuable and rare collection, besides some 
Tartar manuscripts. His situation, as one of the Professors of the 
University, gives him a great advantage, and it is to be hoped he 
will do much to solve the doubtful and intricate history of the 
towns of Kazan and Bulgari. 

The latter city, about eighty miles from Kazan, stands in a fer- 
tile and rich plain, which still boasts some interesting monuments 
of antiquity. The wall which encompassed the city is still trace- 
able, and is four miles in circumference. At present a small vil- 
lage and church occupy a part of the site, the gardens being ac- 
tually spread over a bed of human bones. 1 have seen some able 
drawings of the remaining monuments in the collection of Profes- 
sor Fuchs, 

The needful preparations being made for my departure, such as 
purchasing a new kibitka, procuring passports, laying in a stock of 



404 NISHNEY NOVGOROD. 

provisions, and bidding adieu to all friends, I set out, and crossing 
a ferry of six miles over the Volga, against a NW wind, reached 
the first station safe. My baggage and horses did not arrive until 
near midnight, when we crossed two more ferries, the face of the 
country being scarcely visible from the flood. Next evening I 
reached Tchebokssari, on the right bank of the Volga, having come 
over a fertile and beautiful country, tolerably well peopled, who 
were as civil and obliging as could be desired. Many extensive 
tanneries and tallow refining places are in the neighbourhood. 
Tchebokssari has eight hundred dwellings, and three thousand in- 
habitants, besides two conspicuous monasteries; its situation is ro- 
mantic, and it has a considerable trade; it is, notwithstanding, a 
dirty place. 

From Tchebokssari the road was very bad. I crossed a diffi- 
cult ferry on the Soura, from the town of Vassil, and thence on to 
Nishney Novgorod, where I arrived at sun-set. The theatre had 
just closed, and I consequently met ihe most of the wealthy people 
returning from it. The view of Nishney Novgorod from a distance 
of ten miles has a fine effect, the country is well cultivated, and I 
enjoyed the beauty and richness of the landscapes. I procured 
lodgings at a regular hotel, and waited upon the governor, but was 
again so unfortunate as not to meet his amiable English wife. 
The buildings for the new fair have increased rapidly, and have 
a handsome appearance; still, however, I feel far from convinced 
of their durability or safety from the encroachments of the river 
Volga. Many extra precautions, at a considerable expense, have 
been taken since I was last here, and the direction of the works have 
been taken from General Betancourt, and given to the Prince of 
Wirtembourg. Whether his Highness is a better engineer, 1 know 
not, but he does not bear that character, perhaps unjustly. The 
bank on which the fair stands has, in many places, been raised 
twelve, and in some eighteen feet. The church, theatre, hoteI ? 



VLADIMIR. 405 

government-house, guard-house, chancery, and public offices, are 
handsome structures. 

There are two thousand seven hundred shops, which, when let, 
will produce seven hundred thousand roubles per annum, while 
the expenses have already amounted to seven millions of roubles, 
and it is supposed will require at least two more. The erection 
has most materially altered and benefited the appearance of Nov- 
gorod, which now contains thirty thousand inhabitants; it is 
paved, kept clean, and well policed, at least the upper town is. 
My old Spanish acquaintances were still at work, and although a 
little discontented at the fall of their patron General Betahcourt, 
were still doing well, and grateful to Russia. 

From Nishney Novgorod, I continued my route and reached the 
large and handsome village of Bogorodskoye, belonging to the 
Count SheremetiefT. There are in the neighbourhood many vil- 
lages belonging to the same young nobleman, as also several resi- 
dences ready for his reception. This young Count is not only the 
richest subject in Russia, but is comparatively the richest in the 
world. He has one hundred and sixty thousand peasants, and a 
revenue of not far short of three millions of roubles. The village 
of Bogorodskoye contains niue hundred dwellings and five thou- 
sand inhabitants, the situation is fine and the country well wooded; 
and such is the face of the country all the way to Vladimir where 
I arrived at noon. I had passed the large village of Pavlovo con- 
taining three thousand houses and fifteen thousand inhabitants, also 
belonging to the Sherernetieff family. Many iron manufactories 
are to be seen at work, and the country is highly cultivated. 
Numerous populous villages, all having a handsome villa, in a 
dilapidated state, attract the attention of the traveller. Mourom, 
Monacovo and other small towns are in the same condition, and 
the only difference T observe is the increased impudence of t^e 



406 PROM VLADIMIR 

post-masters: in some places I was exceedingly provoked with 
their extortion. 

This conduct of post-masters is one of the greatest nuisances in 
the Russian Empire, and is in some measure imputable to the go- 
vernment. A traveller arrives at a post-house, procures horses, 
and is about to depart, when an officer also comes upon service 
and takes the horses from the traveller. It often happens also that 
a traveller arrives with a passport and order for horses, and al- 
though there be plenty, the post-master will not give them under 
fifty per cent, increase — this is the hard case in which civilians, 
and people not in the service of the Emperor, are placed. Go- 
vernment have punished several offenders, but the law and custom 
of procuring horses is bad. Why should not individuals be allow- 
ed to hire their own horses, without being subject to the compul- 
sion of engaging them from the post-contractor? Speaking of the 
post, it may not be unamusing or useless to inform my readers, 
that to send a letter from one part of the Russian Empire to the 
other, the postage must be paid in advance — a circumstance which 
appears to me to keep back education more than any thing else. 
There is a great difference, I presume, in paying to send a letter 
of the contents of which a person is acquainted, and paying for the 
receipt of a dozen letters coming from a parent or friend. It is 
said that many false letters w'ould be sent by the ignorant and mis- 
chievous; this indeed might at first be the case: but let them be 
sent, they will thus become educated, and in the end will know 
better how to employ their time. 

The road from Vladimir to Moscow is a bad one, being a con- 
tinual causeway. It rained hard, and my cart being leaky, the 
journey was exceedingly unpleasant. The approach to Moscow 
not a little exposed the absurdity of the belief that the approach 
towards civilization is the approach to happiness. The people 
more surly, the articles of life dearer, no hospitality, voracious ap- 



TO MOSCOW. 401 

petite for gain, innumerable beggars, roads crowded with vehicles 
of all descriptions — such are the sure signs of approaching a capi- 
tal, and such was the case as I entered Moscow's crowded streets, 
and put up at the London Hotel; which I recommend no one else 
to do — from its expensiveness, and the inattention and want of 
cleanliness of its owners My stay in Moscow occupied me three 
weeks, there being no spare places in the Diligence which has 
been lately established upon a liberal and successful plan. The 
custom or patronage it has received from the public is unbounded, 
and the outfit is already repaid to the speculator. 

I was most hospitably entertained by my old friends, and by se- 
veral of the nobility. I attended the opera and theatre, and paid 
visits to the numerous magnificent villas in the neighbourhood of 
Moscow, which are well worth the attention of the traveller, and 
forcibly reminded me of old England. I also visited the new 
walks and gardens of the Kremlin, and consider them as very hand- 
some. The experimental farm which has lately been established 
by the Moscow Imperial Society of Rural Economy, and which is 
much patronized by the nobility of Russia, has met with success; 
its present President, governor-general of Moscow, Prince Wladi- 
mir Golitzin, is a man of great merit and spirit, and it is now un- 
der the management of a Mr. Rogers. I also visited the public 
prisons which are conducted according to a plan suggested by the 
lamented Howard. • They are far superior to those of the new ca- 
pital: fifteen hundred prisoners are confined in them, seventy-five 
of whom are criminals. 

The governor-general's late noble residence was destroyed by 
fire the last winter, and has not yet been repaired. The anecdote 
respecting it will be long remembered in Moscow. It was at a 
grand ball, and when the tables were already laid for supper, that 
the fire was discovered. It had long been seen by the watchman, 
but he could not think of giving the alarm or disturbing the quad- 



408 MOSCOW. 

rilles and waltzes. When it was known, the company had barely 
time to escape before the drawing-room floor fell in, carrying with 
it the supper tables already covered with the usual delicacies and 
ornaments. 

Among the most conspicuous personages in Moscow was Lieu- 
tenant Holman of the royal navy, a poor blind night of Windsor. 
I passed several pleasant days with him, and considered the ac- 
complishment of my design of penetrating through Siberia as no- 
thing when compared to his determination of proceeding also. He 
related to me many anecdotes of his travels and second sight. 
What object he can have, without a servant, in going to Siberia I 
know not. He, indeed, may go there as well as any where else, 
for he will see just as much; but there is so little to be seen by 
those who have even the use of their eyes, that I cannot divine 
what interest he can have, to attempt it without even a knowledge 
of the Russian language. If his journal, which may be made in- 
teresting, be composed of hearsay, as it certainly cannot be of ocu- 
lar evidence, he will indeed have enough to do to record the infor- 
mation he may receive, and which can only proceed from exiJes 
or criminals, and consequently not implicitly to be relied upon, 
particularly situated as he is, possessing hardly sufficient knowledge 
of the Russian language to duly appreciate the value of such hear- 
say information. His manuscript must become voluminous, and, 
of course, too bulky to be sent by private hands.; it can only, there- 
fore, be forwarded by the post, where, without doubt, it will be 
subject to the examination of those whose duty it is to inspect do- 
cuments of such a nature as this is likely to be, and will be treat- 
ed according to its merit. 

In every country, even in England, we find that foreigners should 
be careful of what they do, as well as of what they write, if they 
wish their packets a safe arrival to their destination; they should 
take care that nothing offensive to the government be inserted; for, 



FROM MOSCOW TO KL1NN. 409 

frequently, as in England, truth is a libel, and the greater the truth, 
the greater the libel. Whether Mr. Holman has already learnt 
this useful, and, to travellers, necessary lesson, time will develop; 
if so, he may go where he will, and be received by every person in 
the empire with open arms and warm hearts. I gave him letters 
of introduction to all my friends in Siberia, and shall feel most 
happy in his return. Who will then say that Siberia is a wild, in- 
hospitable or impassable country, when even the blind can traverse 
it with safety? 

Having seen Mr. Holman safe upon his road, under charge of 
the Cossack who had accompanied me from Tobolsk, I took my 
place in the Diligence for St. Petersburg, in company with a Mrs. 
Bradford, widow of an English purser of the navy, and a Lieute- 
nant Read, of the Royal Marines, besides a young man under my 
charge from Kazan, in ill health. I regretted quitting the hospi- 
table and friendly society of Moscow, which, in my opinion, is su- 
perior and more refined than that of its sister capital, and which ? 
probably, arises from the circumstance of its being exclusively in- 
habited by Russians, many of whom, after having filled with credit 
and honour the first offices of the Empire, retire to Moscow, there 
to pass the remainder of their days in peace, tranquillity, and good 
society, as that capital is much more free, independent, and un- 
shackled by the police than St. Petersburg. In Moscow observa- 
tions are openly made on any unpopular act of the government; its 
senators have a very superior voice, and great attention is paid by 
the ministers to their representations. The nobility of Russia pos- 
sess very extensive privileges and power, and if the government 
must be called a military despotism, it is a well regulated one, and 
happy are the people, when it is governed, as now, by a prince as 
unambitious as he is humane. It is true, that its immense stand- 
ing army, near a million of men, in the hands of a prince differ- 
ently inclined, would be a terrible engine of destruction, as well 
3F 



410 NOVGOROD. 

of the lives as of the liberies of Europe. The power of Russia is 
still more formidable when it is considered that the army is com- 
posed of hardy, bold, enterprising, and needy men: who, go where 
they will, must be better off either as to climate or productions, 
tb^n at home. The present military expenses amount, ] under- 
aod, to two hundred and fifty millions of roubles per annum, a 
sum almost equal to two-thirds of the revenue, for an army far 
surpassing what may be deemed truly necessary in times of pro- 
found peace; the expense of which will be considerably diminished, 
if what I have heard be correct, viz ihat three hundred thousand 
men are to be reduced. 

Leaving this matter for more able politicians, I resume my 
journey in <he Diligence, in which I reached the handsome town 
of Kiinn, and remembered the portal in the church where I had 
slfpt upon my outward journey. We reached Tver the next day, 
averaging about five miles and a half per hour. Having purchased 
of the people at Torjock, some few articles of leather, such as 
embroidered boo.-s, shoes, and gloves, we continued an uninterest- 
ing route, staid ai Vishney Vololcbok to dine, and then entered 
upon the high road, which is M'Adamizing, and will, when finish- 
ed, be a most beautiful one, which three more years will be re- 
quired to complete. Passing through Valdai, I again enjoyed the 
beauty of the scenery, the lake, and the insulated Iverskoy mon- 
astery. I reached Novgorod, crossed the .river, and passed close 
to the new military colonies, of which the city of Novgorod, as I 
was told, is to become the head-quarters. The experiment of this 
new system, will be only extended to the peasants belonging to the 1 
crown, and the chief objects expecttd to arise from it are, first, 
the cheap maintenance of a large militia force in times of peace; 
second, the replenishing of the regular armies, when war shall de- 
mand it, by a people already accustomed to military manoeuvres 
and the use of arms; and lastly, the doing away of the old feudal 



ST. PETERSBURG. 41 i 

custom, which hitherto has been pursued, of recruiting the armies 
from the peasants of the nobility. The two last considerations 
will enable the Emperor of Russia to equip a better and a more 
numerous army, and in less time than could formerly have been 
done; yet, notwithstanding these favourable considerations, espe- 
cially to the possessors of peasantry, and the advantages, in a pecu- 
niary point of view, to the empire, much apprehension has been 
expressed of the dangers likely to arise from putting arms into the 
hands of the common people, and thus giving them an opportunity 
of forming intimate connexion with soldiers. The compulsory 
manner in which these peasants were forced into this new militia 
service, met, at first, with considerable objection, and, in some 
cases, wi(h resistance; but I believe the disobedience did not con- 
tinue long, at least I have heard nothing to the contrary. The un- 
popularity of the measure, perhaps, is not singular, and arises from 
the fact that most new systems begin by being equally unfortunate: 
Count Araktcheef, according to Dr. Lyall, is the author of it. His 
Excellency is certainly one of the most confidential advisers of 
his Imperial Majesty, as well as powerful noblemen of the pre- 
sent day; but whether in this case his Excellency's advice will 
ultimately prove beneficial or injurious to the Russian Empire, 
time only can develop; certain however is it, that still rhe measure 
is badly received. Novgorod has, no doubt, benefited by the prox- 
imity of the colonists, as also have the numerous villages in its 
vicinity. 

We reached the environs of the capital about sun-set, and 
safely arrived at the ill-attended, dirty, and extravagant hotel of 
Mrs. Rea. I thought, however, that a few days of uncomfortable 
lodgings was no hard case to me, whatever it might be to others, 
and therefore, I would not remove. Mr. Page's is, beyond all 
question, the best, most respectable, and in the end the cheapest 
hotel in St. Petersburg, from which I had been absent exactly 



412 ST. PETERSBURG. 

three years and three weeks, and (o which I had returned in in« 
finitely belter health than when I left it. 

I was soon engaged at all sorts of dinners and entertainments, 
but was too anxious to get a passage by ship to the land of malt 
to allow my accepting them. I engaged the cabin of the Peter 
Proctor, the master of which ship had, on that day three months, 
dined with my father in Dominique, and left him in health and 
happiness: this news was a gratification I did not expect to ex- 
perience so soon. The vessel being to depart with the first fair 
wind, I had but time to pay my respects to the Count Kotchoubey , 
my friend and protector. I tendered to his Excellency my jour- 
nal, offering to leave it in Russia, should his Excellency desire It. 
The Count said, " No, take it to England, publish the truth, and 
you will do more good than fabricating or inventing things which 
do not exist. Tell the people of England how you have been 
treated in Russia, but at the same time let us know what you have 
seen." I left his Excellency, who was on a sick bed, penetrated 
with the highest sentiments for his virtues and affability, and paying 
my respects also to Sir Charles Bagot, and Sir Daniel Bailey, I 
completed my official reports at the court of St. Petersburg — with 
the exception of one to the Governor-general, Count Miloradovitch, 
respecting my passport, which was granted immediately, upon my 
own terms. It seems that a late smuggling transaction, carried on 
at Cronstadl, has involved several English merchants, as also 
'Russian officers, who are by birth English. Many people who 
got passports to depart, have gone, leaving very large debts un- 
paid; consequently, the Governor-general made a rule that any 
Englishman, about to quit the empire, should give information 
three times in the gazette, and also lodge securities for any debts. 
I represented my anxiety to depart, and that the ship would sail 
in a few days, or the first fair wind. I was provided with a pass- 



CONCLUSION. 413 

port on the spot, and thus received the last act of kindness which 
it was possible to bestow. 

Sir Charles Bagot did me the honour to mention many kind en- 
quiries on the part of his Imperial Majesty, in my absence, re- 
specting me, which do honour to his heart and human nature, and 
at the same time increase the many obligations I am under to his 
Majesty, who has my heartfelt graiitude. Such is the reward, to 
me invaluable, for all the troubles and difficulties I may have en- 
dured upon my long journey. The Emperor had frequently in 
my absence enquired into my pecuniary situation, and as often 
made a tender, through Sir C Bagot, of any assistance I stood in 
need of, which I was bound to decline in consequence of my be- 
ing every where received in such a manner, as to almost render 
money unnecessary. His Imperial Majesty also frequently ex- 
pressed a fear that I should not be able to surmount the difficul- 
ties incident to a voyage of the kind; in short, that I should not 
again reach Europe safely. 



CONCLUSION. 

I was not a little flattered, to learn from Sir Charles Bagot, 
personally, as well as by letter, that no part of my conduct had 
met with the smallest disapprobation from the Russian govern- 
ment. My object had been to avoid the rocks and shoals which 
travellers usually split upon, and while with the natives, I studied 
to accommodate myself to their manners. I uniformly ate, drank, 
and slept with them; dressed in the same way; bore a part of their 
fatigues, and participated in their recreations, and, I hope, made 
myself an acceptable, instead of a disagreeable guest. 

If I have morally erred in my wanderings, I am sorry for it; I 
am unconscious of any harm done to any one, and if, in these 



414 CONCLUSION. 

pages, I have said more than was prudent or necessary, it has 
proceeded from a desire to tell the truth ; if, in telling that truth 
(which ought not always to be told), and in drawing comparisons^ 
1 have incautiously hurt any individual, I shall deeply regret it". * 
There is, however, so little of interest in Siberia, so little to be ^ 
seen, that it is hardly possible to form an interesting work on that 
topic, unless the traveller be a botanist or naturalist, or otherwise 
versed in the mysteries of science. Siberia is, in fact, one im- 
mense wilderness, whose inhabitants are so scattered, that five and 
six hundred miles are passed by the traveller without seeing an 
individual, much less any cultivation, or any works of man at all 
worthy of description. The manners, customs and dress of most of 
the inhabitants are the same. The severity of the climate is in 
most places co equal, and in general productive of the same re- 
sults. The matter of interest is to be compressed in a small 
space, and all that I may be said to have done, may consist in the 
fact of shewing others, that man may go where he chooses, as long 
as his conduct corresponds with his movements, and that he may 
fearlessly and alone as safely trust himself in the hands of savages, 
as with his own friends. I do not say the same thing for a party 
of travellers, I adhere to my idea stated at the commencement, 
and I think I should often have not only been without food, but 
have run the chance of being starved, had I been accompanied by 
only two or three attendants more than I had. 

If this narrative of my journey shall have the least beneficial 
effect in any way, if it prove of the least service in guiding the fu- 
ture traveller, and the better preparing him for the evils incident 
to a journey of the kind, I shall be gratified, and consider my time 
as, not thrown away. Experience has taught me many things I 
knew not, and which at first view may appear frivolous; but I am 
not one of those, who insist on the necessity of using great fore- 
sight — that foresight has a tendency to beget timidity or distrust. 



CONCLUSION. 415 

In my apprehension, he is the wisest and most successful traveller, 
who goes a' once into his journey, dependent only upon the recep- 
tion which the ignorant and brutal will give him, in preference to 
that traveller who relies upon a well lined purse. I feel convinc- 
ed, that compassion is the leading characteristic of what are term- 
ed barbarians, and that man, in a state of nature, will freely give 
to the distressed that bread which he would not sell for money. 
I am confident that man is really humane, and that he gives more 
from the dictates of a good heart, than from ostentation. I have 
received food from a family who were almost in a starving state, 
and am therefore justified by grateful experience, in affirming that 
those people who are the most ignorant, and uncivilized, are the 
most hospitable and friendly to their fellows. 

Should my readers concur with me in this opinion, as deduced 
from the facts I have stated in this journal, they will not regret to 
have devoted a few hours to its perusal; and with these sentiments 
I conclude this narration. 



THE END 



MS 21^ 



